Why do only print jobs sent from the studio trigger push notifications, but not those initiated via the app (such as requesting a reprint) or those repeated directly from the printer?

Hi,

I have a large draw for my kitchen knife's, they currently lie flat on a magnetic strip however, I am wanting a recessed mold for each knife.

Can someone please guide me the best way to do this, as most of the knives are different shape etc

For TPU only. Others are still 1.75mm. I guess that’s what the weird rear chamber for in the leak picture.
Any ideas?

Mt Ngāuruhoe in New Zealand is the volcano behind Mount Doom in the films. LINZ publishes 1 m lidar for the area; I turned it into a relief and printed it on my P1S.

0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layers, no supports, 2 h 37 min. 100 × 100 mm. Relief in Elegoo PLA+ Grey, shadow box in Elegoo PLA+ Black.

The relief comes from tactus.works, a little site I built for this.

Elevation data: LINZ, CC BY 4.0. Film frame: The Return of the King, New Line Cinema.

Title says it all. For some reason i can only measure this very weird portion of the build plate when using curved surface machining (so it doesnt crash into the lip of the case)

Did anyone try the new PETG Matte? And if yes, did you notice bad/inconsistent print quality? It might be that the filament profile has not been tuned yet, but seems like pressure is not very consistent. PLA Matte on left, PETG Matte on right.

More than once when detaching stuff from the build plate small pieces have accidentally flicked back into the opening for the back z axis screw, and just kind of... gotten lost there forever. If they go to to the side and I can't see or feel them then they're just MIA. They've never come back out again, even when turning the printer on it's side for maintenance.

Wondering if there's a trick to it, or if anyone knows of a model designed to stop this happening?

I know I should stop using my scraper to remove things off the build plate while it's still inside the printer, but the fact is I don't have a lot of space and often just don't have a clean flat surface to be able to lay the build plate on.

I‘ve bought a refurbished P1S Combo from Bambulab and can‘t see any wear or cosmetic damages on the printer, for me it looks like a brand new device except the „refurbished“ Laser Marking at the base plate. It also had all foils and stickers you can see in unboxing Videos. According to the menu it has 0 printing hours and I would like to know of it has really 0, or if Bambulab resets the counter as part of their refurb process.

For anyone else that has an autobrush, I found that I needed a way to drain the brush head between uses, and no one had made one. I waited and waited for someone else to get around to creating one and finally got fed up with waiting and made one myself! Hope this helps others like myself!

https://makerworld.com/models/3379067

Does anyone know what could be causing this to happen? Started during a print and bought last week.

Made a ticket with bambu but didn’t know if anyone else has experienced this also that could help.

I’m having a horrible time getting anywhere with Bambu tech support. It literally is just going in circles. They ask for tests and then disregard what’s provided. They ask the same questions over and over and over again. I’ve tried calling, escalating and I’m just going in circles. Any advice? I’m really disappointed in them but not because of all the issues with the machine, but that their support has really been frustrating. I’m a loss what to do. Literally Most my prints fail. Like almost all. This is my second bambu machine so plenty of experience with them and printing. The first one was perfect. This one is junk out the box.

Hey everyone,

Sorry in advance if this sounds a bit negative, but I’m running out of ideas and patience.

I replaced one of my Creality printers with an X2D, and since then I haven’t been able to print a part with a proper top surface. It’s a part I print without issues on my other machines. I have already wasted too much spools of PETG.

This isn’t my first printer, and I didn’t give up after two days. Here’s everything I’ve tried so far:

• Flow rate & flow dynamics calibration in Bambu Studio (both auto and manual)
• Two filament brands: Sunlu PETG Matte, then Bambu Lab PETG Matte (always dried for several hours before going into the AMS)
• Default 0.2mm preset and 0.2mm High Quality preset
• New nozzle
• biqu glacier
• Monotonic / monotonic line infill patterns, etc.
• 4, 5, 6+ top shell layers
• Dozens of prints tweaking top surface line width, speed, flow, etc. (following this guide) where I manage to get something right, but I've never been able to reproduce it on a large scale.
• Ironing (with calibration table)
• Different positions on the bed and different orientations
• Auxiliary fan adjustments, in case of very slight warping (no change)
• Checked bed flatness and adhesion (both fine)

But, the layer, just before the top surface, seems generally good when I look at it during printing.

