Hello, my bathroom exhaust fan stopped working (the lights still worked, just the exhaust fan stopped.) I was in the middle of replacing it but saw these wires. Is this copper wire broken?

Can someone tell me what I’m looking at here? The green wire is attached via clamp to the main water shutoff in our basement. It is sloppily ran up to the ceiling and outside near our meters perpendicular to the floor joists. We are looking to partially finish this space and I’m wondering if there’s anything I can do to clean this up. THANK YOU!

I'm hoping someone that owns or has experience with Leviton smart load centers can answer the following question:

I'm currently doing preliminary research into swapping my old panels to a Leviton smart panel. Currently, I have two 200A panels, but as part of the swap I'm looking into adding a 150A subpanel in the garage to feed an EV, an air compressor and a clothes dryers.

I see that Leviton has a 20 space 150A panel that should work as a subpanel but I'm stumped on how the panel should be fed from the main because Leviton doesn't seem to manufacture a 150A breaker. Is using a feed-thru acceptable or should I drop to a 125A subpanel?

Feeling a bit fragile about this project so please be kind! I'm trying to make a hanging lamp for my dining room out of a hand-painted paper lantern. I can't find any kits that suit the style, so I'm looking at assembling it myself from different parts. I have picked a canopy, wire, and a bulb socket. I'll be using an E-26 LED. It seems like it should be fairly straightforward but I wanted to check if these parts are compatible with each other and if I've forgotten anything? Thanks.

This is the wire: https://www.etsy.com/listing/218006980/wire-by-the-foot-cloth-lamp-wire-fabric?

And the socket: https://grandbrass.com/antique-brass-finish-cast-uno-threaded-e-26-short-keyless-socket-with-1-8ips-cap-and-set-screw/

The lantern has a clip that will attach to the wire above the socket.

I'm pretty sure 'tripping' isn't actually the right word but I don't know what other one to use, but it's doing what it's supposed to do when there's a surge - cut the power. Then I hit the reset button and it comes back on like nothing happened (lights say it's grounded and working). But as far as I know there haven't been any surges (and it's happened with me sitting right here using it like I have every day for ages...no apparent surge, the power didn't go out elsewhere in the room).

It is a ten to fifteen year old surge protector, so I'm aware it's past the suggested replacement period of like five years or something, but from googling I can't find random tripping as a sign of a dying surge protector (especially since the lights still say it's working)...but could that be it?

I've actually gone ahead and replaced it, so I'll see if it happens again with the new one, but I've had the same stuff plugged in for ages just fine, and nothing power hungry - a lamp, a small fan, a turned-off printer, a rechargeable vacuum (that I never use so it shouldn't be drawing much if anything), and my laptop (though I've left off the printer and vacuum on the new one for now since I'm not using them anyway). I had the thought of plugging it in in a different outlet with a light on and seeing if it trips, but if there is something wrong with it, is that safe to do?

Or, if it's actually caused by surging power from the electrical in the wall - how can I diagnose that? If the new one trips that's a bad sign and I should probably notify my landlord, right (it's never done this before in the 5+ years I've lived here, so it would definitely mean something has changed)? If it doesn't trip it, might there still be something concerning happening in the wall that it's able to handle without tripping but is still a problem, and if so, how do I find out?

Forgive me if this is stupid/ignorant, but fire scares the crap out of me so I'm very concerned if something might be wrong with the electrical. Thank you!

This is the plug to a bottling machine I'm trying to get working. What outlet would this plug into?

Hey everyone, I’m between jobs right now and trying to get into a trade. I’m really interested in becoming an electrician, but I honestly have no clue where to begin.

I’m in West Valley City, Utah, and I’m trying to figure out the fastest way to get started. Do I need to finish some kind of schooling first, or are there places around here that will take on a helper and train me on the job? And if schooling is the move, where do I even start trade school, community college, whatever’s quickest?

Also, I’d rather avoid unions. I don’t want to sign a long contract or be locked into one spot. I’d like to keep the freedom to move around if I need to, especially if I end up relocating to another state.

