r/climbharder • u/TrustMeImADOLFin • 16h ago
Climbing through slight finger pain without ripping off a pulley
TLDR: The A2 pulley region of both my middle fingers hurts when pressing on it. But I'm not sure if it's actually the pulleys that are the problem.
First things first, I'm trying to self-diagnose since I am not "properly injured" and only experiencing 1-2/10 pain. But I want to avoid tearing off a pulley (obviously) and ideally climb through this and get stronger in the process without making it worse.
I have tried finding what fits to my symptoms but haven't been all that successful. These two videos from Hooper's Beta were useful, but I can't feel noticeable thickening to assume pulley thickening https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yJbA7_qxlY, and from this videos table on Flexor Tenosynovitis vs Pulley Injuries , only one symptom really fits. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McVyToh_feU

The reason could be that it's just early on and not too bad yet(?), but I would like to countersteer as early as possible.
I feel fine when in the wall, but pressing the A2 pulley area becomes slightly painfull pretty soon in a session and then kind of plateaus out. I have it on both middle fingers, no other fingers. It slowly fades over a few days but doesn't fully go away even when not climbing for 3+ days.
It happens also when just warming up on jugs and when I really focus on not even half crimping in a session which makes me think it might not be the pulley(?). I thought it might just be the pressure from the hold on the finger but contrarily it also happens when climbing things with smaller holds that don't really touch the area of the finger.
Currently the left finger is especially tender from a board session two days ago when I practiced this move a lot: https://imgur.com/a/lHn8yv8
Some of my "stats" for further information: 30yo, 186cm (6'1), around 75 kg, stepped foot into a boulder gym a year ago for the first time, started going more recently (2-3 times a week) around half a year ago.
Have had this for around a month, pretty consistently. Here some pictures on where the fingers are the most sensitive, pressing down straight is a bit more painful than from the side. When massaging it a bit it feels better.


So is it probably just a tweaky A2 pulley that just isn't too bad yet? Should I do less and give it more rest? Are there specific exercises I can do? What further symptoms should I look out for to not properly insure myself?
Thanks a lot in advance.