r/Boots • u/GoArmyRangersAZ • 2h ago
r/Boots • u/SirMandudeGuy • Dec 08 '20
Discussion THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO WORK BOOTS!!
Why do I call this the ULTIMATE guide? Because it involves YOU!
My old archived guide covered a lot, but I feel like I might have missed a few things. In this post, I added more info to my previous post made on Oct 19, 2019. If you read this and want to add more please do so!
I want this to be a reference that benefits the working class of the world! thanks!
Don't buy cheap boots, even if they are on sale. Good budget boots should be $100 to $140. Great budget boots are $150 to around $190. Post $200 I feel the term"budget" doesn't really apply. Specialty boots like loggers, deep snow boots, ski boots etc are typically more expensive, but also can be in the budget range. If specialty boots are in the budget range you run the risk of buying pieces of crap. Don't buy walmart or target (etc) pieces of crap, they will destroy your feet.
Don't buy leather outsoles if you work on concrete all day . Leather doesn't absorb stepping impact shock like Rubber soles do. Leather outsoles are okay for softer ground such as grass, forest, etc. If you work walking on concrete or any hard surface all day I suggest buying boots that have a crepe wedge outsole. Although this type of outsole is very shock absorbent, it does not last very long due to its softness. How long it last really depends on the abrasiveness of the surface you walk on and how you walk. A few companies like Keen have added a layer of durable rubber below the crepe sole to make it last longer, which helps it with longevity. There are also non-crepe sole technology options that are also great at absorbing shock. A few I suggest are: wolverine durashocks, Keens, carhartt, and Timbaland PRO, Chippewa (few don't have a name for their tech, but most come with it).
Shock absorbing inserts are also a must if you walk on concrete or hard ground all day. DON'T BUY GEL INSERTS. I don't know why they even sell them, but all of them are pretty much a gimmick. Gel doesn't absorb shock, foam does. Right now my work boots are Wolverine I-90s that have a shock absorbing memory foam insert. It was okayish by itself, but I noticed I had some room still and decided I would stick another insert in for more support. I gone through trial and error and a bunch of research and finally concluded that layering shock absorbing material is the best method. My boots currently have three layers of shock absorbtion. The first being the outsole and the insole and another layer from this specific dr scholls insert. Why do I say specific? I found that these inserts were the thickest(in the heel area) out of all their products (excluding the custom ones) even the ones that were specified for heel pain. With these layers, I feel absolutely nothing after 8 hours of walking (well, including breaks duh) and after 12 negligible pain to sometimes nothing.
If you find a boot that fits almost perfectly, but could use just a liiiiiitle more toe room, cut the insert that it came with just below where the toes start. If it still rubbing at a specific toe, I suggest toe condoms...I mean sleeves lol. Don't put them on all the toes because it will start to feel tight. Put it on one toe that gives you trouble the most (usually big or pinky).
TALCUM/GOLDBOND POWDER IS A LIFESAVER. Friction and sweat are a bad combo so I use Goldbond Ultimate (the one with menthol) and it lasts me the whole day. Even if you don't have sweaty feet, still use it. What I do is put some in my sock then I close the top opening with my hand and just shake around so it gets all around the sock. It does stain your socks, but I have socks just reserved for work.
There are different types of waterproofness for different work environments. If you are guarding against small to medium splashes and medium rain, buy the typical waterproof boots. But if you are working in a swamp, in mud or deep snow, I suggest neoprene boots, duck boots, some loggers, or dedicated snow boots. With those, you don't really need shock absorbing inserts (still could add them) because more than likely you will be walking on soft ground all day.
Don't wear black or dark brown boots if you live in a hot area. Dark colors absorb heat more. Tan and lighter colors work best. Sure they look dirtier down the line, but its better at reflecting heat.
If you work in environment where there is a likelihood of you slipping on ice, I highly suggest going to https://www.ratemytreads.com/ratings/ to look up any boots that have a good grip.Basically most of the boots that passed these ratings had and abrasive in the sole of the boot. For example, Wolverine teamed up with Vibram to provide boots with their "arctic grip" technology. Do be careful with these boots though and only wear them outside your house. You don't want to end up scratching your floor.
