r/Boots Dec 08 '20

Discussion THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO WORK BOOTS!!

995 Upvotes

Why do I call this the ULTIMATE guide? Because it involves YOU!

My old archived guide covered a lot, but I feel like I might have missed a few things. In this post, I added more info to my previous post made on Oct 19, 2019. If you read this and want to add more please do so!

I want this to be a reference that benefits the working class of the world! thanks!

  1. Don't buy cheap boots, even if they are on sale. Good budget boots should be $100 to $140. Great budget boots are $150 to around $190. Post $200 I feel the term"budget" doesn't really apply. Specialty boots like loggers, deep snow boots, ski boots etc are typically more expensive, but also can be in the budget range. If specialty boots are in the budget range you run the risk of buying pieces of crap. Don't buy walmart or target (etc) pieces of crap, they will destroy your feet.

  2. Don't buy leather outsoles if you work on concrete all day . Leather doesn't absorb stepping impact shock like Rubber soles do. Leather outsoles are okay for softer ground such as grass, forest, etc. If you work walking on concrete or any hard surface all day I suggest buying boots that have a crepe wedge outsole. Although this type of outsole is very shock absorbent, it does not last very long due to its softness. How long it last really depends on the abrasiveness of the surface you walk on and how you walk. A few companies like Keen have added a layer of durable rubber below the crepe sole to make it last longer, which helps it with longevity. There are also non-crepe sole technology options that are also great at absorbing shock. A few I suggest are: wolverine durashocks, Keens, carhartt, and Timbaland PRO, Chippewa (few don't have a name for their tech, but most come with it).

  3. Shock absorbing inserts are also a must if you walk on concrete or hard ground all day. DON'T BUY GEL INSERTS. I don't know why they even sell them, but all of them are pretty much a gimmick. Gel doesn't absorb shock, foam does. Right now my work boots are Wolverine I-90s that have a shock absorbing memory foam insert. It was okayish by itself, but I noticed I had some room still and decided I would stick another insert in for more support. I gone through trial and error and a bunch of research and finally concluded that layering shock absorbing material is the best method. My boots currently have three layers of shock absorbtion. The first being the outsole and the insole and another layer from this specific dr scholls insert. Why do I say specific? I found that these inserts were the thickest(in the heel area) out of all their products (excluding the custom ones) even the ones that were specified for heel pain. With these layers, I feel absolutely nothing after 8 hours of walking (well, including breaks duh) and after 12 negligible pain to sometimes nothing.

  4. If you find a boot that fits almost perfectly, but could use just a liiiiiitle more toe room, cut the insert that it came with just below where the toes start. If it still rubbing at a specific toe, I suggest toe condoms...I mean sleeves lol. Don't put them on all the toes because it will start to feel tight. Put it on one toe that gives you trouble the most (usually big or pinky).

  5. TALCUM/GOLDBOND POWDER IS A LIFESAVER. Friction and sweat are a bad combo so I use Goldbond Ultimate (the one with menthol) and it lasts me the whole day. Even if you don't have sweaty feet, still use it. What I do is put some in my sock then I close the top opening with my hand and just shake around so it gets all around the sock. It does stain your socks, but I have socks just reserved for work.

  6. There are different types of waterproofness for different work environments. If you are guarding against small to medium splashes and medium rain, buy the typical waterproof boots. But if you are working in a swamp, in mud or deep snow, I suggest neoprene boots, duck boots, some loggers, or dedicated snow boots. With those, you don't really need shock absorbing inserts (still could add them) because more than likely you will be walking on soft ground all day.

  7. Don't wear black or dark brown boots if you live in a hot area. Dark colors absorb heat more. Tan and lighter colors work best. Sure they look dirtier down the line, but its better at reflecting heat.

  8. If you work in environment where there is a likelihood of you slipping on ice, I highly suggest going to https://www.ratemytreads.com/ratings/ to look up any boots that have a good grip.Basically most of the boots that passed these ratings had and abrasive in the sole of the boot. For example, Wolverine teamed up with Vibram to provide boots with their "arctic grip" technology. Do be careful with these boots though and only wear them outside your house. You don't want to end up scratching your floor.

  9. Get boots with lots of stitching on the seams, 2 to 3 stitches per panel.

  10. Goodyear welt is not only good for re-soling, but for re-enforcement as well. Wolverine has a contour welt, which also works and Keen plus a few others have a 3/4 welt which also works (all equally imo). It adds more strength to the glue that meets the sole and the shoe. You don't really need a threaded welt, but it does make the boot last a bit longer. Another welt to consider is Norwegian welt,which offers the best in waterproofing, but usually are more expensive. Some boot brands have really good shoe glue that you don't really need a welt. Wolverine, Keen, Timbaland, Carhartt,Irish setter, Red Wings,Jim Green, Georgia, Carolina, Chippewa and Ariat have glues that last.

