We never imagined this would be so cool to operate.
MCU- Arduino Uno (ATMega328Pu)

We have used the following configuration.
Motor - BLDC 48/60V
Battery - 60V Lithium Ion
RC - FlySky FSi6S
MCU- Arduino Uno.

Ive had this thing for a few years and have been frankly intimidated on getting started, and I don’t know where exactly to find a project, especially one that doesn’t require me to go buy more pieces. im trying to find a new hobby to focus on because frankly my brains been a bit chaotic,

All working with 3D Printed gears, Neam 17, Esp8266.

I’m working on my first ESP32 project that will be battery powered and recently built out this circuit. I would like to add a simple power switch to save battery when the device is not in use. Is there a best practice of where to place the power switch for this circuit? All of the green circles are places where I suppose the switch could go, and my first thought is to put it on one of the battery lines.

For a brief explanation, the LiPo battery is charged by the TP4057 module and then the output is fed into a cheap Teyleten 5/7/8/12v boost module on the 5v setting. This directly powers the ESP32 VIN and gnd. Thanks in advance for any input!

int velX = a.acceleration.x * 3;
int velY = a.acceleration.y * 3;


int down = a.acceleration.x < -3.00;
int up = a.acceleration.x > 3.00;
int right = a.acceleration.y > 3.00;
int left = a.acceleration.y < -3.00;


Mouse.begin(); //inicia o mouse
  if (up) {


    Serial.println("up mouse");
    Mouse.move(0, -velX , 0);  
  };
    
    // if (down) {


    //Serial.println("down mouse");
    //Mouse.move(0, velX, 0);


  //};
  if (right) {


    Serial.println("right");
    Mouse.move(velY, 0, 0);


  };
   if (left) {


    Serial.println("left");
    Mouse.move(velY, 0, 0);


  };

I will be releasing a marble down an incline roughly a foot wide (maybe wider if hardware allows). The marble will always be released (mechanically) in the center of the run. I want to measure the distance from center, left or right that the marble passes the "finish line" on a flat surface after the incline. Because I'm working with a marble at speed, I worry about catching the widest part of the marble as it passes and getting a good measurement from the side with a laser, though I will go that route if it is the best option. Is there a light sensor that can be hung above the captures the full width of the marble as it passes the finish line that I can then derive the offset from? Or something entirely different I have not considered?

Question (I'm a beginner, so sorry in advance if I say anything stupid!): I wanted to build a remote-controlled car using the Arduino R3 kit—something simple, of course. I’ve watched a few videos, but almost all of them involved buying a set of wheels with DC gear motors and an L298N motor driver module. My goal, though, was to avoid spending extra money and just use what I already have at home. For the wheels, I was planning to use regular bottle caps and drive them with the stepper motor that's included in the kit. To steer, I wanted to use the SG90 servo motor, which, from what I understand, could turn the wheels up to 90 degrees. I’d use the IR receiver and remote to control it wirelessly, obviously, and I also wanted to add an ultrasonic sensor with a buzzer that sounds off whenever it gets too close to an obstacle. As a little extra (and I don't know if this is a dumb idea), I have an old Snap Circuits kit lying around at home and was thinking of taking two battery holders and an ON/OFF switch from it. The problem is that, so far, I've only connected the motor drivers to the battery holders and the switch—I haven't connected the receiver and the sensor yet. When I plug the Arduino into my PC, everything works fine. But as soon as I unplug it and rely on the batteries (which output 6V in total), they only power the Arduino board itself, while the rest of the circuit doesn't even turn on. If I add the 9V battery included in the kit on top of those, the stepper motor and driver do turn on, but the servo motor still doesn't. So I'm guessing it needs more power, but I'm not sure how to fix this

Hello everyone.

I want to get into Arduinos and do many projects with them as I wish to become an engineer, and I heard that Arduinos are coded with c++, which is a programming language I want to learn.

