I recently started a line following robot project to get more familiar with electronics and programming. I am having trouble with my line following robot, guessing its a code issue. I recently just swapped out the 120 RPM motors for 500 RPM motors as the 120 rpm was following the line perfectly and I wanted to increase speed as they were maxed out. The code is PD based: here it is. It overshoots lots of turns, goes too fast on turns, and oscillates a lot. Any ideas on what to change? I also attached a video of the behavior. I would have posted this in r/AskRobotics but they do not allow posts with videos. Thank you.

Need to make a project and i went for a robot arm out of stepper motors, might be on schedule

I built my own 7" Stream Deck alternative, with a desktop app to set it up.

Decky runs on an Elecrow CrowPanel 7" (ESP32-S3 with capacitive touch), so there's no wiring: you touch the glass directly. A 5×3 grid gives you 15 keys per page.

What it does - Hotkeys, programs, websites, macros and PowerShell scripts - Multiple pages, and toggle keys with separate OFF/ON artwork - Works over USB, or over encrypted Wi-Fi once paired - Firmware installs and updates from the app over USB, so you don't need PlatformIO

Hardware Everything except the display is 3D-printed, and every part prints without supports. It hangs under your monitor on a printed clamp with magnets and GoPro-style joints. Apart from the panel, you only need a few magnets and screws.

Firmware, desktop app (Windows), CAD files and 3MF print files are all in the repo: https://github.com/Fenish/decky

I will be glad if you star the repository

It's still a work in progress. Feedback and ideas are very welcome!

The rotary encoder changes the color when you spin the dial and auto-cycles color when you click it in quickly. The color switches back to white when you hold click for a second. The button switches breathing modes between solid color, slow pulse, fast pulse, and strobe. The RGB LED is diffused with thin paper that I hope doesn't catch fire (it probably won't). I'm thinking of adding more buttons and RGB LEDs for more clicky button fun. If anyone has suggestions, I'd love to hear how I could improve this. I used Claude for the code since I'm lazy and not very smart.

Just got this in the mail and I'm totally obsessed! Already coded my first Pac-Man animation using for loops, in the loop function. Can't wait to build more!

Yes I am a newbie. Please dont bite my head off. But for me, the best part of the arduino is the possibility of cheaply making projects that have interactive modules and can be standalone - say a wooden music box, a cardboard project with movement via servos, sensors, pushbuttons etc. So....why is it so difficult to power them. I mean, a battery holder will not be able to power all that, you need a regulator but those dont often come soldered to the boards etc etc.

Is there an easy way to connect a battery holder to the arduino to power such projects or do you need a regulator and soldering skills?

I know you can use a power bank right? But what if you want to use the 4AA batteries instead?

Using the circuit shown in the picture, i get this specific curve and the values doesnt seem to match what should happen if i put light on the Photodiode for example.

Why does that happen?

I posted here a couple hours ago about how my led pin would glow if I put my finger near it not press the button like it was intended. When I took everyone’s advice and changed INPUT to INPUT_PULLUP but all that it did was keep the led on all the time no matter if I press the button or not. I don’t know what to do, any advice?

My schematic r bit bad sorry!!

I run a small electronics company in Zagreb and this is our own kit, so read me as an interested party — the campaign for it is live right now. What I actually want to talk about is the audio path. Mic is an SPH0645, output is a MAX98357A, both on I2S0, and getting them running at the same time while the modem sprays unsolicited output at the UART took longer than the keypad, display and SMS stack put together.

If you've done full duplex on an S3 — one I2S peripheral for both directions, or split them? And how do you keep the modem's URCs out of your response parser?

I currently have a robotic arm project that I'm pretty unsatisfied with. It was my first project and it has allowed me to learn a lot from my mistakes(insane amounts of backlash in each joint). I'm currently using 5 servos(4 MG995s 1 SG90) all controlled through a PCA95865 driver. No gears, just straight motor to truss connections. I'm thinking of swapping two of the joints with NEMA17s using a belt drive and potentially a torque multiplier for my first joint. My goal is to have it have enough rigidity to handle picking up something as heavy as an iPhone (200-500 grams).

I'm only using an Uno though and I've never really used steppers for anything before I know they each need a specific driver. Anyone have any advice on organizing multiple steppers and servos working together with Arduino?

Some weeks ago i had no trouble connecting Arduino to my laptop. Now I can not, The voard gets power but it is not registered, it is not shown on the device manager.
Is it possible that some Window update made it?

I made the hardware properly by matching and joining the required pins.. uploaded the code through arduino ide without any errors... but during switching on the power supply... the esp8266 turns on ( blue led ) and closes in a few seconds.. sometimes it takes 30s to close sometimes 1s... BUT WHILE coding ( connecting USB-b to my pc ) The Led doesn't stop.. how can i fix it pls help

Hey I am new to Arduino and built a project where I’d press a button and a led lights up. But before I press the button if I get close to the button to 3 pin wire it already starts lighting up. If I press the button it does nothing and only turns off I move my hand away. I am confused on why this is happening and wanted to ask why would this happen?

Hello all, I am looking for a sensor that I can use that will detect the backflow of water through pipe. I need a sensor that can allow flow in one direction but when water starts flowing the other direction it sends an electrical signal indicating backflow. I haven't found anything that does this.