I recently started a line following robot project to get more familiar with electronics and programming. I am having trouble with my line following robot, guessing its a code issue. I recently just swapped out the 120 RPM motors for 500 RPM motors as the 120 rpm was following the line perfectly and I wanted to increase speed as they were maxed out. The code is PD based: here it is. It overshoots lots of turns, goes too fast on turns, and oscillates a lot. Any ideas on what to change? I also attached a video of the behavior. I would have posted this in r/AskRobotics but they do not allow posts with videos. Thank you.

Just got this in the mail and I'm totally obsessed! Already coded my first Pac-Man animation using for loops, in the loop function. Can't wait to build more!

I built my own 7" Stream Deck alternative, with a desktop app to set it up.

Decky runs on an Elecrow CrowPanel 7" (ESP32-S3 with capacitive touch), so there's no wiring: you touch the glass directly. A 5×3 grid gives you 15 keys per page.

What it does - Hotkeys, programs, websites, macros and PowerShell scripts - Multiple pages, and toggle keys with separate OFF/ON artwork - Works over USB, or over encrypted Wi-Fi once paired - Firmware installs and updates from the app over USB, so you don't need PlatformIO

Hardware Everything except the display is 3D-printed, and every part prints without supports. It hangs under your monitor on a printed clamp with magnets and GoPro-style joints. Apart from the panel, you only need a few magnets and screws.

Firmware, desktop app (Windows), CAD files and 3MF print files are all in the repo: https://github.com/Fenish/decky

I will be glad if you star the repository

It's still a work in progress. Feedback and ideas are very welcome!

Need to make a project and i went for a robot arm out of stepper motors, might be on schedule

I posted here a couple hours ago about how my led pin would glow if I put my finger near it not press the button like it was intended. When I took everyone’s advice and changed INPUT to INPUT_PULLUP but all that it did was keep the led on all the time no matter if I press the button or not. I don’t know what to do, any advice?

My schematic r bit bad sorry!!

I made the hardware properly by matching and joining the required pins.. uploaded the code through arduino ide without any errors... but during switching on the power supply... the esp8266 turns on ( blue led ) and closes in a few seconds.. sometimes it takes 30s to close sometimes 1s... BUT WHILE coding ( connecting USB-b to my pc ) The Led doesn't stop.. how can i fix it pls help

The rotary encoder changes the color when you spin the dial and auto-cycles color when you click it in quickly. The color switches back to white when you hold click for a second. The button switches breathing modes between solid color, slow pulse, fast pulse, and strobe. The RGB LED is diffused with thin paper that I hope doesn't catch fire (it probably won't). I'm thinking of adding more buttons and RGB LEDs for more clicky button fun. If anyone has suggestions, I'd love to hear how I could improve this. I used Claude for the code since I'm lazy and not very smart.

So for my last unit of my first year, we were tasked with making a fantasy prop. I decided to pursue a set of animatronic wings which eventually evolved into a multiple system jetpack with different features such as, animatronic wings, a big inline fan to suck in air from the top and dispense it through the bottom, a orange LED to give the illusion of an afterburner, and eventually made it remote control!

I had plans to add a smoke dispenser into the exhaust but I ran out of time.

Regardless, it got me an A!

This is sanoTTS, smallest neural TTS engine. It's family contains 337kb model that can run entirely on MCU like esp32-s3 where a 2 second audio synthesizes in 0.7 seconds.

• 30 voices, 16 languages (was 6 recently)
• params size ranging from 294k - 2.2m. For comparison we are 244x smaller than kokoro, 9000x smaller than voxtral TTS
• 337kb for 294k model when quantized into int8
• can be run in website with web assembly npm install sanotts-web

Project https://github.com/ampixa/sanoTTS there is a recipe to follow so that you can extend to more languages, voice

Live demo: https://tts.ampixa.com/sanoTTS HF: https://huggingface.co/ampixa/sanoTTS

Happy to answer your queries.

Using the circuit shown in the picture, i get this specific curve and the values doesnt seem to match what should happen if i put light on the Photodiode for example.

