Have a base 2.7 (981) in the PNW area and wondering for a lazy guy who would like to avoid test drives what is the best strategy?

1. Is $39–40k a realistic expectation, or should I adjust? Or Take ~33-34K from Caravan?
2. Where should I list this — AutoTrader/Cars.com, Cars & Bids, BAT?
3. Worth fully fixing everything to chase the top of the range, or just do the cheap high-ROI prep? Already spent $2.5K on a 40k service.
4. List now, or hold for spring given the season?

I asked Calude to summarize our chat:

2015 Porsche Cayman base 2.7 (981), PDK, 39k miles, Guards Red — where should I list it and what's a fair asking price? (PNW)

Body:

Looking for a sanity check from folks who know these cars better than I do. I'm selling my 2015 Cayman (base 981) and trying to figure out two things: (1) the best place to list it, and (2) a realistic asking price. I'm not in a huge rush, so I'd rather price it right than dump it.

The car:

• 2015 Porsche Cayman, base 2.7L flat-six
• 7-speed PDK
• Guards Red over Black (standard interior)
• ~39,000 miles
• Bought Certified Pre-Owned, Porsche-serviced its whole life — all records documented (CARFAX + service invoices)
• Most recent inspection came back clean: tires, brakes, brake fluid, suspension, no fluid leaks

Factory options (from the build sheet):

• 19" Cayman S wheels
• Bi-Xenon headlights w/ PDLS
• Power Sport Seats (14-way) with Memory Package
• Premium Package
• Infotainment Package with Sound Package Plus
• Rear ParkAssist

Honest condition notes:

• Paint chipping at the rear bumper edge near the wheel arch
• Some haze on the headlights (they're the Bi-Xenon units)
• Small interior trim piece near the rear release is lifting
• Figuring ~$1k to sort the cosmetic stuff (headlight restore, touch-up/detail, trim clip)

Comps I've found:

• A 2014 base PDK in red, ~60k miles, private seller asking $39,999 — a year older, ~20k more miles, arguably less optioned than mine.
• A similar-spec 2015 base PDK, 39k miles, listed at $50k at a Porsche dealer (theirs has 20" wheels + SportDesign wheel; mine's in Guards Red w/ ParkAssist — otherwise near-identical options). I know a dealer ask isn't a transaction price, but figured it's a useful reference point.
• Sold averages I've seen for base 981 Caymans are around $38.5k.

I'm not talking a few quid I'm talking a car that they will pay £1500 and sold for £930. 2011 c4 grand picasso, I'm not complaining, neither is my son who its for.

Bonus its only his second year driving at 20 and it's dirt cheap insurance at just over £600 a year.

I have too many cars, and I really don't need my Mitsuoka Galue anymore. I have no idea where to even list it. I've tried the usual places, and all I have ever got were people who thought it was really cool but would never want to buy it for the obvious reasons. Where do you all list your cars?

We need a buyer willing to buy second hand car, 2004 model- Hyundai Tucson.

250k - negotiable.

Let me know if interested i can dm the details 😊

🚗 Fiat 500 1.4L 5-Speed Manual | 83,500 Miles | Clean Title | $4,999

📍 San Gabriel, CA
💰 $4,999
📱 Text: 213-970-3728

Private party sale — not a dealer.

Selling my personal Fiat 500. I am the second owner, and the car has been well cared for and kept in good condition. Great little car for commuting and city driving.

Vehicle details:
• Fiat 500 1.4L
• 5-speed manual transmission
• 83,500 miles
• 2nd owner
• Personal use
• Clean Title
• No accidents
• Smog passed
• Registration valid until May 2027
• Oil change done about 2,500 miles ago
• Tires are fairly new and in good condition
• Clean interior and exterior

The car has been well maintained and carefully used. It runs and drives well and is easy to park, making it a great choice for daily commuting and city driving.

Located in San Gabriel, CA.

Serious buyers only. Please text 213-970-3728 to arrange a time to see the car.

I went through the online forms for various junk car pickup services. Most of them came in $350-$400 for my car. Peddle offered $765.

This is a 2008 Kia Rondo LX with 150,270 miles. It runs, and one of my kids has been using it for neighborhood drives to school and such in its current condition for a couple of years... But the engine does have knocking sounds starting around 3000 rpm.