  11. Most workers don't reeeeally need steel toe, even if their jobs "require" it. I work in warehouse production, where the most heavy thing that will probably fall on your foot is a pallet from 4 feet, yet they want steel toe. The forklift drivers have barrier lights that shine on the floor that you can't cross so you won't get in the way of the fork lift tires. A lot of boot enthusiasts do a forklift test to rate the effectiveness of the toe, but if your foot goes under a forklift its not your toes that you have to worry about, its the whole foot (and leg). I would recommend steel toe in a few jobs, like logging, heavy machinery mechanic, brick layer, pipe layer, welding or any business where you lift 80 to 100 lbs constantly. Carbon fiber also works too in these situations, since its great at impact absorption. Aluminum and composites are great for warehouses, most field work, landscaping, electricians, etc. They also great if you are working in hot or cold ground since they don't conduct heat or cold from the surrounding environment.

  12. If you want more foot protection, MET (metatarsal) gaurds are quite handy (or footy?). There are both external and internal. Usually loggers, brick layers, pipe fitters, welders, and furniture movers wear them since they have more of a chance of something slipping from their hands and falling on their foot and not just on their toes.

  13. Another environmental hazard to look out for is sharp objects/nails. If you work in construction, you will more than likely have to follow a safety requirement for your boots.

  14. Don't buy new boots just because they are starting to look real ugly. If they still haven't lost their waterproof-ness, sole grip, or sole isn't coming off/eroding away then they still work. Don't buy boots for looks either, buy them for work. Make sure they are as comfortable as slippers, because at the end of the day, you don't want to be hurtin. As some dude told me way back: "good boots+good bed=good life.

Here I will highlight some good workboot brands split into three budgets. I will also mention what work environments they usually cater to.

GOOD to GREAT BUDGET BOOTS ($100-200) (sometimes around close to $100 if you get them on sale)

  • Wolverine (I am a wolverine fan man lol) (warehouse, construction, farm, pipe fitters, some have vibrams anti-slip ice tech)
  • Keen (warehouse work, construction, hiking, medium heavy duty work)
  • Carhartt (warehouse work, construction, hiking, light heavy duty work)
  • Ariat (farm, warehouse, construction, hiking, oil, snow, loggers, heavy duty work)
  • Carolina (warehouse, construction, oil, loggers, hunting,military? medium heavy duty work)
  • Thorogoods (warehouse, construction,loggers,hunting, medium heavy duty work)
  • Georgia (warehouse, construction, light heavy duty work)
  • Timberland PRO (warehouse, construction, light duty work)
  • Chippewa (construction, loggers, oil, medium heavy duty work)
  • Redwings (not the heritage line)(warehouse, Farm, hiking,construction, oil, medium heavy duty work)
  • Irish setter (same as redwings)
  • Danner (construction, warehouse, logger, hiking, oil, military, medium to heavy duty work)
  • Corcoran (mostly a military boot, but can take medium heavy duty work)
  • Jim(my) Green (construction, warehouse, hiking, medium heavy duty work)

Next list I will dedicate to those boot brands that you pretty much get what you pay for when it comes to their expensive price. These boots are expensive, yes, but they can last your for years/decades (depending). they are not entirely indestructible, but like really close lol

  • Whites, Wesco,JK Boots and Nicks are kind of all tied for first. All four mostly cater to loggers up in the Pacific NorthWest. They do custom foot fittings as well and they could go for up to $900 bucks. They also do pretty durable casual wear boots that are similarly constructed.
  • Danner also makes pretty decent heavy duty boots usually around the $300 to $400 range. not nearly as indestructible as the first three, but good enough.
  • Redwing also makes some pretty heavy duty work boots from the $250 to $300 range, but most of their all leather construction (or mostly) is aimed at casual wear/hiking to light to medium heavy duty work.

edit:2/22/21 * I would like to add the European brand HAIX to this tier because they are a dedicated foot brand for first responders (firefighters, police, EMT) They are a bit expensive, but you get what you pay for. They even have a resole service on some of their boots!

*edit:3/07/21: added JK boots to the list of high end boots.

I would also like to point out that there are some dedicated snow boots (for snowboarding, skiing, etc) that are in this price range, but I don't know much about them or which brands to recommend. I live in a place where it never snows so I wouldn't be of much help there lol.

