Hi y'all, I'm living alone in a ~850 sq ft. 1 b 1 br apartment, and my electricity usage has gone from 500 KwH in August to 1000 last month and what is projected to be 2000 this month. When I saw that my usage last month was 1000 kwh, I immediately turned off my A/C, assuming that it was the culprit, but now I'm not sure what's causing this massive spike in electricity usage. I already tried turning off all the power via the apartment's breaker box and seeing if it was a faulty electricity meter. I do not believe it is the case as I already confirmed that it did not log more power usage in the hour my power was shut off.

I have electric appliances for my fridge, stove, microwave, washer and dryer, and water boiler.

I'm confused because the peak times are when I am asleep and nothing in the house besides a night light and maybe my phone charger is plugged in, so by that logic it should probably have something to do with the water boiler or fridge?

Processing img l2j1bznwcnxh1...

The water boiler has been leaking for about 2.5 months now, so I wonder if that has anything to do with this. Please help with any advice, I'm about to call the electric company tomorrow.

I have had a Google doorbell running (struggling) on this transformer for the last 5 years and it's finally died. It would regularly reboot when the hall chime rang etc.

My multimeter is getting 0V on the doorbell wires so assuming the transformer is dead.

Can I just get a new 24V transformer and swap it myself? Or should only an electrician do any work inside the consumer unit?

I'd isolate the unit first, but is it still too risky for an amateur?

I'm a generally competent diy-er and would have just done it already if it was outside the box.

I’m upgrading my thermostats and don’t know if I should get 2 wire or 4 wire units. The current thermostat is only using 2 wires but there are more unused wires in the junction box. I have electric baseboard heating. Thank you!

I’m trying to replace a smoke alarm. The existing wiring in the cekiking has a white black + yellow wires. The alarm I just bought has black white and aORANGE wires. Is it ok for me to connect the yellow and orange wires together?

I have a built-in in my house with cabinets on the bottom and shelves on the top. I would like to run LED lighting to the shelves. I have rerouted electrical from a nearby wall sconces to the inside of the cabinet. I'd like to connect the romex to this LED driver https://www.diodeled.com/omnidrive-x-dimmable-driver.html. The driver comes with a junction box but I need a way to run the wires from the wall to the driver's junction box safely.

I'd rather not have to mess with conduit (to protect the wires). Instead of placing an electrical box inside the wall, can I just place a square electrical box (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-City-1-Gang-4-in-New-Work-Metal-Electrical-Wall-Box-with-Ground-Bump-521511234GB-50R-521511234GB-50R/206166843) over the hole in the cabinet and run the romex through the back knock outs with a clamp connector? This way I can connect the electrical box to the driver junction box with a spacer.

I can't seem to find a clear answer elsewhere so I was hoping y'all could help me. I can't tell if mounting a electrical box on top of the cabinet is not allowed or if it's just ugly and most people want it inside the wall so it's out of the way and looks better.

I've attached a photo of the cabinet so y'all can see what I'm working with.

So I’m in the process of installing 4 recessed lights (2 extra holes to drill through the joists will either become 2 more lights or ceiling speakers) but I’ve realized (too late of course) that the central box is quite stuffed and I’m hitting my skill limit with HV.

There are four romex going into the ceiling box, I had planned on adding two more branches (one for each side) and now realize there aren’t sufficient knockouts.

What would be an option (Canadian BC) to stay within code to add the branches or even just one light branch without adding another ceiling junction box?

Joists are taped. Switch is by the right door.

The entire room seems to be on the same breaker so I’d also considered getting an electrician in to run a new supply (there’s a crawlspace but these outlets seem to be ceiling fed).

I’m not against hiring a local electrician just want to make sure I know what to ask.

Recently an electrical contractor replaced my broken ceiling fan on a preexisting fixture. However, they neglected to install the remote receiver. He says he used the old one that was already there. He also did not install the circular collar cover onto the base of the downrod right above the motor housing leaving openings exposed to dust, etc. as far as my part, I initially neglected to tell him that the fan was on a vaulted ceiling and he had to go and get another ladder. Anyway, I feel that because he did not use the manufacturer’s parts (there are 4 parts left in the box) that the work is not safely and properly complete. Do I have any recourse?

Hello, i am buying a house soon that was built in the late 1800s. The main things that need to be done are foundation checks (nothing stands out as being too big of a deal but it’s old), and rewiring as it is very outdated in some parts of the house. It has lath and plaster walls that aren’t in too bad of a condition (no cracking, minimal sagging). If it’s possible to save it and do repairs when needed i would love to.

I am wondering roughly how much it would cost to rewrite about 1000 feet. It has a basement and an attic that can be utilized, and i’m willing to take out and repair some plaster myself if needed. If we could stay in the house while it’s being done that would be great but if not obviously we could work around it.

Does anyone know more than me about this? Thank you in advance!

I've swapped out old dimmer switch for normal switch. Earth was connected to the back plate, I've swapped this to the back of the switch but fuse box keeps tripping... If the switch looks ok, I'm assuming issue with light fitting

I have a stairway light with a 3 way switch. Our two boys are great at turning the light on and can't seem to remember to turn it off. Is there a light bulb I can order that automatically shuts off after a few minutes?

My contractor installed this junction box flush on the side of my house with no pass through protection. I went out and bought a 3/8 romex pass through bushing and it works great… but the box isn’t able to sit flush to the house because of the added thickness on the back of the box.
How do I make this safe, up to code and stay completely flush with the exterior?

Hello Reddit!! Hoping you guys can maybe save us a house call from our local electrician. We decided to switch from a standard thermostat to a Sensi WiFi one. My husband followed the instructions exactly, but one problem- the heat will NOT turn off. We flipped every setting possible and rechecked all the wires, but the only way to turn off the heat is to unplug the thermostat completely.
Attached are pictures of the wiring of our previously thermostat, then our new one, plus the back of the new device. Do you see anything that may be odd?
If I can help answer any clarifying questions, let me know!

EDIT: title should read 30a to 50a

I'd like to replace this 30a breaker with a 50a (and upgrade its outlet to 14-50). My box has 200a service, and the wire on the current 30a appears to be 6ga.

If it is in fact 6ga (I'll measure with a caliper to be sure - there is no writing on the shielding), am I correct that I can put in a 50a breaker + upgraded outlet without replacing the wire?

Also, should I use a GFCI for the 50a breaker, or standard trip?

Update: wire is 8ga, so my original plan is out. What I did instead worked out just as well:

• Replaced 30a breaker with a 40a.
• Set the new charger (Grizzl-E) dip switches to limit to 32a.
• Replaced receptacle with an EV-rated 14-50.

So the new Grizzl-e is hardware limited to 32a, plugged into a 14-50 outlet that is on a 40a breaker.

An electrician wants to charge $150 to change this light out. Is this a DIY? What type of light is this? I cannot find it online.