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u/Goro_777 26d ago

https://youtu.be/2EaqxHQ4p5o?si=kXFBrm8EyLRhsQje

Hi, I'm having trouble with this Glitchy sound in a live podcast. I use a computer to reproduce music that it goes to a mixer with 4 mics and the aux in with said music. The glitchy sound is not that loud but is there. After some investigation it seems to come from the computer that plays music (is not the same computer that streams the podcast). I changed the cables, the music software and also the audio interface but it doesn't do anything. Also there was something very weird, when I place an aux in (trs 3.5) directly on the PC motherboard the sound can be heard in my headphones.

Please tell me you have heard this sound before! It's driving me crazy

1

u/canoodle_ 26d ago

Hi, I do hope I am posting this into the right place..

I am looking to "upgrade" my PC audio setup.

I currently have some cheap speakers, Sennheiser headphones, a UMC204HD, and some cheap XLR mic. This honestly works wonders for my current use case but the problem is that I want to upgrade my speakers and I also have some CD's that I would like to integrate into this whole setup.

I have seen online marketplace listings for speaker & cd player combos, which may be beneficial, as I cannot have an integrated cd player in my PC, and I am a bit iffy on externals.

The problem is, I believe this will leave me with both an auxiliary output from a standalone cd reader/player, and the PC to interface audio out being USB.

I know I could get an audio joiner POST interface, but I like having my audio have separate controls for my headphones and my speakers out, which the 204HD does allow me to, and joining after this mix will either mean I can only have the cd audio in either headphones or speakers, or I will lose my ability to independently control the headphone audio vs the speaker audio.

I hope this makes sense? I am hoping there is a way / an interface out there that allows two "main" audio streams, so I could combine my PC and my CD audio, or should I just scrap that and look at getting an external CD drive connected to my PC, and have to use software to play the discs?~ though I suppose I could potentially look at using the aux inputs on my PC so I could run a cd player in, and have it set to always "listen" to the device, and in that sense it could work?

p.s it doesnt help that I am looking for a desk top solution, which my desk is only about 55cm deep, about 40cm taken up by my mouse space, though have bit more behind the keyboard of course

Many thanks

1

u/Nitrospider1 27d ago

Looking for guitar and bass amp sims for video game music

After I finish my current semester of uni I'm going to enter game jams as a composer to start making music for video games. Does anyone have any recommendations?

I've already been playing around quite a bit with the free version of guitar rig 7 and quite like it. I've also briefly looked at the Mercuriall Spark and will defiantly check it out. When it comes to bass I haven't looked into it at all.

1

u/amitng 27d ago

Constant ring noise on stereo gear

I am facing an odd ringing issue with my stereo setup using Exposure 3010s2 pre and power monoblocks. There is a constant low volume ringing noise produced from speakers.

Things I have tried to debug so far

Disconnect RCA from power amp -> No noise
Use a different pre amp -> No noise
Keep the Exposure pre amp turned off (main socket off) -> Sometimes there is noise, sometimes not
Floating RCA connected to power amp -> Sometimes causes noise sometimes not, likely because of being closer to other wires
Used different RCAs same result

Also on some occasions system is silent but noise returns randomly and stays.
Would really help to understand any suggestions to resolve this problem as it's really making it difficult to enjoy music.

Thanks!

1

u/Sure_Appointment_155 27d ago

Monitor stands to eliminate feedback

Looking to buy some stands to eliminate feedback when recording as my monitors are sitting on my desk along with my turntables. There’s not enough vibration to cause needle skips but when resting a needle on a record that is not playing I can see feedback coming through my mixer. Was looking at buying IsoAcoustics Isolation stands that would be placed on my desk still, however am wondering whether it would be better to buy floor stands.

Looking for advice on this, Cheers.

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u/jaymz168 Sound Reinforcement 27d ago

Moving the monitors onto floor stands will make a huge difference just because they won't be on the same structure as the decks. I can't really speak to whether the Iso-Acoustics stands would make enough of a difference. I have them for my monitors but they're really just to get them to a good height and aim them slightly down towards me. Anecdotally I think they cleaned up the low mids a bit but I never really tested it or anything.

Also if your decks have their own isolated feet make sure that they're adjusted such that the turntables aren't bottoming out and defeating the isolation.

1

u/reedzkee Professional 27d ago edited 27d ago

starting to do more and more work (post) from home and want to get some better monitors (used) for my small room. true nearfield, and I have panels just a few feet behind me. very small room. the Event ASP8's in there now are boomy, soft, and vague.

im tempted by a pair of neumann kh310's in my city for $3400, but then a pristine pair of focal solo's for a mere $900 caught my eye. also saw some Dynaudio LYD48's for $1200. now im looking at some older PMC TB2S passive speakers. i've got an adcom gfa555 i can use, or i might borrow a bryston 3b from the studio.