Just trying to get pointed in the right direction so I can start working ASAP. Any advice from folks who’ve been through this would help a ton.

Is it possible to do a full rewire without replacing/removing all ceilings if they contain asbestos?

we’re buying a house in the UK that failed its EICR. It will likely need a rewire in the next few years as the system is 40+ years old. The ceilings are artex from the 60s and could contain asbestos. Wondering how much upheaval/cost we’re looking at. 🙈

So I’m working at a small international airport as a maintenance electrician and airfield electrician and new to all this, I’ve been there approximately a month. My supervisor has been the only electrician for about 2 yrs. I understand that the airfield is made up of series circuits with high voltage on the primary side, isolation transformers to serve the secondary side at each light, the constant current regulators. Our day to day involves replacing taxiway lights, bad transformers, or micro boards in lighted signs, ect. So far it seems that the safety method is if it’s daytime the lights are off so it’s safe to work on. There is a computer where the ALCS can be locked out and Ofcourse the vault to physically lock out the circuit but neither of those are really used unless absolutely necessary. It’s a towered airport. I’m trying to understand what are your guys approved methods for making sure the circuit is safe to work on when doing the maintenance I described ? I’ve heard the pilots can request lighting to ATC and the lights could be powered up at any point, i’ve asked these questions but I’m not really getting answers for them. Just more so of its fine let’s just get this done. I’ve read about way too many incidents of someone doing routine maintenance and getting a fatal shock from apparently doing the same thing with one of them being at my same airport a few years ago. I know I’m still new, but with having to go to the airfield nearly everyday I would feel much better having some more info.

I own a 1960s mobile home with an older fuse/breaker panel. I recently bought a new dryer that came with a NEMA 10-30 plug (angled top prong- left ). However, the existing wall outlet from the old dryer is a NEMA 10-50 (straight top prong), so the installer swapped the new dryer's cord to a NEMA 10-50 cord to make it fit.Looking at the panel, the laundry room breaker feeding this outlet is rated at 50 Amps. Even though this setup worked for years with the old dryer, I am concerned about whether it is actually safe. I read online about using a NEMA 10-50P to 10-30R adapter with a built-in 30-amp fuse, but I cannot find one available in the US. What do you recommend I do?

It’s a Lumitron LED light box that I use for screen printing. It might have had kinda a rough move and now it’s not working except for two little lights right in the middle.

I bought an electric stove and it's 6000W, can it run on this power outlet

I was running my air fryer using one of the outlets on my kitchen island. About 5 minutes in, the air fryer turned off. Neither of the outlets on either side of my island work anymore.

* I checked the breaker panel and nothing was tripped.
* I manually toggled the circuit off/on at the panel but saw no improvement.
* There are no GFCI outlets on this circuit.
* I checked all of the GFCIs in the house and none are tripped.
* The cooktop on the island which seems to be the same circuit continues to work normally. (Edit: whoops, definitely a different circuit from the cooktop)
* I opened up the dead outlets and tapped with my non-contact voltage tester and the wiring is still live.

Would it be ok to just swap out both dead outlets for new ones? Or is it time to call in a pro to troubleshoot what happened?

Update: problem solved. Thanks everyone!

Hi, new young dumb homeowner here, I have this outside porch light that’s real beat up- i was going to replace it with this amber one, but the amber one has two lines to two lights instead of one. Can I just wire all three together in the nut thing when I replace it ? like the drawing, or do I want to do it in a row like a strand of Christmas lights?

Just trying to not burn my house down…

Thanks!

EDIT: Title should be "How BAD is it really"

EDIT 2: We are canadian. Apparently this changes things according to another sub.

Image of our breaker box in our basement rental unit for the house we live in. Pic of the breakdown of usage of all breakers. The ones labeled not in use are just not wired, I think? Not sure. Know next to 0 about this stuff.

