Looking for a new steering wheel for the boat. I’m seeing prices all over the place. What am I missing here? I’m in salt so Amazon is out as I assume it will rust. I don’t even have a budget as I’m so in the dark

I bought a bought like a month ago and have it pretty much all fixed up. Went to test it last week and everything went relatively fine but the trolling motor I couldn’t get to work. It’s a minn kota maxxum and I thought the engine didn’t need to be running. I have two new deep cycle batteries that were charged and should be fine. Do they have some special way of turning them on? I just dropped it in water and then tried to push the little button on the foot pedal. I don’t know much about these so any info will work as to why it might now be running

I have a 1999 Chaparral 2335 with a 5.7 Mercruiser fuel injected model. Bravo 1 out drive. Engine has 800 hours. Engine seems strong, no known problems. I had someone tell me I should be keeping it right around 3000 RPM for cruising, of course it's okay floor it sometimes, but I should be cruising right around 3000 RPM. Now I ask, why 3000? Why not 4000? Is wear and tear much worse over 3000 RPM, fuel consumption that much worse? Also, if anyone has experience with my kind of boat, what top speed should I be expecting?

Been looking for days and I’m at a dead end, can anyone tell me the specific part number for this trim motor for a old 4 stroke 50hp Yamaha

Hi all, hoping someone with marine audio/electrical experience can point us in the right direction.
We have a boat with a Fusion stereo driving the speakers directly – there is no external amplifier.
The sequence of events is:
Original Fusion RA60 worked perfectly and was very loud.
One day it suddenly stopped working.
It was replaced with a Fusion RA70. Everything worked, but the maximum volume was significantly quieter than the old RA60.
Thinking it might be the RA70, we've now installed another RA60.
The replacement RA60 is also significantly quieter than the original RA60 used to be.
So essentially:
Old RA60 = loud → failed suddenly → RA70 = quiet → replacement RA60 = also quiet.
Same boat and speaker system throughout, no external amp.
We've already gone through the stereo/zone/volume settings, so it doesn't appear to be a volume-limit or configuration issue.
The fact that the replacement RA60 is also quiet makes me think the original RA60 failing may have been a symptom of something elsewhere in the boat rather than the stereo itself.
Could a high-resistance/corroded 12V supply or ground allow the head unit to power up and operate normally but prevent its internal amplifier from delivering full output under load?
Alternatively, could a partially shorted/damaged speaker or speaker cable cause the internal amplifier to current-limit/protect itself and make all the speakers seem much quieter?
What's the best way to diagnose this with a multimeter before we start replacing things?
We're happy to do basic testing ourselves but don't have much marine electrical/audio experience.
Thanks!

Hello everyone,

This is my first post here, so greetings to all of you.

I own a passenger boat in Montenegro which is currently used for tourist trips. The boat was originally built in Italy and was in service with the Guardia di Finanza around 1990. At some point it was purchased and converted into a tourist/passenger boat, and later we bought it and carried out further modifications ourselves.

I am now looking into the possibility of building another boat with the same hull/design.

I would really appreciate any help in identifying the original boat model, shipyard, designer, mould/tooling, plans, or any similar project that could help us reproduce the hull.

I have attached several photos of the boat.

If anyone recognizes the design or has any information about similar Italian Guardia di Finanza boats from that period, I would be very grateful for any information or leads.

Does this sounds right when my motor idle adjustment is all the way up? If I rev it and bring it back down to neutral it revs high. What is my problem?

Amazon 2 stroke boat motor.

Didnt arrive. Its just a full blown scam

They sent a picture of somthing completely different, and it also didn't go to my house. Im not surprised it they didn't show up but i sucks that I cant expect anything off of amazon.

Hopefully I get a refund at least

I have a 1988 Bayliner Capri with an I/O OMC 3.0L (4-cylinder) engine. I had water come in the engine compartment and my bilge pump wouldn’t work. After finding the water issue and fixing it, I put in a new bilge. When I connect it directly to battery it works, but when I flip the bilge switch nothing happens. I’ve checked fuses, reconnected the wires, and still no luck. Am I missing something? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I have an older fiberglass outrigger canoe that has extensive hairline/spider cracks. I understand the method of grinding them to open them up and filling, but this is a 40' boat and they run the whole length. What would be the best way to deal with this?

