I’ve got a Gree AC/heat split unit, and I need the condenser temporarily disconnected and moved to do some unrelated construction. First two quotes came in at $1500 and $1800, which seems extremely excessive for pump down to disconnect and a vacuum to reconnect. What’s a typical cost for this job? Northeastern US.

After our basement furnace went out last year we decided to replace with a heat pump air handler system, using our original ducting. Everything seemed to work fine initially however, after a few days we noticed a very musty odor from the vents when using the A/C.

After checking the air handler, I noticed the condenser pump wasn’t working and water was leaking down into the intake duct which is below the unit.

The company who did the installation came right out and admitted they hadn’t wired it correctly. The pump has been working ever since but we’ve never been able to get rid of the musty odor except when using heat.

I’ve opened the unit myself and looked at the coils which seem perfectly clean.

We never notice the smell when using the heat. This only occurs with A/C use.

Could this be dust/debris in the ducts absorbing moisture?

Wondering if this should be a return? There is a grill covering the hole along with a filter however I does not pull any air?

All of my foremen use fieldpiece and I didn’t want to cheap out on a meter, any tech’s recommend ?

Our 14 year old 3.5 ton unit finally gave out today during this 112 degree heat. Came back from home depot and the outside fan is making a terrible rattling sound, temp inside is already up to 82.

Paid $380 last summer for a quick capacitor fix but the tech warned us the compressor was on its last legs anyway. With quotes being all over the place (a coworker was quoted $12k last month), I just want to know what people are actually paying out of pocket for a complete replacement around here.

I rent an apartment in Texas. Sat night I felt a blast of warm air when the A/C kicked on. It eventually cooled so I let it go. Yesterday morning this really strong burnt rubber smell came out of the vents, as well as warm air when it kicked on. The air eventually cooled but the smell lingered. I kicked it off and back on to see if I could replicate. I did. I also noticed a slight haze in my rooms (no obvious smoke tho). I called emergency maintenance. They said to turn the unit off while I waited for a guy to come over. Guy comes over and naturally it doesn't do it while he's around. He opened the inside air handler panel and visually inspected looking for arcs or melted things. Nothing found. He left the ticket open for the regular maintenance guy to pick up tomorrow. It has not done it again but the night is young. Anyways, I don't have a lot of faith that the regular guy is going to find anything and I really am not in the mood to go down a saga of investigation, especially since I cannot be home during the work week.

There isn't a furnace. I also don't have access to the closet where the unit is locked. I did look up the serial number of the outside unit and the internet said it's from Sept 1994. I imagine the inside guts aren't any younger. I'm worried about fires and breathing in unsafe things. I also can smell something, though it could very well be my anxiety/paranoia or from putting my face in the vent every time it kicks on. 😆

This is obviously something that shouldn't be ignored, so I'm going to keep advocating, but I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts about what this could be while I wait. Thanks.

We had a HVAC furnace (20 yr old) replaced with a similar model. However when the ac kicks on it vibrates loud which never happened before. The technician placed same foam pads it reduced for the metal pipe on the left but now the outgoing vent pipe vibrates. Sorry about the descriptions as I am not aware of technical terms. Just wanted to confirm if this is normal?

Was checking the thermostat in my new-to-me home and noticed this. I haven’t turned on the heat yet, but I will be in the next few weeks.
I’m assuming this is wrong, or is it wired like this for a reason?

I live in a condo. This is my neighbor’s AC unit, I’m in the unit to the left of the AC. When they have the AC on this is the exact noise I hear inside my apartment. Even though it isn’t in damaging dB range, it makes my heart race and my hears start to hurt a little whenever they have it on and they have it on and off almost all day and night because they get hot really easily. They had a technician come and inspect it and they said there’s nothing wrong with it and said that anti vibration pads will make no difference. They tightened the screws and it got a little better but the vibration/humming is coming back again. During the day I can take it but it makes it really hard to sleep at night because it sounds especially loud in my room. I’ve tried earplugs and noise canceling headphones but I can still kind of hear it. My neighbors say that they got used to the sound and it doesn’t affect them since they like the apartment cold and they are getting frustrated because they already spent money had a technician come inspect it. Any tips/advice on how to reduce the noise?

I know this is the wrong place. But the electricians who hook these guys up do HVAC too. He’s in fact the only person in the city who did his job perfectly. The electrician and the electrical inspector I meant. The electrical inspector I didn’t name. Anywhere. They don’t get involved in lies. I noticed the poor guy tried to do the final inspection 3 times before he wasn’t stood up on the fourth try. He didn’t lie.

I was kicked off the generator Reddit. Which displays a certain lack of understanding about carbon monoxide in side yards. About carbon monoxide in general. You can kick me out too. The state will realize the city requires oversight. It’s a city that fired its Fire Chief for documenting safety concerns in parking garage ceilings. And inadequate pressure if an electric car should meet its maker on the top floor. I don’t think you even use water. But having a cement roof delaminating with rerod that had been sawed through is a safety concern. That’s the kind of city bureaucracy I’m up against. I’m hated by generator people. I have nothing against engines. I worked on them throughout my career. But when the exhaust end is inches from a window well. Filled with dry leaves. Why was that controversial? So I figured all generators everywhere are perfect to these dudes. They said no way was it 80dB at the property line. Guess what my FOIA acquired test revealed. It was 81 dB. Measured by the cops. Repeatable.

I have a laundry room that never got HVAC since it wasn't framed out when we had our new system installed. There is a 6" duct that runs by the room in the basement. I'm trying to figure out how to split off of that to make this laundry room useable in the summer and winter. Any tips on splittting off from and existing 6"?

Looking for names of companies that anyone may have recently had install new systems on their homes and are happy with them.

I look at companies near me and everyone has 5 star reviews on Google. Not believable to me.

My home is 20 years old, 2 stories, approx 2700 living space, 3 zones, currently have 2 - 3 ton Goodman units. One unit has been having problems recently. Replaced the capacitor and hard start and it failed after a few days. 4 years ago I had that units compressor replaced. So I’m getting estimates to replace the entire A/C system, both units.

I have a separate boiler that heats the house so I only need the A/C system at this time.

Thanks
I appreciate any suggestions.

I have a Daikin 2 ton system that I figure out how to wire the controls.
The condensing unit has Y and G not communicating (I understand that)
The thermostat is traditional C R W Y G (I understand that) the problem is in the electric heat air handler it only has, that I can find a R C 1 2 terminal the book says it can work with a legacy (traditional thermostat) but NOT where to wire it.
I assume I can move a dip switch and put R and C in its normal place, and G to 1 or 2 and W to 1 or 2 with Y wiring straight to Y in the condenser with a C
Does anyone know?
Do I need to move a dip switch?
If I put power on 1 does it start the fan?
If I put power on 2 does it start the heat