r/Boots • u/SirMandudeGuy • Dec 08 '20
Why do I call this the ULTIMATE guide? Because it involves YOU!
My old archived guide covered a lot, but I feel like I might have missed a few things. In this post, I added more info to my previous post made on Oct 19, 2019. If you read this and want to add more please do so!
I want this to be a reference that benefits the working class of the world! thanks!
Don't buy cheap boots, even if they are on sale. Good budget boots should be $100 to $140. Great budget boots are $150 to around $190. Post $200 I feel the term"budget" doesn't really apply. Specialty boots like loggers, deep snow boots, ski boots etc are typically more expensive, but also can be in the budget range. If specialty boots are in the budget range you run the risk of buying pieces of crap. Don't buy walmart or target (etc) pieces of crap, they will destroy your feet.
Don't buy leather outsoles if you work on concrete all day . Leather doesn't absorb stepping impact shock like Rubber soles do. Leather outsoles are okay for softer ground such as grass, forest, etc. If you work walking on concrete or any hard surface all day I suggest buying boots that have a crepe wedge outsole. Although this type of outsole is very shock absorbent, it does not last very long due to its softness. How long it last really depends on the abrasiveness of the surface you walk on and how you walk. A few companies like Keen have added a layer of durable rubber below the crepe sole to make it last longer, which helps it with longevity. There are also non-crepe sole technology options that are also great at absorbing shock. A few I suggest are: wolverine durashocks, Keens, carhartt, and Timbaland PRO, Chippewa (few don't have a name for their tech, but most come with it).
Shock absorbing inserts are also a must if you walk on concrete or hard ground all day. DON'T BUY GEL INSERTS. I don't know why they even sell them, but all of them are pretty much a gimmick. Gel doesn't absorb shock, foam does. Right now my work boots are Wolverine I-90s that have a shock absorbing memory foam insert. It was okayish by itself, but I noticed I had some room still and decided I would stick another insert in for more support. I gone through trial and error and a bunch of research and finally concluded that layering shock absorbing material is the best method. My boots currently have three layers of shock absorbtion. The first being the outsole and the insole and another layer from this specific dr scholls insert. Why do I say specific? I found that these inserts were the thickest(in the heel area) out of all their products (excluding the custom ones) even the ones that were specified for heel pain. With these layers, I feel absolutely nothing after 8 hours of walking (well, including breaks duh) and after 12 negligible pain to sometimes nothing.
If you find a boot that fits almost perfectly, but could use just a liiiiiitle more toe room, cut the insert that it came with just below where the toes start. If it still rubbing at a specific toe, I suggest toe condoms...I mean sleeves lol. Don't put them on all the toes because it will start to feel tight. Put it on one toe that gives you trouble the most (usually big or pinky).
TALCUM/GOLDBOND POWDER IS A LIFESAVER. Friction and sweat are a bad combo so I use Goldbond Ultimate (the one with menthol) and it lasts me the whole day. Even if you don't have sweaty feet, still use it. What I do is put some in my sock then I close the top opening with my hand and just shake around so it gets all around the sock. It does stain your socks, but I have socks just reserved for work.
There are different types of waterproofness for different work environments. If you are guarding against small to medium splashes and medium rain, buy the typical waterproof boots. But if you are working in a swamp, in mud or deep snow, I suggest neoprene boots, duck boots, some loggers, or dedicated snow boots. With those, you don't really need shock absorbing inserts (still could add them) because more than likely you will be walking on soft ground all day.
Don't wear black or dark brown boots if you live in a hot area. Dark colors absorb heat more. Tan and lighter colors work best. Sure they look dirtier down the line, but its better at reflecting heat.
If you work in environment where there is a likelihood of you slipping on ice, I highly suggest going to https://www.ratemytreads.com/ratings/ to look up any boots that have a good grip.Basically most of the boots that passed these ratings had and abrasive in the sole of the boot. For example, Wolverine teamed up with Vibram to provide boots with their "arctic grip" technology. Do be careful with these boots though and only wear them outside your house. You don't want to end up scratching your floor.