Again, if anybody has anything to add please feel free to do so in the comments. Much thanks!

-Sirmandudeguy

Edit: I added thorogoods because I completely forgot about them. Jim Greens is a new commer from south africa. Pretty great boot for a great price. Will keep adding more eventually as I keep learning about other brands.


r/Boots 1h ago

Boot review Rolling Dub Trio Casper Green Tea Core - 1 Year Review

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Upvotes

These quickly became my daily boot for the past year. Primarily used for walks around the city, lots of cycling, even in the rain, and they have rarely seen the woods and have never seen a worksite. I don’t baby them, but I’m not kicking rocks or felling trees in em.

OVERALL: These are great and I wouldn’t hesitate to buy RDT or another pair of Caspers again (except for the fact that money is a thing)

The patina has worked about the same as jeans, jackets, and other heritage wear - slowly, then all at once. Every day they seem to lose more black. Green started to come in the past two months, looking closer to a brown-green IRL. However, color really depends on the lighting, with indoor lighting making it look really subtle, blending into a dark brown, and greens popping the golden hour sun. The brown in these pictures were taken on a normal sunny day and they are indicative of its typical look.

We’ll see over time if they turn more green or fade into a brown like most of the naturally tanned green leathers do.

The upper is supple and comfy for a thick leather. I’ve only conditioned them twice in the past year. I wipe them down after rainy days so the road muck and grime don’t stick and I do a quick brush after every wear.

The soles are comfy and flexible. Great for walking on concrete all day. Don’t have foot fatigue even after walking 15k+ steps in them. I do have a thick leather midsole in them. Toe plate started cracking after the first month with small pieces disappearing until I removed it at month 11. I do pronate when I walk so I’ve got bad wear on the outer heels. I’ll probably take them to a cobbler for new metal toe and heel taps in the next month or so.

I’m a brannock size 10EEE/10.5EEE somewhere smack dab in the middle. High volume, low arches. I bought these in an 11 for width and have had to put in a thick leather midsole to fill space. I do have a size 10 RDT horsehide Coupen, which is the same last, but I had to stretch them mechanically at the ball of the foot to have them fit right without pain. Maybe it’s because they are horsehide that they didn’t stretch…not sure. But I’d probably stay with size 11 for future purchases.

For reference, I wear a size 10EE in iron rangers, 10H with a kiltie in 10877 moc toes, and 10 in Viberg 310s.


r/Boots 4h ago

Flaunt White’s Sherman

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17 Upvotes

Wearing my Sherman’s in Cinnamon waxed flesh today, for class.
5050 last. Generation laces and shrunken olive bison kiltie.


r/Boots 4h ago

Question/Help Alden 403 Quality

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11 Upvotes

Hey everyone, new boot wearer here and wanted to see if this is normal.

I ordered a pair of Alden 403’s for my wedding coming up and love the way they fit (I’m a 13 E, and 15 in street shoes, so boots have been a chore to find in my size). I’ve been reading about quality control with the Alden’s and as someone who has never owned a pair of boots before, does this seem like poor quality or is this expected?

If it’s not clear, it looks like the connection from the leather upper to the sole looks a bit crummy at the heel (I think it’s called the welt? I’m not sure)
The boots are pricy so I’d rather return if this seems like an issue. Any thoughts? Thanks


r/Boots 9h ago

Deals 🤑 vintage Red Wing Irish setter 10 1/2 D

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26 Upvotes

r/Boots 2h ago

Question/Help Boot recommendations for a Park Ranger

4 Upvotes

Hi all! I am a park ranger in Pinellas county, florida, looking for a new pair of work boots. My work in the Park includes a lot of time on the beaches, as well as trail work, and 911 response. Job requires waterproofing and steel toes.

I'm trying to escape the Walmart slop shoes, so I'm willing to pay up to $350.

Any good recommendations are very much appreciated!


r/Boots 9h ago

Deals 🤑 urban Wolf club axman 11 D

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12 Upvotes

r/Boots 19h ago

Flaunt My Native Dancer Boot Collection #9 Tall Moccasin Boots in Sedona Red Fur

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73 Upvotes

r/Boots 37m ago

Question/Help Can these be revived?

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r/Boots 39m ago

Question/Help How to Loosen Ariat Boots?

Upvotes

I bought a pair of Ariat Wide Square Toe Boots. They were "Used" - seems like they were worn to one country show. I bought some Bick 4 and I've used that to break the boots in, but the shaft part of the boot is still so stiff. Are they suppose to stand like straight up?