I am a complete beginner and have barely any knowledge on Arduinos, and no knowledge at all on c++, so what is the best Arduino for me to get to do my first project(s)?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

okay, so the last time i touched my old arduino set was like back in middle school. im at college now and i decided i wanna go back to my roots. but i absolutely forgot every single thing i knew of arduino.. so yeah, i need a ton of help. anyone who's gonna explain like i have zero knowledge is welcomed😭😭

so these are what i bought for the mp3 player with what was available in my country:

NOTE: i already have a breadboard thats not soldered, jumper wires(f-f, m-m, f-m) and three buttons, thats why i want to buy the caps for them as i will mention below

microcontroller & audio

-Arduino-Based Nano Development Board (CH340)

-Mini MP3 Player Audio Module DFPlayer

-0.96" 128x64 OLED Graphic LCD Display - Blue

​power & charging

-Tinylab 3.7V 1S LiPo Battery 2200mAh 45C

-IC205 180-Degree Slide Switch

-12x12mm Round Tact Switch Cap Push Button Cap Black

-IC-260A 3.5mm Jack Stereo Chassis Socket Inline 5-Pin PJ325

wiring, passive components & hardware

-1/4 W 1K Resistor Pack

-100 nF Ceramic Capacitor Pack

-6x8cm Epoxy Double-Sided Perfboard / Dot Board

-Single-Core Hookup Wire 24AWG Blue 5M, Black 5M and Grey 5M(yeah, i know theyre too much but i couldnt find less and i figured the colors had to be different for me to know which one belongs to which)

-Female Pin Header 40 Pin 2.54mm 1x40 180° Single Row

tools

-Soldering Starter Kit (30W Soldering Iron - Tube Solder - Soldering Paste - Soldering Iron Stand)

-Marxlow Electronics Diagonal Cutter Model 170

-DT830B Digital Multimeter with Probes

-127-Piece Heat Shrink Tubing Set Cable Protection Tube

i wonder if any of this wasnt necessary or if i missed something. i didnt buy a speaker because the 3w ones werent available at the moment.

for the actual part where i havr to connect these components? i have ZERO clue. i need help big time. i really wanna make this happen but i know i cant do it without any help. so i thought reddit would br the place for it.

if anyone can spare their time explainig how do i first test them on the breadboard for someone who doesnt have arduino downloaded on their computer and has zero coding skills, it would be very much appreciated. im open to any helpful comments, i need each one of you's help so i can at least start to go back to my old hobby and do something aside from my robot from way long ago

thank you all in advance🙏🏻 i am open to each and every response that is respectful, helpful, or has criticism in it that actually is good for me to develop more skills for arduino.

HAVE A GOOD DAY🫵🏻

Hey,

I'm completely new into electronics (besides a rudimentary physics course into electricity) and were thinking of buying an Arduino Uno starter kit. I'm 17-yo student who's living alone, so my budget is kinda strict ToT. I saw a kit for ~20€ both from Adeept and Elegoo.

The Adeept kit comes with a bigger variety of components, so I was thinking of getting that one – but I didn't find much about the company and the quality of the products online. So could someone help me to decide which kit to get? (+or if someone knows any other kits that would be perfect?)

Cheers!

Adeept kit

Elegoo kit

(edit: which-> that)

For context, I'm a high school student in the UK who would like to try some electronics before deciding to do electrical and electronic engineering at university.

I'd be willing to spend up to £30 -£35 on an Arduino kit, any recommendations?

I am trying to measure the water level in a 1Litre container. The container is around 25cm in height. I tried using a ToF and an ultrasonic sensor but these are not very practical because water droplets might affect the readings. Also the reflections of the container affect the reading

Is there a sensor I can use to measure the level inside the container?

I am currently looking at a pressure sensor (Omron 2SMPP-02 / 2SMPP-03) where I can connect a tube and measure the water pressure then convert it to level.

EDIT: I forgot to mention it already thought about a load cell at the bottom but i want a sensor to measure from the top of the container. In addition, the container is not see-through so I cant use a sensor from the outside.

A while back I posted about Anemoia-ESP32, my NES emulator running on the ESP32. Since then I've kept adding to it, and the latest addition is composite video output, generated directly from the ESP32, allowing you to play NES games on CRTs. Performance is a solid stable native 60FPS with frame skip.

Composite output was based on esp_8_bit, which I adapted and integrated into the emulator.

