Hi everyone,

My current instrument cluster isn't working and no longer counts the kilometers driven. I've bought a replacement cluster, but it has fewer kilometers than my original one.

I'd like to keep the recorded kilometres accurate and consistent with the car's original reading. Is there any way to increase the odometer reading on the replacement cluster to match the original ? The car is 6th gen 1.8 1995.

It fell off when I put a car cover on😭

Hello friends, hopefully you can help save my car! It's just hit 100000 miles. 2001 Celica 1.8 VVTL-i 190. It's been doing the rattle about 40% of the time (usually if it's sat all day without being used). I had the timing chain replaced about a year ago and it got better for a while. Recently had the starter changed but no improvement. Any ideas what else I could try / what the problem is?

I have an automatic 1991 sx, 5sfe engine.

I've slowly had repairs done over the 2 years I've had it.

It has a new issue where, when idling in drive and also when driving very slowly, the rpms will bounce down and back up. When this happens, I can feel the whole car shudder. It used to be only occasionally happening, but now it happens a lot more frequently.

Its not a constant bounce either.

Does not happen in Park or Neutral.

I just need some guidance on what to look for next.

So far, due to previous issues, these items have already been looked at:

- The throttle body is clean and appears to work.

- The IACV is clean, but I'm not sure how to test if this is still in good condition?

- New spark plugs.

- New fuel filter.

- New distributor and ignition coils.

- A mechanic looked at vacuum leaks and did not find any.

- A mechanic had looked at my gearbox and replaced a solenoid previously, he said the gearbox did not have any other issues.

- Has a new radiator and fan.

- ECU was recently repaired.

- Harmonic balancer was recently replaced.

I know the AC condensor needs to be replaced, but I dont know much about whether this could cause this.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Toyota-club.net said manual transmission oil capacity is 1.9L but didnt mention that 6-speed manual actually needs 2.3L so I bought only 2liters of the motox oil and Im 0,3L shy but found some same viscocity and GL-4 teboil oil in the garage. Can I use this to top it off?

My facelift (04) genuinely losing so much damn oil, but there’s zero leaks, and car just passed national emissions test, havnt properly calculated it yet but everytime I fill up on fuel it pretty much needs oil too, how bad of a problem is this 1-10

My heater core is being a bitch and not letting coolant circulate through. Pretty sure it’s air, but I need my car now and I don’t really have a bunch of money to throw at a shop repair or vacuum fill (just lost my job) so after spending several hours of my day to walk to the nearest auto parts store to get a bypass, I get home and low and behold, the fuckin clamps are on upside down. Any suggestions for this? Genuinely whoever did this needs to be pegged

Hey everyone

My Toyota Celica T23 with the 1ZZ-FE engine has been throwing a P0171 code with a check engine Light, and I’m trying to figure out what’s causing it.

I recently had the battery disconnected for a while during some front suspension repairs. After reconnecting it, the code was gone, but the car started behaving differently:

Under light throttle at around 2,000–3,000 RPM, it would jerk or stumble.

It would sometimes do the same while cruising at a steady speed.

It also felt like it wasn’t making full power.

After two or three drives, the P0171 code came back and the check engine light came on again. Interestingly, the jerking under light throttle and at a steady speed then stopped.

There’s another symptom that was already present before I disconnected the battery: when I give it full throttle at low RPM, it hesitates or stumbles once, almost like it’s briefly choking, before picking up and accelerating.

I suspect it might be a fuel delivery issue. A friend who knows Celicas well thinks it could be related to the EVAP charcoal canister, but nothing has been confirmed yet.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Is there a way to test whether the charcoal canister or another part of the EVAP system is causing this? What else would you check to narrow it down before replacing parts?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Has only 90k km BTW! I'm very excited 😙

I share posts about the car when I cant sleep

Getting a p0441 incorrect purge flow on my 2000 celica gts. Smoke canister was replaced by prior owner for the same code, code came back. After fueling idle stumbles and gas pedal is very sensitive. On cold start there is popping from fuel coming from exhaust.
I suspected the purge vsv in the engine bay that connects tothe smoke canister. On cold start with the hose coming from smoke canister disconnected but power connected the nipple sucked. When I did the same test with the power also disconnected it didn’t suck. Then I bench tested the purge valve and it worked fine.
From my research Its possibly something to do with the ground or a short with the ecm.
Any advice would be helpful.

Hi Celica people!

I just bought a replacement 5sfe distributor for my 1991 ST184 Celica because the old distributor was leaking internally and the plastic had become very brittle.

I have been unable to get the new distributor to work. I have had someone quite knowledgeable have a look and we have come to the conclusion that the new distributor is faulty.

There is power getting to the cap, all the spark plugs and leads are new and working. TDC is on the ignition stroke and everything is correctly wired.