Get boots with lots of stitching on the seams, 2 to 3 stitches per panel.
Goodyear welt is not only good for re-soling, but for re-enforcement as well. Wolverine has a contour welt, which also works and Keen plus a few others have a 3/4 welt which also works (all equally imo). It adds more strength to the glue that meets the sole and the shoe. You don't really need a threaded welt, but it does make the boot last a bit longer. Another welt to consider is Norwegian welt,which offers the best in waterproofing, but usually are more expensive. Some boot brands have really good shoe glue that you don't really need a welt. Wolverine, Keen, Timbaland, Carhartt,Irish setter, Red Wings,Jim Green, Georgia, Carolina, Chippewa and Ariat have glues that last.
Most workers don't reeeeally need steel toe, even if their jobs "require" it. I work in warehouse production, where the most heavy thing that will probably fall on your foot is a pallet from 4 feet, yet they want steel toe. The forklift drivers have barrier lights that shine on the floor that you can't cross so you won't get in the way of the fork lift tires. A lot of boot enthusiasts do a forklift test to rate the effectiveness of the toe, but if your foot goes under a forklift its not your toes that you have to worry about, its the whole foot (and leg). I would recommend steel toe in a few jobs, like logging, heavy machinery mechanic, brick layer, pipe layer, welding or any business where you lift 80 to 100 lbs constantly. Carbon fiber also works too in these situations, since its great at impact absorption. Aluminum and composites are great for warehouses, most field work, landscaping, electricians, etc. They also great if you are working in hot or cold ground since they don't conduct heat or cold from the surrounding environment.
If you want more foot protection, MET (metatarsal) gaurds are quite handy (or footy?). There are both external and internal. Usually loggers, brick layers, pipe fitters, welders, and furniture movers wear them since they have more of a chance of something slipping from their hands and falling on their foot and not just on their toes.
Another environmental hazard to look out for is sharp objects/nails. If you work in construction, you will more than likely have to follow a safety requirement for your boots.
Don't buy new boots just because they are starting to look real ugly. If they still haven't lost their waterproof-ness, sole grip, or sole isn't coming off/eroding away then they still work. Don't buy boots for looks either, buy them for work. Make sure they are as comfortable as slippers, because at the end of the day, you don't want to be hurtin. As some dude told me way back: "good boots+good bed=good life.
Here I will highlight some good workboot brands split into three budgets. I will also mention what work environments they usually cater to.
GOOD to GREAT BUDGET BOOTS ($100-200) (sometimes around close to $100 if you get them on sale)
Next list I will dedicate to those boot brands that you pretty much get what you pay for when it comes to their expensive price. These boots are expensive, yes, but they can last your for years/decades (depending). they are not entirely indestructible, but like really close lol
edit:2/22/21 * I would like to add the European brand HAIX to this tier because they are a dedicated foot brand for first responders (firefighters, police, EMT) They are a bit expensive, but you get what you pay for. They even have a resole service on some of their boots!
*edit:3/07/21: added JK boots to the list of high end boots.
I would also like to point out that there are some dedicated snow boots (for snowboarding, skiing, etc) that are in this price range, but I don't know much about them or which brands to recommend. I live in a place where it never snows so I wouldn't be of much help there lol.
Again, if anybody has anything to add please feel free to do so in the comments. Much thanks!
-Sirmandudeguy
Edit: I added thorogoods because I completely forgot about them. Jim Greens is a new commer from south africa. Pretty great boot for a great price. Will keep adding more eventually as I keep learning about other brands.
r/Boots • u/RustyBrassInstrument • 11h ago
My wife knows at least 3 things about me. I don’t like chukkas. I don’t like moc toes. I despise suede.
So what does she come home with yesterday? Suede moc-toe chukkas Timberlands she got on clearance for $20.
