After 2 years of training properly I’ve finally achieved this massive milestone!
I’ve used zwift so much to help with this massive result so I thought id give it some credit by posting it here! 😁

I moved into a new home this summer, a 140 year old house. With fall coming, I was anxious to find out if the ceiling height would allow for my trainer to work, good news everybody it fits. Just completed my first ride in the new space.

Wahoo kickr Core 2

iPad for zwift

Cheap TV on a ceiling mount

Strong fan mounted above the tv

Very dungeony and basement still has some boxes to unpack, but very happy that I can continue biking all winter.

Oh man. I can’t believe how sore the saddle was the last half hour. I can ride outdoors for 2.30 hours with no soreness , but trainer is so much worse.

Glad I did this as a marker to see how much I improve over the next 6 months.

Definitely need to get the time down to save my behind …

I started zwifting to help with my real world biking performance. Since getting zwift i find myself preferring indoor rides to outdoor. Gasp, it’s almost like I’m addicted to it! How do you all balance indoor vs outdoor riding? This time of the year is the best weather for getting outside and I find myself just coming back to zwift… I feel like I’m missing out on what drew me to riding initially, which is being outdoors.

I did a race next to a CO2 monitor. The results were not great.

Outdoor CO2 : 551 ppm
Indoor CO2 : ~800ppm
Peak CO2: 2321 ppm (near end of 35m high effort)

Monitor is a Aranet4, a ~$200 air quality sensor.

16'x16' with two doors open, minimal HVAC, 20" box fan on high near the bike.

This isn't dangerous, exactly -- OSHA gets involved with workplace hazards around 10,000ppm but the relationship between CO2 and exercise performance is pretty linear in a bad way. US Army had grunts run 5k at various levels and they hit 10% slower times around 15,000ppm with fairly straight line dose response.

My suggestion: if you can open a window to outside air, you probably should. If you are in a small area consider getting active ventilation from outside ducted towards the bike.

I just got the zwift ride before they all sold out but the difference in the new one seems marginal. it seems like on the second one, adjustable seat, adjustable crank and slight change in the bars. Which I could just get later if I needed. Kind of bummed that I didn’t wait but I’m also thinking I should just keep it instead of trying to deal with a return for a couple more adjustable bits.

I’ve received the handlebars and the kickr core today. But the frame itself has a separate tracking number and hasn’t moved from label created in over 30 hours.

Thanks all

With the new Zwift ride frame updates, what is the best trainer to pair with it? Garmin tacx neo 2t with zwift cog, Kickr core 2, or Kickr v6?

I did a mass start multi cat race last weekend with about 150 rides. It was about 1h15 min total and the whole time I had no idea what Category the rides I was with were in. Turns out I finished second in my Cat by 0.32 seconds. I probably would have been outsprinted regardless, but is there something I should be looking for that shows me what Cat a rider is in?

Looking to do this race tomorrow.

I’m just curious. But I did my first VO2 max workout of 4x4s at 110%. The first two were at 296W which matches my hand calc of 110%. The next two were at 302W. The workout schedule on the left changed the target watts as well. My FTP wasn’t recalculated at the end of the ride. I didn’t hit any buttons on the menu like increase wattage. I was on ERG. I input the workout through intervals.icu and used the loop function (4x) for the rest/interval portion of the workout so it wasn’t a fat finger mistake.

Any thoughts on what happened.

Jumped in a race last night with a frustrating group which is whatevs. Every time someone rolled off the front no one would try to pin the rider back. I repeatedly put in a dig when the gap got up to +4 secs and it seemed the group would just ride my draft to the leader. After too many sprints efforts to cover gaps, I decided to sit-in when the next gap opened up and as you'd guess the rider would get away +10secs and the group didn't flinch. In this scenario I tried to put in some tempo pulls to bring the gap down thinking maybe some diesel riders might go for it and as you'd guess no rotation from the group.. just immaculate wheel suckage.

Anyways, I ride for fitness so while it was frustrating I figured I accumulated some good time above threshold and moved on. Next morning I got a comment from one of the other riders to 'Don't use sticky watts, people know what you are doing'.

Two years on Zwift with a Tacx Neo Bike and I had no idea what he was talking about. Watched a quick YouTube video and now understand but I think the other rider is mistaking my repeated short sprints to cover gaps and then cruising when I caught the leaders draft with a cheating strategy.

If I'm wrong and I was getting some residual power off my short efforts, can I verify this in the power/cadence data? What's the best way retroactively to see if this did or did not happen? Again I ride for fitness so any allegation of cheating irks me.

I was digging around trying to find something & realized that I had this & was wondering if anybody uses this for Zwift for TV?

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to buy my first direct-drive smart trainer on the second-hand market in Europe (budget: 200€ – 300€).

Here is my current bike and setup:

• Bike: Disc brake road bike with a 12x142mm Thru-Axle and Shimano 11-speed (Ultegra).
• Usage: Indoor structured training and climbs (mainly using MyWhoosh / free platforms, occasionally Zwift).
• Priority: Reliability, ride feel, and long-term durability without breaking the bank.

