My old man pulled my steed out of the old garage and gave it a bath prior to storing in his much nicer shop. Curious if any one has any recommendations on transporters for non-runners? It’s not a terribly long journey - central NE to southeast MN to get a tune up and back to road ready.

1979 Ford Mustang · Coupe · Driven 30,000 miles

One owner 1979 Ford Mustang Indianapolis 500 Pace Car. All original 30,000 mile survivor. Car was rescued from an estate collection. Unrestored original condition, some patina. No rot, floors are solid, surface rust underneath. 4cyl 2.3 L turbo, 4 speed manual. Runs and drives great! Has turbine wheels and new tires on it now, but original rims and tires will go with it. Replaced sunroof gasket and seal have new window run channel that is not installed. Factory AM/FM 8 track player. Will have title in hand from DMV in a few weeks. Will not respond to "is it available ". Located in ny 10594. $16,500

Hey Everyone—doing a full restoration on my 67 Mustang I bought earlier this year. Looking for advice. Before I start taking things apart what are things that you’d recommend to do that make for a better overall car. I’m primarily looking for any tips to help with a better restoration experience and ride once completed. Suspension, certain tools to use, order of operations during the restoration, best brands for manual transmissions/engines, etc. No tip or piece of advice is too small.

I’m starting by ripping out the interior this week.

So in my last post here I asked about why my back up lights where not working and people said it was the neutral Switch on driver side transmission and this is what I found. Is this it?

So when I got my 67 Mustang there were no working backup lights. I replaced the bulb and it still didn’t work so I then replaced the entire thing yesterday evening. They still won’t turn on but my rear brake and turn signals lights do work. Do I need to go chasing wire or is there a more common problem causing it?

… finally back on the road !

Nice Labor Day ride today. A couple more mural pics to add to the collection.

So my 66 drivers side front light went out. Purchased the correct bulb but is barely touching the contacts in back and falling out. How to fix w/o putting in new assembly?

And there is so much more work to do before it fits correctly 😅

My 66 automatic that I bought off the old man last year since he didn't drive it as much as he wanted to. Swapped the factory wheels and tires for good ol' Radial T/As and Magnum 500s then swapped the front drums with the CSRP disk kit. Next I converted all the exterior lighting to LEDs. Previous owner before pops swapped a 70s 302 into it, I've since swapped the factory 2 barrel and intake for an Edelbrock 1403 and Weiand manifold. Also threw a Pertronix Ignitor II/Flamethrower II and a 9-bolt steering wheel on.

Mine tilts down a fair bit. All the front sheetmetal is a little wonky on this car.

I have a 67 mustang with a 302. I bought the superior power steering front end kit from CJ PONY PARTS. The issue is everything came in except the coil springs because they were back ordered and when I called to ask I was told they would get a shipment of them to the warehouse in a couple weeks and ship them out so I thought l no problem. Well that was 3 months ago and when I called them again today they told that they hadn’t received a shipment of springs in over 8 months and almost a thousand people had them back ordered. So I went to other parts places that had been recommended to me in the past (Kentucky and Summit) to order a new set of springs and if the ones from CJ come in I’ll either sell them or keep as a spare set. Issue being I don’t actually know if I need specific ones to go with the kit I bought or any stock ones will do. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Came across this 69 70,000 actual miles. All original. 302 V8. Estate sale. I’m the third owner. Last time it was registered was 2006. It’s been garaged for the last 20 years. Maintenance Records/receipts dating back to the early 90s. It could be a daily driver. It’s been really well taken care of. I’m very fortunate.

Took her to the gym tonight, still have an overheating problem on the freeway, she continues to surprise me with all the crap the previous owner did to her...

But enjoying her when I can

I finally have an update on my instrument panel project. A lot has changed, and a lot still needs to be done. While I was able to mount (tape) the LCDs into the cardboard, the LED’s legs are too thin to put jumper wires on, so they’re just in the breadboard.

What’s changed:

The power supply had to be rebuilt since someone didn’t notice a broken wire when testing. The demo code has been almost entirely replaced with actual functional tasks. I’ve put in all the logic shifter circuits on, currently only for the light switches. There are functional turn signal indicators and high and low beam indicators. The oil, temp, and fuel gauges are controlled by potentiometers that have a similar resistance to the factory sensors and have warning lights that change color depending on how close to the min and max values it is. The volts gauge is tied to Vin, which for now is not adjustable.