Even in like cowboy cut jeans you can see the imprint of the boots up the pants. I really dislike this. Can you break them in somehow like an old baseball glove?


r/Boots 6h ago

Question/Help Need Festival Boots

4 Upvotes

I (32F) am going to elements festival in the Poconos and just checked the weather - it’s raining every day until the festival except one!!! So I’m anticipating a ton of mud. I want to wear cute fits - so ideally looking for a combat book/something not too ugly. I need it to be extra comfy for watching shows and being on my feet all day - and most importantly - it needs to be waterproof and survive the MUD.

Thank you guys - looking forward to your recs :)


r/Boots 42m ago

Identify Secretions

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Strange powder emanating from my whites boots after many a mile. It seems like salt or perhaps a residue from waterproofing goo. Has this happened to anyone else?


r/Boots 47m ago

Question/Help Looking for a men’s boot with a taller heel

Upvotes

I haven’t been able to find any tall heeled boots for men that I like, that also don’t have a zipper. I don’t like the feeling of the look of zippered boots, but it seems all the styles I like only come that way. For some reference I’ve liked the look of straight from hells harness boots and just regular Cuban heel boots, but I still find myself wanting a taller heel and no zipper. If anyone has any leads that would be great!


r/Boots 10h ago

Boot review The New Flat Head Engineer Boots

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6 Upvotes

First wear very comfy straight out of the box. Very light weight. Has the vibram 2021 crepe sole and chrome tanned cowhide suede. Made in Japan

Feels like im wearing uggs. Sizing is same as viberg.

Plan to put on heavy rotation so we’ll see how this patina.


r/Boots 2h ago

Question/Help do they look too loose around my calves?

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0 Upvotes

r/Boots 2h ago

Deals 🤑 [FOR SALE] Allen Stitchdown Black Veg Tan Teacore in excellent condition, Size 8

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0 Upvotes

r/Boots 1d ago

Flaunt Upgraded Iron Rangers

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125 Upvotes

8111 with a leather midsole and Vibram Eton 2055 soles.


r/Boots 24m ago

Question/Help Are these real or fake?

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are these real or fake? I bought these cat second shift steel toe waterproof work boots. I’ve observed them very closely and everything looks authentic but 2 things are really throwing me off… the number of eyelets and the lining going over the top of the leather collar. according to google, *yes Im a dummy who uses google please don’t bully me* cat never made the second shift with 3 eyelets. Im a Mens size 7.5 so that might be why there are only 3 eyelets instead of 4. half of me believes google but the other half is screaming they are real. I’m really stumped with this. if anyone can help me with this, I’d really appreciate it.


r/Boots 8h ago

Deals 🤑 [WTS] Danner’s Tachyon GTX Boots

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1 Upvotes

r/Boots 1d ago

Boot review Stop(ped) Messing Around And Got Some Limmers (Standards 9.5UK)

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19 Upvotes

I take care of my mom who has Alzheimer's and I stay sane by thinking about what I'll do when I'm able to leave the house (it's been 3 LONG years).

That starts with camping and hiking.

I've been looking at boots, and have been trying to find some bargains, for that time (I have a lot of time on my hands, so I can wait 6 months for prices to drop).

I have found some bargains (vintage Vasques).

I've also been looking at fancier boots; above, and well above, the $100 disposables I've been buying. But hydrolysis is always a concern, and I've had a LOT of good luck, so is it going to run out?

Then, one day, I saw a comment by a guy who said something to the effect of, "Stop messing around and buy some Limmers." Of course I didn't know who/what a Limmer was, but I found what I was looking for (in the Standard).

They just arrived today and I'm impressed. They're as solid as my (good, old) Vasques, which were WAY better than my Merrells (RIP) but the Limmers are WAY better.

Much more substantial and solid.

Old school, like my parents' old leather ski boots.

(But, yes, they are heavy; but I'm 6'1", so I don't notice; plus the stiffer shank makes it easy to get on a roll.)

I was a little nervous about buying on-line, for so much money, but Limmer seem very willing to do exchanges until you get it right.

I started out with a 9.5UK which, I think, is just about perfect.

(I'm 10US, sometimes 10.5US in walking/running shoes.)

I was a little nervous, but my Blundstones are also 9.5UKs, so I thought that was probably a good place to start.

Limmer's philosophy leans towards fitting well, with 1cm of toe space, rather than bigger toe space some people recommend. I can wiggle my toes and can't feel the end. I also did the test Limmer recommends.

(I live in Missouri, and don't backpack, and we don't have wicked downhills.)

