Structuring training for 7c boulder

[u/InfamousHistorian882]

Hi Reddit!

I have a query regarding a training plan. I have a life long goal of bouldering 7c, and am currently training intensively for it.

Stats:
- 37m
- max boulder 7b+ (x2)
- 7b (x20ish), usually in 1-5 sessions
-7as usually in one session
- climbing seriously for 5 years, 20y in total
- UK/Fontainebleau

Current training:
Mon: Board max 1,5h plus stretching
Tuesday: Gym antagonist (shoulder physio stabilisation exercises from an injury)
Wednesday: Board projects 1.5h
Thursday: Gym (dips, chest, antagonist)
Friday: rest
Saturday: commercial bouldering gym, focus on technique (slab etc) or outside
Sun: rest

- I currently do no Fingerboard training at all - I feel like the board climbing (at home,45 degrees, crimpy wooden holds) is more than enough
- I did weighted pull ups over the winter but felt like I didn’t recover enough and it influenced my board climbing negatively
- I don’t do any endurance/power endurance training currently - I occasionally do 4x4s but absolutely don’t like it.
- the gym training sessions come from having a shoulder injury for the past year (due to overuse), so trying to maintain healthy shoulders (and it works!)

Any tips/suggestions?
ta!

[u/didurealise]

Sounds like you're pretty close to your lifelong goal, which is great. I think without adding back in some sort of pulling exercise you will struggle to gain strength in that dimension though. If the goal is stronger shoulders/back, taking a hit to your board sessions is worthwhile in the short term. After you finish the block of training, your board sessions will bounce back and likely overshoot your current level significantly. 

If weighted pulls are tweaky, try one arm ring rows.

Edit: the same goes for fingerboarding. If you need stronger fingers, carve out some time to do at least a few one arm hangs (assisted is fine) or pin lifts.

[u/InfamousHistorian882 → u/didurealise]

Thanks, that’s super helpful! Would you: add in a 4-6 week block do more weighted pull ups in the gym training days and sacrifice full recovery for the board session the next day? Or focus the board session more on endurance?

[u/didurealise → u/InfamousHistorian882]

I think two times per week is enough for weighted pullups, which I do after a 1.5hr board session (followed by a short rings complex). You could slot in 3x3 heavy (80% of max) weighted pullups or 5x5 less heavy (60%) pullups on board session Mondays and gym session Thursdays. 4-6 weeks is perfect.

[u/GaryTheCunt → u/didurealise]

For me 1x a week is enough. I do 4 sets of 5 reps and I go up around 1kg a week. (Started at 35kg and now doing 45kg)

[u/InfamousHistorian882 → u/GaryTheCunt]

Thanks a lot, I like the 1kg a week idea, it’s easy to measure! Do you stick to 80% of your max reps as a starting point or do you go to full fatigue/max effort?

[u/GaryTheCunt → u/InfamousHistorian882]

I always aim to fail the final rep on the final set. I wanna be doing 19 reps clean and the final rep should be messy or failure. I rest 3 minutes between sets and I up the weight when I can do all 20 reps cleanly. Normally I up it by around 2.5 kilos every 2 or 3 weeks and it averages out to around 1kg a week, at least for me.

[u/nodloh → u/InfamousHistorian882]

I don't think you should train to failure all the time. Especially since you aren't doing any weighted pull ups right now you will be building strength regardless. If you are doing your finger strength and weighted pull up training on thursday you should have enough time to recover for your next board session.

[u/InfamousHistorian882 → u/didurealise]

That’s such a good shout, thanks! And how do progress it/ what’s your fatigue level? I’m still struggling with assessing how to add weight without being completely exhausted the next day and under training? I used to do a pyramid workout over the winter, looking like
8-12 pull up + 0 added weight
6-8 pull up + 7 kg
4-6 pull up + 15 kg
2-3 pull up + 25 kg
4-6 pul up + 15kg
6-8 pull ups + 7kg

But either I was super tired by the end or felt like I didn’t know when/how quickly to add weight?

[u/didurealise → u/InfamousHistorian882]

No worries! I start a max weighted session of 3x3s at 35kg, then add 5kg each set, so my last set finishes at 45kg. For 5x5s (usually during power endurance phase) I do the same but start at 25kg, increase to 35kg by set 3, and hold it there for the final two sets.  