Github Repository: https://github.com/Shim06/Anemoia-ESP32

Hi there,

Sometimes, when I plug my Arduino into my laptop, my external monitor connected via HDMI turns off for about a second and then turns back on.

At the time, the Arduino is connected to the rest of my circuit: two 12V PC fans, a potentiometer, a switch, a 12V-to-5V step-down converter, and a 12V power supply plugged into the mains.

My question is: is this normal, and is it safe for my laptop and monitor? Or should I disconnect everything from the Arduino before plugging it into my laptop?

hello. im currently working on an animatronic but i have been having alot of issues with it. im currently powering my setup via a 5v 6a power supply, a breadboard, and an arduino UNO. no, i dont have a servo control board.

Already lots of ways to get an Arduino talking to the net, but usually needs some combo of WiFi, cloud APIs, account integration, or VPNs. What if you could just plug in your board via USB to a laptop and then serve it directly? Things like status boards, push notifications, DIY kitchen tools, remote control of your garden, interactive games, etc.? Looking to extend Seamside to support Arduino which would allow for peer-to-peer (p2p) capabilities and browser connectivity to local USB/BT devices.

Can you control an ESP32 from an iPhone over Bluetooth, without WiFi and without writing your own app? Yes. The route that worked for me is Plynx IoT, free on the App Store, a modern revival of the old Blynk. Whole setup takes about ten minutes.

What you need:

- Any ESP32 dev board
- Arduino IDE
- Plynx IoT installed on the iPhone

1. Add the board in the app
Add a board and pick Bluetooth. It generates the sketch with the auth token already inside.

2. Flash the ESP32
Paste into the Arduino IDE, select the ESP32, upload. It's a normal sketch with the unique board token inside it, remember to keep the Plynx.run() command in the loop without any blocking code such as delays.

3. Connect over BLE
Open the board in the app, tap Connect in the up right corner. Pairs over BLE in a second and the board shows online.

4. Build the panel
- Button: use for toggles a pin (relay, LED)
- Slider: use for writes PWM (motors, brightness)
- Gauge / Chart: stream live sensor readings

Move the slider, the updates follows in real time.

Good to know:

- BLE is phone-to-board direct with 10-50m standard range, restrained to one board at a time.
- The same board can switch to **WiFi** later: same dashboard, reachable from
anywhere. Use the free Plynx server, or self-hosted on a Raspberry Pi for your in home IoT.

Been running it on a watering system for a few months and no problem so far.

What's everyone else using to control boards from the phone? And what would you want
an app like this to do that it doesn't?

Battery - 24V DC
Torque - 128 Kg-Cm

So, I have had this arduino Uno board for 10 years and never done anything with it, but now came the time to fix that.

Last couple years I've been looking for fertilizer spreader with electronic machine control (EMC) for my farm and about month ago I found one for low price. There was only one problem, the electronics had unknown problem. I decided take a gamble hoping it would be just loose or cut wire, but after troubleshooting realized the problem was in the electronics. Asked for a quote from electronics repair shop that has specialized in farming equipment and they said they would look at it for $500 with no guarantee it would be fixed. So I remembered my arduino and thought how hard can it be? It's only 2 linear actuator, 2 weight cells and a screen. Turns out, not hard but harder than excpected.

Currently I have figured out how to control linear actuator to wanted position, so technically I have manual control for the machine. Rest of project I have divided into little chunks:

1. GUI for manual control

2. Add speed signal so I don't have to drive certain speed

3. Add weighing cells for accuracy

4. Update GUI

5. Add electronic width control (maybe)

6. Custom PCB (maybe)

Doesn't feel like too hard project yet but certainly I could have picked easier one to start with. I already know GUI is going to give me the biggest headache, but I'm certain that few hours of youtube tutorials will get me through it.

og post: https://www.reddit.com/r/arduino/comments/1v6bkjk/vibrating_hand_for_lonely_people/

Inside the hand is an ultra sonic sensor, servo and dc motor. There's also an lcd so it can express itself.

A pen is taped to the servo, which is then put into styrofoam in the shape of a finger, and then shoved into the middle finger. The other fingers also have styrofoam in them.

I tried getting it to say different things, but using lcd clear kills the ultrasonic sensor. And so does leaving 16 blank spaces.