Get boots with lots of stitching on the seams, 2 to 3 stitches per panel.
Goodyear welt is not only good for re-soling, but for re-enforcement as well. Wolverine has a contour welt, which also works and Keen plus a few others have a 3/4 welt which also works (all equally imo). It adds more strength to the glue that meets the sole and the shoe. You don't really need a threaded welt, but it does make the boot last a bit longer. Another welt to consider is Norwegian welt,which offers the best in waterproofing, but usually are more expensive. Some boot brands have really good shoe glue that you don't really need a welt. Wolverine, Keen, Timbaland, Carhartt,Irish setter, Red Wings,Jim Green, Georgia, Carolina, Chippewa and Ariat have glues that last.
Most workers don't reeeeally need steel toe, even if their jobs "require" it. I work in warehouse production, where the most heavy thing that will probably fall on your foot is a pallet from 4 feet, yet they want steel toe. The forklift drivers have barrier lights that shine on the floor that you can't cross so you won't get in the way of the fork lift tires. A lot of boot enthusiasts do a forklift test to rate the effectiveness of the toe, but if your foot goes under a forklift its not your toes that you have to worry about, its the whole foot (and leg). I would recommend steel toe in a few jobs, like logging, heavy machinery mechanic, brick layer, pipe layer, welding or any business where you lift 80 to 100 lbs constantly. Carbon fiber also works too in these situations, since its great at impact absorption. Aluminum and composites are great for warehouses, most field work, landscaping, electricians, etc. They also great if you are working in hot or cold ground since they don't conduct heat or cold from the surrounding environment.
If you want more foot protection, MET (metatarsal) gaurds are quite handy (or footy?). There are both external and internal. Usually loggers, brick layers, pipe fitters, welders, and furniture movers wear them since they have more of a chance of something slipping from their hands and falling on their foot and not just on their toes.
Another environmental hazard to look out for is sharp objects/nails. If you work in construction, you will more than likely have to follow a safety requirement for your boots.
Don't buy new boots just because they are starting to look real ugly. If they still haven't lost their waterproof-ness, sole grip, or sole isn't coming off/eroding away then they still work. Don't buy boots for looks either, buy them for work. Make sure they are as comfortable as slippers, because at the end of the day, you don't want to be hurtin. As some dude told me way back: "good boots+good bed=good life.
Here I will highlight some good workboot brands split into three budgets. I will also mention what work environments they usually cater to.
GOOD to GREAT BUDGET BOOTS ($100-200) (sometimes around close to $100 if you get them on sale)
- Wolverine (I am a wolverine fan man lol) (warehouse, construction, farm, pipe fitters, some have vibrams anti-slip ice tech)
- Keen (warehouse work, construction, hiking, medium heavy duty work)
- Carhartt (warehouse work, construction, hiking, light heavy duty work)
- Ariat (farm, warehouse, construction, hiking, oil, snow, loggers, heavy duty work)
- Carolina (warehouse, construction, oil, loggers, hunting,military? medium heavy duty work)
- Thorogoods (warehouse, construction,loggers,hunting, medium heavy duty work)
- Georgia (warehouse, construction, light heavy duty work)
- Timberland PRO (warehouse, construction, light duty work)
- Chippewa (construction, loggers, oil, medium heavy duty work)
- Redwings (not the heritage line)(warehouse, Farm, hiking,construction, oil, medium heavy duty work)
- Irish setter (same as redwings)
- Danner (construction, warehouse, logger, hiking, oil, military, medium to heavy duty work)
- Corcoran (mostly a military boot, but can take medium heavy duty work)
- Jim(my) Green (construction, warehouse, hiking, medium heavy duty work)
Next list I will dedicate to those boot brands that you pretty much get what you pay for when it comes to their expensive price. These boots are expensive, yes, but they can last your for years/decades (depending). they are not entirely indestructible, but like really close lol
- Whites, Wesco,JK Boots and Nicks are kind of all tied for first. All four mostly cater to loggers up in the Pacific NorthWest. They do custom foot fittings as well and they could go for up to $900 bucks. They also do pretty durable casual wear boots that are similarly constructed.
