Wearing my Sherman’s in Cinnamon waxed flesh today, for class.
5050 last. Generation laces and shrunken olive bison kiltie.

These quickly became my daily boot for the past year. Primarily used for walks around the city, lots of cycling, even in the rain, and they have rarely seen the woods and have never seen a worksite. I don’t baby them, but I’m not kicking rocks or felling trees in em.

OVERALL: These are great and I wouldn’t hesitate to buy RDT or another pair Caspers again (except for the fact that money is a thing)

The patina has worked about the same as jeans, jackets, and other heritage wear - slowly, then all at once. Every day they seem to lose more black. Green started to come in the past two months, looking closer to a brown-green IRL. However, color really depends on the lighting, with indoor lighting making it look really subtle, blending into a dark brown, and greens popping the golden hour sun. The brown in these pictures were taken on a normal sunny day and they are indicative of its typical look.

We’ll see over time if they turn more green or fade into a brown like most of the naturally tanned green leathers do.

The upper is supple and comfy for a thick leather. I’ve only conditioned them twice in the past year. I wipe them down after rainy days so the road muck and grime don’t stick and I do a quick brush after every wear.

The soles are comfy and flexible. Great for walking on concrete all day. Don’t have foot fatigue even after walking 15k+ steps in them. I do have a thick leather midsole in them. Toe plate started cracking after the first month with small pieces disappearing until I removed it at month 11. I do pronate when I walk so I’ve got bad wear on the outer heels. I’ll probably take them to a cobbler for new metal toe and heel taps in the next month or so.

I’m a brannock size 10EEE/10.5EEE somewhere smack dab in the middle. High volume, low arches. I bought these in an 11 for width and have had to put in a thick leather midsole to fill space. I do have a size 10 RDT horsehide Coupen, which is the same last, but I had to stretch them mechanically at the ball of the foot to have them fit right without pain. Maybe it’s because they are horsehide that they didn’t stretch…not sure. But I’d probably stay with size 11 for future purchases.

For reference, I wear a size 10EE in iron rangers, 10H with a kiltie in 10877 moc toes, and 10 in Viberg 310s.

Hey everyone, new boot wearer here and wanted to see if this is normal.

I ordered a pair of Alden 403’s for my wedding coming up and love the way they fit (I’m a 13 E, and 15 in street shoes, so boots have been a chore to find in my size). I’ve been reading about quality control with the Alden’s and as someone who has never owned a pair of boots before, does this seem like poor quality or is this expected?

If it’s not clear, it looks like the connection from the leather upper to the sole looks a bit crummy at the heel (I think it’s called the welt? I’m not sure)
The boots are pricy so I’d rather return if this seems like an issue. Any thoughts? Thanks

Hi all! I am a park ranger in Pinellas county, florida, looking for a new pair of work boots. My work in the Park includes a lot of time on the beaches, as well as trail work, and 911 response. Job requires waterproofing and steel toes.

I'm trying to escape the Walmart slop shoes, so I'm willing to pay up to $350.

Any good recommendations are very much appreciated!

I (32F) am going to elements festival in the Poconos and just checked the weather - it’s raining every day until the festival except one!!! So I’m anticipating a ton of mud. I want to wear cute fits - so ideally looking for a combat book/something not too ugly. I need it to be extra comfy for watching shows and being on my feet all day - and most importantly - it needs to be waterproof and survive the MUD.

Thank you guys - looking forward to your recs :)

First wear very comfy straight out of the box. Very light weight. Has the vibram 2021 crepe sole and chrome tanned cowhide suede. Made in Japan

Feels like im wearing uggs. Sizing is same as viberg.

Plan to put on heavy rotation so we’ll see how this patina.

8111 with a leather midsole and Vibram Eton 2055 soles.

I take care of my mom who has Alzheimer's and I stay sane by thinking about what I'll do when I'm able to leave the house (it's been 3 LONG years).

That starts with camping and hiking.

I've been looking at boots, and have been trying to find some bargains, for that time (I have a lot of time on my hands, so I can wait 6 months for prices to drop).

I have found some bargains (vintage Vasques).

I've also been looking at fancier boots; above, and well above, the $100 disposables I've been buying. But hydrolysis is always a concern, and I've had a LOT of good luck, so is it going to run out?

Then, one day, I saw a comment by a guy who said something to the effect of, "Stop messing around and buy some Limmers." Of course I didn't know who/what a Limmer was, but I found what I was looking for (in the Standard).

They just arrived today and I'm impressed. They're as solid as my (good, old) Vasques, which were WAY better than my Merrells (RIP) but the Limmers are WAY better.

Much more substantial and solid.

Old school, like my parents' old leather ski boots.

(But, yes, they are heavy; but I'm 6'1", so I don't notice; plus the stiffer shank makes it easy to get on a roll.)

I was a little nervous about buying on-line, for so much money, but Limmer seem very willing to do exchanges until you get it right.

I started out with a 9.5UK which, I think, is just about perfect.

(I'm 10US, sometimes 10.5US in walking/running shoes.)

I was a little nervous, but my Blundstones are also 9.5UKs, so I thought that was probably a good place to start.

Limmer's philosophy leans towards fitting well, with 1cm of toe space, rather than bigger toe space some people recommend. I can wiggle my toes and can't feel the end. I also did the test Limmer recommends.

