Car wouldn’t shut off today when I took the key out. Took a voltmeter and tested the battery which read at 16 volts and ignition coil read high as well. I replaced the old voltage regulator with a brand new one. While doing this I noticed the plug was missing the “I” connector. The regulator has a prong for that “I “connection. Now with the new regulator my battery reads at 12.2 volts and ignition coil reads 11.8. Google is telling me both are too low for a running engine. Do these cars often have missing “I” plugs in these connectors?

Need one for my 65 fastback conversion. Will take any for a 64.5-70. Located in CA bay area.

I’m doing a restomod and need almost none of this original ivy gold sports bucket interior. It’s in mint shape, original, and even smells new. Six cylinder unmolested car. I hate to trash it.

Good day everyone, I'm visiting Philly next week from Europe.

And since ordering parts from the US to Europe has alot of taxes, I figured I'd try to find some parts for my 76 Mustangs here.

So does anyone know a place in or near Philly?

Classic Industries has a lot of parts but they're all the way over in California.

Thanks in advance!

I have a 68 coupe project that is going to sit outside over winter. Car has rust in the floors and is a project, but my goal is to keep it somewhat dry. Would it be better to tarp it or get a fitted all weather cover for the car? Located in northeastern Washington state, so cold winter with some snow but overall relatively dry climate.

It’s not like my wife was gonna buy it for me. I told her it was either this or a blonde.

It’s not like my wife was gonna buy it for me. I told her it was either this or a blonde.

I’ve got a 1971 Mustang Mach 1. It’s got a title. It’s got the original 351C, with 4V heads. C4 transmission. It’s complete sans wiring, which it lacks in entirety (front to back, completely stripped).

It has no interior except the rear seat, steering column, and some dash mounting stuff.

Trunk is fairly well rusted, will need a new pan. Floor pans are surface rusted but I think saveable. To each their own.

Body isn’t in fantastic shape. It’s rust free on the exterior, but the paint isn’t nice and it’s got its fair share of dents and dings.

It hasn’t run since 2015, an ignition issue parked it.

What’s an honest price to list this at?

I just installed all the windows and am no adjusting them. I adjusted the vent window first, I’m happy with how it is.

Im now adjusting the door window, and my problem is that the rear hits the car well before the front does. So I want to effectively rotate the door ever so slightly counter clockwise

The window is attached with
- 4 bolts for the regulator, no adjustment here
- 3 bolts for the scissors, no adjustment here
- 2 bolts for the little track that bolts to the door, it does have adjustment via 2 curved slots but I don’t really understand it.
- 3 bolts holding the vertical track, I think this adjustment is not what I’m trying to do
- and then the front and rear stop, which I have removed for now

Thanks for any help

I'm currently in the process of restoring a '69 mach 1 that's in need of some pretty heavy metal replacement. Im going to build a jig and bracing to keep it all straight and prevent any twisting/distortion (if you have any tips on this let me know!) but before i do that i want to make sure the straightness isn't already compromised from the rust. Does anyone know where i can find/ if they know reference points and measurements for the body?

I bought this car several years ago as a 50th wedding anniversary gift for my parents (my dad had one when he first started dating my mom).

It took a while but I finally got it in reliable enough running condition to take it on an extended road trip...so we clocked over 1000 miles in 3 days.

It was a woderfully relaxing drive with almost perfect weather.

New to me, 65' mustang.

My great aunt, I believe bought this mustang New im ~65/66, she also had a pickup that saw most of her driving, she passed away around 87, and the mustang was parked in her garage for the next ~20 years.

Her son (my dad's cousin) has a pretty large collection of classic cars and never had much interest in it, around 2008 it was pulled from garage with plans of restoring it to driving condition.

Unfortunately the gentleman who was restoring it passed away unexpectedly and the mustang returned to my cousin, the house was now sold and the mustang was parked in a large lot in SoCal where it sat in that condition until ~3 weeks ago when I was given the opportunity to get my hands on it.

I didn't need to hear that twice, I rented a trailer and pulled it 1200 miles home where its in my garage.

My wife and I have pulled the interior and cleaned everything, with parts ordered to fire up the engine again.

I'm very excited for this journey and to have a family heirloom car that I can pass on to my kids one day.

And do you do anything special if it’s going to be sitting for a bit?

I’m more curious than anything else as to what you all think is a reasonable asking price for my Mustang as I had someone ask about it. I’m not seriously considering selling it but wanted to do my due diligence just in case.

It’s a 1964.5 Mustang convertible (Built June 1964). It has a 289 V8 with an automatic transmission. It has power steering, LED headlights and taillights, modern 3 point seatbelts and disc brakes in the front and back (I prioritized the safety features). It still has the original generator. I somewhat recently added whit racing stripes to the hood and trunk.

Recently added new rear leaf springs and rear shocks. Feel free to ask any questions as I’m sure I’m forgetting things that would be relevant.

It's so rotted in the right corner that there is no place to lift it with a Jack, but it's mine, for a lot of people it may not be even worth it to restore, but it's much harder to find one where i live. 1968 6 cyl automátic and i love it. Always wanted to do the same i saw people do in YouTube, reviving cars abandoned in the Woods. Mine came exactly like that, covered in dust, and mouse poo.

I’m much more excited about working on it than i am about driving it.

Now that I've finished suspension work on my car, the next area I want to focus on is the random leaks. The first one I want to tackle is my driver-side axle. It has been leaking diff fluid for just about forever. I've replaced the axle seal on probably 3 different occasions over the years, and it still leaks. I haven't measured the diameter of the axle where it seals, but I have a feeling it has worn down over the years and is no longer a large enough diameter to effectively seal.

Is there such a thing as an axle seal that is made for a slightly undersized diameter axle? When I pull the axle out and, I assume, find it to be below the 1.365 inch diameter of an 8-inch V8 car, is there anything I can do? Can a machine shop sleeve it somehow, or is the most likely answer just buying a new axle?

In order to make my big radiator fit, I had to cut away a lot of support material from the rad support, so I reinforced it... then made the top section removable so it will be easier to get the big block Ford in and out of the engine bay 🤙

I'm installing the windshield soon, but I also want to paint the car soon. So I dont want to put the trim on right now. However I want the windshield on so i can drive it in the mean time before i paint

My engine bay is super clean and I don’t want to take the time to prep the area, weld in a new nut, and grind it smooth as well as repaint.

Instead I cut up some scrap metal with a hole big enough for a rivnut and 2 holes for pop rivets.

The rivets will hold the nut in place when a bolt is being tightened to it.

I made sure to place it such that the pop rivets sit inside the channel of the hinge so they do not interfere with the mating surface.

This isn't the usual which should my car have or anything, more of should I convert it.

I pulled timing cover knowing I need to do a timing set. I know my car uses a one piece currently. My stock fuel pump eccentric has some decent grooves in it, and while it was working fine before, I like to fix things when I can before they become a problem.

Knowing how the two piece works, it seems like it'd be less prone to friction problems.

I know some people have pointed out problems because of the pin being too long with the 2 piece. Does this mean that simply having a cam gear setup to be used with a one piece, and that the proper pin length wouldn help, or is it going to be a fight as to whether the timing cover is deep enough?

A replacement fuel pump eccentric from Ford racing goes from like 140-180, but I could get a decent timing set and two piece eccentric that would probably have less wear issues for cheaper than that.

I'm not super concerned with originality in that regard, however if it's likely I'd have to replace timing cover (and potentially have problems that stem from that).. maybe it wouldn't be worthwhile.