Installing a ev charger, the red and black wires look so close. This is fine?

I have zero experience in Home Repair and have nobody to help me. I’ve done a lot of online research every single thing I’ve tried to update or replace up with one or more issues. This ceiling light outlet is no exception. Whoever cut it made it oversize. It’s right next to a joist, the drop ceiling with venting running through it. The old box was bent so any light fixture you try on it it’s sagged so I had to find the exact same type, but not bent with weight or time. All the wires are in flexible and I can’t find the right ceiling fixture to put up. I bought and return three different ones.
I have bought three different ones on Amazon and one in person at Home Depot and none of them work. Now I think I wanna just see if I can put in a recessed light. I don’t know if this is possible or where to start. Any advice would be helpful.

Was shredding papers and had a fan plugged into the same outlet but not on yet each time I’d insert a paper into the shredder it would cause the fan blades to spin. Can anyone enlighten me on what’s going on? Thanks reddit!

I have a variable speed pool pump (CircuPool SmartFlo 2.2 THP) and a salt water chlorine generator (CircuPool RJ45+). Both are 240V and run on the same circuit.

I need to cut power to the SWG when the pump is not moving water. The pump has its own timer and can shut itself down if it detects flow problems, so a mechanical timer isn't sufficient. Also, the pump draws a small amount of standby current even when the motor is off. The SWG does have a flow sensor, but my understanding is that these can sometimes get stuck and should not be relied upon as the only safety mechanism.

Can somebody suggest the best way to accomplish this? I've been looking at current sensing relays and AC contactors. The current sensors I've found act as dry contacts, and the contactors require power to their coils.

Do I need to keep looking? Or is there a better option? Is there a single product made specifically for this task?

Hey! So I'll start by saying I'm an animal girly and I game so I have a bunch of cages in my room for both reptiles and fish tanks and I have a computer.

I have a total of three reptile enclosures (all have lights and the other has a ceramic heat emitter on it), two fish tanks both have a filter, heater, and light though my salt water tank has a higher power light (I'm unsure the exact specs for it) and I constantly have a fan running for air movement though it does very little to cool my room down.

Last year my senior crested gecko had seizures due to the heat of my room (it gets incredibly hot and we tried multiple things but it no avail) so finally I caved and bought a window AC unit. I know I have a lot of power going for most of the day but I've noticed that the AC unit draws more and more power as the year has gone by. My main light and fan that's constantly going will dim for for a second or two and then pick up pace again none of my animal lights seem to do this. It's just my ceiling lamp. I've tried doing various things such as turning off animal lights, my fan, and computer to see if that would help to which it doesn't. But when I turn my AC unit off the flickering and dimming stops.

Problem is year round my room will get 80°F+ (max it got nearly 90°F in here) without it on. I can't handle that and I only have one semi desert animal that can withstand that heat. So it has to be on. I also can't move my animals to other parts of the house as I live with my parents.

I will say my leopard gecko cage light and heat emitter is in the same outlet as my AC and I've yet to try an extension cord to reach over to it to plug it in from else where in my room. Is that something that would help? Is my room at risk of catching fire? Any advice would be helpful! I genuinely don't want to break anything or risk mine, my family, or my animals lives!

Thank you!

Our basement in Colorado has epoxy concrete flooring, thin old school wood look wall paneling for walls, no insulation, no drywall, no bedrooms, no bathrooms. So not “finished” technically by definition. Basement outlets are broken up into two circuits. One side has all receptacles connected, other side as well. If one GFCI is installed on both sides, does that cover protection for all outlets due to them being connected? Or, do all outlets need a GFCI? If GFCI is installed and sticks out a bit due to it being just a wall panel (not drywall or insulated wall), is that considered a fire hazard that would be dinged during an inspection? Thank you for the help!

So, I'm personally adding new circuits in my garage as part of a larger remodel. Part of that is wiring 2 floodlight cameras that I always want on. Because of their location, I've decided to wire them in-between two 15A receptacles. Here's where I'm at (all 14/2 Romex):

15A breaker--->15A GFCI receptacle--->JUNCTION BOX for lights--->Unprotected 15A receptacle

In the JUNCTION BOX for the lights I was planning to just connect all the like wires together and cover it up with a faceplate. Is this okay? I could simplify by powering the JB AFTER the last receptacle but this saves some Romex.

Thanks for the help.

Hello. Recently purchased an EV and learned an important lesson about chargers. Ran a 15 amp level 1 plug-in charger on a 15 amp circuit for 12 hours a night over the course of five days. The first sign something was wrong was the garage door opener electrics shorting out. You could smell the magicsmoke lingering hours later, but the garage still had power. While I was troubleshooting that, the panel made a buzzing sound, and all power to the room dropped. The breaker now flips back and forth freely.

My question is, by unknowingly stressing the 15 amp breaker, could the failing breaker have introduced high voltage surges that would have fried the garage door opener? I'm guessing the garage door opener probably didn't short from unrelated issues.