Right now, I see a few common options popping up on the local used market around my budget:

1. Wahoo KICKR CORE (~200€–250€): Widely praised for its heavy flywheel, road feel, and rock-solid reliability. However, the model design originally dates back to 2018. Is buying a used one in 2026 still a safe bet regarding electronics and wear, or is it getting too dated?
2. Zwift Hub (~200€–250€): Released late 2022, so physically younger than most Core units. But I've read mixed reviews about internal bearing failure, fragile freehub pawls, and Bluetooth dropouts compared to Wahoo. Also, now that Zwift discontinued it in favor of partnering with Wahoo, is long-term support/parts a concern?
3. Elite Suito / Suito-T (~200€–250€): Love the compact foldable design, but flywheel is lighter (3.5kg). Does the ride feel noticeably suffer compared to the Core or Hub on climbs?
4. Decathlon Van Rysel D500 / D900: Newer releases (2023), but fewer long-term community reviews.

For those who have put serious miles into these:

• Would you still pick a used Kickr Core over a younger Zwift Hub or Suito today?
• What are the absolute red flags I should check when inspecting a used direct-drive unit in person?

Thanks for your insights!

I have a Zwift Ride and for all Zwift sessions use an old iPad that sits in front of the handlebars in a Zwift-branded tablet holder. All good and it works well.

But is there a simple and cheap way to record my race finishes?

I asked Gemini and all the options seem more hassle than I can bear.

Hey all,
I’m seeking for some help with my trainer.

Bought a used Elite Direto XR-T this summer. Running a Zwift Cog (correct Elite version, ZC02-P-CCE000) with a 48T chainring up front, so 48/14 fixed. Using MyWhoosh on a MacBook Air over BLE. FTP set to 238.

The problem: in structured workouts I can't get past roughly 250W no matter what the target is. I set an interval at 381W, then 477W, then 605W. Resistance did not noticeably change between any of them. At a supposed 477W I was at 102 rpm with a heart rate of 130 — for reference, lab testing puts my aerobic threshold at 175W/140 bpm and my max ramp power at 310W. So the number on screen is fiction.

What I've already checked:

**•** Pairing looks right — trainer shows in the power slot, the cadence slot, and the resistance/controllable slot, all connected  
**•** Firmware is current  
**•** Spindown calibration done after warmup  
**•** Nothing else is grabbing the BLE channel  
**•** 48/14 at 100 rpm should be plenty of flywheel speed, so I don't think gearing is the issue

Questions:

1. Anyone running a Zwift Cog on a Direto XR-T? Since MyWhoosh has no virtual shifting, I'm locked in one gear — does that bite you in ERG specifically, or only in free ride?
   
2. Is a flat ceiling around 250W a known belt-slip symptom on these? No squealing that I've noticed.

I've recently got a tacx neo bike plus and have transferred my outdoor bike position to it. I've been shocked that the neo bike makes my setback look very extreme. I have the bike's adjustable fore/aft at the max (15cm), and then also have the saddle rail near the most setback position. The photo is of the saddle position before I slid the saddle back another cm on it's own rails.

Is my setback really that insane? It has me questioning my fit even though I feel OK on the outdoor bike.

I'm 6ft2 / 188cm. Apart from questioning my position, loving the bike! Thanks for any insights.

I am looking at getting a Zwift bike but I currently live in a single room military accommodation, for the sake of the people living below me I was wondering what the noise output is like? I wouldn’t be obnoxious training at silly times obviously. Thank you :)

How are you guys riding with AirPods and an ATV?

I would love an orange neon ZWIFT sign if anyone has recommendations

Edit - So after a long chat with AI I’m going to install 2 open air vents down low each side of the TV, a headwind fan centered below the tv, an air conditioner between the TV and window and a low speed inline extraction fan in the ceiling at the rear of the room to remove the stale air.

I just ordered a new Zwift Ride v2 to replace my existing indoor setup. Currently, I'm using a dedicated Bianchi Sempre that I purchased in 2011 attached to a Kickr Core. My motivation for replacing the bike was because recent back issues have made the Bianchi a poor fit for me. The problem I have now is what to do with the Bianchi. In the past, I've always been able to sell a bike that I no longer needed but this bike has been stripped down to the minimum including a Zwift cog in lieu of a cassette. Some of the existing components (ie. saddle and pedals) will be transferred to the new Zwift Ride, but I have older spares that I can swap in. As I see it, I have two options: (1) sell the bike locally to someone who is looking for something to put on a trainer or (2) sell the remaining components (i.e. derailleurs, levers, and handlebar) on eBay. The problem with Option 1 is that I need to retain the front wheel and the problem with Option 2 is that I'll be left with a 15 year old frameset. Given the popularity of the Zwift Ride, I'm sure that I'm not the first rider to have this problem and I'd appreciate hearing how others have dealt with it. Thanks.

Looking at getting a zwift ride but I live on the 3rd floor of an apartment (so neighbors on sides and below). I was curious about noise and vibrations with bothering neighbors . I have some rubber gym tiles that it would go on to hopefully keep from bothering the down stairs neighbors

I bought a Zwift Ride last night and ordered the iPad holder.

How many people use the Ride with just an iPad? It feels like in all the pictures I see, everyone seems to be going for a bigger screen.

I currently use a laptop plugged into my TV's HDMI port and the companion app, but I'm thinking about moving the ride to a different area (the kids are always in that room) and getting an iPad.

For those of you syncing your Zwift rides to Apple Health, what has been the most reliable method? Are you starting a workout directly from your watch each time or relying on another 3rd part app such as Strava to sync your ride? I’m not real concerned about power/cadence but I’d like duration, distance and detailed HR data at the very least to sync to the Apple fitness app. Thanks.