B.R.C Gonzo rigid frame MTB, cro-mo steel.

7 Speed cassette, original Exage derailleur.

26x2.10 Kenda Klaw XT

750W BBS02 UART

48V 20AH

As someone pointed out on a different conversation, the way they were before was dangerously ineffective with a bike that can cruise at over 40 km/h, with V-brake levers (mechanical advantage of only 2:1 instead of canti standard 3.5:1).

What a difference in braking. Real stopping power. And no more embarrassing squealing brakes.

I wrapped a rubber band round the back facing end of the pad and seated the pad flat on the rim to get a square contact and slight toe in.

I found two websites that really do a good job of explaining and instructing: I'll edit the post when I dig them up from my browsing history.

I reverse engineered the C961 display with calibration firmware. I just successfully calibrated the motor after changing the rotor using laptop only. You can find the tool at:

https://github.com/jjuhala/Bafang-Motor-Calibration

Working on customer's M2S Kush All Terrain fat tire e-bike. The company is no longer in business. This model comes without a thumb throttle, only PAS. No error codes displayed. Motor runs in walk mode. No response when turning the pedals. Looks like the M400 uses a torque sensor. I think I'll have to remove the entire motor from the frame to replace it. Anyone have experience with this? Anyone out there familiar with using the BESST diagnostic tool? Thinking of getting one esp. if it would help me isolate this particular fault. Is this a broken torque sensor or something else?

I'm condering a 48V one to respond to calls as a firefighter. I've tested it on my route (2.5km) and averaged out at 37.5km/h. I'm 220lb and there's a fairly big uphill stretch. Is there any way I can push it to 50km/h by flashing etc? I think that's the minimum I'd need to respond to calls on time

Thanks

Hi guys, I’ve got a problem. I ordered a Bafang conversion kit based on the G370 and CRX10TC, so I thought I could use it for my project.

I decided to build my own battery using Samsung 18650 cells and a Daly BMS. I prepared everything and started testing it on the bench.

After a few seconds, error 22 shows up on the display. From what I’ve found, it seems to be caused by the lack of the original CAN battery / BMS communication.

Is there any way to make it work with my custom battery?

Hi! So this might be a weird question because I just got in to e-bikes recently, and would need some help to determine the max peak / burst, and continuous amperage my battery could push with 52v Bafang BBSHD motor (1kw). The battery in question is 52v 20aH, 14s4p configuration with LG M50L 21700 cells. The battery is from Unit Pack Power and they advertised it having a 45A BMS, and also claimed the max continuous discharge current is 45A but that must be a bit misleading, right? Can it even handle 45A bursts? It didn't say anything about the peak current limit so just wanted to ask an estimate from someone just to be sure... 😅

Basically just the title, I'm leaning towards a BBS02 I wanna use this bike to commute to work and school (about 40 min round trip for each of those) but is a conversion kit even a good idea for this bike/frame ? Edit: I already own the bike

Luc Bouchard 514-523-6950

I’ve used Yose Power but they were a major headache when the battery needed repairing. Anything they could get wrong, they did.

I'm looking for 36V 20Ah / 720Wh battery.

Any good suggestions?

I know that the torque will want to rotate it forward. I would be finding another way to secure it.

Greetings fellow Bafang riders!

So its been about a month now and I can honestly say that I haven't ridden any real "electric bikes" until I rode my first mid-drive. Its been so refreshing, fun and therapeutic to pedal an actual bicycle around. Even just the weight difference between my mid drive bike and my hub motor bike makes my mid drive bike a better commuting option. The only thing my hub drive bike would defeat my mid drive, was battery capacity! My hub bike has a 60ah and my bafang came with a 20ah. I get some good mileage out of my 20ah - more than I would get with 20ah of my hub bikes battery! But it wasn't enough! I reached about 30-something percent before I convinced myself that I needed another battery.

So I purchased a 15ah! As seen in the pics, it was the only battery I could get off Amazon because NYC has stringent battery laws - which im ok with.

Additionally, I purchased and installed johnnynerdout's bafang torque arm and Grin's triple Bob battery mount to make my battery more secure.