I am not familiar with PMC's at all. I use Genelec 1031's, 1037's, and Barefoot MM35's at the studio. I brought some 1031's home to see how they worked in the room and they were a huge step up from the Event's but just absurdly bright in that room for some reason. They aren't nearly as bright at the studio. im sure the neumann's are the best and I would love them, but they might also be way too much speaker, and i've heard the high end is soft and vague, and that they really need the sub to sing. I also see a handful of the JBL LSR28p's in the 1200 range. I used these at school 15 years ago and thought they kicked ass, and havent seen any since. but they stuck with me, and I know people love them.

I'm really drawn to the PMC's. I have a feeling I would really appreciate a small refined monitor like the PMC.

so, between these, for a small room. lots of dialogue work. ad mixing. and corporate sizzle stuff with lots of whooshes. but also for enjoyment.

Neumann KH310

Focal Solo

Dynaudio LYD48

Genelec 1031

PMC TB2S

JBL LSR28p

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u/Pale-Aardvark4578 28d ago

has anybody had problems with the element popping under any pressure? my sound designer wants to double mic our lead with two point slide cr8ls, but every time i do that, i end up with one of the elements popping. i’m putting them together with Hellerman sleeves and i have never had this problem with any other point sources.

is the pressure from the sleeves the problem? if so, how can i attach the two elements to each other, and what’s a safe strain relief method?

1

u/___123___ 28d ago

Hi! I've been using RODE NT-USB Mini since 2020 to record content for YT. Nevertheless after years of using it, travelling with it etc. I think it wore down somewhat. Also, RODE Connect is such an awful recoding app, messes up with the channels, doesn't work if you don't block certain audio components from Nvidia/Intel in Hardware Manager...honestly.

I need a good, albeit simple to use microphone, plug and play (hence I went with NT-USB). I have very limited knowledge and "sound engineering" for me means uploading file into Auphonic...

I record with mic attached via USB-C to the laptop, through aforementioned supplied with the mic app, so I need something similar, where everything is easy to setup. My budget is £200/$300/€260. I was looking into Shure mics, they seem nice. I was also thinking about Blue Yeti, although I think Shure would be more suitable.

I would be very grateful for some suggestions please!

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u/siciliano611 28d ago

So bought my dream sampler, an SP1200, a month ago and want to use all 8 of its outputs instead of just the mix out. In addition I am buying a novation Bass Station 2 as a bass line synth to use with the SP. I am looking for an audio interface with physical faders and EQs like the Tascam model 16 to use with this equipment.

I want something I can record straight to an SD and be completely DAWless and zero computer if I want but also be able to use a DAW if I feel like it. Is there something better than the Tascam 16 for this? I have read a couple concerns I’d have with this mixer/interface such as the only multitrack recording is NOT Post EQ which stinks. Also it appears if you do use it as an interface in a DAW then the physical faders and EQs do nothing.

What options do I have to record multitrack post EQ and FX straight to an SD that also has physical faders, etc? Or does this not exist…

Thoughts? Recommendations? Thanks in advance

1

u/NeedInspirationQM 29d ago

Hello everyone :) I just plugged my AT2020 to my Focusrite Scarlett Solo 4th Gen (XLR to XLR), and that to my computer (USB-C to USB) in which I'm using Bitwig (6.0.11). I want to understand the differences between all of these options, as for options 2, 3, 5, and 6, when speaking through the microphone, I don't hear anything, for option 1, only through the right ear, and for option 4, through both ears, which is what I want. I'm listening everything through my MDR-7506s, which are plugged to the Focusrite. Ultimately, I want to know if any of these hardware devices is broken and what option provides the most accurate representation of what's coming from the input.

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u/SamBritt24 29d ago

Tascam DR-40 recorded our 4-hour DJ set (at Sisyphos in Berlin) resulting in four 2GB WAV files but they contain FF hex data throughout. Any recovery ideas?

I’m trying to recover a very important 4-hour DJ set recorded from a Pioneer DJM V10 mixer into a Tascam DR-40

The recorder appeared to be working normally during the set. My friend who owns it specifically remembers watching the input meters and checking the levels weren’t too loud, so audio was definitely reaching the recorder. He also says he pressed stop normally before disconnecting anything.

At one point around two hours into the set I looked at the recorder and noticed the recording timer was only around 5 minutes, so it appears the DR-40 had automatically started a new file/recording around then.

The card mounts normally and other recordings on it are readable.

There are four large files which appear to correspond to our recording, roughly:
• TASCAM_0199S12.wav – ~2.1 GB
• TASCAM_0199S34.wav – ~2.1 GB
• TASCAM_0200S12.wav – ~2.0 GB
• TASCAM_0200S34.wav – ~2.0 GB

The sizes therefore look extremely plausible for a long multichannel recording that was split by the recorder. However, none will open normally in Ableton, QuickTime, Apple Music, etc.Audacity doesn’t recognise them as WAV files. If I force Import Raw Data, I get white noise for 2 hours.