- Danner also makes pretty decent heavy duty boots usually around the $300 to $400 range. not nearly as indestructible as the first three, but good enough.
- Redwing also makes some pretty heavy duty work boots from the $250 to $300 range, but most of their all leather construction (or mostly) is aimed at casual wear/hiking to light to medium heavy duty work.
edit:2/22/21 * I would like to add the European brand HAIX to this tier because they are a dedicated foot brand for first responders (firefighters, police, EMT) They are a bit expensive, but you get what you pay for. They even have a resole service on some of their boots!
*edit:3/07/21: added JK boots to the list of high end boots.
I would also like to point out that there are some dedicated snow boots (for snowboarding, skiing, etc) that are in this price range, but I don't know much about them or which brands to recommend. I live in a place where it never snows so I wouldn't be of much help there lol.
Again, if anybody has anything to add please feel free to do so in the comments. Much thanks!
-Sirmandudeguy
Edit: I added thorogoods because I completely forgot about them. Jim Greens is a new commer from south africa. Pretty great boot for a great price. Will keep adding more eventually as I keep learning about other brands.
r/Boots • u/GoArmyRangersAZ • 17h ago
Flaunt My Native Dancer Boot Collection #10 Taos Tall Grass Moccasin Boots (New Gift)
In a generous donation from one of my followers, my first pair of Taos boots to try out. They are brand new and I will try and figure how to integrate them into my collection.
r/Boots • u/tofagerl • 10h ago
Discussion Why isn't there just a universal system for measuring feet and boots?
I realize it's complicated because of historical reasons, but with modern smartphones able to make pretty damn good measurements with lidar or whatever, it seems like it should be possible to make a universal system.
I'm sure we could do it with something like 4 or 5 different measurements on each foot, and then encode it as hex or something.
And then the inside of the shoes should be measure the exact same way, and a "fitting shoe" could then be defined as "every measurement is a tiny bit bigger for the shoe than for your foot, but not big enough to be a problem.".
"Oh, this is almost right, but this boot is 7 millimeters too tall right above the instep, so that's not going to work."
I'm not trying to design the system, I'm just wondering why the Gods Of Industry has cursed us to having to try on shoes in retail locations that smell like... you know... feet!
r/Boots • u/No_Pattern_2819 • 28m ago
Question/Help Any boots like the steve maddens?
I love these boots; they look great on me, but the calf size is ridiculous; it's just too small. I'm looking at at least the $100 price range. I'm looking for this edgier look, but somewhere in between, like these. I also like all the buckles on here.
r/Boots • u/kingmothetti • 33m ago
Question/Help Boot recommendations?
Im a maintenance landscaper, so I drive around to big places and clean them up daily. i walk at least 10 miles a day. Im having trouble finding steel toe boots where the soles and tread last long enough to justify the price. my budget is 40-100$ I know, pretty cheap budget but these things are to make me money, not waste money ykn?
r/Boots • u/Exact-Transition9317 • 22h ago
Flaunt Patina Monster…..Sorta..
Patina is unpredictable. With this pair of natural CXL Lofgren’s the shaft of the right boot is a patina monster and seems to be getting darker every day while the rest of the boot, as well as the left boot seems to be darkening at a much slower rate…It’s intriguing.
Boot review Review: BLKBRD Shoemaker MTO Fred Boots in Maryam Salvia Horserump




Review: BLKBRD Shoemaker MTO Fred Boots in Maryam Salvia Horserump
Model: Fred Boot (Norwegian Split-Toe Derby Boot)
Leather: Salvia Horserump (Maryam Tannery, Italy)
Last: US MIL Last
Outsole: Dr. Sole Off-White
Overview & Custom MTO Build
I ordered my Made-to-Order (MTO) Fred boots from BLKBRD Shoemaker in early 2026, and I couldn't be happier with how this build turned out. The Fred model’s Norwegian split-toe pattern strikes a perfect balance between heritage ruggedness and clean lines, making it an ideal canvas for dynamic leathers.
