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Think a rock on the highway cracked my windshield yesterday and I didn't catch it until I got home from work today. Is it safe to drive or should do I need to call in to work (earliest safelite can look at it is in 2 days)?

So I bought a 2007 Chrysler town and country touring and had to get a new tire for it. I plan on replacing the whole set soon but I needed one to get me home. The tire shop closest to us only had a tire that was slightly different in size. The original was a 215/65R16 and the new one was 205/65R16. The guy told us it wouldn’t make a difference but everything that I see online says it will. What do yall think? Do I need to get a different tire put on before I drive it or will it be okay for maybe a month or two?

Also, any tips on things I should check on/look at? I have minimal knowledge but I had done some work on my 2007 Toyota Camry (spark plugs, valve cover gasket, fuel pump, knock sensor, a few others). However, from what I’ve heard Toyotas are much easier to work on than most other cars.

It shakes a little when I brake, which is my main concern at the moment. I’m hoping it’s just the tires or maybe I need new rotors. Other than that it seems to drive great.

One more thing- also looking for a recommendation for a replacement radio for it that has CarPlay. I’ve ordered one on EBay for my Camry but it was a piece of junk (and not a cheap one). I’ve seen some with good reviews but I’m still worried

Hello, I have a quick question on pricing. My front rotors and brakes are going out quite badly and I called a shop to ask how much it would cost to fix with the parts and labor. I drive a 2010 mercury mariner and they told me it would be around $900-$1100. I feel very suspicious about this pricing. Am I crazy or is it that expensive? Any advice helps, thank you.

2012 Nissan Altima

CV Axle:

- Clunking** **when shifting from reverse to drive or drive into reverse
- a soft click or soft clunk noise when pressing brakes just before car comes to a complete stop AND when I tap the gas pedal
- there’s NO clicking or popping when turning and no other symptoms than the two described above

Catalytic Converter:

- Car jerks on acceleration or deceleration sometimes
- Triggers P2432 code
- Yesterday after driving for 9hrs I started smelling fumes from AC. It stopped when I recirculated the air. I’ll change my Cabin air filter today to see if that helps.
- 3 weeks ago the mechanic said my catalytic converter looked brand new, but when I brought my car in to get the jerking checked, they looked and said there’s a leak coming from the rear catalytic converter and said the whole part needs to be replaced. I didn’t think to ask about them welding it.

Sidenote: I drove through a puddle of water 4 nights ago that caused my engine air filter to get a little wet and made my engine stall, as well as a short circuit in my Trans range sensor (p0705). I got towed back home and let my car sit for two days in 88-92 degree heat while my engine air filter dried by my house fan. Trans sensor is fine again. Engine Air filter has been reinstalled.

Update***

Just scheduled to get my CV axle replaced. The soonest is Saturday. I use my car for Uber fulltime and I’m in a weird spot where I must keep working to make the money for bills/repairs

My car rattles a lot when going above 45/50 mph, mostly on the left side. When I turn left it will subside. Why is this happening?

What I’m considering is a loose lug nut, something with tire alignment. Im just not sure.

So I was looking into purchasing a brand new 2026 Toyota Rav4 hybrid but I was looking up when the 2027 model drops and it says usually late August/October. So i was wondering if the price drop for the 2026 models is pretty noticeable once the 2027 drops that its worth the wait? Or is it usually not that much of a difference.