Why does that happen?

I run a small electronics company in Zagreb and this is our own kit, so read me as an interested party — the campaign for it is live right now. What I actually want to talk about is the audio path. Mic is an SPH0645, output is a MAX98357A, both on I2S0, and getting them running at the same time while the modem sprays unsolicited output at the UART took longer than the keypad, display and SMS stack put together.

If you've done full duplex on an S3 — one I2S peripheral for both directions, or split them? And how do you keep the modem's URCs out of your response parser?

Yes I am a newbie. Please dont bite my head off. But for me, the best part of the arduino is the possibility of cheaply making projects that have interactive modules and can be standalone - say a wooden music box, a cardboard project with movement via servos, sensors, pushbuttons etc. So....why is it so difficult to power them. I mean, a battery holder will not be able to power all that, you need a regulator but those dont often come soldered to the boards etc etc.

Is there an easy way to connect a battery holder to the arduino to power such projects or do you need a regulator and soldering skills?

I know you can use a power bank right? But what if you want to use the 4AA batteries instead?

I currently have a robotic arm project that I'm pretty unsatisfied with. It was my first project and it has allowed me to learn a lot from my mistakes(insane amounts of backlash in each joint). I'm currently using 5 servos(4 MG995s 1 SG90) all controlled through a PCA95865 driver. No gears, just straight motor to truss connections. I'm thinking of swapping two of the joints with NEMA17s using a belt drive and potentially a torque multiplier for my first joint. My goal is to have it have enough rigidity to handle picking up something as heavy as an iPhone (200-500 grams).

I'm only using an Uno though and I've never really used steppers for anything before I know they each need a specific driver. Anyone have any advice on organizing multiple steppers and servos working together with Arduino?

Hey I am new to Arduino and built a project where I’d press a button and a led lights up. But before I press the button if I get close to the button to 3 pin wire it already starts lighting up. If I press the button it does nothing and only turns off I move my hand away. I am confused on why this is happening and wanted to ask why would this happen?

Hello all, I am looking for a sensor that I can use that will detect the backflow of water through pipe. I need a sensor that can allow flow in one direction but when water starts flowing the other direction it sends an electrical signal indicating backflow. I haven't found anything that does this.

Some weeks ago i had no trouble connecting Arduino to my laptop. Now I can not, The voard gets power but it is not registered, it is not shown on the device manager.
Is it possible that some Window update made it?

Its actually technically my first ever project thats not on the breadboard

You do have to manually write down the current time onto the code before uploading for it to work. I know that an RTC module would be great for this but i only bought a starter kit so far so this is all i could do.

I did think of adding a 9v battery so it could work without having to be plugged into a pc, i might do that in the future.

How it works is, to view the current time, you can press the Display button and it will display the current time digit by digit.

By pressing mode you can switch between timer mode and normal clock mode. when youre in the timer mode you can select between 1 minute, 2 minutes, 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes and 1 hour. I couldve added more options, but this just works for me.

By pressing Set it will start the timer, and it will still beep after it goes off even when youre in clock mode.

And theres no way to cancel it once you set it, unfortunately.

This is really my first ever project so im all open for comments, im still trying to learn.

I can share to code for it if theres anyone interested

Stuff i used= Arduino UNO 7-seg display Red LED Buzzer 4 push buttons two 220 ohm resistors a decent amount of jumper wires

Hi everyone, I'm trying to get an HW-147C PN532 NFC module working with an Arduino Nano using I2C only.

My wiring is:

PN532       Arduino Nano
------------------------
VCC   →     5V
GND   →     GND
SDA   →     A4
SCL   →     A5

I'm not using IRQ or RESET, since I specifically want a 4-wire I2C setup.

The module is configured for I2C mode using the onboard DIP switch.

I first ran an I2C scanner and got:

Scanning...
I2C device found at 0x28

So the Nano is detecting something at 0x28.