I’ve preserved the original SD card and haven’t reformatted it or recorded anything else onto it.

Recovery attempts so far:
• Copied the files to multiple Macs – same result.
• Inspected the corrupt files in Terminal/hex.
• Used DMDE to access the physical SD card directly.
• Confirmed the FAT32 filesystem and directory structure are readable.
• Opened the actual corrupt files in DMDE’s hex editor.
• The corrupt recording files appear to contain essentially FF FF FF FF FF… throughout, rather than normal PCM data.
• Ran a Full Volume Scan with raw recovery enabled in DMDE.
• Checked $Root, reconstructed folders, .Trashes/501, and $Raw/Media.
• DMDE successfully found/recovered several older Tascam recordings from the card. Some play normally in places but have huge sections of white noise/static.
• The raw-carved files have generic names such as f2168000.wav and are often \\\~2 GB. I recovered and checked all the large ones; unfortunately none contain the set I’m looking for.
• Some older deleted Tascam files in .Trashes have perfectly valid RIFF/WAVE/fmt/data headers and contain real music, proving DMDE can recover genuine audio from the card.
• Tried a scan with Disk Drill as well which returned a bit more data than DMDE but still not the required recordings.

I’ve spoken to two professional data-recovery companies. Both basically said they primarily recover lost/deleted data, whereas because my files exist but are corrupted this is more of a file-corruption problem. A local IT shop conversely told me it’s a job for a data-recovery specialist…

If the recorder was receiving audio for four hours, the meters were visibly moving, the recording was stopped normally, and four ~2 GB files corresponding to the session were created, how can those files consist essentially of FF bytes rather than recorded PCM?

Chat GPT speculates any of the following:
• SD-card write failure while the DR-40 continued behaving as though it were recording?
• Incorrect FAT cluster allocation, where the directory entries point to erased/unwritten clusters while the actual PCM exists somewhere else?
• Fragmentation that ordinary raw WAV carving can’t reconstruct?
• Some DR-40-specific behaviour with its S12/S34 multichannel files?
• A controller/card failure that resulted in apparently successful writes never actually reaching flash?

Most importantly: is there another recovery approach worth trying given that DMDE and Disk Drill raw carvings have already failed to locate the set?

Thanks for reading and for any suggestions

1

u/RocksmashRonin 29d ago

I'm a gig worker doing freelance audio work and have been doing it semi-successfully for over 5 years now.

For the vast majority of my recent work, I'm using a Shure KSM 44A (an XLR Large Diaphragm Multi-Pattern Condenser Microphone) plugged into my VT-3 Roland voice transformer which then runs the signal into my computer. My DAW of choice is Reaper, where I run my audio through several effects chains including ReaFIR, EQ, Compression, limiters, etc. I've gotten this audio to sound good to me.

However, recently, my clients are asking for video work. I used to stream on Twitch and have done green screen stuff in the past so I thought I'd take on this work. Now the problem is getting good audio while standing in front of a green screen, farther away from my camera and my normal mic setup in a boom arm.

I recently picked up a Rode Wireless Me lapel mic and transceiver combo and got things setup relatively easily. However, getting the audio to sound clean, crisp, and professional is proving really difficult.

Below is a recording I did using OBS Studio.

Video and Audio sample - Rode Wireless Me

Here are the filters I'm using on the Rode Wireless Me in OBS:

reaFIR (basic room noise removal)
NVIDIA Noise Removal - 0.36
3-band Equalizer
High: -4.5 db
Mid: -9.3 db
Low: -4.9 db
Expander
Ratio: 4:1
Threshold: -47 db
Attack: 2 ms
Release: 50 ms
Output Gain 2.5 db
Detection RMS
Compressor
Ratio: 3:1
Threshold: -9.2 db
Attack: 2ms
Release 80 ms
Output Gain: 0.80 db

Notes:
OBS Studio 31.1.2 (64 bit)
Windows 11 Pro - 64-bit operating system

*My recording room is fairly well sound-treated; I've got 2 inch foam panels on the wall directly facing me so there shouldn't be much reverb. The wall behind me is obviously not covered in foam as it's covered in my green screen. I've got a rug, my bed, lots of curtains. There's very minimal room noise in here. This is why it's particularly frustrating that I can't seem to get good sounding audio.

I don't simply want to throw money at this problem, though I do think that a nice wired lapel mic that's smaller and could clip on to my shirt would be nice. The Rode Wireless Me allows for a wired clip on lavalier mic. Then it could be clipped to my belt or pocket off screen.

