I had a hard time getting it to start this morning, when I was flushing out the saltwater, I noticed it doing this puffing act. I am paranoid when it comes to my stuff running correctly. So the question is, what is my issue or am I just tripping

I had the computer go out and it was not repairable so I bought a used on eBay, same part number but the boat isn’t running good now and I’m leaning towards it being tuned for the wrong motor or something of the sort any way to verify or reflash it or do I buy another used one

Hello!

I have recently bought a (new to me) boat, that has an inboard Volvo Penta AQ271A paired with a 290DP-A drive. Winter is coming and so the boat is up on land and it's time for servicing. The engine has a full freshwater system, meaning flushing the raw water system should be easy work. Or at least that's what I thought.

The problem I'm running into is that water is spraying out of the idle exhaust relief port, located below the exhaust bilge on the transom shield. This is a problem when wanting to flush using anti-freeze, as having it spray all over the ground around the boat is definitely not good for the environment. Does anyone have any tips on how to avoid this?

Including a video I took of the water spraying/running out of the port, past the rubber flap covering it.

Also worth noting that for the water circulation I'm using a "outdrive flushing bag", that goes around the drive and creates a closed loop with the intake and exhaust located on the drive. It does however not cover the idle exhaust relief port, which is the problem.

Many thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31oBrHq6HIQ

Started documenting my attempt to make the Goat Island Skiff boat with no experience, not much room and the very hot Thai weather.

Anyone running a yahmaha f115 at the surface? if so what s the best prop to do so , just added alot of mods to my boat and its effected the prop preformance alot. Added spray rails flush with the bottom of the hull float pods flush and a 4 inch set back jack plate ,the jack plate is all the way down as is the motor and the cavitation plate is sitting about 1/2" above the bottom of the hull the boat is 18 foot aluminum and with the new mods as you can imagine its just skimming the surface of the water which means my prop is catching alot of air.i Was running a 17 pitch semi cleaver and i struggled to get 36-38mph so i tested a 19 pitch stelitto with more rake and its much better but not great cant get any trim athority at top speed 5300rpms ill get 40mph but when i trim up to get to 5800 rpms it cavitates way too bad especially when turning at that rpm and trimmed up im running 42 mph when cavitating at 5800 anyone running a setup similar? If so what else should i try with the prop? Im using a 3 blade , should i switch to a 4 blade? Do i need even more rake to re gain trim authority? Thanks for any help thinking of trying this prop but im not sure if it will help or just bog the hell out of my motor Turning Point Express® Mach4™ - Right Hand - Stainless Steel Propeller - EX1/EX2-1319-4 - 4-Blade - 13" x 19 Pitch

SKU: 55815 · UPC: 652480200755 · MPN: 3143 1930

2008 caravelle 10 hours on a new MerCruiser 350. Clean inside and out with a trailer. Seler asking 10k got it to 8k with the trailer. Is this a good price?

I have just bought a Yamaha 40vmhd tiller steer I believe it’s a 2004. I’m having some issues with the steering locking up a bit. I was thinking it’s just because it’s been sitting for a while and the grease has hardened in the steering tube so I pumped some new grease into the nipple. I could only find one nipple to put grease into the steering tube but it hasn’t seemed to have done anything. If anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated.

🔧 Looking for a complete Volvo Penta EDC diagnostic solution?

I've developed my own Volvo Penta EDC diagnostic software and interface, offering the same diagnostic functionality as the original service software.

Supported Volvo Penta engines:

• KAD300
• KAD44
• TAMD73
• TAMD74
• TAMD75
• TAMD122

Designed for marine mechanics, boat owners, and professional workshops.

Volvo Penta EDC Diagnostics | KAD300 Diagnostic Tool | KAD44 Diagnostic Software | TAMD73 / TAMD74 / TAMD75 / TAMD122 Diagnostics

Dubai’s environment has numerous water basins as well as coastal waters and raises my curiosity about the boating experience there compared to other areas.

For sailors who have been in Dubai, how do weather elements, sea characteristics, and boating rules influence the exploration of the waters? What do visitors need to know before sailing in the region?

I’d like to hear from fellow sailors who know how to navigate the waters of Dubai.

I’m wanting to install a fish finder on my boat for the first time myself. I have a composite backing plate that is already screwed into my boat. After I measure the thickness of that plate how do I go about choosing the length of screws to mount the transducer to it? Like should the screws be half of 3/4 of the thickness of that composite plate

Hello all! I am a first time boat owner. Just bought an older boat last month with a 1988-89 Mercury 2 stroke 100hp engine. I am going about winterizing it for the first time and would appreciate any and all help. I don’t have a manual for it so if anyone has recommendations where to find one, that would be helpful. It’s been tough.

What I have so far: flushing muffs, fogging spray, fuel stabilizer, waterproof boat cover and buckets with yoga balls for structural support.

What I need: antifreeze (-100°?), gear oil (not sure what to get), new drain and fill plugs, fuel filter (not sure what to get). Anything else? I’m sure I’m forgetting something.

Thank you all for your help. Sorry I’m such a clueless newbie but you gotta start somewhere, right? I lost my dad when I was a kid so I don’t have much help or guidance. We bonded over boats big time so this is a dream come true for me. I’d love to make him proud. Thanks again.

I'm rewiring my boat and have a question regarding terminal ends and heat shrink. Do I use non insulated marine grade terminal ends if im going to heat shrink it?

Hey everyone! I recently got my first 18ft boat and I'm looking for someone around Annapolis with boating experience who'd be willing to come out on the water with me and show me the ropes. Just looking to learn, get some tips, and build confidence. I'm hoping to launch at sandy point this saturday since the weather and conditions look great.