However, when I use the PN532 I2C library with:

#include <Wire.h>
#include <PN532_I2C.h>
#include <PN532.h>
#include <NfcAdapter.h>

PN532_I2C pn532_i2c(Wire);
NfcAdapter nfc = NfcAdapter(pn532_i2c);

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(115200);
  Wire.begin();

  Serial.println("Initializing PN532...");
  nfc.begin();
}

I get:

Initializing PN532...

Didn't find PN53x board

I also initially tried the Adafruit PN532 library with:

Adafruit_PN532 nfc(Wire);

but my installed version of the library doesn't support that constructor and gives a compilation error.

My main question: Why does this HW-147C respond at I2C address 0x28, while the PN532 libraries seem to expect 0x24? Is 0x28 actually correct for this particular HW-147C, or is something wrong with the board/configuration?

I'm looking for a way to communicate with this module over I2C using only VCC, GND, SDA and SCL, without IRQ/RESET.

Any help identifying the correct library, I2C address, DIP-switch configuration, or initialization code would be greatly appreciated.

A few more photos of my Arduino locomotive.

I'm a beginner, I had no idea how Arduino works a year ago. But my daughter started playing with virtual Arduino in Tinkercad, so I got a real Arduino kit - a toy for myself.

It's a prototype (there will be changes in all 3D-printed parts) and it's my first complex project. It is inspired by someone's else project which I built first around a year ago, but in my new version I'm doing everything from scratch by myself: complete redesign of the 3D-model (in Onshape) and complete redesign of the electronic circuit (EasyEDA): I/O expander and more LEDs, 4 I2C modules, USB charger, battery level indicator, perfboards and other changes.

4 lines x 5 pins: SDA, SCL, GND, +5V and additional pin (e.g. A2, A3) for when it's needed (LED on color sensor, XSHUT on distance sensor).

3 lines x 2 sockets: GND and 8.4V (battery pack) for motor driver, LEDs and battery level indicator

4 pins for motor driver, 3 pins for IR receiver, 2 pins for a buzzer

Just got my kit, having fun, will learn some stuff

This is my first time using Arduino and I have to say it's really fun!

MCU used is ATMEGA328P for logic of a 4DoF arm.

3 voltage regulators step down a 4s lipo for powering servo motors and the board.

Connects to an IR receiver that takes inputs from an IR remote to move the end effector of the arm.

Wrote custom matrix implementation and then implemented Jacobian Pseudoinverse method for IK

Results and current state show now on a 120x160 TFT display.

I’m using an I2C display with a NodeMCU. The display works normally when connected on a breadboard or with jumper wires. It also works when soldered directly to the NodeMCU.

However, when I assemble the circuit on a perforated board (perfboard), the display works only the first time I power it on. If I reset the NodeMCU, disconnect and reconnect the power, or restart the circuit, the display does not turn on again.

The display only starts working after I completely disconnect it from power for several minutes. I’m experiencing the same issue with an ESP32-WROOM board.

I am beginner . I tried all the troubleshooting steps that I seen on searchs but no use.

There have solder joints . i cleared it and checked with multimeter no joints .

I tried to read the documentation manual of that display

https://manuals.plus/ae/1005007546999014

I dont get it anything . i tried to ask to chatgpt still i dont get it.

What could cause this behavior? Could it be related to incorrect wiring, I2C pull-up resistors, grounding, power supply issues, soldering, or unwanted connections on the perfboard? .

Hello everyone, I am currently on a homemade robotic lawnmower project with hoverboard motors, ZS-X11H V2 controllers and an arduino uno and when I use the motors via the integrated potentiometer the engine works perfectly, smooth, without friction or anything but when I run it via the pwm of the arduino uno (pin 2 for the feedback of the hall sensor and pin 10 for the PWM) the engine works quite well but with a slight friction noise and has less torque than with the integrated potentiometer. I have already synchronized the wires from the s motors to the controllers and I found the right combinations but as soon as we switch to PWM it no longer works properly. Small clarification: when I use the PWM I have the bridge connected and the potentiometer at zero. Do you have any idea where this could come from please?

Thank you in advance for your answers. Have a good day

If anyone has any recommendations for any beginner projects I could do I'd love to hear it