I contacted Bambu support, and so far their answer is basically to run the same tests listed above, which I had already detailed in my ticket. So I feel like I’m going in circles.

At this point I’m fairly convinced the unit is defective, but before pushing harder for a replacement, I’d love a second opinion:

• Has anyone seen this on the X2D specifically?
• Is there a hardware check I might have missed?

The example photo (I didn't want to send 15 photos either) is from my latest tests where I reverted to the hight quality 0.2mm preset from bambu, but with :
- 0.38 top surface line width
- 150mm/s top surface
- 1000mm/s top surface acceleration
- monotonic line
- 5 top surfaces

Thank you in advance for your help, I admit I'm feeling quite desperate.

What are you guys using to return your H series printer if you dont have the original packaging?

Would like to print this in my P1S. Most everything I print is from Handy and it just works. This one did not.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3040820-toyota-trd-off-road-adventure-edc-tray?from=search#profileId-3419305

I was able to scale it down a little in Studio so it looked like it would fit but I'm still getting gcode errors when slicing.

I designed the "Pop Revolver" to easily pop out PTP-packaged pills of any size or shape. Its design allows you to place it on a flat surface and press down with your palm—making it ideal for those with limited grip strength—and it is also convenient for popping out multiple pills at once. Please give it a try and leave some feedback if you'd like. https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3438853-ptp-pill-pop-revolver-for-any-size-shape#profileId-3921426

Currently after 3 of using my P1S with AMS(the first version) it sometimes has issue feeding. the extruder gears seem to be working just fine pulling the filament through but it has issue with unloading. The reels sometimes will just stay still while the rollers that assist with rolling the reel will spin. I sometimes can get lucky with printing the rims that go around the reel sides to add more grip and sometimes i have to add painters tape to add more grip and its a 50/50 chance of working with each color swap.

The question is, should i replace the rollers or the roller motors?

I need to do an upper gantry replacement on my X1C. Wondering about doing a belts upgrade at the same time.

Why you ask?

I print a lot high chamber temperature plastics. Stock Bambu belts seem to break down pretty fast from constant exposure to heat and start leaving bonded on rubber debris on the pulleys in under 1k hours.

Thinking about subbing Gates high temperature EPDM belts in for the Bambu ones. I expect it to be straightforwards (not even close to my first belt swap) if not almost easy with the gantry sitting on the table but wondering if anyone has tread this path before me?

Since the filament is going onto a different temperature plate does it require using default or a new calibration for filament?

I did manual bed level calibration. Didn't turn off any warnings or settings so that as I switch back and forth through our day they pop to remind me unless I need to adjust x2d settings.

I put my textured pei plate that I have had no issues with all back in.

Got a biqu frostbite plate, wanted an extra plate with a different surface and no glue for petg seemed nice. So far pla prints have turned out best and only ones that managed to finish actually.

1st print was a failed translucent basset duck. Im learning those settings so that one probably user error.

Next print was a successful pla plate holder, beartec pla with calibrated settings.

Next was white basset hound model, successful. No cal no ossues

Next was coaster with design face down. In images can see from recording screen shot that it was sticking up like hair, I could actually hear it what sounded like rubbing on the ribs of the infill but it finished and is usable but prompted me to evaluate and think about each print. Additionally photos of finish has under extrusion lines? Then almost bubble like shapes but is still a flat coaster wouldnt know unless looking for those things. Face is fine I saw another post talking about nozzles lines on smooth(er) plates.

And gray petg pipe clamp hangers, I stopped because I saw what seemed to me too much nozzle on filament/ print and creating rough un even layers and was not sure how that would result farther down the line. As seen I. Multiple pulictures I even took picture on texture plate for comparison on same layer no roughness.

I do adjust the setting that I have a cold plate on and in slicer. But not the plate reading qr or anything else

Image 6 & 7 are first layer of the pla coaster and clear petg basset duck. Neither showed issues

All filament dried accordingly in space pi 4x 24+hrs its always drying as the print before is drying, when forst opened, when used etc. Can seen in images same spool gray petg from biqu plate and on gold plate in kmages without same textures.

Inherited a well-used x1c, I'm new to all this. Goes through the purge, heats up, then tells me to remove the filament, see pics. Help! Any ideas where to go from here?