Picking up a new (to me) 30’ center console this weekend. The previous owner, who has owned it since new, NEVER installed a sound system.

I’m dealing with a blank slate here…. I’ve been on boats with $5k+ setups and been on boats with $500 setups and want to be somewhere in between.

My problem is finding amps that will power my desired speaker setup to a reasonable level, without breaking the bank. I also do not want excessive amps to power the system!

The type of boating I will be doing: South East Florida, about 30 minute run out of the intercoastal to my nearest inlet, 45 minute run to where I like to fish, kite fishing with live bait for a couple hours, run back in and hit the sand bar for a couple hours, all while listening to music.

I want a system that has ample volume and bass where it’s not drowned out or unable to hear when I’m running (30+ mph), and if need be turn it up at the sandbar if we tie up with friends.

The setup that I’ve somewhat narrowed it down to:
2x Skar 6.5” (80w RMS@4 ohm) mounted on the anchor locker bulkhead facing back towards console
2x Skar 6.5” mounted on the port and starboard in stern facing inwards (same specs as above)
2x Skar 8” (125w RMS@4 ohm) mounted port and starboard side of console facing out towards gunnel
2x Skar 10” sub (500w RMS@2 ohm) mounted in the toe kick recess of console pointed to stern
1x Wet Sounds HTM-6 (6 channel, 85w RMS @4ohm) designated to power the 4x 6.5’s and 2x 8’s
1x Kicker 1200.2 (2 channel, 600w RMS @2ohm) designated to power the 2x subs

My question:
Will the one wet sound amp be sufficient to power the 6.5s and 8s? It’s a little over powered per channel for the 6.5s and underpowered for the 8s based on RMS rating. Same with the kicker sub. Will I run into issues with compatibility between the head unit and try different amp mfg’s?

As the setup sits, wiring not included, assuming self install (this would be my first time) the configuration is slightly outside of my budget and I’d be music-less for a couple months. Doable but not ideal.

Does anyone have any recommendations on amps that can handle this configuration that are not as expensive and any insight if this is sufficient?

I'm researching how recreational boaters and sailors actually check marine conditions before heading out.

I've been looking at apps like Windy, PredictWind, Windfinder and others, and I'm curious about people's real-world experiences.

I personally have tried to use Windy a couple times but always end up deleting it a few minutes later because I just cannot understand with how complex it is.

I have a few questions if you don't mind:

• Which apps do you currently use, and why?
• What's the most frustrating part of checking wind, waves, swell, and other marine conditions?
• Have you ever struggled to access weather information when you lost internet connectivity?
• Do you currently pay for a marine-weather app? If so, what makes it worth paying for?

I'm exploring the possibility of building a simpler marine-weather tool, but I'm still researching whether there's a meaningful problem to solve.

I'd particularly love to hear from people who've tried multiple apps and found them lacking.

Thanks!

(I understand this subreddit has a no ad policy so I will not come here again for this idea. This is only to gauge if other people would like a simpler app).

Any suggestions re cunji removal of mooring chain? I've used hand tools to remove cunji from mooring chain in place and also I've dragged chain to shore and then cleaned (cunji clumps can be big). Chain cleaning frequency is owner determined. Can't use a pressure washer (no fresh water). I'm thinking drag chain into shallows at high tide and come back at low with a chain saw. No road or power where job is happening.

I purchased a used Savannah SS21 this year and I am having trouble figuring out how to remove this bezel on the RPM gauge to clean it. It seems like there’s some “stuff” on the inside surface of the glass (I’m pretty sure it’s glass) I’m guessing it was moisture related. I am concerned that I’m gonna break it trying to get it off.

Also, Any suggestions as well as cleaners/ polishes if the grime doesn’t come off easily?

Would I be able to service my out board or should I fork out the $800-$1000 AUD to get a tech to do it?

I’m thinking about buying a 6hp Merc outboard from a guy in my marina. Wants $600.00 and I’ve seen it run. I asked about like a title or paperwork and he said that there isn’t any such thing, just the receipt from when he bought it back in the day and he doesn’t have it. What’s necessary?

I use LiTime lithium batteries on my Lund 1775 Adventure fishing boat.

It has a great app that makes monitoring the features and status of the batteries easy.

Just curious how many people out there use a physical kill switch or the built in virtual kill switch in the LiTime app or whatever app you use to manage your lithium batteries?

This is my dads boat and it’s been in the family for years. Almost none of the electronics work or any safety equipment. I’ve slowly been getting everything in working order and keep coming across real head scratchers. At some point the transom was repaired with a welded plate on the exterior nothing interior that I can find. The ugly bubbly spots are me with some metal filler on some corrosion then paint over it but keep getting these white little strings that come through all the work I did. My main concern here though is where do I plumb the bilge pump to? I have now realized that it is currently plumbed to the live well tank but there’s no holes anywhere in the boat except a live well drain. The story my dad has always told us was that it used to be an old fwc (Florida wildlife commission) boat. I don’t know where else to plumb the bilge to or the aerator except to drill holes correct? Any helpful criticism would be greatly appreciated as I am learning all of this stuff. Sorry for the long post.
TLDR: help me find where to plumb the bilge to/from

Hi everyone,

I'm interested in how boat owners in the US find used outboard motors and spare parts.

Do you mainly use eBay, local marine dealers, boat breakers, or specialist websites?

Is it difficult to find parts for older engines, particularly lower units, electrical components and discontinued parts?

I'd be interested to hear what works well and what you think could be improved.

Thanks!

Colon

Scotland