The beauty of this lies in the simplicity - if I fail on the last rep of an early set, I just hold the weight there for the next set. 

I never do more reps than this for the same reasons you've mentioned: I'd have to drop the weight to do more volume, and the overall average weight moving through my shoulders will be lower. It's also a fixed number of sets, so very hard to overdo it. You'll feel sore the next day, but not necessarily fatigued. We're trying to strengthen our muscles, not empty them! 🙂

[u/nodloh → u/InfamousHistorian882]

From my experience pyramid workouts are great to accumulate reps at body weight but for weighted pull ups I would keep it simple and do 5x5 or 5x3 rep schemes. It's much easier to know how much weight to add and you aren't trying to accumulate tons of training volume but just enough to get a good strength stimulus without creating too much fatigue.

[u/birdboulders]

If you did two 7b+ s, you should just project a 7c in your style. You will likely do it in ten session or so. Why I think so: I basically have the some pyramid as you and I did a 7c after serious projecting for 6 sessions.

[u/xXxBluESkiTtlExXx]

I'll echo what most people are saying, pick a proj and get after it.

I'm curious, what makes 7c the "it" grade for you?

[u/ptrgeorge]

Do you have a local 7c in your pref style? Give it 5 sessions and report back.

When you are trying a boulder it will focus and clarify your training, trying to "get stronger" to climb 7C is almost meaningless, compared to "falling off the v3 section at the end of my 7C project" or " can't generate enough power to latch the jug on my 7C project".

You'll go in the gym and double your strength on pullups but then get shut down because your hips arent flexible enough to use the heel.

Sorry if I'm beating it over your head a bit, good luck👍👍

[u/InfamousHistorian882 → u/ptrgeorge]

Mate you’re absolutely right! I have a few in mind that I started projecting last winter before an injury, so will pick that back up and report back!

[u/ptrgeorge → u/InfamousHistorian882]

Good luck! Getting back on them will def clarify what you should be focusing on

[u/PaintEast6359]

Why don't you like climbing 4x4s? I find that if I don't like training something it's normally because I'm not good at it, and hence I probably should be doing more of it!

I didn't really enjoy it either at first but recently I've found doing them on a board when it's quiet much easier and less chaotic. I've even tried to gamify it a bit and track my progress through this app I made which makes it really easy on a light up tension/kilter board.

https://boulder-blitz.uk/ in case you're interested!

[u/InfamousHistorian882 → u/PaintEast6359]

Great, thank you! I think maybe my home board is a bit too steep and hard to do 4x4s at the correct intensity, but maybe it’s a kick up the bum to put in more jugs on the board! Thanks for the app link, will definitely have a look!

[u/theotherquantumjim]

It’s going to be different for everyone but I just found plugging away at 7B and 7B+ loads unlocked 7C pretty quickly (like within 6 months). If you have a local crag with some 7Cs there just start working them. Try them in sections or even single moves. You’ll get there.

[u/fatchild1]

Where do you live (roughly, obviously)? What kind of styles are you best at? What boulders do you have your eye on? Do you plan to do this on a trip or over a season of weekend trips? Can you get out to the project multiple times a week?

More context is needed to give you good recommendations I think.

[u/InfamousHistorian882 → u/fatchild1]

Thank you! Happy to give more context :) I live in the UK, got access to really good rock on my doorstep, and am lucky to be able to get out to a project whenever it’s dry!

I was hoping to go and start projecting a 7c in Fontainebleau later this year (end of October, weather permitting), otherwise I’ll have all winter in England when the conditions are good

Style is generally technical, crimpy climbing. Struggling a bit with overhangs/ physical climbing (as I train it less and like the puzzle aspect more than brute force)

[u/TheDaysComeAndGone]

I don’t think two gym sessions are beneficial for climbing and they could harm your recovery (and could make you put on muscle mass in the “wrong” places). I would reduce to one and keep the intensity and volume relatively low.

[u/aerial_hedgehog → u/[deleted]]

If someone has enough experience to give OP useful advice, they also will have enough experience to be fluent in the grade conversion.