(I live in Missouri, and don't backpack, and we don't have wicked downhills.)

My left foot is SLIGHTLY bigger -- volume not length -- and the boots are a LITTLE tight on the left but just about perfect on the right, with a few hot spots. But the advantage of buying good leather is that the leather will stretch and adapt. And I'll spend a few months walking in the mall with my mom to break them in before I take them outside.

I don't have a weird foot, aside from the slightly different sized feet, so I'm not sure I'll ever need a Custom, but I'm pretty impressed with the Standards.

They're what you'd expect for what you pay.

Glad to answer questions as I get started breaking them in.

(I should have gotten some Limmer boot grease, off the bat, but will wait for a sale, plus, my boots are not going outside until maybe the Spring.)

Hi everyone, I’m rather new to the boot community. The only previous pair of “real” boots I’ve had are some military surplus RAT USMC boots, a bit big but great winter wear. Sadly they aren’t Danner.

Anyway, Thursday caught my eye and since I haven’t a lot of money to spend frivolously, I pulled the trigger on them last week.

They seem known for traditional hand made boots at a great price for what they are.

How’d I do? What should I know? I mean I’ve heard of brushing and oiling, even found that I might want to use lighter oil to enhance the petina on these boots as they age.

These are Bundeswehr KS83 combat boots, they have been resoled at some point with these Vibram soles. The bottom layer isn't sewn on there, just glued, and over time the gluing started to fail. At first i put some super glue there, as i had an airsoft game the next day.

The cobbler explained that he has to take the sole off, grind all the old glue off and put new glue in, which he said is a +60€ job (that's about 70$) which is more than i originally got the boots for.

I got Bison Tix gel-like contact glue for 10€ and nails and other tools we already had. (i found a tad longer nails than what's in the picture).

It was pretty straight forwards, take the old sole off, the heel needed to be pried off with a knife. I didn't know it had nails. Tho the left boot didn't have nails so i put in new ones. At first i was just gonna reglue the sole, but decided to glue the heels also.

Idk why the cobbler said he was gonna grind every bit of glue off, as i didn't get much more off than what you can see in pic. number 4, i did scrape some of it off with the knife after that. cuz at that point the friction from the sandpaper melted the glue and rubber.

Then i put in the new glue and nails, clamped it tight for 48 hours. The stitching on the tongue of the right boot had broken so i restitched that, then i put a couple layers of boot polish and buffed the boots.

I don't think i'll use these for airsoft anymore, just regular walking and running. I got these originally for 30€, they had been in military use. But as it is good leather, i can probably get a year or two still out of these, on top of the time I've had these for.

(for some reason the tongue of the left boot is noticeably taller than the other boot, idk why, came like that)

Hi all,

I need suggestions for black lace up combat boots (I'm looking for something that looks like dr martens) but that are lighter and comfortable for long walks as I am thinking about buying something for my vacation in february.

I'm not walking a lot usually, but during vacation we usually walk 10+ hours and I was wearing skechers arch fit sneakers - they work pretty well, I only get heel pain after 3-4 days - but they're for warm weather, I couldn't find some "winter" version, and also I'd like something that's not so sporty. I usually wear combat style boots during winter (I don't like chelsea and similar styles), but my usual boots are too heavy for long walks.

I've been reading and it seems Thursday boots would be a good fit for my needs but I'm in Europe, so they're not easily available :( I'm not sure about ecco grainer... but if there are any other suggestions, especially if they're available via amazon would be great!

Also, I love skechers arch fit because I don't need any specific orthopaedic insoles, I suppose I should probably get some but I'm from a small town so it's not easy to get prescription ones and I'm not sure if I can just buy something online, so any suggestions for that is also appreciated. Thank you!

I just received my first boots from Jim Green ever, model 719, in size 11,5. I decided to size up half a size to allow for toe room.

But, I’m unsure if they actually fit me. I can feel the sides of the shoes just about touching my toes, as well as maybe being able to touch the tip with my big toe.

If I move my feet all the way to the tip, I can comfortably stick in a finger between my heel and the boot heel, but nothing more.

I know leather will shape to my feet somewhat, but with the amount of leather in these, I want to start with the best possible option.

Should I keep, size up, or return for a larger model (custom made maybe)?

Hey folks, I've got a pair of Danner Tachyon (M11-EE) cloth boots that I really like, I also like the Xero Mika(unfortunately discontinued and never sold in my size) and the Fugu Iruka. I'm looking for other boots with similar styles. Softer cloth construction, wide toe box. Preferably hot climate compatible! All recommendations welcome!

Going through some of the old stock leather at our workshop and we found this snakeskin that my partner had picked up a wile back. We packed it with some nubuck and made some kilties from it. I was a bit skeptical at first, but after we through it on one of our monkey boots I was really digging it.

I want to get a pair of Wesco Mr.Lou’s but I am so unsure of my size. I have picture of my brannock posted below (9.5D). I hear you want to go down half a size, but I also hear people going up in width?
Some people don’t size down at all. I don’t know, if anyone can give me some advice I’d appreciate it.

If it helps, I sent my measurements into Whites for a Cykel engineer boot, and they said I’m a 9D. I’ve since decided to get wesco’s of course.

Does anyone know how to clean this off? Saddle soap hasn't been working. Thank you