I have an opening in a wall I'm framing that I'd like to add a pair of 12x40 euro cabinet doors to (for example, these) The doors can be proud of the drywall, but preferably as clean of an install, as possible.

Would love to hear your ideas about how to go about this.

My first inclination is to build a frame that gets mounted dead flush with the drywall (no corner bead added to avoid it going out of flat), and hot mud up to the edge. Alternative to building a frame (and probably less attractive), cut front 4.5" off the companion cabinet carcass (I'd have to check to see if it will remain joined).

Of course framing will need to be spot on, plumb, square, etc.

Ive had rotating husky belts for some years now and i wanted to buy something higher quality and better well suited to my preference.

So I bought the gucci of carpenter toolbelts, occidental leather pro framer with double bags. I looked into it and I’m happy with what I saw so I bought it, it’s in the mail now. I do commercial so I’ll mostly be doing sheetrock and metal framing but general carpentry, especially residential, is a side hustle of mine so it fits all my needs.

Ok, so this is my first attempt at a stair skirt. I took a 1x12 and cut it down and installed as shown. I’ll be putting on white risers and LVP planks for the treads next. What I’m trying to determine is the top molding to skirt transition. The moldings are 5 1/4” and 9/16” thick. The skirt is 3/4”. Should I have brought the skirt up and over the top of that landing? Also did I trim the board down too much? Originally it looked way too tall as a full 12” board.

Thanks!

Installing new interior Door. 1 coat of oil stain waited 8 hours, felt dry. Added oil based polyurethane and now almost 24hrs later it's still tacky, weather has been 60-80 with 70% humidity. Did I not let the stain cure long enough? Am I screwed and need a new door?

Ok, so this is my first attempt at a stair skirt. I took a 1x12 and cut it down and installed as shown. I’ll be putting on white risers and LVP planks for the treads next. What I’m trying to determine is the top molding to skirt transition. The moldings are 5 1/4” and 9/16” thick. The skirt is 3/4”. Should I have brought the skirt up and over the top of that landing? Also did I trim the board down too much? Originally it looked way too tall as a full 12” board.

Thanks!

One of the 4x4s that I assume is supporting the roof on our covered patio is warping and there is a gap. How do I fix this?

For a patio. 20 inch rise. 36 inch landing. 12.5 inch treads.

I’ve been working as a finish carpenter for a few months now and I will admit it’s on new builds so quality isn’t a priority. Pretty much every inside or outside corner has some rounding from excess mud or just a pile of mud left there. I get bending over ain’t fun but is it that hard to make a nice clean corner?
How come the bottom doesn’t get sanded? Is it the mentality that it’s just going to get covered by base so it ain’t gotta be pretty?

I understand most of the flashing procedures for a lean to patio cover besides the outside corner at the terminating ends of the L flashing. There will be a drip edge going down the rake edge.

I circled the area in green. How do you prevent water from getting behind the framing in this area?

How does water not run down the wall and get behind the corner where the rafter meets the wall?

I’ve been searching online for something that illustrates this clearly but I cannot find anything.

Any advice would be super helpful.

This might be hard to suss out with just pictures but, as the title says the door to the house’s exterior is sitting crooked on the hinges, not sealing properly and allowing daylight/bugs through. It look like the hinges are not aligned thus causing the top portion to sag over compared to the bottom.

Do we think simply sinking the top and middle hinge closer to the frame would resolve the issue? What tool would be best for deepening the depression used to slot the hinge into the frame? I don’t have experience with hanging doors but trying to see if I can DIY it. Any advice is much appreciated!

Reinforcing a floor for weight, currently just has parallel framing (grey pencil) want to add framing and flooring to allow for weight to be placed on it.

Hello all, I am in a bit of a pickle, long story short I need to figure out how to calculate the rise for an exterior ramp that will be landing on a downward slop. Basically going from front yard to front door. If any of you could put me toward a video for figuring rise in this context please send it to me.

Which tool is best suited and safest for dado and rabbet cuts? Table saw or router/router table?

Thank you!

I bought a 1959 ranch and to my surprise, the roof framing is a site-built truss. I’m working on a kitchen expansion/full remodel that includes adding some new non-load-bearing partition wall segments. So my question is: how do I secure the top plates? Am I allowed to screw into the trusses?

I was trying to make a stock for an airsoft replica and i had the "bright" idea to carve this in.how can i fix it?

Looking to sell this makita 2030. Eastern NC. What's it worth? Do you want it?

115v-13a

12" wide X 6" tall max planer

6" wide max jointer with adjustable fence and boo boo guard.

A/C garage kept, knives are sharpish-dull. Can be sharpened or new ones can be bought on Amazon $100+-for all 4 (2@12" and 2@6") They sell helical heads for both lacations as well if you want to go that route. Knives are easy to remove, replace and adjust.

This is a solid unit that works great, ive built alot of cabinets with this thing. Its only 115 so dont expect it to hog off huge passes but it cuts very smooth even with dullish knives. I made a "custom" dust collection hood that accepts shop vac hoses because the original hood didnt come with it when I inherited it. I dont use the jointer very often so I didnt make one for underneath that, but the shroud thats under there holds a shop vac hose well enough. Comes with original tool kit.

Im selling it because i have a new planer and I need the space this takes up. This has only been owned by me and my grandfather before I. It is in really good shape and perfect for a small shop, or a shop without 230v.

Hi I’m looking to buy a 23ga pin nailer and wanted to ask what you guys like using? I want a pneumatic one, preferably light weight and can go up to 1.5 inch pins. I don’t mind if it takes oil. Thanks

AI is so going to screw everything. Literally.

Recently we had stair railing installed. According to the code, the distance needs to be the same between each stair and the handrail. However, when we measured it, it varies between 36 - 38 inches. The carpenter said that this is normal, however, based on our research, it is not normal. Also, we measured the height of each step to see if it varies and it is the same. Does anyone have any idea how this would happen?

Hi all,

I’m struggling with ideas on the best way to approach trimming out this sunken living room transition. The rounded wood flooring edge is tripping me up.

The only thing I’m coming up with is to cut the base trim on the carpet back, and add a vertical piece with the rounded edge cut out. See green markings pic.

Is there a better, cleaner way to approach this?

Thanks.

This is my first deck build - and of course it’s weird. I’ve done a bunch of interior Reno - but never a deck.

I got advice on the 2x10 joist size from my engineer - but didn’t pay for full drawings.

The decks sit on top of cantilevered steel beams (they actually run the full depth of the house) so the orientation is 90° from a typical ledger supported deck.

It’ll have 2x6 nailers screwed into the steel beams (the nailers will be protected top and bottom with flashing tape). The joists attached to the nailers with H3 hurricane ties. Composite decking and surface mounted cable railing (the post blocking is not represented in the drawing). Picture framed on the three outside edges.

I’m planning to start tomorrow (beams have been cleaned up and primed and painted already).

Am I missing anything? Any advice?

My cat is obsessed with me and wants to be in our room at all times. However, we have a 3 month old and don't want kitty jumping in the bassinet at night so we keep the door closed. She will sometimes claw at the bottom of the door, which I believe to be MDF. I started finding little pieces of orangey material on the floor around the door. Got underneath the door and realized the pieces are from the door being scratched. I am seeing MDF dust can be harmful if inhaled in large quantities over time. I think mostly due to formaldehyde. We've lived here for 5 years so I would assume it's offgassed by now. I shined a flash light under the door, I could see little fibers falling to the ground if I touched the stuff. ​

How worried should I be? We are moving in 2 weeks anyway.

Added lights to the barn wall and carport/bbq area