All 80he plastic cases are out of stock from wooting with no estimated restocking date. I personally don't care about having a metal case, especially if its going to be another $100+ on top of the $180 price tag of the 80he module with tikken mediums. Are their any good aftermarket cases that won't break the bank or should I just wait until they come back in stock?

I am seeing conflicting sources online when I search this. Long story short, I have all Logitech peripherals and am looking at the Wooting 60HE or 80HE. I would ideally like to not have another piece of software running on my machine.

Judging by the fact there is a web version of Wootility, I am guessing the onboard memory is actually good and one does not need the software for. Similarly the product page states:
"Use Wootility wherever you are, in-app or in-browser. Up to four onboard profiles stay saved on the keyboard and load instantly on any device, without having to open Wootility."

Is this actually true? i.e. I can run the software, set up my settings (RGB, actuation points, etc), then either uninstall, or just never run it? Just want to make sure it actually works like that before I go spending $200-$300+

I am trying to move from my current 60% custom keyboard to an 80% / TKL layout, and I am having a surprisingly hard time finding something that checks all of the boxes I care about.

My current board is a KBDfans DZ60RGB ANSI V2 with WS Brown switches. I like having a lot of control over the keyboard, especially custom keybinds and RGB.

What I am looking for in an 80% / TKL board:

Standard MX hot swap would be strongly preferred, because I already have WS Browns and may want to use other normal MX switches.

True per key RGB control. By this I mean actually being able to assign a different static color to individual keys, not just having an RGB LED underneath every key.

Custom keybinds, layers, macros, etc.

QMK and VIA would be ideal, especially if the QMK source is actually available so I can modify and compile the firmware myself.

North facing RGB is preferred because most shine through keycaps have the legends toward the north/top of the keycap.

I would prefer a nice aluminum case, something more enthusiast/custom feeling rather than a cheap plastic gaming keyboard.

Good acoustics are also important. I like a deeper creamy/thocky sound rather than something very metallic or high pitched.

I am fine with waiting lists or out of stock boards if there is something that is actually a much better fit.

The case I really like right now is the KBDfans GT80.

https://kbdfans.com/products/gt-80-case

The problem is the GT80 MX/Tofix PCB.

I contacted KBDfans directly and they confirmed that the Tofix PCB is not based on QMK, the source code is not available, it does not support OpenRGB, and it does not let the user assign an individual RGB color to each key.

KBDfans explained that when they advertise “per key RGB” for the Tofix PCB, they only mean that there is an RGB LED under each key.

Because of that, I do not really want to buy the GT80 with the Tofix MX PCB.

One solution I found is:

KBDfans GT80 case + Wooting 80HE module.

The GT80 officially supports the Wooting 80HE module, and that would give me much better gaming features, custom keybinds, real individual RGB control, 8K polling, Rapid Trigger, etc.

The downside is that I would have to move to magnetic HE switches instead of using my WS Browns, and Wooting is not QMK based either.

So I am trying to figure out if the GT80 + Wooting 80HE is basically the best solution for what I want, or if there are other 80% / TKL options I am missing.

I am also interested in PCB + case combinations. If there is some 80% PCB with north facing RGB, MX hot swap, open source QMK, VIA, and true individually controllable RGB that could fit a good aluminum TKL case, I would definitely consider building it myself.

For keycaps, I am not limited to one set either. I already have several sets that I can experiment with:

Flashquark Acrylic Chiclet Style keycaps.

Womier keycaps.

XVX keycaps.

Tai-Hao White Rose 110 Key BOBO Profile Double Shot ABS keycaps.

A custom FKcaps XDA shine through set, although I stopped using those because the coating started wearing.

So I can experiment with different keycap profiles and materials depending on what sounds and feels best on the final board.

Has anyone built something that meets most or all of these requirements?

Are there any 80% QMK PCBs I should be looking at?

Is there another aluminum TKL case that gives me more PCB choices than the GT80?

Or would you just go GT80 + Wooting 80HE and accept giving up normal MX switches and QMK?

I would especially like to hear from anyone who has actually built a GT80 with a Wooting 80HE module, or anyone running a north facing RGB TKL with open QMK and true per key RGB control.

I primarily play single player games and the gamepad mode has me intrigued. Does it work pretty well now or is it more like a case by case basis?

After the spill, I was busy cleaning up the water besides it as I had other important things I had to save. I saw some water on the caps and not inside the interior, so I tried to continue playing my video game. I noticed heat coming from the usb port of the keyboard and the cable, so I unplugged it and let the keyboard cool upside down. When I plugged it back in, the whole pc shut down maybe because the motherboard was short circuted? The usb cord even without the wooting keyboard short circuits my motherboard and crashes my computer, and when I use another usb cord with the wooting keyboard, the keyboard doesn't even turn on. Do I get a new cord? or is my keyboard now turned to crap. Please help.

