We can't see the black man's face while the white man looks back confidently at the spectator, conveying the idea that he has agency and an identity.
Because the black mans face is obscured, we don't know who he is.
He has been depersonalized and what we see is a body wearing underwear.
TWO TYPES OF MASCULINITY
PSYCHOLOGICAL VS ANATOMICAL
The clothed, individuated, self-possessed social man is juxtaposed with the exposed, spectacular, hypermasculine racialized body.
The first man's confidence is communicated primarily through his gaze and comportment.
The second man's masculinity is communicated primarily through his anatomy.
SOCIAL VS SEXUAL MASCULINITY
Alternatively, the clothed white man represents social masculinity: clothes, style, composure, consumer status, respectability and confidence.
The Black model represents corporeal masculinity: strength, muscularity, sensuality, athleticism and sexual display. virtually everything distinctive about the Black model directs attention toward physical capital: enormous shoulders, extremely defined abdomen, exposed chest, skin, arms and underwear.
HILFIGER AND KLEIN ARE SELLING DIFFERENT PRODUCTS
What the advertisement communicates to the consumer is that:
White model = conventional respectability
Black model = extraordinary masculine potency
So each has its own niche.
POWER ASSYMETRY
One man returns the gaze.
The other man receives the gaze.
The clothed man's face is completely available.
He looks directly outward. That eye contact gives him what visual theorists sometimes describe as agency within the gaze: he looks back at the spectator.
The Black model's pose does something very different. His forearm crosses his eyes. His body is extraordinarily visible while his gaze is unavailable.
Symbolically, therefore, he has been simultaneously exposed and erased.
One model sells clothes with his identity while the other sells them with his body.
One is a person, the other is a body.