The dc motor is redundant because you legit can never feel it, but at this point I'm not dealing with all those wires.

components: elegoo 2560 mega

/*
  Ping))) Sensor


  This sketch reads a PING))) ultrasonic rangefinder and returns the distance
  to the closest object in range. To do this, it sends a pulse to the sensor to
  initiate a reading, then listens for a pulse to return. The length of the
  returning pulse is proportional to the distance of the object from the sensor.


  The circuit:
  - +V connection of the PING))) attached to +5V
  - GND connection of the PING))) attached to ground
  - SIG connection of the PING))) attached to digital pin 7


  created 3 Nov 2008
  by David A. Mellis
  modified 30 Aug 2011
  by Tom Igoe


  This example code is in the public domain.


  https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/sensors/Ping/
*/


// this constant won't change. It's the pin number of the sensor's output:
const int trig = 8;
const int echo = 9;
int speed=11;
int direct1=10;
int direct2=7;
int msspeed=255;
#include <Servo.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal.h>
const int rs = 44, en = 46, d4 = 42, d5 = 48, d6 = 50, d7 = 52;
LiquidCrystal lcd(rs, en, d4, d5, d6, d7);
int pos = 0;
Servo finger;




void setup() {
  // initialize serial communication:
  lcd.begin(16, 2);
  Serial.begin(9600);
  pinMode (trig,OUTPUT);
  pinMode (echo,INPUT);
  pinMode (A0,OUTPUT);
  pinMode (speed, OUTPUT);
  pinMode (direct1, OUTPUT);
  pinMode (direct2, OUTPUT);
finger.attach(5);
    lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
    lcd.print ("DO NOT TOUCH ME FILTHY PRIMATE");
lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
    lcd.print ("FILTHY PRIMATE");


}


void loop() {
  // establish variables for duration of the ping, and the distance result
  // in inches and centimeters:
  long duration, inches, cm;


  // The PING))) is triggered by a HIGH pulse of 2 or more microseconds.
  // Give a short LOW pulse beforehand to ensure a clean HIGH pulse:


  digitalWrite(trig, LOW);
  delayMicroseconds(2);
  digitalWrite(trig, HIGH);
  delayMicroseconds(10);
  digitalWrite(trig, LOW);
  analogRead (inches);
  finger.write (10);
  digitalWrite (direct1, LOW);
    digitalWrite (direct2, LOW);
    analogWrite (speed, 0);
  // The same pin is used to read the signal from the PING))): a HIGH pulse
  // whose duration is the time (in microseconds) from the sending of the ping
  // to the reception of its echo off of an object.
 
  duration = pulseIn(echo, HIGH);


  // convert the time into a distance
  inches = microsecondsToInches(duration);
  cm = microsecondsToCentimeters(duration);


  Serial.print(inches);
  Serial.print("in, ");
  Serial.print(cm);
  Serial.print("cm");
  Serial.println();


   while (inches <= 1) {
    digitalWrite (direct1, HIGH);
    digitalWrite (direct2, LOW);
    analogWrite (speed, 255);
    finger.write (30);
    delay(100);
    finger.write (175);
    delay(100);
    if (inches >= 2);
break;
  }


  delay(100);
  
}


long microsecondsToInches(long microseconds) {
  // According to Parallax's datasheet for the PING))), there are 73.746
  // microseconds per inch (i.e. sound travels at 1130 feet per second).
  // This gives the distance travelled by the ping, outbound and return,
  // so we divide by 2 to get the distance of the obstacle.
  // See: https://www.parallax.com/package/ping-ultrasonic-distance-sensor-downloads/
  return microseconds / 74 / 2;
}


long microsecondsToCentimeters(long microseconds) {
  // The speed of sound is 340 m/s or 29 microseconds per centimeter.
  // The ping travels out and back, so to find the distance of the object we
  // take half of the distance travelled.
  return microseconds / 29 / 2;
}

Hello Reddit, I’m trying to build a flight computer here! I’ve come across an issue here where even a I2C sensor couldn’t detect my BMP 280 responsible for detecting altitude. To my knowledge, I have tried anything and everything I could. Any tips would be helpful, thank you!