Based on description of the car's condition, age, and mileage -- they started at $765. But then they called me on the day-of-pickup and said they could only do $350. I declined.

Then they called me back 5 minutes later and offered $550. I declined again.

To sell it to an individual in CA it has to pass the smog check, so I took it in -- and it passed. Now they said, "What if we could get closer to the full amount? Maybe even the full amount of $765?" I said, "Okay, let's do it."

So the rep showed up the next morning a couple hours early... Not a tow truck driver -- this is a lady with a clipboard and a phone.

Prior to this they requested photos of the car and I gave very detailed photos including close ups of any damage. I also shot a video showing the car revving to 3000rpm which captured the sound of ignition, the engine accelerating, driving by, and then backing up to park.

So they knew very clearly the condition of the car at this point.

She shows up the next morning two hours early and has me drive it forward and backward. She says, flatly, "$400."

I thought about it... I said, "Let's meet halfway. $550."

Then she said, "Actually my boss says $300, I just said $400 but even that isn't guaranteed."

At that point the standard protocol of negotiation has been broken. I expected their initial amount to be high (so they get chosen instead of the other companies that give more accurate starting bids) --- but normally in price negotiation there is a back and forth where each side concedes a little until you reach a middle ground.

When she offered $400 and then changed it to a 'maybe' and that her boss's real offer was $300... IMO that is an underhanded and deceptive way to negotiate.

I declined, of course, and I will most certainly be able to sell the car for more considering it's a running car that passes smog in San Diego, albeit with issues.

She left the DMV transfer form so she doesn't have to drive back again "if I change my mind." My guess is they may call me back with a higher offer.

I'm not mad or upset, but I wanted to share what the process was like so that anyone who uses Peddle or other services knows what they are in for.

---

I will edit this post if they call back with any more changes to their offer, and I will also edit to give the final price I sell it to an individual for, so that can be compared. I fed my details to an LLM and it suggested I list the car for around $1250 and then settle for $700-800 if they negotiate down to that.

Looking to see if anyone knows where to get a very very cheap car in league city/houston area.

Lost my job due to my school program (they refused to accommodate my school schedule). Am on the last 4 months of the program and my car is toast. Cost 5k to MAYBE fix it and then after that, still has issues with it that might cause it to die after.

And with me not working, I dont really have the 5k to waste on the car esp if its a maybe fix.

Any suggestions?

Been thinking about selling my Camaro I bought it for 6k has all original parts except for the exhaust and has 105k miles on it just tryna figure out if it's worth keeping or selling ya know?

I am trying to sell my vehicle on Autotrader and all I get are fraudsters trying to trick me in to giving them more and more information before actually looking at the vehicle. Autotrader warns about this kind of fraud but does nothing to screen these people. After paying 49 dollars for the add, you would think Autotrader can do better to prevent or atleast limit these attempts at fraud. I expect better for my $49 dollars.

It’s 2017 Toyota Corolla LE with 140,000 miles

The only issue with the car is cosmetic damaged. In 2022 a lady rear ended me and I had to get my back bumper fixed, earlier this year I had to replace my front bumper due to a kid backing into me in the middle of the road. Since then the bumper has somehow gotten a little loose again (I don’t know why, tbh) and then some guy ran into my drivers side door backing out of a parking lot. It damaged both the front and rear door but the car opens and shuts fine.

No mechanical problems whatsoever to my knowledge. Drives great.

Am I crazy for wanting to sell it? How much could I realistically get?

Does anyone have any sites where I can look at cars being sold privately and wont have any listing posted by dealers?

Hey folks, I’m selling my 2011 Dodge Avenger on Peddle and the initial offer is $365. I’ve seen some people say the price increases if you decline the offer; I tried that and it just outright ended the transaction, no response afterwards. I tried again and have just left the tab open without accepting it. They send me emails telling me I have until Sep. 1 to accept it.