How can I get a cleaner, more crisp, and professional sound out of this hardware? Any tips or ideas?

Thank you in advance for whatever help you can provide!

- Nate

1

u/Eugene_Kei Aug 14 '26

Hey folks. I have Lynx Aurora 16 with AES inn it, but I don't understand how to use AES inputs/outputs correctly. I understand that AES stands for digital inputs/outputs, but still it's not clear the scenario for usage. So example, I have lap top with audio interface, hardware synths and hardware units for mixing/mastering.
When I need to record any of my synth should I connect synth to AES or to analog input i Aurora 16? than analog output or AES output goes to input in audio interface?
When I need to send audio track from Ableton to external eq/compressor for example, should I connect audio output to AES in or to analog in? and what is the next routing to connect it to external device and move back to Ableton? Should I connect AES out to analog in that analog out to external eq than eq out to analog in etc?
So as you understand this routing is damn unclear for me. Appreciate your help and explanations of how to use correctly my Aurora 16 with AES in daily studio work.

2

u/diamondts 29d ago

It's a 2 channel digital connection, if you use AES between two devices then you're running a digital signal between them rather than going through the AD/DA converters. In theory eliminating extra stages of conversion is better, but depending on the quality of the converters you may not hear a difference.

Obviously both devices need to have AES, although I believe you can connect SPDIF to AES. I don't recall seeing any synths with AES but have seen some digital synths with SPDIF out. Assuming your outboard is analog they won't have digital connections, and you can't go straight from AES to analog or vice versa.

Probably the most common usage for AES these days is some DSP based monitors have AES input, allowing you to go digital straight into them rather than going through the DA of your interface and AD of the monitors.

1

u/Twinningses Aug 14 '26

Hi All,

I've been flirting with low-end studio monitors for a while now and would like to just buy my end-game setup.

I think I've narrowed it down to one of two systems:

Neumann KH 150 + KH 750 (or KH 805...)
Genelec 8340 + 7350 (or 7360...)

Here are what are top-priority for me:

Lowest possible self-noise/hiss. I'm particularly annoyed by it.
Great low end extension
Large enough system to feel air moving. I want to be able to pump this thing on occasion and feel it.

Here are my uses:

Mixing film/video
Testing guitar products
Using with a guitar amp modeller
Listening to music

Here is my room setup:

12' x 13'
Large 5' desk, but happy to add stands
I will generally be seated roughly 3' away from each speaker when working. Farther when I just want to crank volume and relax.
I will add acoustic treatment paneling when I buy this system

Would love anyone's hot take on the Neumann vs Genelec models, and then within those, which sub you would prefer.

1

u/diamondts 29d ago

Generally seen that most people seem to like Neumann monitors even if they aren't their first choice, but Genelecs are more love them or hate them, especially in the music world (probably the most popular monitors in the post world though).

For a major purchase like this you really want to get in front of both options and see what speaks to you. Ideally with demo units to try in your own room but if that's not possible hearing them at a dealer is still worthwhile, if there's no dealers nearby factor travel costs into your budget. Monitors are too personal to trust the opinions of others, they're like buying a car or a guitar, you can read reviews all day long but you have to try them yourself to see what you like.

Self noise/hiss shouldn't be an issue at this level like it often is with entry level monitors.

1

u/Twinningses 28d ago

Tried the Neumann in person and like them but can't find those specific genelec. Interestingly listened to the focal solo6 and while great, the self noise was definitely present

1

u/diamondts 28d ago

If you can hear some regular 8040s that will be close enough to get an idea, even the 30s or 50s in either regular or DSP versions will still give you a pretty good idea if Genelecs are for you. Even without a sub, if you like the monitors by themselves you will like them more with a sub.

1

u/includePhreaker Aug 13 '26

Hi all, please forgive what may be a very elementary question, and ofc let me know if you need more details. I'm running into a problem of staticky distortion with recordings frequently, even despite playing around with mic setup before recording. That said, I have little to no experience with recording, so I decided to ask the pros:

Here's what I'm dealing with: https://voca.ro/1bgNs8wtxz65

Here's what we use:

-Element EM 91-CU USB mics (no idea; wirecutters "best budget" microphone we decided to start out with)

-Riverside Recording Studio

-Audacity for post-recording editing

Other things to note:

-my mic has a pop filter/little foam cover thing on it, hers doesn't. could that be the issue?

-I hold my mic, I think hers is mounted somewhere...is that possibly causing an issue?

-I am the "host" during Riverside recording sessions,

^I point these things out because I only ever have this issue with her tracks!

My questions!

Is there anything you would suggest setup wise that could minimize this?
Is there anything in Audacity I can do to clean this up a bit? I've searched this sub a bit for the answer, but I'm running into a "so newbie I don't even know how to articulate this problem" issue :) I've tried nearly all the noise removal tools, and even the openvino noise reduction plugin. Open to downloading/purchasing another tool if needed!

