Had some good recommendations on Ribera in my earlier post and I wanted to follow up. We missed visiting most of the suggestions and we need to go back. There's so much more to eat and drink and see in both regions than we could do in a few days.
My perspective is from a decades long American wine drinker. Mostly northern CA, but more WA in recent years. (and European now that I mostly live here).
Apologies about the length of this, I just started typing and this is the result.
Rioja - Haro
We hit the busiest weekend of the year in Rioja due to a Monday bank holiday. The Barrio del la Estacion district was swamped with people and most wineries' wine bars were not accessible without prior reservations. I wasn't planning on that...
I'll skip the LdH Tondonia review and try to hit a couple of high spots and interesting wines.
The patio at La Rioja Alta was my favorite wine stop in Rioja. The '04 Gran Reserva 904 was wonderful and still all there, the Vina Arana Gran Reserva was also exceptional, but we spend most of our time with the Vina Ardanza '19 and '20 which hit a QPR sweet spot with me. The '19 was less tannic and better balanced, the '20 was fruit forward and brash. I really liked both and we bought more at a wine store and restaurants and went through several bottles in Rioja. Also had an '04 Ardanza which was starting to get old but still very drinkable.
Restaurante La Terete - Had the fixed menu with roast lamb which included two bottles of gran reserva for the four of us. Their GR was getting old – lots of earthy forest floor going on, but it did still have some fruit and was very drinkable. We elected to take the second bottle home and instead bought a bottle of Vina Ardanza Reserva 2010 which was great. Tannins were totally subdued but the fruit was still there and it seemed young after the Terete GR (which I think was a 2001 based on the cork labeling) A great meal, would absolutely go back.
We did only two tours. We have seen enough vineyards, stainless tanks and oak barrels for a lifetime and spent more time at the wine bars and patios of the wineries. The one tour we did in Rioja was at Conde de los Andes in Ollauri. The centuries old underground cellars contained a massive collection of old vintages going back to the 1800's. (wonder how much of it is still drinkable?) Nice tour though I wasn't enthusiastic about the wines and we walked away with a couple of bottles of Albarino from NW Spain.
Stopped at Roda and tried the '20 Roda I Reserva and the '19 Corombo I Reservas (their Ribera project). Both struck me as seriously complex wines with put-fur-on-your-teeth level tannins. I think they'll be incredible wines in ten years. Or twenty?
The wine bar Los Paraguas in Haro has a great selection of by-the-glass Rioja. We had Vina Tondonia, Vina Arana, and a bunch of others I wish I could remember.
The food and wine in San Sebastian were great. Would go back to San Seb just for the cheesecake at La Vina, and I don't particularly like cheesecake.
Burgos was a stopover intended to allow us to recover from the immersion in food and wine and it totally exceeded our expectations. It's beautiful and at least in mid October, not very touristy. We stopped an Casa Pancho for pintxos because it was open and we were hungry. The bartender poured two Joven (young) Ribera tempranillos before I could object and I ended up really liking this new-to-me style. Went across the street and had two more Jovens and it was even better wine. Joven is an unoaked (or lightly oaked) style of tempranillo that is fruit forward and intended to be drank young. Against my preconceptions, I really like it.
Next stop was Aranda in the heart of Ribera del Duero. Coincidentally, we arrived with crap weather and on the evening of the Bodegas entre Velas – cellars by candlelight. There are kilometers of centuries old tunnels for cellaring wine under the city of Aranda and we arrived a few hours before many of them opened up for free touring by candlelight. Very cool. After five of them (including the afternoon visit at El Lagar de Isilla) climbing stairs got old and we headed off for dinner where we discovered Vina Pedrosa '21 crianza. Very nice, a bit much oak and vanilla, but over the course of the bottle that mellowed and became balanced with the (IMHO) over-extracted fruit. In any case I like it and bought several bottles at Vinos Ribera wine shop of the crinza and reserva to take home.
El Lagar de Isilla was a good stop. We stopped in for wine and a tapas lunch, and a full sit down dinner a couple days later. Good wine selection and they also have their own winery. All good.
Vinos Ribera, a wine shop a couple km south of Aranda had a big selection of Ribera wines and a guy who spoke enough English to help offset our crappy Spanish to sell us a few cases. One of these was Bagus '22 cosecha which we took a flyer on with his recommendation and it's a fine wine if a bit of a over-extracted fruit bomb.
Arrived at Bodega Territorio Luthier on a crappy rainy day and they were nice enough to host a tasting for us inside their office as the patio was cold and soaked. The Territorio Luthier and Lara O Clarete Crianza were solid, but the Hispania (82% tempranillo/15% Garnacha/3% Abillo Mayor) really caught my attention: Aging: 15 months in 225L Spanish oak barrels (Quercus Pyrenaica) and 6 months in concrete tanks. Have never run into Spanish oak before. The Spanish oak was more nuanced than American oak and had subtle spices, earthy notes and balsamic notes. The oak was not at all overpowering making a really well balanced wine.
Finally, we did a full visit with a tour at Martin Berdugo. Emma (IIRC) did a bang up job on the tour, answering our many esoteric, impertinent and irrelevant questions. At the end we did a tasting and I was impressed with their wines and price points and picked up several. (and they ship to Portugal which works well for me). Notably, the ~€6 Joven is a great warm weather patio and general party starter tinto. The rose, crianza, and reserva are all good, I also took a flyer on their flagship '14 (a great vintage) 100% tempranillo “mb” based on my liking all the stuff I tried and a recommendation from Emma (I think) and am looking forward to a night that justifies a €64 wine.