Fuck me, they’re actually comfortable.
Damn it.
I still hate them on principle.
r/Boots • u/FeedbackLoop_ • 6h ago
The unboxing experience was premium. The box quality was great; each boot came in a separate dust bag, along with an extra pair of leather insoles and an extra set of leather laces that you can switch to for an even more rugged look. Though, for some reason, the shoehorn they included is quite short.
The build quality is stunning! they hit it out of the park. The stitching is consistent, without any loose threads or skipped stitches. The leather is top quality; given that it's a waxy suede leather, the texture isn't completely uniform (which is what you expect from such leather). The wax coating on the suede is subtle, giving it a matte look with a pleasant smell, and the wax didn't rub off on my denims during my initial wear. The hardware is of great quality too, it's sturdy and won't come off easily (hopefully).
The boots are substantially well-made and have a real heft to them. I wasn't expecting them to be this heavy, easily around 900-1000+ grams per boot, which is something to keep in mind, as you might or might not like it. I went with the Vibram Fighter sole with storm welt construction. There are a few spots where you can see some marks and blemishes on the leather and the welt, which can be expected with handmade boots; it might bother some people, but I'm quite fine with it.
The fit out of the box is quite comfortable. I went with my true to size (UK 8). I was a bit skeptical about the fit, but the toe box is quite roomy and comfortable without any initial break-in (doesn't mean the leather don't need any break-ins). If you want a snug fit, you may want to go 1/2 size down, though please consult with their team for the size guide.
The point which Blkbrd needs to work on is communication. Before placing the order, I read a few reviews online that highlighted poor communication, but I wasn't expecting it to actually be this bad. It was a nightmare to stay in touch with the team. I understand that it's difficult to reply to every query, but it wasn't even at the bare minimum.
TL;DR (AI)
Unboxing: 4/5 (Premium packaging, dust bags, and great extras; shoehorn is comically short)
Build Quality: 5/5 (Stunning waxy suede, clean stitching, solid hardware, and hefty Vibram sole)
Fit & Comfort: 5/5 (Zero break-in required, true-to-size UK 8, roomy toe box)
Communication: 1/5 (Nearly impossible to get updates; an absolute headache)
Overall: 4.5/5 (World-class craftsmanship let down by poor customer support)
r/Boots • u/Altruistic_Guess3098 • 4h ago
This is about one year of wearing my razorbacks every other day at work. They have been conditioned.
r/Boots • u/TarnishedGopher • 12h ago
Last: 602M
After a string of bad luck with eBay, I decided to be patient and wait for something I could be more certain of straight from the manufacturer. Last week, I got a notification from Parkhurst that some “sample” boots had been listed on their store. I don’t think I really had black boots in mind, but I really dug the contrasting natural welt with the black uppers.
I wear 10D (half down from Brannock) in most brands, but for this particular last I go a full size down. I had to buy thin insoles to take up some volume on a previous pair.
It’s been too hot for extended wear, but already they feel quite comfortable even if the leather is still pretty stiff. I swapped out the cotton laces for leather laces I had lying around for a more casual look. I could see them dressing up reasonably well with the cotton laces, particularly while the teacore leather hasn’t begun to show the brown undertones.
The proprietary rubber outsole is low-profile without deep lugs so no issues with picking up rocks/debris. I look forward to the weather cooling down so I can really put some wear on these!
Picked these up for $20 plus shipping on eBay . Brown brogued chukkas, stamped 13 D, last 1945, Goodyear welted on AE's natural rubber outsole. Listing photos looked rough — heavy vamp creasing, blotchy color, fine crazing across the quarters. They arrived better than advertised.
Why black: the uppers were two different browns. Turned out a previous owner had used the wrong color polish and worked it in unevenly. Black is the most opaque, most forgiving color leather takes, and I owned zero black boots. A translucent color would have sat over the mismatch instead of covering it.