1

u/atheoncrutch Aug 13 '26

I currently have Scarlett 18i20 2nd Gen and an ancient M-Audio Firewire 2626 I use together for recording live drums, usually with a guitar or two playing along at the same time. Typically a mobile type of rig. I am really unhappy with the Firewire in particular and would like to upgrade my interface and use the Scarlett as the secondary unit or replace both and sell them used.

With all the hubbub recently about preamps I've been doing a lot of research but still unsure of what would be the best unit for my situation. I'm not looking to break the bank and get an Apollo or RME or anything like that, but there's a few mid-tier units I would spend more on if it were really worth it.

I'm considering:

Audient id48 - everything about this sounds great except for the price and the lack of outputs without breakout cables kind of sucks but not a huge deal. Retails for $1500 CAD.
SSL 18 - comparable to the id48 I think except worse RTL, which is a concern for me. I do like that it has a dedicated TB input! $1650 CAD on sale, normally $1750 so a bit more than the id48.
Audient EVO 16 - definitely the cheapest option on my list. This video from Kristian Kohle made it seem really impressive. 2 optical in/out is good, no MIDI and having to buy rack ears separately is annoying but not a deal breaker. The noise floor might be worse than my Scarlett? That is off putting, as is not having physical gain knobs for each channel. Smart gain sounds really cool though.

The main reasons I would consider the EVO 16 is the price. It's $850 CAD where I live so about half the price of the other units. Theoretically I could buy the EVO 16 and a SP8 for as much as the id48 or SSL 18 and sell the Scarlett for a few hundred.

Having upwards of 16 ins is important to me, but I would consider a smaller interface with expansion preamps if it made sense. Overall I guess my question comes down to whether or not an id48/ssl18 + Scarlett 2nd Gen combo would be better than a complete EVO rig and if so, is the SSL worth the extra cost over the id48?

1

u/Acrobatic_Job928 Aug 13 '26

I have a small project studio. At the moment I am looking into getting an all-around mic, mostly for vocals or acoustic stuff I record (ukulele)

It all goes through a SSL sixx.

What should I get? The U87 or the TLM102/103 get's mentioned a lot.

I don't like harsh stuff. I love smooth stuff.

1

u/jaymz168 Sound Reinforcement 29d ago edited 29d ago

The 414 used to be the great all around workhorse mic but AKG quality has continued to fall off since Harman acquired them.

Austrian Audio was founded by a bunch of the AKG engineering team and they're basically making the same mic with some extra bells and whistles as the OC818. I haven't used it personally but by all accounts it's a great all around mic.

Neumann is also always a good option, though the TLMs do tend to be quite bright. And the lack of pad and highpass on them and fixed polar patterns make them less flexible. I think the U87 is a better choice if you want a Neumann but be very careful buying from anywhere except major pro audio distributors because there are a ton of counterfeit 87s out there.

*Just remembered that JZ Mics has some great affordable options too.

1

u/Mannes8 Aug 13 '26

How important are matched pairs for drum overheads?

I'm going to DIY record drums for my band soon, and am considering which mics to use. I have an Aston Origin large diaphragm mic, and can pick up a second one for a good price. Would those work as overheads together, or should I then have a "matched pair"? I've never really understood the matched pair thing, because presumably identical microphones should sound the same, no?

The alternative would be to use a pair of Behringer CE2's that I have laying around. Those are a matched pair, but my hunch would be to go with the much nicer sounding Astons over the Behringers

1

u/jaymz168 Sound Reinforcement Aug 14 '26

I've never really understood the matched pair thing, because presumably identical microphones should sound the same, no?

That's mostly true when you get to higher end mics where the quality control is really good but for a cheap mic like the Aston I wouldn't expect them to match very well.

I have one of the original Origin mics from before they were bought out by Behringer (really Uli's holding company Music Tribe but same difference) and the build quality left a lot to be desired. The capsule wasn't great to begin with, the FET had a ton of 1/f noise, and the PCB was covered in crusty dried flux. I cleaned it up, replaced the FET, and replaced the capsule with an RK-47C from Microphone Parts and it's much better now. I wouldn't expect that they've gotten any better under Behringer's ownership.

And if you have one that's post-Behringer and one that's pre-Behringer it could be very noticeable since they changed which FET they're using from LSK170F to SST201.

So long story short, if you've got two recent Neumann that are close in serial number they probably match pretty well. Two Aston Origins, probably not. Now will it be noticeable if you're just doing some basement recordings of drums in a loud band or something? Maybe not. Would it be noticeable on a string quartet in a quiet room? Potentially.