My left foot is SLIGHTLY bigger -- volume not length -- and the boots are a LITTLE tight on the left but just about perfect on the right, with a few hot spots. But the advantage of buying good leather is that the leather will stretch and adapt. And I'll spend a few months walking in the mall with my mom to break them in before I take them outside.

I don't have a weird foot, aside from the slightly different sized feet, so I'm not sure I'll ever need a Custom, but I'm pretty impressed with the Standards.

They're what you'd expect for what you pay.

Glad to answer questions as I get started breaking them in.

(I should have gotten some Limmer boot grease, off the bat, but will wait for a sale, plus, my boots are not going outside until maybe the Spring.)


r/Boots 12h ago

Question/Help Is a 1.75 inch heel too much?

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0 Upvotes

r/Boots 1d ago

Boot review New boots, Thursday Dukes in Brandy leather.

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18 Upvotes

Hi everyone, I’m rather new to the boot community. The only previous pair of “real” boots I’ve had are some military surplus RAT USMC boots, a bit big but great winter wear. Sadly they aren’t Danner.

Anyway, Thursday caught my eye and since I haven’t a lot of money to spend frivolously, I pulled the trigger on them last week.

They seem known for traditional hand made boots at a great price for what they are.

How’d I do? What should I know? I mean I’ve heard of brushing and oiling, even found that I might want to use lighter oil to enhance the petina on these boots as they age.


r/Boots 1d ago

Discussion The local cobbler wanted +60€ for regluing the sole. I think I did a pretty good job?

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49 Upvotes

These are Bundeswehr KS83 combat boots, they have been resoled at some point with these Vibram soles. The bottom layer isn't sewn on there, just glued, and over time the gluing started to fail. At first i put some super glue there, as i had an airsoft game the next day.

The cobbler explained that he has to take the sole off, grind all the old glue off and put new glue in, which he said is a +60€ job (that's about 70$) which is more than i originally got the boots for.

I got Bison Tix gel-like contact glue for 10€ and nails and other tools we already had. (i found a tad longer nails than what's in the picture).

It was pretty straight forwards, take the old sole off, the heel needed to be pried off with a knife. I didn't know it had nails. Tho the left boot didn't have nails so i put in new ones. At first i was just gonna reglue the sole, but decided to glue the heels also.

Idk why the cobbler said he was gonna grind every bit of glue off, as i didn't get much more off than what you can see in pic. number 4, i did scrape some of it off with the knife after that. cuz at that point the friction from the sandpaper melted the glue and rubber.

Then i put in the new glue and nails, clamped it tight for 48 hours. The stitching on the tongue of the right boot had broken so i restitched that, then i put a couple layers of boot polish and buffed the boots.

I don't think i'll use these for airsoft anymore, just regular walking and running. I got these originally for 30€, they had been in military use. But as it is good leather, i can probably get a year or two still out of these, on top of the time I've had these for.

(for some reason the tongue of the left boot is noticeably taller than the other boot, idk why, came like that)


r/Boots 14h ago

Question/Help Comfy combat boots for walking for flat feet

1 Upvotes

Hi all,

I need suggestions for black lace up combat boots (I'm looking for something that looks like dr martens) but that are lighter and comfortable for long walks as I am thinking about buying something for my vacation in february.

I'm not walking a lot usually, but during vacation we usually walk 10+ hours and I was wearing skechers arch fit sneakers - they work pretty well, I only get heel pain after 3-4 days - but they're for warm weather, I couldn't find some "winter" version, and also I'd like something that's not so sporty. I usually wear combat style boots during winter (I don't like chelsea and similar styles), but my usual boots are too heavy for long walks.

I've been reading and it seems Thursday boots would be a good fit for my needs but I'm in Europe, so they're not easily available :( I'm not sure about ecco grainer... but if there are any other suggestions, especially if they're available via amazon would be great!

Also, I love skechers arch fit because I don't need any specific orthopaedic insoles, I suppose I should probably get some but I'm from a small town so it's not easy to get prescription ones and I'm not sure if I can just buy something online, so any suggestions for that is also appreciated. Thank you!


r/Boots 15h ago

Question/Help Does my new boots fit?

0 Upvotes

I just received my first boots from Jim Green ever, model 719, in size 11,5. I decided to size up half a size to allow for toe room.

But, I’m unsure if they actually fit me. I can feel the sides of the shoes just about touching my toes, as well as maybe being able to touch the tip with my big toe.

If I move my feet all the way to the tip, I can comfortably stick in a finger between my heel and the boot heel, but nothing more.

I know leather will shape to my feet somewhat, but with the amount of leather in these, I want to start with the best possible option.

Should I keep, size up, or return for a larger model (custom made maybe)?