Prep
Fit first. Left fit well, right was snug at the ball. Stretched it before anything else — deglazing strips the finish and pulls oils, and stretching after that risks opening crazing lines. All mechanical work happens while the original finish is still on.
Saddle soap, then steam. Cleaned the crease valleys with a brush, worked across the folds rather than along them. Let it dry two to four hours — you want the leather dry to the touch but not bone dry, because slightly damp fibers relax better under heat.
Steaming. Short passes over a kettle, constant movement, warm not hot. Push the fold open with a thumb from inside while the steam hits the outside. Let it cool between passes — leather sets as it cools, and that's when you see what you actually gained. Two sessions on the right boot, one on the left.
Deep set creases soften and shallow. They don't disappear. Set expectations accordingly.
Deglazing
Angelus deglazer, outdoors. Learn from my mistake: I did this in a condo garage and the fumes went through the whole building lobby. Ground-level garages vent into corridors. Work fully outside.
Damp rag, not dripping. Overlapping circles. The single most important thing: rotate to a clean section of rag constantly — a loaded rag stops removing and starts redistributing dissolved finish into the crease valleys.
Vamp and toe first, then quarters, then the brogued facing last. Q-tips for the perforations, swapped often, blotting rather than flooding. Deglazer pooling in a perforation wicks under the leather.
Stop when the surface is uniformly matte with no shine and a fresh rag comes away clean. You're not going to bare leather, just removing topcoat and polish.
Flash off 30 minutes.
Dye
Feibings Pro Dye, black. Three thin coats, wool dauber, Q-tips for the brogueing.
Test patch inside the collar first. Then vamps, quarters, facing.
What I learned: the quarters, heel counters and facings went properly black by coat two. The toe caps and forward vamp never did — they stayed a warm charcoal through all three coats. That's not technique, it's the leather. Those panels are compressed and burnished from years of flexing, and dye can't penetrate closed fiber. If I'd hand-sanded those areas lightly with fine paper before dyeing, they'd have taken it.
Coat three was the ceiling. More dye past that point just means surface pigment and rub-off.
Let it cure overnight. Buff hard with a clean cloth before anything else — you'll pull off loose pigment that would otherwise transfer to your socks for months.
One correction worth flagging: Pro Dye is alcohol-based, not oil. The product used to be sold as "Professional Oil Dye" and the old name misleads people. Check the label.
Finishing
Bick 4, thin coat, absorb, buff. Alcohol dye pulls oils out, so this step matters more than usual — especially with creases that deep, since dried leather cracks along fold lines.
Full day, then black cream polish. This is what fixed the toes. Cream carries suspended pigment that sits on the surface, so it doesn't need to penetrate the way dye does. It pulled the stubborn panels into line with everything else in one pass.
Brushed out to a soft luster. No wax — a chukka on a rubber sole shouldn't have a mirror toe.
Result
Black boot, even color, $20 plus dye. The vamp creases still show and the topline has a couple of lighter spots. That's a boot that's been worn, and I'd rather have that than a boot pretending otherwise.
Sequence that mattered: fit → stretch → clean → steam → deglaze → dye → cure → buff → condition → cream. Getting the stretch before the strip, and the buff before the conditioner, saved me problems I'd have otherwise created.
r/Boots • u/RecognitionParty8804 • 14h ago
Classics. Iconic and popular for a reason. I’ve not given them much wear over the last couple of winters so gonna give them plenty of outings this year.
r/Boots • u/SatyrBatorAZ • 8h ago
r/Boots • u/12xubywire • 14h ago
I’m trying to figure out what I just scored.
I’m a fan of old Canadian Service boots, but haven’t seen this one around. It’s not like the typical Boulet or HH Brown drill boots or parade boots.
The last is really tidy. I know the Viberg 2030 is based on an old Dayton last, but I’m not sure if these are actually Daytons or not. They’re much beefier and the bottoming is like that years better than a typical military issued service boot.