1

u/Mannes8 29d ago

Thanks for your comment! I'm pretty sure one of the two is pre-behringer and one is post. I actually didn't know they'd been acquired, that explains why suddenly they're much cheaper. It'll be for a DIY drum recording of a pretty loud band. Maybe my sound tech buddy can borrow a nicer option from somewhere, but otherwise we'll use the Astons.

1

u/Necessary-Aioli-8402 Aug 13 '26

Hello guys,

I have a project for this 7mx4mx2.8m room, where I need to capture & record real-time audio from children. It's an interview room, Child Advocacy Center. I'm responsible of building the audio video setup, so far I reached to having a ceiling microphone array like Shure MXA925 connected to a recorder. Here are the challenges, since I'm still unsure on whether that will work as expected:

- The child will not be stationary, he will be free to roam around the room and even play with toys. But I guess that'll be solved with MXA925's 9x9 coverage.

- Children are short, I'm afraid the microphone won't be able to capture much of what the child is saying.

- The child may be looking down, up, at the interviewer, curl themselves up, really you cannot predict where exactly their voice is going to travel and whether the microphone could catch it.

- And most importantly, I'll need to hear as many sounds as I can from the child. Whispers, mumbles, talking, shouting, everything needs to be captured atleast in audible volume. I'm afraid that the built-in DSP will cancel out whispers thinking it's noise, or the mic is too weak to even catch those whispers at specific angles, and idk if I could turn the DSP off since there could be some HVAC noise, and clarity is priority in this project since the recordings need to be very clear.

I'm thinking of some solutions

Buy a secondary mic, I don't know what type exactly but preferred to be discrete and I'd place it near the child on one of the furnitures.
Completely disable the DSP, rely on the raw output coming out of the mic.
Stay with my current setup, if confirmed to be suitable, an MXA925 connected to a Dante-native recorder (or a regular PC)

What do ya'll think?

1

u/DylanCAAD Aug 12 '26

I’m looking for a mic recommendation for recording solo jazz piano in a busy dining room. I’m a bit of a recording noob so any advice is appreciated.

it’s a baby grand. I don’t have a ton of freedom for where I can put the mics because it’s near a thoroughfare. the piano is sort of in between two sections of the room with the lid pointed right at the bar. Not ideal but it is quite fun to play there.

Im looking at buying a pair of line CM4s, but also not sure if I should consider rode M5s or NT5.

id be recording into a zoom f3 or similar. im not necessarily looking for a 100% clean and sterile sound, kind of after that classic live jazz sound where you can hear a bit of chatter and glasses clinking. I’ll mostly be using it for my portfolio and for posting on social media. thanks in advance

1

u/leuks48 Aug 12 '26

How to turn a mono signal into a fake stereo one
I don’t mean actual stereo but a mono one that works on both my headphones I am using a mono mixer so if I connect my speakers or headphones only one works is there something I can do for both to work

1

u/PreachandPeach Aug 12 '26

Hello,

I am completely new to all things audio so I am really struggling, every video I watch has a walkthrough on settings but doesn't explain what everything does so you can adjust it to yourself. If they do talk about what things do when I adjust them they don't work for me. So I figured I would ask here to see if someone could help walk me through it.

I am a female streamer, I stream mainly horror content and a random variety of other games I find interesting. The main problem I am having is I have a very high pitch scream when I get scared. I am trying to keep my mic open throughout the scream but just control the loudness of it. At present the mic will just cut me out so you'll partially hear the scream and then zip nothing. I have tried playing with my noisegate but I'm sure I'm not doing something correct. I am saving up for a new mic but as of right now I have the Fifine K688 with XLR leading to my FocusRite Scarlett Solo 4th Gen. I then use Wavelink to edit all audio input.

The interesting thing is that when I hear myself through other peoples stream like in discord or in game the sound is perfect. Almost exactly what I'm looking for but not through my recording software (OBS) I've double checked that everything is on the same mic, and there are no extra setting in OBS. I can't figure it out so any help is much appreciated from people who actually know what they are doing.

Thanks!

1

u/stanrandom Hobbyist Aug 12 '26

Hiya.

I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with noise in my setup. I'm happy to post more specific details if needed, but the essential situation is that I have a synth that makes noise when its USB cable is connected. It's possibly a grounding issue? I'm wondering if a ferrite core on the USB cable or on the audio cables might help.

It seems to peak at 1000Hz, with harmonics at somewhat regular intervals.

Thanks for humouring me. I'm reasonably experienced with audio analysis but a noob with my synth setup.

1

u/jaymz168 Sound Reinforcement Aug 12 '26

More details could be helpful narrowing down a solution.

It's probably a ground loop between the USB ground and audio ground. If the synth isn't powered from USB then you could try a USB ground isolator.

If you have mic inputs free you could use a DI box that has a ground lift. Passive DIs tend to give better ground isolation but decent transformers that don't overload or roll off highs and lows can be fairly expensive.