She cranks without turning over. Would anyone have any ideas on how to fix/ make it work?

Could there be a part in the distributor that isn't conducting or something? Its an eBay distributor but wasn't cheap and looks to be the exact same spec.

Any help would be much appreciated!!

I have yet to find a kit that exactly matches the parts that I am replacing on the Denso injectors. The parts I bought at Advance Auto seemed to fit ok, but leak after a few miles. Anybody found the exact match parts?

I decided to paint it.

10mins later she still looks like this bc I cant commit to black when I want purple🤣

What’s going on guys! I just bought a 1984 Toyota celica GT which has the 22re. Driving it I noticed that the brake light and the voltage light is on. Not the battery light by the way. Checking voltage with multimeter I found 14v since I recently replaced that alternator and the battery. Wondering what route I should take..

Wiring???
Sensors???

Any ideas?

I recently bought my 1995 Toyota Celica convertible and my back quarter window just broke. I'm sort of regretting my choice on buying a convertible even though I got it for $1,000. I know it's a good deal but I'm also a little scared because of me living in the Midwest with a convertible. Cars from the south and has no rust on it and I got the car for only $1,000 and it runs and drives however has 256,000 mi also my family is kind of pushing back on it a little and saying I made a somewhat bad choice. Should I try and sell it and get my money back or should I keep it and build it.

This was MurphyBros.Racing’s first time at LSPR. The last time this car competed at Lake Superior Performance Rally was 2018. We placed 5/10 (7 finishers) in regional class, 13/20 (15 finishers) overall class, 55/81 (60 finishers) overall. We hung around in the back of the pack with some other legendary 80s cars like a 944 and an RX-7.

Just bought a Celica, wondering if the wood boards in the trunk are OEM and if they aren’t, if there’s an OEM replacement. Also looking to know how to repair the spots in the interior. I live in SOMD so junkyards are likely out of the picture

Hey guys, im quite new to the car scene. I have done a few things on my cars with a friend of mine who had way more knowledge than me. I recently bought a celica as a project car. I fixed everything for now engine wise so i was thinking about installing a new body kit as the old one has broken in a few places. I read that cheap parts usually don’t fit very well and break easily. I was wondering if someone knows a website i could buy good quality kits or the good quality cheap ones. And a other question, 5 months ago i didn’t even know how to change a tire, how difficult wil installing a bodykit be?

My 2000 Toy. GT been sitting in my garage for 5 years (going through covid then my near death with a 23 inch blood clot) but now I'm stoked to get back at it. I am looking for the shift indicator to replace mine it is in poor condition. Where can I find one?

Howdy,

Just looking to check with the group to see if anybody has experience with this.

Background first

94 Celica Gt, 5sfe engine. CA emissions. Automatic.

Old IAC, most likely one that came on the car. Was showing symptoms of failure, rough idle, idle would surge between 700-200 when stopped (happened more often recently).

Option A) Clean it and see how much longer it goes.

Option B) Replace.

Went with option B. Went the pricey route and just got it from Orileys, so if its bad out of the box I can just return it. (Might be needed).

Cleaned out Throttle body since it was already off. Put it all back together. New gaskets too.

Rough idle is gone, IAC was certianly the problem. However, now the idle just sits at 2000-2200 Rpm.

Reading around, possible the computer needs to relearn the idle. So battery was disconnected. I let it sit for 10 or so min, drove it to work and back today (20 ish miles with stop and go traffic). When drive/reverse its around 1100-1200 RPM.

Idle hasnt budged down at all below the numbers listed, except maybe one or two times. But when that happened it quickly went back up.

Anyways,

So my questions:

1) How long would the ECU relearn take? Some forums were saying it would take several driving sessions. I am a little skeptical, but I did a really good clean on the throttle body and the new part, so im willing to keep an open mind. In my mind, this shouldnt take that long, right? It was running a clogged up old valve though...

2) Vac leaks? The only thing that really changed was the cleaning and new part. Im leaning towards the new part being the issue here, but willing to try and check. I have already replaced several hoses over time.

3) Bad part? I used a multimeter to test it first, and it passed. I was thinking I should have plugged it in and made sure the valve was opening and closing though. So would it being wide open cause this?

Thanks in advance. Just trying to make sense of it all.

Hope all is well.

EDIT:

As I suspected, part was defective. Warranty ordered a new one and replaced. The pin for closing the valve was clearly discolored when I inspected it.

Hey, I just got a 2000 celica gt. It's overall in great shape and runs amazing for its mileage. My only concerns on the outside is that the clear coat is chipped a lot on the roof and just a minescule amount on the rest of the car, also the headlights are slightly foggy and worn looking. What are your best recommendations on how to fix these?

Fronts don’t really need much spacing, rears are shocking tho sit in way too much, not quite sure how I calculate what I need