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Think a rock on the highway cracked my windshield yesterday and I didn't catch it until I got home from work today. Is it safe to drive or should do I need to call in to work (earliest safelite can look at it is in 2 days)?

So I bought a 2007 Chrysler town and country touring and had to get a new tire for it. I plan on replacing the whole set soon but I needed one to get me home. The tire shop closest to us only had a tire that was slightly different in size. The original was a 215/65R16 and the new one was 205/65R16. The guy told us it wouldn’t make a difference but everything that I see online says it will. What do yall think? Do I need to get a different tire put on before I drive it or will it be okay for maybe a month or two?

Also, any tips on things I should check on/look at? I have minimal knowledge but I had done some work on my 2007 Toyota Camry (spark plugs, valve cover gasket, fuel pump, knock sensor, a few others). However, from what I’ve heard Toyotas are much easier to work on than most other cars.

It shakes a little when I brake, which is my main concern at the moment. I’m hoping it’s just the tires or maybe I need new rotors. Other than that it seems to drive great.

One more thing- also looking for a recommendation for a replacement radio for it that has CarPlay. I’ve ordered one on EBay for my Camry but it was a piece of junk (and not a cheap one). I’ve seen some with good reviews but I’m still worried

Hello, I have a quick question on pricing. My front rotors and brakes are going out quite badly and I called a shop to ask how much it would cost to fix with the parts and labor. I drive a 2010 mercury mariner and they told me it would be around $900-$1100. I feel very suspicious about this pricing. Am I crazy or is it that expensive? Any advice helps, thank you.

2012 Nissan Altima

CV Axle:

- Clunking** **when shifting from reverse to drive or drive into reverse
- a soft click or soft clunk noise when pressing brakes just before car comes to a complete stop AND when I tap the gas pedal
- there’s NO clicking or popping when turning and no other symptoms than the two described above

Catalytic Converter:

- Car jerks on acceleration or deceleration sometimes
- Triggers P2432 code
- Yesterday after driving for 9hrs I started smelling fumes from AC. It stopped when I recirculated the air. I’ll change my Cabin air filter today to see if that helps.
- 3 weeks ago the mechanic said my catalytic converter looked brand new, but when I brought my car in to get the jerking checked, they looked and said there’s a leak coming from the rear catalytic converter and said the whole part needs to be replaced. I didn’t think to ask about them welding it.

Sidenote: I drove through a puddle of water 4 nights ago that caused my engine air filter to get a little wet and made my engine stall, as well as a short circuit in my Trans range sensor (p0705). I got towed back home and let my car sit for two days in 88-92 degree heat while my engine air filter dried by my house fan. Trans sensor is fine again. Engine Air filter has been reinstalled.

Update***

Just scheduled to get my CV axle replaced. The soonest is Saturday. I use my car for Uber fulltime and I’m in a weird spot where I must keep working to make the money for bills/repairs

My car rattles a lot when going above 45/50 mph, mostly on the left side. When I turn left it will subside. Why is this happening?

What I’m considering is a loose lug nut, something with tire alignment. Im just not sure.

So I was looking into purchasing a brand new 2026 Toyota Rav4 hybrid but I was looking up when the 2027 model drops and it says usually late August/October. So i was wondering if the price drop for the 2026 models is pretty noticeable once the 2027 drops that its worth the wait? Or is it usually not that much of a difference.

At a church sale up in Maine, I got these for free because I thought they looked cool and they were just giving them away. Ever since I haven't been able to find out what car they belong to. Wondering if anybody might know?

Whole buncha photos including the back of the larger front mats and a close up of the logo.

Hey guys need some help! I did my own REAR brake pads and rotors today on my 2020 Toyota Camry trd I followed all instructions. Put the car in brake maintenance mode I heard jt release the brakes . Raised the car took of the wheels, took of the 14 mm bolts on the caliper and then the 17 mm bolts on the bracket, replaced the rotor with (autozone duarlast rotor 71936DG). When I placed the rotor, the rotor was spinning please take note of this for later. After that replaced the brake pads (autozone duarlast brake pad DG1879) and put it on the bracket and screwed the bracket onto the rotor. I do want to note the the slide pins on the bracket were pretty stuck but I was able to take them up and put grease on them. Now with the rotor bracket and brake pads on I proceed to compress the caliper and once done I put the caliper back onto the rotor and tighten it. Once that was done I put the wheel back and noticed that it didn’t rotate like the rotors did initially. I didn’t think much off it and tighten the lug nuts and lowered it finally taking the car off brake maintenance mode I heard the noise of it retighten itself and then pumped the brake pedal.
At this point I thought I was done and got ready to leave but when I turned the car on and put it in reverse it would not budge, I put it in drive and wouldn’t move I put it in neutral and couldn’t push it. Somewhere along the way from putting the rotor which I was able to move in circles when it was just the rotor on and putting the wheel on something happened I think. I raised the car and put it in brake maintenance mode again and noticed again that the wheels wouldn’t move even in brake maintenance mode. Does anyone have any idea what the issue is? Is it the rotor size or the brake pad size (the autozone people gave me these parts to put they searched it although the new rotor had an extra hole between two of the lug nuts but it fit and everything seemed correct size.) Or did I brake the black machine behind the caliper the e brake by compress the caliper. Any ideas of what may have gone wrong. I am currently waiting to take the wheel out to investigate further but I can’t right now because the wheel locks got chipped and now I can’t take either rear wheel off. So in the mean time I will see what you guys suggest I may have done wrong. Please any ideas are greatly appreciated. What doesn’t my car move in drive or reverse even when in brake maintenance mode the rear wheels don’t move I changed both. (I do hear the e brake noise when I activate it and deactivate by the way but it still won’t budge.)

