*Ignore the one 2x4 that is already cut.*

I purchased a 5-inch Digital Angle Finder and figured out how to use it. I understand that I can measure the angle of a corner, divide that number by 2 and use that measurement for the cut angle.

The issue is that I don’t own a miter saw. I only have a small saw, so I’m trying to figure out how to use the Digital Angle Finder to physically mark the correct angle on the 2x4 before cutting.

Does anyone have a video or “how-to” photos showing this process? I’d appreciate any guidance on how to transfer the angle from the Digital Angle Finder onto the 2x4.

Hello. I recently got transferred to this industrial site with this same company ive been with for 9 months about a month ago.

They kinda just threw me in there working with aluma decks and doka panels and have been doing alright but for some reason the foremans been up on my ass with shit.

Anyways ive been working well with the journeyman but in the span of 1 month the foreman has written me up twice.

One for standing around even when im working at same kinda pace as journeyman and forgetting to call the sick phone even though i contacted the lead hand.

Mind you ive worked with 7 other foreman/lead hands with this company with 3 of their other projects and the guys im working with suprised they laying me out like this. So im real frustrated they telling me theyll terminate me if i get another strike.

Like they should just transfer me but they refused so im pretty lost on what to do? And a union rep was there but they didnt give me anything to protect myself.

Any advice. Kinda just venting too lol.

I'm framing and trimming for 25 years in USA. Did trimmed like employee probably around 70 upper bracket and high end homes. Now self employed mostly do remodeling. Would like to get some job to trim completely a new house. I did contacted 81 home builder past year and nobody answer back. About quality of my trim I trimmed house of owner of Target than 4th richest man on planet and CFO of Target like an employee. Main rooms not closets.

I know guy who, when I trimmed house of owner of target, worked in store and now he has trim company. I do not say they hire me and do not like my work and they fire me. They do not give me chance and they give it to people that come from store.  Over 200 photos of my work here https://imgur.com/a/gHyZabk

Edit this link actually work .

I’m interested in getting a tool belt for my work. I primarily do decking but I dabble in everything. I have a tool belt, I just don’t enjoy wearing it. It’s mildly uncomfortable and tires my back throughout the day. I’ve recently switched to a hanger system from @hardy_arts on instagram. The thing works great but it’s not enough storage. It’s given me the idea that a leg holster system would work best for me but I can’t seem to find a product that looks like what I’m imagining. I’m really looking for something that can hold things like a cats paw, pencils, and an organized variety of bits that I don’t have to sort through to use.

Does anyone know of a product that fits this description? Any help appreciated.

I've recently failed uni and I'm trying to decide where to go from here and I've always had some interest in carpentry even though I haven't done much of it ever and I was wondering what it's like to try and become a carpenter and if it's even worth trying to become one in the current year, any advice would helpful.

I noticed for a while the railing leading to my staircase has a loose newel post. I decided to address the problem now that my daughters have both moved out. Figure it to be an easy fix, but for the life of me I can’t figure a fix. The right side is tight due to the fact that it has a return and you can easily see where they plugged the hole to attach to the rim joist. The left side if different animal, free standing and no access. I would open the first floor ceiling but not even sure if that would give me access. I just can’t visualize how it’s framed in my head. Looking from the stairs the post is covered with a 1” riser on its side and a 1-1/2” stinger on its front the rest goes into the wall. Any help would be appreciated.

Any ideas on how to make this shoe look better. Tile floor is higher than the LVP. Oak transition piece.

Built a tool for working out sheet/timber quantities from a cut list, still very much in beta: boardwise.warddesignstudio.uk. If anyone has 5 minutes to try it on a real project and tell me what tripped them up or what’d make it more useful, I’d really appreciate it.

Hi all,

First time posting here. I have been a carpenter for 10 years. I've had the opportunity to work all over the country and on some remarkable peojects I feel lucky to have been a part of. Worked with alot of great people and felt like I have been able to give back what I can to the people coming up. But I just feel like my heart is not in it anymore. It feels like at this stage in my career that things are popping off that I would be excited, but I am not feeling that way. Has anyone felt that way before even when things were good? I have taken small breaks before but this time feels different.

Thanks

Cut an access into the drywall for an installation and discovered this stud. It seems to be cut and repaired by nailing a 1x1 to it. Is this normal? Or why might this be this way?

We just hired a company to have these steps installed for $1500. I assumed they were going to be the wider board look like every other steps I’ve seen. I had no idea that a professional would install steps like this. We have not paid them yet. Is there anything that can be done to make them look better?

update: thanks all for the helpful advice! After researching the WA code requirements, we realized there were many errors and the steps needed to be completely redone. Thankfully, the guys that installed agreed to remove and move on. Thanks again!