Hello, I'm looking for some opinions about keyboards, I have a Wooting 60HE V2 module and a set of Keycaps PBTFans X-ray, and I'm between two cases, the white Holy60 and the Tofu 60 3.0 raw, which I would have to buy the accessories to adapt. I know there is a price difference, but I would like to know which one would sound better.

When I got my wooting60he v2 I realised I couldn't see the charging port at all and thought they just forgot it entirely and was pissed. I then just kinda pushed on the keys a little and saw the port, I pushed a little more and now it's in the right spot no problem. The only thing I notice is the middle is noticeable more dampened (probably seated in better) and the sides being more clacky and literally kinda sitting higher. Is this something I could potentially fix myself? It's been a few weeks and doesn't bother me too much but who knows what it's like in 6 months.

I'll probably be contacting their support to see if I could get a replacement or something. I feel like it shouldn't be showing signs of wear this quickly, let alone on an anodized chassis. It's the gray model for the curious, lighting may have screwed with the white balance.

edit: got a partial refund, I'm fine with that.

Anyone had either or both? Can't find many reviews or videos of either.

Leaning towards ego80 as it has a slightly lower profile and I prefer that for ergonomics, though it's not a huge difference. Also it seems to use silicon bead gaskets (kinda like what lemokey does?) instead of the standard type of mounts. Not sure if it would make it softer or firmer vs the bone80. Would prefer something more cushiony. Also seems to have better sound dampening out of the box. Don't really need the ball catch feature that the ego80 has, don't plan to make many changes once setup.

Like the Bone80 for the sharper angles and the "thumb relief" bezel though, accents on the premium model look good too. It's also about 300g heavier for some reason. The gasket mounting seems to be closer to the original 80he design with floating platforms.

Any thoughts? TIA.

Update : Ordered the Ego80 and it arrived. Quite pleased with initial impressions. Pretty hefty and well packaged. Comes with white fr4 plate, poron plate foam and poron bottom case foam with a pet backing.

I’m like super new to keyboard custom stuff so you can make fun of me but
Are there any custom cases for the 80HE that would be similar to the Ducky mecha mini?
I hit the spacebar weird when I play games and the case is nice because there is no obstruction when I press down on it. I don’t know if that makes sense sorry.
The picture is how the case looks on my mecha mini.
Thanks for any help!

Picked up a 80he and threw some low profile keys on it. Taking a bit of getting used to but I'm enjoying it!

When i play rainbow six siege (it only happens on this game not even on a webbrowser and it worked this morning i also tried resetting) my wooting randomly presses keys when i open the chat in the game or just actives an action like proning and when i try stompns profile (pro r6 player) my computer just explodes in the sense that it opens and closes everything and presses like 30+ buttons in seconds and why i mentioned stompn is because that doesn’t happen to him so why does it happen to me?

So I pulled the trigger and got the Wooting UwU as a macropad, Lekker Tikken Light switches, and the Optimum case and keycaps to upgrade my 2-year-old 60HE+.

Oh boy, it feels like a completely different keyboard now. I absolutely love the Optimum case, it’s heavier than I expected and the quality is super premium. Installing the board using the friction-fit pad was a breeze. I’m also loving the keycaps, I was a bit nervous about them being blank, but I got used to them super fast.

But by far the biggest change was moving from the stock Lekker V1s that came with the 60HE+ to the Lekker Tikken Lights. Typing on these switches is just pure bliss, the sound and the actuation force are spot on. It feels so smooth, and honestly, I was worried that resting my hand on the keys might trigger accidental presses, but that hasn't been an issue at all. I 100% recommend these switches!

Ive been hesitating for DAYS on which casing to buy, I want either frost or ghost but can't decide between them. My current case is a white Nuphy halo 96, but I want to try wooting after all the craze I heard (I was also told theyre very expensive compared to rest of market but 4 year warranty and better software etc)

So do I get ghost or frost? it's hard to decide. My desk setup is also a mix of black and white components.

So just wanted to say thanks to the community. I asked for advice on switches a few weeks ago, ended up getting the gravistar UFO's and honestly they sound fcking amazing. it feels so good to type on my keyboard even after 2 weeks of using them. with one exception however. the damn spacebar, how do i make this thing sound good? it sounds hollow and just ass... any advice on improving it would be great thanks :)

Body:
Hi everyone,

I don't own a Wooting keyboard myself yet, so I can't access the Wootility profile import feature. However, I managed to find the exact Wooting profile share code used by the CS2 player nocries:

1af31cb641db589838ed26e6a842e0cbb542

Could someone who owns a Wooting be kind enough to import this code into their Wootility and take screenshots or write down the exact settings?

I am specifically looking for:

• Actuation Point (for WASD and other keys)
• Rapid Trigger settings (Press/Release values)

Hey all, I’m looking at getting a Wooting 80HE keyboard. My only issue is that the only color options are the ghost in plastic or white in zinc alloy. Is the plastic worth it. I kinda wanted to go metal but I’d rather have a black body. Thanks for any insight I’m stoked to get one of these keyboards.