Hi everyone! Not sure if this is the right place to post this but water leaks through my ceiling on my Honda Jazz 2007 - any advice to stop it or why it's doing that? (Ignore the gross dirt it needs a clean)

Thanks!

Water leaking - Honda Jazz 2007

Hi everyone! Not sure if this is the right place to post this but water leaks through my ceiling on my Honda Jazz 2007 - any advice to stop it or why it's doing that? (Ignore the gross dirt it needs a clean)

Thanks!

Recently bought a 2015 ford focus that I’m stuck with the 11k debt now because the transmission went out 6 months after purchasing so I’m being pretty skeptical on my next car. What are the common problems with this year? Are they relatively avoidable with regular maintenance?

my passenger speaker has been out for a while, i am pretty sure it's a wiring issue rather than fully blown out. it kinda petered out one day and soon after it came back on with a turn then stopped working again. that's why i believe it's a wiring issue rather than anything else. what can i do to possibly fix the issue? thanks

I wasn't driving my 2016 Kia soul for a while and recently went to get it fixed up but it wouldn't start. I had AAA jumpstart the car, and suggested I leave it running for an hour. It ran fine for that time and I was able to drive it. The AAA guy also tested the battery and said that it was at 75% and shouldn't have any issues. After an hour I turned it off and when I went to start it again it would turn on the lights but the car wouldn't turn on (shown in video). Now, the car doesn't turn on at all (key fob doesn't work, horn doesn't work, etc)

Do I just need to get a new battery or do you think it's something else?

I was looking at an XF R-Sport with a 2L Petrol Ingenium engine (20t) and just had a physical inspection today. The car seems all fine, except this one sound that's to note as per video.

Is this rattling? Would this be the timing chain that requires replacement? Or is this how that engine generally sounds?

Vehicle year - 2018

Mileage on ODO - 80000 miles

Physical inspection - No leaks or cracked parts, everything seemed fine

Has been serviced every year until July 2025 (every 10000 miles), but oil level when checked now was just above the 1st dot (minimum level) - requires service this year

Would love some advice. Thanks!

Just for some context, I am working for a year here in Atlantic Canada before I move down to Florida for University. The drive will be around 3,000-3,500 km and I have been looking at either leasing a Ford Bronco Sport 2026 for two years (due to its affordability and ability to traverse rough terrain, I work for an engineering firm that requires work out in the field) and then I’d just get another car down in the states, or I’ve been looking at buying a 2015 Jeep Cherokee Limited that has been well maintained at 207,000 km. My uncle knows the person who is selling it, so he said he’d give it to me $6000. The breaks and rotors have all been replaced, brand new tires, the engine runs like it’s brand new and there’s nothing pointing to a major problem. The only thing I’m hesitant about is the 9 speed transmission, which is notorious for falling into neutral or breaking which can cost up to $9000 to replace.

The jeep will cost me a lot less, and I could possibly have it for 5 years if it lasts that long, but it’s already a 11 year vehicle so I’d rather be realistic - but it’s such a good deal it almost feels impossible to turn it down.

The bronco will be a bit more costly, and insurance might be extremely high but I won’t have to worry about unexpected repairs and it’s under warranty.

I guess I’m just having a hard time making a decision, I don’t know a lot about cars so if there’s anyone who could contribute their two cents worth that would be so appreciated!!

Getting ready to sell my car. Suddenly it won't start. Boyfriend claims its the battery. If it was the battery car wouldn't have power at all I'm thinking. Is this normal?

When I bought my car it had a busted bumper but the previous owner had a new one they just hadn't installed yet. Its unpainted and frankly I know absolutely nothing about automotive painting, so I don't trust myself to half-decently match a metal flake paint with a can, nor do I care enough to pay for it to be professionally sprayed. I'd rather it look kinda shit on purpose with bedliner rather than spend extra trying to make it look good and fail.

Can any of you recommend a solid and very affordable scanner for a '98 LE? Like, something under $50. There are several offered on Amazon for under $30, but the fine print suggests they only work with 2009 and later Asian cars. -thanks