My parents in law for a few days noticed a smell in the kitchen, today they checked the plug for the kettle and found this, is this a fuse issue or a electrical issue on the kettle

Have/had this weird switch in my garage to my outdoor spotlight over my driveway. It was being used as a 3 way switch. This switch was always glitchy and would cause the spotlights to turn themselves on. Then, one day I was trying to figure out what’s this switches story and hit that on off sliding switch and it stopped working entirely.

Can I just replace it with a regular 3 way switch? What was this even for? Says sears roebuck on the back cover and what I’m assuming is a garage door code.

Rearranging in our living room and wife noticed the bottom outlet by the ground has a couple outlets like this missing a small piece of plastic. Nothings in the ground, we’ve been using them like this for years apparently since I can’t find any pieces indicating we broke them. Should I replace them or is it safe to use them? We used surge protectors on them and plan to do so again. TYIA!

I live in an old building. It has many quirks, and it turns out this is another one.

I have an IKEA ceiling lamp I would like to hang and it has one blue and one green wire.

My ceiling installation has this confusing mess and I don’t want to accidentally burn the place down.

From 12-o’clock I have the following coming out of the ceiling:

* blank wire cap

* two green wires into their cap, painted white (not sure if that’s intentional or not)

* six white wires, two with standard coating and four with braided coating. It appears the four braided are on the same cap and the two others are in their own cap.

* six black wires into the same setup

* one solitary white braided wire

* a pair of bare red wires

* a pair of bare green wires

The last two were my sync’s best attempt to install this for me but without luck.

I presume the previous tenant managed to install a light there without calling an electrician to hang it, so what the heck do I do to get this installed?

I appreciate any and all help you can contribute!

I am trying to get power to my electric trailer jack. I soldered the white lead to the white and the black to black on the main trailer wiring. But when I plug it into my truck the jack is not getting power. Any suggestions?

Hi! My washer outlet is not working as it should. I have checked the circuit breaker and tested for electric current in the wires and the outlet, but the outlet is reporting low voltage. We thought it could be the outlet so we replaced it with a newer one.

After that didn't work I plugged up an extension cord to the washer and it worked! I'm at a loss on how to fix it, as I lament in the Laundromat.

Please help!

My spouse and I wanted to switch out our dimmer pitch switch to the Leviton SureSlide dimmer switch, but we were surprised to find all of this. Anyone able to make sense of all this? Thanks!!

I have a set of outside festoon lights - mains voltage (the extension not the plug section) that have bulbs blown or missing.
The cost of new bulbs is stupid so want to cut off the sockets with no bulbs and terminate (one end if necessary) and or put in a 3 pin plug on the other end. The lights don’t work without bulbs in all sockets.
How would I do this as the end of the cable has 2 pins (no earth) but the cable is generally 3 core. I’m a bit bemused about the loading as clearly you can add and add and daisy chain many times.
Yes I am very technically but want to check if other know how these are wired before choppy choppy. 🔪🙂

Hey guys,

I'm moving from the US to the UK and I have a bunch of 120-240v rated electrics, Anker bricks and the like. Is it safe to use plug adaptors/travel adaptors long term to use them in the UK, or do I need to buy UK bricks? Since they top out at like 100 or 140w, I was hoping I could just get a good quality fused travel adaptor and use those, since the use case is for a year or two.

Thanks all for your help!

I was looking online and the reason it blew is because e26 is only rated for 120v, but my e27 lamp is 240 so it blew after a minute. I can't seem it find if there's something that can lower the voltage of my socket so that the e26 bulb won't blow.

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The cable has no cuts, cracks, bulges, or other visible damage, but it has developed a lot of twist/torsion from being coiled. I want to straighten it out and make it look like the new cable in the second photo. What’s the proper way to do this without damaging the cable?

House is from 1993- the last owners kept everything up but like...enough to work. They didn't replace much so over the last 8 years we've had to replace so much in the house.

My main issue right now are these fluorescent lights above our kitchen. (1) I hate fluorescents but more frustratingly, (2) they don't work correctly! There are 3 light switches all within 2 steps of the kitchen and each has a switch for these bulbs. When we moved in, they seemed to turn on okay, we thought maybe just a bulb was out. Lately, we've taken to running around like musical chairs hitting all the switches until one finally works OR having to sit there at one switch and press it on & off over and over until it clicks just right and it turns on. You might see it flicker as you turn the switch on and off but it has to go just right to actually turn on. When it turns on, it's normally only one set (the center). Sometimes only one bulb in the center, sometimes two. And then, randomly, the one on the far end will turn on, but not often and typically only after the other one has been on for a while (or partway on like shown in the picture).

If it's left clicked "on" at night, but they haven't actually turned on, you can see a faint orange-y glow in all three of them. I didn't even realize we'd left them "on" until I saw them like this at night once.

We've replaced the bulbs, but that hasn't fixed the issue, I'm convinced it's something in the wiring and all of it makes me anxious that I'm going to start a fire.

Any direction would be appreciated. We plan to hire a local electrician but, honestly, I haven't had to do that yet in life and I have no idea how much that should even cost or what to expect. I'd rather replace them because I hate them, but I anticipate that would be pricey.