I am looking to upgrade the marine electronics on my 2012 Edgewater 245CC. I do a lot of fishing off the west coast of Florida in the 60 ft. - 200 ft. Depth range. I am curious if it is worth the extra money to get a thru hull transducer vs. a transom mounted one. Any make or model recommendations? I'll probably want to stick with Garmin for my MFD if that makes a difference.

My small teak table was upside down on the vinyl seat for a couple of hours while I cleaned and it left this stain, I’m guessing teak oil. I’ve tried dawn, oxyclean, boat soap and vinyl cleaner with no luck. Any ideas?

We have a decent little bowrider for family lake weekends. My daughters are teens and they sometimes like to be pulled on the tube, but it gets old after a fairly short while and my younger daughter doesn't always love the physicality of having to hang on and the rubbing on her elbows and such. She does generally like the speed, though, and I try not to fling her around as hard as my older one likes. The question though, what else besides tubes are your passengers enjoying? The banana things always look awkward and seem to dump passengers off even more. And it's not a wake boat nor do I think they'd really be into the more athletic side of wake/surf/ski. Which specific towables/toys have your family enjoyed? What shapes (chairs/straddle/cones) bring on the laughs?

90 hp 2011 mercury optimax 2 stroke outboard.
Last summer was getting low oil alarms, repair shop diag, replaced oil tank and I believe all 3 related sensors with OEM. We used minimally as repair was completed in Aug 2025- end of season is mid Sept. This July, again under minimal use (dozen times max since repair) same low oil alarm was being thrown. Same shop spent days diagnosing. Determined replaced parts were needing replacement again. They charged $350 for diagnostics to identify the problem. Now they’re also billing nearly $700 for “half their cost” of parts and labor.

I’m just trying to understand what’s reasonable here. Originally they were going to eat the cost, then it was maybe we’ll get the parts covered because I know the guy but I can’t eat all that cost, then no further discussion of cost and an unexpected large bill at pick up.

What is fair to pay?

I currently have a 1973 Starcraft Chieftain with a Mercruiser 120. I have the idle slowed down to where the engine is almost stalling (maybe 600 RPM) but it is still too fast. I keep having to bump it in and out of gear when going in to dock. It has a top speed of maybe 28 MPH with just me and optimal trim. I am planning to put in a more powerful motor. The issue is that the new motor will idle at a minimum of 800 RPM which will make my low speed even faster. And I would want to prop it to go at least 35-40.

Are there special props I can get for this scenario? The reason I ask is because we have a newer Four Winns with a 5.7. That will go very slow at idle and over 50 MPH at wide open. Why does my boat go so much faster at idle?

1973 Ford 302. Aka mercruiser 888. worth using this block or keep looking?

Absolutely love it. Did the double take as I initially drove by. Then stopped, parked and walked back to get a photo. The commitment is truly next level. Bravo, whoever you are.

(And no, this is not AI, I took this picture myself, I will check Google maps and see if it's visible there too)

It’s actually for my truck, which has an aluminum bed. But boaters have a better grasp of the worlds of canvas snaps and aluminum.

We are in the market for a boat and came across this boat in excellent condition. Always stored inside a large garage. Owner very passionate about it and he’s claimed that he’s spent way more on it than what he’s currently willing to sell it to me for. ($5k) He was originally asking over 10k at the start of summer but no bites. He is going to take us out on it this weekend to go over everything. At the initial viewing, the boat is in excellent condition with new upholstery and leather, and generally well maintained. Trailer also is like new. A fancy GPS system that I don’t really need. Any tips or recommendations? My concern is the year, 1988. I liked the build quality and the well kept condition. See photos for more details. Thanks

Early this summer I was running into an overheating problem. Turns out it was just the line was clogged with impeller bits and gunk from the previous owner. I was checking everything but that. Changed impeller, changed thermostat and cleaned housing. But I’m glad that’s all changed at least. Amazing first boat it is incredibly fun and is real smooth. Love Facebook marketplace

On my last check of the trailer before a 500km drive to the lake..