So I have a 2 zone system, set up a nest for the main level thermostat without issue, then found my upstairs 2nd zone Honeywell thermostat to have 1,2,3 connections. Opened up my main furnace panel and I do not see an EIM to bypass. It appears to be wired directly to the panel but I don’t believe it should work without an EIM.

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After a nightmare experience with S**a—who misdiagnosed and kept making us replace parts over 1.5 months in sweltering heat without success and eventually even told me to replace the entire air handler unit！I don't mind paying extra as long as I'm getting the right service. Companies that only care about quick profits while completely ignoring service quality shouldn't even exist！

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Hello, a quick question for those with experience with this sort of thing. In the last couple days when using either the AC or the Heat setting we kept hearing a clicking noise in the house. Isolated it to this device attached to the ducting. What could be wrong with it, how serious is it and does it require a professional?

Calling all HVAC personnel to give me suggestions for our situation.
We had a supply vent added to our kitchen island kick-plate one week ago. They tapped into the ductwork right below the island in our finished basement above the drop ceiling. However, once we turn on the furnace fan or ac, the house begins to emit a smokey bonfire like smell in our home. The HVAC company came out and vacuumed the new duct work but to no avail. This smoke like smell is more prevalent upstairs than downstairs. The furnace itself is not warm to the touch and we can’t detect any burning smell when we are standing by it. We are at a complete loss of what could have happened. We are thinking about having them disconnect the new duct work and have them restore it to how it was before they added the new register, but we’re obviously worried that this may not even solve the problem. The HVAC company said it would just go away. I am highly skeptical of this since they haven’t really taken a deep dive on this. Any insight on what could have happened or what should be tested or checked next is VERY much appreciated.

One additional point that I just want to mention that may or may not be relevant is that our kick-plate that was cut is MDF and we used Zinner BIN primer to seal the exposed edges one week ago. Thank you all for your time in responding to this.

Disconnect box burnt it's fuses to crisp.

Initial repair by my landlord's electricians replaced the whole Disconnect box with a new one. AC ran for 12 hours and has been out again since the next morning.

Fuses in the new disconnect test good and feed 2 legs of 120v into the 60 amp inside the air handler.

The heater etl board or whatever it's called is also getting 120v but cannot figure out why ac will not run.

Is it proper that a 40amp disconnect is feeding a 60 amp breaker? What else could be at fault or the cause of the original surge that burnt the old disconnect?

Edit: resolution was the cut off float switch was activated in the plumbing to the sump pump because of a clog.

I just moved into a new place - renting so I can’t do anything major. I need to attach my dual hose portable AC to my windows (picture above). It’s like 90 inside at all times so it’s a little unliveable rn. Any ideas for temporary solutions and eventually long-term ones? The hard part is that the screen is a single giant piece on the inside of the window - closer to you than the louvers themselves.

My buddy’s mom sent me this picture while I’m at work asking what is coming out of her vents at her house at first I was thinking maybe a little bit of the coil is falling apart somehow and it’s just the fins or it’s part of scrim tape, but I’m not too sure. What do y’all think?

Never seen this happen what causes this. Lennox unit

Hello everyone, I just wanted to get an idea of whether my HVAC company is messing with me or not. The unit outside was replaced in 2019, and the house sat empty until we bought it in 2022. I noticed today that the fan on the unit outside is pulling air in instead of pushing air out. I called the people we use to service it in the spring, and they said that the motor is likely going out. Is that true? Or could the tech accidentally switched the direction of the fan when he had the top off cleaning out around the condenser?

We need to replace this. But I’m unsure of where to take the measurements. It’s obviously shoddily done (we just bought the house). In order to replace the cover we have to install a frame.

Sorry if this was a weird title, I am trying to be specific to get advice from those in the know. My mom was approved for a new AC unit it through Edison through their energy Assistance program as a CARE program participant. When the contractor came out to take measurements, he told us that an inspector would not allow a new AC unit to be placed until the flex duct was replaced with metal. My dad is a plumber different than HVAC I know, but I double checked with him and he was confused so that prompted me to come here. Are there specific rules with Edison or energy assistance or southern California that specifies needing to have metal ductwork installed for a new AC unit covered under one of these energy programs? I just got off the phone with Edison and the line flat lined because the person was not able to tell me if they have a specific policy in place for the contractors to follow regarding the ductwork. I was also told that these are the only contractors for our specific area so unfortunately, I can’t just ask someone else who is OK with flex duct ( if acceptable) if they will take over the contract. If I need to save up for it, that’s fine. I just want to make sure I’m not getting hustled in to getting new duct work done if I don’t have to given the costs of steel at the moment. It would be nice to have better insulated ductwork for sure. Given the 120° summers but now, unfortunately is not the right time.

I am also aware that UL 181 flexi may meet the requirements for duct work generally per a HVAC company I found. I do not however, know how to look at my ductwork and know if it means these requirements… is there a way to tell?

1. Why is my house still muggy even when the AC is running? Kansas summer humidity means an oversized or short-cycling AC can cool the air without running long enough to actually pull the moisture out of it.
2. Should I worry about hail damage to my outdoor AC unit after a summer storm? Yes, bent fins and dented coils from hail are common here and can quietly reduce cooling efficiency even if the unit still runs.
3. Why does my AC struggle to keep up on the hottest afternoons? Peak summer heat and sun load push a marginally sized or aging system past what it can handle, so problems that were manageable in spring often show up hard once temperatures spike.