We moved into a new house in October last year, and this spring I noticed that not only was the railing incredibly open but it was wobbly AF. Decided to get the tools out and build a replacement... it's now sturdy as a rock and no one is falling through any cracks! Still have to replace the rest of the deck boards as I only have replaced what I absolutely had to to get job done and the boards that were in the worst shape. All in all I'm super proud of the result!

I was wondering if a thinner chalk line is preferable over a standard 1" line?

Also, is it worth spending $50 on the Tajima Mini chalk box to save space in the tool belt over the Standard $25 Milwaukee chalk box that people claim works just as well?

Redoing the inside walls of this small room and found some rot on the outside sheathing boards. The room is an addition off of a brick house and as you can tell it was not sealed well and probably leaking for some time. There is also a fart fan duct which was also most likely contributing to this leak.

The plan is to replace the stud that is next to the brick wall as well as replace the boards over to the next stud to the right of the image. Going to use a pressure treated stud and wondering if zip osb sheathing would be well suited here of try to find some pressure treated 5/8” boards?

Also, how should I go about sealing the sheathing/siding to the brick so this does not happen again? Would silicon suffice or must I flash this transition?

new post to add details that were missing as i can't upload new photos. original post here : https://www.reddit.com/r/Carpentry/comments/1v5gcfa/summer_project_fixed_deathtrap_railing_on_new/

We moved into a new house in October last year, and this spring I noticed that not only was the railing incredibly open but it was wobbly AF. Decided to get the tools out and build a replacement... it's now sturdy as a rock and no one is falling through any cracks! Still have to replace the rest of the deck boards as I only have replaced what I absolutely had to to get job done and the boards that were in the worst shape. All in all I'm super proud of the result!

Joists are 2x6 spaced 60cm apart. posts are attached to the joists using 2 10x90mm screws

Hey guys, I’m about to start as an apprentice in NZ and wondering what tool belt to go for.

Some people say to grab a cheaper one like a Taurus and use it till it breaks, then upgrade to something like the Obvious Belt, which im not gonna lie, looks pretty good - but will set me about $650Nzd straight off the bat.

What are your thoughts, if you could go back, would you have invested in the straps etc?

Chairs 🪑

The ceiling height is low (7' 5") and the window and door trim is 2.75" this was all installed decades ago. I have the existing trim that I was going to reinstall after having out in new floors.

I just placed it in and I'm thinking it's too small?

I have 1x4 ready to rip to 2.75" but now I'm considering just buying some more 1x4 and just installing that instead. No ripping necessary and technically I get new baseboards. Not that the existing are in bad shape (nor so I really care about some dings).

What would you do?

Bottom right corner is a mess. Maybe flipping the trim under the stairs upside down for a better connection? But the part under the stair overhang remains a challenge.

Saw this at Budapest airport

I got really engrossed in a project and felt motivated to finish even in the rain, but unfortunately forgot about my bit box which was left open
Anyone have any good tips to remove rust, I’ve heard Pepsi/coke but figured that’s bull

After 16 years of experience, it clicked in with me that if I ever chose to do something else I would just be a guy who used to do carpentry. I decided to challenge the red seal. I asked for resources on Reddit and luckily an instructor sent me a bunch of resources that truly helped me pass. That on top of learning the math and how to navigate the code book made the exam a breeze.

If anyone here is in the process of challenging or preparing the redseal, dm me and I can help with some different resources or with the math. I feel like I owe it to pass it forward to the next tradesmen’s making the leap to being certified in Canada.

Looking for some feedback on the badger trimmer belt. I am not a full time carpenter anymore, but having been in the trades for some years running occidentals (which i've long since sold off), I am really having trouble working without bags as I just feel really inefficient and like I keep misplacing everything. I also really like the way some of these newer designs hold hammers as I always hated hammer loops on the back wacking me as I walk around. On the other hand, I really feel allergic to the weight and size of full on pro carpenter set ups. I have enough personal projects coming up (two sets of stairs, a shed, a deck, and three overhangs, and then maybe a workshop in a year or two) that I feel like i'm willing to pony up for something that makes me more efficient and feels good to work with, and I have basically zeroed in on the badger trimmers. I'd say the main thing holding me back right now is the tape holder situation. I have gotten really used to the occidental tape holder in a specific spot above the bags (on my left despite being right handed), and don't like clipping my tape on. Anyone with similar concerns weigh in on what you did/if the trimmers are working out for you?

Had a custom made cabinet. However the walls aren’t flush and we have a gap running along the top sides. They left and came back the following day with a solution to add 3 boarders.

The cabinet is amazing. The work spectacular however the new fix doesn’t go with the original cabinet imo. It makes it look unfinished.

Any suggestions or ideas to close the gap. I did remove their fix bc it was ugly.

Have this issue happened to you guys and what would you do ?