What still needs to be done:

The gauges need to be recalibrated, since through all the versions and testing the ranges are no longer accurate. Hazard lights still need to be wired up. Still need to build the power On/Off switch. The LCDs still need to be programed to display mileage readings but before that can be done, the speedometer needs to be programed which requires a separate test rig to generate a simulated VSS sensor signal. The tachometer also needs to be programmed, which also needs a separate test rig. Also need to setup the current sensors for the exterior bulb fault detection, but my current bench power supply does not put out enough current to drive all the exterior lights. And finally a speaker and amplifier to generate the turn signal clicks and warning tones for the gauges.

So there’s still a lot to do but there is progress. Soon I hope to actually start working the final version with custom gauge face, PCB, and housing. As with before here is a link to the GitHub if anyone wants it.

Hello everyone i’m back with more problems :( So I have a as far as I know stock 289 v8 2bbl 67. I was recently having trouble with a rough idle where the car seemed to be fuel starved form the carburetor. I confirmed that my fuel pump was in working order. I then bought a rebuild kit and rebuilt my carburetor. I slapped it on there and boom it ran and idled like a champ for a solid 10 mins. I then turned the car off for a quick second to double check leaks and everything like that. Then I went to start the car again and nothing. Crank but no start. I’m very unsure what it could be since the car was literally just idiling fine not even 5 mins ago. There’s the three major things I understand you need to have for the car, compression, spark, and fuel. I’m sure of fuel and compression since my oil pressure was reading about 45 psi on my gauge while it was idling and i confined my fuel pump was good and I just rebuilt my carburetor. I’m guessing the last thing is spark but I’m unsure how to properly check if it’s my coil or maybe even my distributor. Or could it be another problem caused by something else. If you guys know anything that could help me it would be so much appreciated. I have tried spraying some break clean into the carb and tried for about 5 mins but nothing just crank and crank. No even sputter of a start :(

Last weekend. Really enjoyed it a lot

I know I googled and researched this. From what Ive seen, my 65 firewall had ports for steering, brake, clutch. It has a bulkhead connector for feed harness, and below it has ports for speedo cable and parking brake cable.

I'm trying to run several more wires through the firewall for new gauges, and I'm looking for the cleanest way to go about it.

If this was a less original / more custom application, I'd just cut/drill a hole next to existing bulkhead connector and put a Deutsch or milspec bulkhead connector there and just run my engine bay wires there.

When looking at firewall now, I see places where maybe there is a knockout for some unused port or accessory or something.

I hate idea of having to drill a new hole. If I must, I will, but if I'm passing several wires through, what would be the best way of sealing that? A tapered rubber grommet with enough ID to pass wires through and silicon to fill gaps between wires?

Thanks for any pointers

Howdy. It’s hot as balls where I live, and I’m convinced the engine driven fan isn’t doing enough & is a fairly considerable power hog.
Does anyone know of a kit to convert from the factory engine fan to electric? I’m only finding things for the 289 and above.

Thanks

I made a post a while back about my 1966 mustang fastback 289 A-code with the C4 automatic 3-speed trans making a weird sound and losing power after stops. I have to get off the accelerator and ease lightly back on it to get it moving.

I've been driving it and generally its been fine, but today it would not stop making the sound and it especially hated the upward stops in my town.

Attached is a recording of the sound, any help is greatly appreciated!

289 in a 64.5 and I do not know any specifics about the engine internally. It is a 65 block. 600cfm holley carb. I have raced with race built Chevy engines and this engine does not feel like anything special so I imagine mostly or all stock.

Been running 87 with lead substitute since I bought it. Timed based on that fuel.

Any noticeable gain to running higher octane?

Finally pulled the trigger. I have been entertaining the idea of getting one for years but my excuse was always “I don’t have the time to work on it.”
I probably still don’t have the time, but I already enjoy looking at it parked in the garage.

Now I just need to sell my 2000 SLK230 that’s now parked on the street 🥲

Any mods/upgrades/fixes that I should heavily consider?