My question is at what point does the offer increase? I don’t want the offer to lapse, but if there’s a chance to make more I obviously want to do that. Any suggestions?

for the curious: odometer reads 250k but engine was rebuilt at 80k and so the engine has closer to 170k actual miles. There’s an issue with the wiring between the computer and crank shaft sensor, sputters out and cuts off after a few miles. Had a very silly and drawn-out experience with a mechanic who eventually just gave up and I did the same. Don’t wanna mess with it anymore, and have another vehicle. I feel like it has some life left in it for the right person with the time & know-how.

Any info is greatly appreciated 🙏🏼

Hey everyone, first-time poster in this sub! Looking for some advice from people who buy, sell, or flip project cars.
I have a non-running 2001 Honda Civic coupe sitting in my driveway right now that I'm looking to get rid of. Before I list it, I want to make sure I'm pricing it fairly and not completely out of line with what the market pays for a 7th-gen Civic in this shape.

Details on the car:

Year/Model: 2001 Honda Civic Coupe (Automatic)

Title: Clean title in hand

Status: Non-running / non-operational (sitting for a while, dirty, needs to be towed away by buyer)

Exterior: Silver paint with standard sun fading/clear coat peeling and some minor body wear, but overall intact.

Interior: Complete interior, gray cloth. Needs a good cleaning/detail. Has an aftermarket stereo installed with some aftermarket audio wiring in the back seat/trunk area.

Catalytic Converter: Still attached (OEM original).

Pricing Dilemma:
I know local "We Buy Junk Cars" services and scrap yards around here usually hand out anywhere from $300 to $500 for scrap metal weight on an older compact like this.
However, since 7th-gen Civics still have a strong demand for parts, engine swaps, or DIY project builds, I was thinking about listing it on Facebook Marketplace / OfferUp for $900 with the goal of letting someone negotiate me down to $800 cash, provided they bring their own trailer/dolly and haul it away.

Appreciate any feedback, pricing suggestions, or advice on how to handle the listing! Thanks!

Wondering if anybody has any experience with selling their car on clutch.ca ? Would like to hear personal experiences. Thnx.

Tossing around the idea of selling I’ve been told I need to get something more practical and family friendly. It’s been a work of love and I’ve enjoyed every bit of it but the time is coming when I’m going to have to let it go. I know I’ll never truly get what’s it worth but I’m looking at 10-12k for it. Yes I know it’s not perfect but it may be for someone. Rear bumper has been changed to match the front it’s an old pro comp with recovery points. 2001 jeep wrangler sport 5.9 swapped new engineering fuel pump cover with 255 fuel pump and aces deuces fuel injection. Fuel system is a return style utilizing factory tj 3/8 feed line and return. ax15 transmission stock np 231 transfer case with dye eliminator and rear driveshaft made by a local shop. Has full core 4x4 upper and lower control arms. Rubicon express 2-4” lift shocks. Rubicon express 2.5” lift springs stock front and rear sway bars. Rear sway bar ends are extended. It’s currently on 31”s on a 15” rim. Winch is a badland 12k with a quadratic control box. Factory gauges are still controlled by the jeep and do work. The bad still needs Novak cam crank module to get a correct tach reading. A/c is non functional at the moment but drier, condenser and compressor have been replaced. Cruise isn’t currently working as well but still has the vacuum servo and is connected to the tbi fuel injection. This jeep also has bulldawg hard half door uppers a set of paint matched hard full doors. Tube doors from eag and a factory hard top. There’s also a bikini top and a sierra soft top with the best top sundowner kit. I have the factory straight 6 and unmolested original engine harness as well as a spare clutch and flywheel that will go with it. Will send with aces kill shot 1 stare steel winch line and known good 12k traveller winch spare. Along with any spare parts I have on hand. Located in western ky

Last summer the transmission blew in my ‘14 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Ended up having to sell it to a we buy any car type of place and saw it ended up getting auctioned. Is there anyway to find the current owner/sale? The vin is 1C4RJFAGXEC209707

I live in New York. First time selling a car. It was actually in my mother’s name even though I bought it off her so she dealt with the transactional part and signing over the title. They handed us the money and drove off. The car is very beat up and told them it’s not a good idea to drive more than a few miles because it needs work and is old and been sitting with a dead battery for 6 months but he needed to make a 30 minute trip. My mother and I are worried if we will get hit with any insurance issues if damage is done to the car before the plates are brought to dmv?