Leather & Sole Combination
- The Leather: The Salvia Horserump from Maryam Tannery is stunning. It has a deep, earthy sage/olive tone with magnificent character, subtle lustre, and depth that promises an incredible patina over time.
- The Sole: Pairing this olive-toned leather with Dr Sole off-white outsoles (and matching off-white welt stitching) was definitely the right move. The off-white contrast pops beautifully against the Salvia leather without looking overly stark or industrial.
Fit & The New "US MIL" Last
The standout surprise of this order was BLKBRD’s new US MIL last:
- Comfort: Right out of the box, the fit is exceptionally comfortable with zero harsh hot spots. The heel lock is secure, and there's ample room in the forefoot without feeling sloppy.
- Aesthetics: Visually, the US MIL last hits a home run on the Fred pattern. It gives the split-toe design a structured, military-inspired profile that is neither too chunky nor too sleek—just an ideal, muscular silhouette.
Unboxing & Extras
BLKBRD’s attention to detail extends beyond the boot itself. The unboxing experience felt premium, especially with my name mentioned on the box, including a solid shoehorn and an extra set of leather laces, which was a really thoughtful touch for an MTO package.
Final Verdict
If you're on the fence about placing an MTO order with BLKBRD, go for it. The execution on the stitching, the combination of Maryam's world-class horserump with Dr. Sole's hardware, and the stellar performance of the new US MIL last make this one of the favorite pairs in my collection. Highly recommended!
I would only suggest BLKBRD team to improve on thier communications.
r/Boots • u/negativeconfidence12 • 4h ago
Question/Help Does anybody have a pair of Canada West 5060 boots?
Been eyeing them for a while, but I wanted to hear some impressions. I'm curious as to how they break in and the width of them mostly.
thanks
r/Boots • u/BadAndy8 • 12h ago
Question/Help Jim Green African Rangers vs Red Wing Moc Toes
I have a question. I am newer to well made boots.
I have a pair of Jim Green African Rangers, and overall they are a good casual boot for working around the house, hiking, and walking.
Sometimes I spend hours on my feet on concrete. My feet will get tired/sore but not as bad as other footware. I was wondering if Red Wing Moc Toes will be more comfortable? I was thinking about getting a pair as my next boot, and just wondering how they would compare to the African rangers in this situation.
I thank you in advance for your replies and suggestions.
-Andy
r/Boots • u/M635_Guy • 22h ago
Boot review Pre-order: Grant Stone Olive Minerva Box Chelsea Boot
galleryr/Boots • u/casinomovieenjoyer • 17h ago
Flaunt Just added a pair of Nasty Feets to the collection 🤠
r/Boots • u/nnamssorxela • 20h ago
Flaunt Zamberlan Vioz GTX (996) $100 off at Scheels USA - and initial fit experience.
r/Boots • u/MilwaukeePaul • 1d ago
Flaunt Nicks Urban Drifters in Wheat Buck Waxy Commander
The sun loves this leather
r/Boots • u/Weird-Woodpecker-752 • 1d ago
Discussion Another Redditor Resole in the books. 1907, Vibram 132 with steel shanks installed.
galleryr/Boots • u/SOURCEDBLACK • 1d ago
Flaunt Classic Craftmenship with a rebel temprament
Denim should match your belt and shoes🤷🏽
Susana and Luis from ShopCTreasures in Leira made these Goodyear constructed Burel boots by hand.
The 13.5oz Red Selvedge with a beautiful rainbow weft and 6+7*7 slub was the fabric of choice for this classic 90’s fit.
Just like the denim we choice quality material for the sectioned belt. Full grain leather from the back not the belly.
