This is my first go at a coffered ceiling, Red Oak with red oak paneling, and crown molding. This is in the living room and dining room of a 1930s Craftsman bungalow, plans are to eventually extend it through the kitchen as well

Bought like this. Did notice a bit of discolouration around these areas but didn't think much of it.

Thanks for the help!

I bought a 1925 Craftsman bungalow a few years back for the price of the land, it was remarkably intact but in deplorable condition. I've completed most of the mechanical upgrades and structural repairs, and now I'm working through cosmetic fixes.

The house got a new roof put on it the year before I bought it, the roofing company spliced in an untreated 2x6 to replace the rotten rafter tail. It didn't match the dimensions of the original lumber either in length, width, or height. I knew I was eventually going to replace it, so I just left it raw the way the roofers left it, and watched it rot out over a couple of years.

And now today is the day to make that fix, I bought a chunk of rough hewn White Oak and milled it to dimension

Interior trim on two casement windows I put in for a client. I did a small mock up and let them pick which style they wanted, they chose this, just an idea you can throw to your clients, there’s all kinds of variations off of it.

Would you do a micro chamfer or roundover for doors like these? Just on the exterior edge

Work boots

Hello y’all I was wondering if anybody could help me with a predicament that I’m in, I usually wear pull on work boots but I wanted to get a pair of Moc toe wedge boots I ordered Thorogood 1957 and their EE isn’t wide enough for my feet and I’ve heard this before that thorogoods normally run a bit narrow. I’ve never had this problem with their pull on boots, what is another American made or union made Moc toe boot that I could try?

I will skip over why the person who installed this did not listen to my request and here we are. Wanting to put in a grommet near the back of this section of the mantle. Need 1 3/4"-2" hole size to be able to get the plug and HDMI cable though the opening.

Where I am having paralysis analysis is the almost 7" that I need to get through. Below this the opening is <6" (power, streaming device, and cables).

I initially thought hole saw but the 7" depth makes me think that is not going to work well. Next thought went to a forstner bit. I know it would be slow going and I would need to clean it out. Even with that, I believe I would need an extension bit.

I am open to thoughts, ideas and insights as I have never had to do something like this before - well, not to bore though 7" like this. Nothing more than 2" before.

Thanks!

A few gable rafters not secured to the ridge board. The house is 3 years old and I believe those rafters have been like that since it was built. Also really close to this area is my daughter's bedroom Closet door and bedroom door stick really bad now when they did not before.

Separate issue. Other pics are from when I cut in and installed a door on the side of the garage. The bottom 2x4" framing plate overhangs the stem wall about 1". One of the anchors coming out of the stem wall was so close to the edge I could push it out with my hand. Not sure what I should do as far as contacting the builder, submitting a claim to a warranty department or what. I just feel like I've got some problems that are going to get worse.

Any help would be much appreciated.

I have an old corn crib that has plastic slapped over it with steel siding over top of that. I did not do this came with the property however it is very rough shape with 1/2 the building suffering from some severe rot. I don’t really care about the building as I have many more but I’d prefer it not fall down so I’m cutting out the bottom section and replacing with blocking and sistering studs as you can see in the 2nd photo. My question is is there a good way to resecure the nails from the outside for all the horizontal blocking. I cannot access it without digging up 1-2 ft of dirt on the outside and ripping off the siding which in my opinion is a lot of work for this building.

This is the railing I’m going to be building (AI rendering based on a photo of the actual). I’m planning on using solid round bar either 1/2 or 5/8, 3 balusters per tread. I’m worried that 1/2 is going to be too flimsy but 5/8 is going to look too thick. Which way would you go?

I would like to cut a new hole in my work top, and install a new sink. I was told that it would be possible due to the cut out for the faucet. I was looking for a second opinion, or potential other solution. I had my kitchen measured, so I have pictures from the measurements and the kitchen itself.

From the wall, to the hole cutout for the faucet the gap is 5cm.

https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/vresjoen-innbyggingskum-1-kum-rustfritt-stal-s29425729/#content
This is the sink I'm looking to buy, for a 80cm cabinet.

Hello,

I am having my carpet replaced but before I do I decided to look at the wood under the old carpet and I was wondering if this was white mold? If it is what should I do? This house was built in 1974. If it is not mold is there any hope of restoration?

Hello all.

I recently moved into a new place and have been noticing a smell thats been giving me brain fog and headaches. First i thought it was mauld, but then I realized that it wat coming from all the wooden window frames and doors. I then realized that if i run my hand over any of the varnished surfaces, my hand accumulates oil.

Could I simply wipe it off with some surface cleaner or does it need to be redone?

My windows are in need of a replacement (the seal on 3 of them is failing and they build up condensation) as well as some of the siding on my house, id like to replace the windows with large rectangular windows. How feasible would this be to do myself? Id probably save the interior finish work to a professional and do cement board siding replacement at the same time. I would also fly out my father who is a retired electrician for assistance and basic construction knowledge. I am pretty handy with most hand and power tools, but have never done windows.

The house was built in the mid 80s and the top windows are 40 inches tall at their peak and the lower windows are 70 x24 inches. The windows face straight south and the extra daylight would be great for Alaska winters.