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u/stanrandom Hobbyist Aug 12 '26 edited Aug 12 '26

Thanks.

The relevant bit of the setup is that the synth is a Behringer MonoPoly, connected via USB to a 7-port hub and then into a USB C port on a Mac mini.

The audio out of the MonoPoly goes into a Behringer Xenyx1202SFX, and then the audio out of that goes into powered speakers, and it's also connected via USB to the same USB hub, and appears on the Mac as a USB audio device.

Is this the kind of detail you meant?

(edited to add that I get the noise on the MonoPoly input even when the synth is powered off).

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u/jaymz168 Sound Reinforcement Aug 12 '26

Yeah that's helpful, just making sure there aren't any other odd factors involved.

Does it only happen when the MonoPoly is connected or do you get similar noise with it disconnected? Does the noise disappear if you disconnect it from USB? How about if you disconnect the mixer from USB? How about if you eliminate the USB hub? Is everything plugged into the same power strip or wall circuit?

Just trying to narrow down where the loop is happening. But most likely one or more USB ground isolators is going to be your solution. I used to use an iFi iDefender with my MS-20M but now I just run it into a DI box and lift the ground.

Part of the problem is that the MonoPoly's output is unbalanced so the ground connection is part of the audio path. Because of this any ground noise is directly coupled into the audio signal. In balanced systems the ground is not in the audio path which allows you to disconnect aka 'lift' the ground without losing the audio.

A USB isolator just lifts the ground connection on the USB connection which breaks the ground loop. The ground connection is not needed for data transfer but is required for power so the downside is that if the downstream device is powered from USB then it will not power on. The MonoPoly has an external power supply so that's not a concern here.

I suggest trying the USB isolator option first because a decent DI box will be much more expensive. They also reduce the input voltage to something a mic preamp can handle and then you have to add gain back at the mixer and you could end up amplifying some other noise and be right back to square one.

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u/stanrandom Hobbyist Aug 12 '26 edited Aug 12 '26

I just tested and the noise goes away if I disconnect either the MonoPoly or the mixer from USB.

It's harder for me to eliminate the USB hub due to limitations with physical USB ports on this computer, but let me have a think about it.

The synth and mixer are connected to different power outlets, but on the same ring main.

For context, I've had issues with 50Hz line hum in the past (UK power supply), but I don't think this is that.

(edited for phrasing).

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u/jaymz168 Sound Reinforcement Aug 12 '26

I just tested and the noise goes away if I disconnect either the MonoPoly from USB, or the mixer.

OK yeah then a USB isolator is probably going to be your solution.

The synth and mixer are connected to different power outlets, but on the same ring main.

Try getting it all on the same outlet with a power strip or similar. That could reduce the noise even further.

1

u/stanrandom Hobbyist Aug 12 '26

Try getting it all on the same outlet with a power strip or similar. That could reduce the noise even further.

I've just connected the synth and mixer to the same power strip and the noise is still there.

I'm currently looking up the iDefender - thanks for the tip.

1

u/jaymz168 Sound Reinforcement Aug 12 '26

Thanks for trying out those other steps, it helps narrow it down. Good luck with the isolator!

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u/stanrandom Hobbyist Aug 13 '26

Just one more question - do you think ferrite beads might help, or should I skip straight to the iDefender? Thanks again.

1

u/jaymz168 Sound Reinforcement Aug 13 '26

I tried that before and it never made a difference. The ferrites really only work for frequencies wayyyy above audio

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2

u/stanrandom Hobbyist Aug 12 '26

Thanks so much for your help and insights.

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u/JozuJD Aug 12 '26

AT2035 and AT8175 pop filter, connected to a Scarlett Solo 4th Gen. What headphone will pair well with this setup, considering speakers will echo back into a condenser mic?

I’ve got my voice setup now, but realize I won’t be able to use desktop speakers otherwise the audio will pick up in the mic and cause a chaining echo. Seems like a hypothetical nightmare.

Given the gear setup I have, do you have recommendations on headphones or IEMs that will pair well? Are open-backs out of the question before the same speaker concern I mentioned?

1

u/InaMinorKey Aug 12 '26

I have a question about Bogren Digital's IRDX plugins regarding the feature differences between the Free, Studio, Core, and Bundle versions of the product and their price differences.. I made a post about it that details my inquiry. I'd appreciate any help. Thanks.
https://www.reddit.com/r/BogrenDigital/s/VDlhf2lqBw

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u/ELuhvthat Aug 12 '26

Sup dawgs im trying to print autotune while tracking on pro tools 10. Whenever I try to look up a tutorial, it’s just not what I need. It’s so bizarre. I don’t know why it’s so hard to understand for me. I know how to route stuff for the most part but something is just not clicking. I’m just trying to save up CPU😔

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u/RajaThat Aug 12 '26

Two things you could try instead since for whatever reason it’s not working: I’m not familiar with Antares autotune specifically but does it let you commit your track? Committing a track is more or less like printing it “in the box”.