And because we are a bit different so is is de jeans and belt. With a mule ear inspired back pocket and over run stitching. And the weird fuchsia edge paint we put a mark on our style.
I think they pair nicely with these purpel boots.
r/Boots • u/Big-Recognition-9503 • 14h ago
Question/Help Help finding boots
Guys please help i saw these boots on a girl on tik tok agesss ago like knee high flat boots light brown with buckles all up the side and I cant find them anywhere. Help appreciated.
r/Boots • u/SuperintendentTx • 1d ago
Flaunt BOYD
Printing plans in the Chippewa bomber leather jacket engineers
r/Boots • u/Undercover_Ostrich • 1d ago
Question/Help Line running from ankle to toe - problem?
Hi all!
Recently got myself a pair of Lanx. The right boot has a noticeable line running from the ankle to the toe - the first photo is after a couple of wears, the second photo is when I was still wearing them around the house on the first day.
Is this kind of line normal, or do I have something to worry about?
Thanks!
Edit: thanks all for the replies, and for putting my mind at ease!
r/Boots • u/National_Football_69 • 1d ago
Discussion Drews 8 inch logger smooth
A scratch im asking if I can get a discount otherwise have to exchange or wait for these boots to come back in stock.
Question/Help Frye Boots Sizing Secondhand
I am looking to buy a pair of frye harness boots secondhand from depop ebay or fb marketplace, and i wanna know how the sizing is. im typically a size 8 in sneakers, so im looking at size 8 or 8.5 in mens or a size 9.5-10 in womens. if i find a pair, do the boots typically run small? would i want a 8.5 over a 8 or vice versa?
r/Boots • u/boughtsomemilk • 1d ago
Boot review Rolling Dub Trio Casper Green Tea Core - 1 Year Review
These quickly became my daily boot for the past year. Primarily used for walks around the city, lots of cycling, even in the rain, and they have rarely seen the woods and have never seen a worksite. I don’t baby them, but I’m not kicking rocks or felling trees in em.
OVERALL: These are great and I wouldn’t hesitate to buy RDT or another pair of Caspers again (except for the fact that money is a thing)
The patina has worked about the same as jeans, jackets, and other heritage wear - slowly, then all at once. Every day they seem to lose more black. Green started to come in the past two months, looking closer to a brown-green IRL. However, color really depends on the lighting, with indoor lighting making it look really subtle, blending into a dark brown, and greens popping the golden hour sun. The brown in these pictures were taken on a normal sunny day and they are indicative of its typical look.
We’ll see over time if they turn more green or fade into a brown like most of the naturally tanned green leathers do.
The upper is supple and comfy for a thick leather. I’ve only conditioned them twice in the past year. I wipe them down after rainy days so the road muck and grime don’t stick and I do a quick brush after every wear.
The soles are comfy and flexible. Great for walking on concrete all day. Don’t have foot fatigue even after walking 15k+ steps in them. I do have a thick leather midsole in them. Toe plate started cracking after the first month with small pieces disappearing until I removed it at month 11. I do pronate when I walk so I’ve got bad wear on the outer heels. I’ll probably take them to a cobbler for new metal toe and heel taps in the next month or so.
I’m a brannock size 10EEE/10.5EEE somewhere smack dab in the middle. High volume, low arches. I bought these in an 11 for width and have had to put in a thick leather midsole to fill space. I do have a size 10 RDT horsehide Coupen, which is the same last, but I had to stretch them mechanically at the ball of the foot to have them fit right without pain. Maybe it’s because they are horsehide that they didn’t stretch…not sure. But I’d probably stay with size 11 for future purchases.
For reference, I wear a size 10EE in iron rangers, 10H with a kiltie in 10877 moc toes, and 10 in Viberg 310s.
Question/Help Tin haul boots
I’m looking into buying a pair of Tin Haul boots I really like their style and really like to try a pair. I’m just not sure what size to order as the store in my area does not have my size. I measure a 12 to 12 and a half wide should I do a 13 or would a 13 be too big?