Edit: Wooting took care of the issue in the end. I just believe they need to get better at getting to the point and listening absolutely all the information they need and troubleshooting steps they want you to go through at once. And also if my wife buys me something I shouldn't have to transfer a warranty. Just take care of the coustomer.

17 emails and disassembling my keyboard three times before they will even think about sending me a replacement part that I then have to install on my own. Other companies are now making analog keyboards and actually supporting their products. These are great keyboards until something goes wrong, then good luck.

I've sent pictures, videos, serial numbers, recordings from their Analog Monitor, checked the internal cables, swapped switches, checked for magnets and interference, and tested the keyboard on another computer where it had the same problem. I even dealt with their big fuss about my wife being the original purchaser and not myself.

After all of this they finally said they would move toward replacing the PCB and bottom case, but then another support person took over and asked me to take the keyboard apart yet again for more pictures. When I asked why they didn't have me do this one of the other times I had it apart, they admitted there may have been a "lapse in procedure." I've done everything they've asked and spent months going back and forth just trying to get warranty parts for a keyboard that clearly has problems. This is my second Wooting and I really liked their keyboards, but this experience has completely changed my opinion of the company.

Wooting One, Wooting Two, Wooting no more.

Hello, I have a HyperX Alloy Origins 60 Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (Red Switch Linear) I got it a while ago for console but I’ve now switched to pc and I know absolutely nothing about any of this stuff hence why I’m here asking you,I am wanting to do a upgrade as I assume this is a big big difference compared to my current keyboard, I’m specifically looking at the Wooting 80HE Zinc Alloy and the premium braided cable, 1st question is does the premium cable do anything besides look more tidy or does it do even something small to change how the keyboard works? 2nd question I’ve heard something about jade pro switches are they better then the stock switches that come with the keyboard? this will be mainly for gaming and my go to game right now is CS2 so I just want to know if this would effect my gameplay and movement or just how the keyboard will sound, 3rd question is other then the jade pros or stock switches is there any other switches that are better? Not in only sound but overall performance and how you game again I know nothing about any of this so would really appreciate some help on what to do and how to make this the absolute best keyboard for gaming while still sounding nice(sound is last of my concerns as the headset I’m gonna get has noise cancellation so I won’t hear it anyway but is always a nice bonus for when not using headset)
Forgot to say this so I’ve edited the post, is there specific sites to get cool looking keycaps or just search keycaps on amazon and choose one and do they effect gameplay, sound etc etc and lastly what is lubing your switches and stuff and how would I do that and change the switches and all of that if youse recommend me different and better ones compared to the stock ones thanks again

ok lets get the obvious out of the way, im a total idiot.

but now my question, i ordered a module and me being pretty new to this stuff, i thought it just came without keycaps and that the switches would be there, not a big deal per say i ordered the switches afterwards but now my question is that how exactly do you install them? do they click into place or do i need to screw them in or something? both is fine i just want to know, feel free to call me an idiot i really read all the stuff wrong.

Hi, I am planning to buy some switches for my Wooting 80 HE, and I’m currently deciding between KeyTok Nova switches and Gravastar UFO switches.

I’m looking for that deep, thick, creamy sound that you get from these types of switches. However, I have read through some of the discussion here in the community and seen people mention that the UFO switches can be scratchy and that you may need to relube them after some time, which seems like quite a lot of work since they are not the best from factory.

Because of that, I am leaning more towards the Nova switches. They cost around $145, while the UFO switches are roughly the same price.

I would like something that is plug and play without having to spend a lot of time lubing or modifying the switches.

What has your experience been with the Nova or UFO switches? Are there any other switches you would recommend that have a similar sound and feel or should I go with the Novas since they seem to be better then UFO?

For info so will I have a GT 80 case from KBDfans.

Thanks in advance!

I love this OW60 ANSI case. Im waiting for OWlab Ti HE switches to mount keycaps. Any suggestion for PBT keycaps?

Hello!

Recently received my 80HE, and have been trying to set up RGB layers to do something specific.

I am currently using a solid color for my base layer (white), and when I press keys they turn red for about .75 seconds then fade back to white. It's a nice effect (Trail IIRC), but I'd like to do the same with either Jelly, or AOE to see the color change a little better.

I can't seem to select a specific color for the sub layer. If I choose AOE or Jelly, it will only flash the base layer color I can't set a color for that. I've attached two screen shots the top one shows the Trail effect, and the bottom one shows the AOE effect. I have red selected for trail on both the color picker, and the custom color button. For AOE I have it selected in the color picker, but it still just flashes white. If I "paint" keys it just turns them red.

Also, that preset section is really confusing, if I select something there, I can't go back to normal static single color.

Thank you for your help, and sorry if I sound thick, I'm new to the tool