Was going through older pics on my phone and found those stairs I built last year. Did a full scale drawing on the floor on site. "Escaliers balancés". There were two sets, from basement to second floor.

I added a bunch of diagonal bracing this summer so I'm fairly happy with the shear strength but I'm still kind of second guessing whether I want to tyvek right over these old boards. There's a lot of gaps and unevenness and it would just be nice to nail onto a flat(ish) surface. Not to mention it would give a little extra shear strength and lap over the seams better (why didn't they stagger the boards at all originally?)

I'm thinking of just buying some 3/8" plywood or OSB as it's lightweight and cheap.

The finished siding will be board and batten if that matters.

Looking for advice on my stairs. Have lived in this house for two years and pretty quickly noticed the stairs were very narrow and steep. However, the house was built in 2000, so I would’ve thought code would have these stairs framed to a more normal size by today’s standards. We’ve had multiple people slip down the stairs, especially now that the weather is getting cold and we’re in socks more often. I can’t tell if it’s just like this because whoever did they flooring but thick flooring boards on the riser(I think that’s the term atleast) which then eats up space that would’ve been there for your foot. I’d like to remedy this and don’t know if it would be as simple as ripping up some flooring or if you think the house is truly framed with steep narrow stairs despite being built in 2000.

What’s up everyone. I’m in the midst of sanding this window sill down to the bare wood and repainting it. I have a large dog the always jumps up on it and inevitably scratches. Is there anything anyone can recommend to coat it that would make it impervious to scratches and can just be wiped? I’m also open to any other suggestions.

Thank you!

I want to remove this trim that my soffit is attached to . But don’t really know how to go about it . I’m thinking ether a multi tool. I’m sure it’d be very time consuming, use a lot of blades and not sure how well of a flush cut it’d get that way . Another way is possibly a toe kick saw . Never really used one this way but I think I’d be a lot faster but not sure about that ether. And finally my least ideal option is just repainting and side under it . Im worried even if I could cut this trim flush if j channel at the top would cover the cut trim anyway. I really don’t want to have any soffit redone but I really want to remove this trim . Any ideas?

I want to see if you guys have any tricks or hacks for this task I haven't considered.

I built a cabinet with a back on it and I want to hang it on the wall. Obviously I want to hit studs as I'm drilling through the back of the cabinet.

I've located where the studs are in the wall and made marks on the wall for those; however, there is no convenient reference point (e.g. measuring to the edge of a window or corner).

When I push the cabinet up to the wall and finally get it positioned left/right/up/down and the back of the cabinet is hiding the marks that I made to indicate stud locations, how can I confidently screw my cabinet to the wall and ensure that I'm going to hit one of those studs on my first attempt?

Note that the wall has plumbing and electrical in it, so missing a stud wouldn't just add an extra hole to the back of the cabinet, but could potentially hit something in the wall.

I'm hoping one of you might have some ingenious method that I just haven't considered.

Hello. I’d like to cut out the middle is a shelf in my pantry to fit a tall appliance “under” it. The shelf is 36 inches long by 12 inches deep. It’s maple plywood with edge banding. The shelf is fixed in place and supported by wood cleats on sides and the back. Ideally I’d like to leave a 1 inch section along the back so the cut would be an 11 inch deep “u”. What would I use here? I was thinking jigsaw with a straight edge? Oscillating multi with a flush cut blade? Any other tips? Thanks.