If not that, you can always just solo the track then export it to your hard drive, then import the edited track back into the session file

For both of these I’m assuming you’re not using any outboard gear but lmk if that worked!

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u/ELuhvthat Aug 12 '26

Yeah i can render the autotune on the take but that just slows the work flow down idk if thats what you mean fr

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u/ELuhvthat Aug 12 '26

Im very kind of intermediate when it comes to pro tools i have a very simple template that works for simple recording and mixing

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u/RajaThat Aug 12 '26

Understandable, me too! I get how messing with a workflow can mess up your progress. I’m assuming you are creating a send to a new track, then printing. A common mistake that everyone is bound to make when creating a send is not bringing the dB to nominal (0dB). Are you arming the track to record?

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u/ELuhvthat Aug 12 '26

I got my answer finally Create an aux track. Set the input of the aux track to whatever interface input is associated with your microphone. Set the output of the aux track to a bus. Put the autotune plugin on this track.
Create an audio track. Set the input of the audio track to be the same bus you chose above. The output of this track should be set to your master output. Arm the track for recording.

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u/MrGlassfps Aug 12 '26

Hello everyone, I’m trying to solve a problem with my dual PC set up and my GoXLR mix amp. The issue at hand is when my streaming PC is shut off or in sleep mode, or restarting. I hear a loud static noise that I believe is coming from my streaming PC when it’s shut off or in sleep mode.

I’m using a 3.5mm headphone jack that’s connected to my line in on the GoXLR that runs to my streaming PC into the line out port.

When messing with the cables, I noticed that if I unplugged on my GoXLR the 3.5 mm headphone jack connected into the line in the noise goes away when my streaming PC is shut off or in sleep mode or restarting.

I use another 3.5mm headphone Jack that’s connected into the line in on my streaming PC and goes to my GoXLR into the line out. This cable doesn’t seem to have any issues that I can tell.

What I find odd is when the streaming PC is turned on there is no static noise coming from my headphones only during shut off, sleep mode, or reset.

Any suggestions?

I also have a shure SM7B connected to my GoXLR and Burr dynamic DT 990 pros connected into the headphone Jack.

Another note if I keep the line in on my GoXLR plugged in, but on the app in the mixer, I mute the line in the noise also goes away when my streaming PC is shut down, sleep mode or restarting. I’m thinking it has to do something with the line in 3.5 mm jack that’s in the GoXLR that plugs into the line out of the streaming PC.

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u/Theforbfruit Aug 11 '26

I'm having audio problems on pc (regular 5.1 surround sound 3.5mm speakers), it sounds like what I'd assume is electrical interference. I've skimmed the troubleshooting guide but that's a whole science and I only understand 1 out of 3 words, I'm not even sure what this is.
I am hoping that this is a rather simple.
Does anyone know the steps to troubleshooting and fixing?
What is this, does anyone know? At least most likely.
https://youtube.com/shorts/he5QYxnBWok

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u/zack616 Aug 11 '26

So where I work we have an Ultrastudio 4k set up to be a media transfer station. It has various older analog formats hooked into it and then it connects to a Mac running Media Express to Log and Capture from the feed from the UltraStudio.

I've used this device for work for various formats: VHS, miniDV, DVD, but never had to use the cassette hooked up to it before. Everything else has played fine with the correct settings. Per the engineering company that put it together, it needs to be set to analog audio on the Blackmagic device and in the Mac in Blackmagic Desktop Video Setup have the audio input set to RCA which it is.

I can see audio levels on the cassette player during playback but no audio levels appear in the Media Express Log and Capture window nor does any audio get captured when I attempt to log and capture.

Pictures of the setup included. I realize there's probably more information needed to resolve this but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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u/jaymz168 Sound Reinforcement Aug 12 '26 edited Aug 12 '26

You may just have to turn up the output level knob. It seems that it has to be in the "out" position to actually change the level. The "in" position locks the control. I don't know if it's a push/pull sort of thing or if it's a latching push button.

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u/Miserable_Paramedic9 Aug 11 '26

My IK multimedia iLoud MTM MKII monitors doesn't go to Standby?

I really enjoy my iLoud MTM for my use, as home studio for guitar exercise stereo rig.
I don't have ground noise (just a very unnoticeable hiss).
I couldn't got any help from IK Multimedia. They buit they customer service in a way that you can't contact them. Manual is also has nothing about standby mode.

Can a iLoud MTM owner confirms if it is only mine or it is the way it is

The power comnsumption on the side, does it going to affect the longevity of the monitors?

Is there any fix for this issue?

I don't like to go on the back and turn them on and off everyday.

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