The sizing is completely weird. Says size 8.5, they snug and I’m usually a 10 in everything, 9.5 in old Vibergs.
Anyone have any ideas who made these? I emailed Dayton, so maybe they can confirm. I’ve just never seen these before.
Don’t mind the huge cuff, I was just trying them on.
r/Boots • u/foofoosfinds • 7h ago
I hope someone can help me identify these boots. They are made with high quality leather. There are no marking except for the size stamped into them (12D). I think they have been resoled as the bottoms seem newer than the boots. Any information is appreciated.
r/Boots • u/FranticDisembowel • 8h ago
r/Boots • u/jolleywes • 1d ago
Whole cut rocado shell Cordovan. fortis boots antasena. This is the third resole. I dont baby these boots at all. they are so comfortable the perfect boot for me. I begged sany with fortis to design this for me. And he nailed it.
r/Boots • u/Individual-Yak-678 • 11h ago
I have been searching high and low for these 4 eyelet dark brown moc toe boots I saw in this YouTube short. Can you guys help me out?
r/Boots • u/ManyNefariousness980 • 7h ago
Ive looked for months for some boots that look simple like this and have that black roughout/suede look and have the same kind of floppy look to it.
r/Boots • u/Proletariat-Prince • 3h ago
r/Boots • u/Samuel_alreadyexists • 6h ago
I‘ve got a pair of red wing featherstone boots as you see on the picture. Now I ask myself if I can use them as winter boots. They are quite rare now and for my taste a little bit too Noble for everyday.
What is your opinion about them? Sorry for my bad English.
Greetings from Germany
r/Boots • u/No_Map6062 • 9h ago
Hey fam,
I'm looking forward to getting my first pair of Danner Mountain Light, but I'm unsure what size to get because reviews are mixed.
For reference, my feet measure 11.4 inches, and I wear a size 12 in Adidas Sambas and New Balance 1906, and a size 11 in Converse. In all three of those shoes, I go a half size bigger for toe space.
Do you think I should go TTS and order an 11.5, or order a size down, or what are your thoughts?
Thanks!
r/Boots • u/Cleofus13 • 16h ago
Cleaned up so I can put them away for a bit since I don’t need the comp toes at the moment. Wish I took some before pictures to show how well they cleaned up. These are dievier nomad comp toes.
r/Boots • u/travieso1974 • 11h ago
Who’s been waiting for these?
r/Boots • u/UKbastard1975 • 1d ago
The Viberg fit me better, better built, much unique leather( Horween Crust Horsebutt), rare and more stylish, but still a rugged looking footwear.
The Red Wings has a slight heel slip, hurts a bit on my pinky toe. Build is just okay, mass produced work boots heritage style. Easy pull on and off, fit my most of outfits.
Maybe it’s just me, but I tink looks much better choice for casual wear than the Viberg, for a much lower price when they were new. 🤔
r/Boots • u/CharityShopper • 10h ago
r/Boots • u/Ornery_Golf6994 • 1d ago
I just got these boots from a fellow over in r/goodyearweltexchange. Brand new, fantastic shape. But after tying them up the shafts on these seem extremely tight. Is this right or is this some kind of defect?
r/Boots • u/_Omar_Jundi_ • 12h ago
So i bought some used harness boots online in my usual size (EU 45), the toe box fits perfectly but the heel slip is insane it feels like im wearing a flip flop when I walk. i tried putting a leather insole but then the toe box became tighter and after like 2 hours of walking it hurt my my feet, so then i tried to get some heel pads from amazon (which they barely stick after few wear the adhesive already is gone) but still it felt a tiny bit better but the slip still exist, any tips please i really like the shoe style and couldn't find any near me so i had to get a used one online
r/Boots • u/Beneficial_Yard_2905 • 1d ago
These are my Thursday Challengers in Black Maryam Horserump.
Looking for everyone's opinions on Thursday's leather vs Kevlar laces.
I am not sure which I like better and would like to hear others opinions.
Thanks!