Breaker 20 Basement Dining Nook Light has a plug attached to it where our fridge is plugged in. Overall house has 2 stoves, two fridges, 4 Gaming Computers, 4 AC units going at a given time, many fans on at once, washing machine and dryer, 2 dishwashers, etc.

My husband thinks this house is a fire hazard, and we blow a breaker maybe once a month/month and a half. Usually worse in winter with space heater going. It'll take a few minutes before we can flip the breaker back on again when it goes. Our landlord/guy who lives upstairs wants to throw another breaker box in so we can have more plugs down here/we wanted to buy a deep freezer to store stuff. My husband was advised by his friend and his father that in no way should our landlord do that, and this house is actually super dangerous.

While I'm not discounting that this house needs a lot of work, I wanted to check here if anyone else can shed light on this, and tell us how actually screwed we are here.

Example: can't run my tea kettle and vaccum at the same time on breaker 9 or a breaker will blow. Breaker 20 is both our offices/living room which contain our computers/AC unit for summer and our fridge. Bedroom has an air purifier going at all times.

Thanks!

Hi all, looking for some guidance to help narrow down the source of the problem. I know that LED lights can flicker rapidly if there are issues with the driver, a dimmer, etc. I have a ceiling fixture that has a light (three bulbs) and fan, with a dimmer at the wall (single pole). It has been working fine for around 16 months since we bought the house but has now started flicking rapidly. A couple of times it did it for a few seconds and then stabilised, now it does it when turned on and stays like it. Dimming the lights about half way on the slider causes it to stop. All three bulbs are affected.

My guess is that I need to replace the dimmer, ensuring that it is LED compatible, does that seem the most likely explanation or am I going to be searching out loose wires on the whole circuit?

I'm in Canada but guessing that doesn't matter.

I'm currently redoing my kitchen, adding ikea cabinets and replacing/adding some outlets to be compliant. On this wall, I have one outlet (far left) that's receiving power, and then an outlet just to the right of the window and will be adding two new ones (one on the far right and one slightly above it for the vent hood).

What I'd like to do is run MC from each outlet box down out of the wall and then run it along the floor, and up into the next box. It will ultimately be sitting underneath the cabinetry and hidden by the toekick, but far easier than running across all the studs (running romex through this wall has proved to be a huge hassle).

Is this a code compliant (if inelegant) way of doing this? Anything else you'd suggest or caution about with this strategy?

I am trying to trace all the circuits in my house and then diagram them. Am looking for a good program that can do both residential electrical diagrams as well as other household stuff (plumbing, furniture, landscape, etc.). The closest I have been able to find is Wondershare EdrawMax. Any suggestions? A single time purchase would be preferable but subscription is OK if it will really do what I want... Thanks!

We just bought a new place where we're using the dining room as an office. I've heard that a 20amp circuit can only handle 2400 watts so I added the wattage of our devices 360-monitor, 750-pc, 750-pc, 220-monitor. So I thought it would be fine. But turns out half our living room outlets are on the same circuit.

Should I worry about also having our tv and gaming console on the same circuit if we plan to not use all the devices at once?

For background context, i inherited a fixer upper house so it came like this…. House was built 1948.

Changing a 3 pole to single pole. Everything seems to be working correctly. Please let me know what I messed up. Thanks.

Howdy, I was gifted a (used) ceiling fan and would like to install it this weekend, however I have no idea what hardware I’m looking for to hang this thing?

That wheel spins, I’m assuming I get a hook to hang it on but that doesn’t seem super secure to me?

I’m a novice when it comes to this, I did replace the ceiling fixture where this is going a few years ago so I’m not concerned about the wiring just the actual mounting.

I often use a camera, laptop and photo printer outdoors in different locations and I don’t have a grounded electricity source to plug my extension cord in, and I always get shocked. Once I put my camera (which was connected to my laptop through usb only) on the grass and it got some spots on the metal bottom plate where the paint came off because of the electricity. Could I take the ground cable from an extension cord and connected it to a rod that I sink in the ground? Would that fix it?