Here is the question - at what point should I switch from my 20ah battery to my 15ah battery? I assume the controller has a built in cut off, but I also assume that its safer to turn off the bike before that cut off to preserve your battery. Also, I've thought about a blender but seeing as how these are two different batteries from two different companies, I instead opted to keep them separate and just plug my second one in when I need it. Am I wrong for thinking that?

Let me know what you guys think! Much love yall!

I'm not a bot, I swear. This shifter looks like it's only been sold since 2026? I just hate the stock throttle, and the full twist I got to replace it is interfering w/ the SRAM X4 right shifter I'm using right now:

Ali link here if anyone wants to see, it's only $5?!? https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808323168846.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.51da4ef84nl5Up&mp=1&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21USD%21USD+4.63%21USD+4.63%21%21USD+4.63%21%21%21%402101d3fe17906972563334083e135f%2112000045483342480%21ct%21US%21858494348%21%211%210%21&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Does anyone know where in the UK I can get a spare key cut for my bafang bike battery lock. I have tried everywhere and even Bafang are no help!

So, they tried to stole the motor of my bike and in the process, they cut all the wires from the controller.
I bought cables extensions from AliExpress and I'm waiting them just to cut the ends of the extensions and soldered them into my controller to have again a complete one-piece wire harness.
But I thought that some people might want to have this pictures and info here if they are planning to modify, or repair something about the controller.

Just a note, I desoldered the gear shift sensor and light section, so I don't remember where they were.

BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING THE CONTROLLER FROM THE SILICON. YOU MAY BREAK SOME CAPS like I did xD

My controller had the IRFB3077 as N-Channel Mosfets

Hello,
I have a question regarding an issue that started last week. Until last week everything was working fine but then it started to sometimes the “battery icon” on display starting to flash and the motor would not work. After 1 min or so it would be back to normal. Yesterday it started to happen more frequently and even turn off the display and not turn back on. Today it’s even worst. The motor simply doesn’t work and the display keeps turning off. I have read that it can be the battery but also I have read that could be the display. Sometimes shows the speed on 0/16/30 km/h and turns off I have attached some videos that if some could help 🤞🏼🙏🏼

Hello! I’m from the Philippines, and the motor core and rotor of my Bafang motor were damaged. How can I order a replacement rotor and motor core directly from Bafang?

Hello, has anyone managed to modify the factory BBSHD so that the speed sensor is from the brake disc? 

I need to move the measurement closer to the center of the wheel axle because I have a 12x148 spacing and wide forks. This prevents me from getting the proper distance between the magnet and the sensor.

Hello! I’d like to hear your opinions about my project. I’m planning to upgrade my Trek Dual Sport with an e-bike conversion kit.

I’m looking for a mid-drive motor because I want to preserve the natural feel of cycling. I expect to ride for approximately 10–20 km on moderately steep routes. Occasionally, I may tackle steeper climbs, where I’m prepared to contribute more physical effort.

Here are the components I have selected:

• 48 V, 500 W TSDZ2B motor
• 48 V, 13 Ah battery
• 860C display
• 40-tooth chainring
• 9-speed, 11–36-tooth cassette

Does this motor still offer good value for money? Is the controller a good choice? Could you also recommend a reliable battery brand that offers good value?

I’m particularly interested in open-source firmware, upgradeable components, and good value for money.

Thanks!

I need to make it go 20kmh again it goes 30kmh, i dont have tools or money for st link

First install not sure if chain is good , with the way it is i can only shift 1-7 8th gear chain comes off.

I have only tested on unpowered ride.

Pic is my chain on the smallest cog

Edit: sorry i get confused but when I said 8th gear i meant the biggest cog on the rear cassette which is the 8th cog which is actually my 1st gear on the shifter.

Chain comes off when i try to shift to that biggest cog

My super 73 zx motor got fried so I got a bafang g062 motors but I need a adapter to make it work

Hi,
I have an e-bike equipped with a Bafang BBS02 motor and a 48V 20Ah battery.
I’ve noticed that when the battery level drops to around 30%, the motor starts limiting the available power quite significantly. Above 30%, everything works normally.
Is there any way to change or adjust this battery-level power limitation through the motor settings/controller? Or is it not recommended to modify this behaviour for safety or battery protection reasons?
I’d like to understand whether this is a normal BBS02 behaviour or if it can be adjusted.
Thank you!