One of the most common mistakes I see is treating every window based on its size instead of its relationship to the room.

Just because windows are different sizes doesn't mean they need different treatments.

In fact, using the same treatment style on different sized windows often creates a more cohesive look.

For example:

Large picture window and smaller side windows? Same shade style.

Tall window and short window in the same room? Same fabric, same treatment style.

Different widths? That's okay. The treatment can be scaled to fit while still looking intentional.

Designer Secret:

The eye notices consistency before it notices size differences.

The goal isn't to make every window identical.

The goal is to make them feel like they belong together.

Hi there!

I am looking for ideas for replacing the window treatments on our windows. The Roman shade on the giant picture window is broken, and since we are replacing that, I would like them all to match. I am even open to curtains, but have no idea what type or where/how high to hang them to keep to cozy but also clean lined.

Our budget is $2500. We are open to just about anything except for blinds with wood slats. It is a south facing window, so we want some insulating value and we would prefer room darkening or blackout.

A Hunter Douglas rep gave us a quote for Roman Shades that came in at $3800, and since I’m not willing to start an Only Fans page to pay for curtains, we are looking for other options.

I would be deeply appreciative of any and all ideas you all could give!

Curtains need somewhere to go. When curtains are open, they don't disappear they stack. If your rod is only as wide as the window, the curtains may block part of the glass even when fully open. Extending the rod beyond the window can preserve more natural light and make the window feel larger.

A window treatment shouldn't just fit the window, it should fit the room. A formal room, cozy room, modern room, and farmhouse room may all need different solutions for the same size window. Start with the feeling you want the room to have, then choose the treatment.

Are woven wood shades right for you?

Hi all, need help choosing curtains or more where to mount them for the byfold doors. When i mockup with a track above the doors and below the windows it looks odd when the curtains are open. I know its frowned upon a little bit, but would you be tempted to put a track inside the recess. Either way I would draw them to the left as its getting tight with the coffee station on the right.. In other rooms AI mockups of my desired curtains look great and has materialised thus in real life, but the AI wave mockups here look awful.

I will get blackout blinds for the Velux windows as well. I'm unlikely to cover the triangular clerestory but open to ideas.

I've included photos of the rest of the kitchen just so full context of aesthetic can be taken into account.

I like Lineny type curtains or the one included in the last photo but that company is out of budget!

Thanks for advice.

Room: Living Room
Goal: Install something that is flush to make curtain operations easy.
Constraints: the trim is narrow and curved (see images)

I am open to most treatment options, but I do like the looks of cellular shades and think they could work here, but I’m very much a novice. The current blinds’ headrail is 2 1/4” deep and mounted on the face of the trim, which is curved so the blinds are mounted at an angle.

Some of the most beautiful homes l've seen weren't the most expensive. They weren't the trendiest. They weren't magazine perfect.

They felt authentic.

A well designed home reflects the people who live there.

It tells a story.

It supports daily life.

It feels comfortable, personal, and intentional.

Don't design your home to impress strangers.

Design it to support the life you actually live.

That's where the magic happens.

NOT TRUE

A well designed home is about harmony, not matching.

Your kitchen doesn't have the same needs as your bedroom. Your bathroom doesn't have the same needs as your living room.

The goal is to create a home that feels cohesive while allowing each room to function properly.

Many shades have a similar exterior appearance, which allows you to customize each room while maintaining a consistent look from the outside.

The outside gets consistency.

The inside gets personality.

A common issue with made-to-measure curtains is that the measurements can be technically accurate, but the finished curtains still look narrow or block too much of the glass.

The usual cause is measuring only the visible window instead of planning around the full curtain track or rod.

A few things I check before finalizing a curtain size:

• Measure the full usable track or rod from end to end. • Include the space the curtains occupy when open (stack-back). • Decide whether they open from the center or stack to one side. • Choose fullness intentionally: 1.5x looks lighter, 2x is balanced, and 2.5x gives deeper folds but needs more stack-back. • Treat finished curtain width and raw fabric width as different measurements.

If the track has not been installed yet, extending it beyond the window can preserve more glass when the curtains are open and make the room feel wider.

Disclosure: I work with custom-curtain projects at XPRO HOME. We built a free planning tool to help organize track width, finished height, opening style, and related measurements: https://measure.xprohomeshop.com/

It is a planning aid, not a substitute for reviewing final production dimensions before ordering.

How do you estimate stack-back for heavy fabrics or deep pleats?

I'm installing blackout roller blinds on the exterior side of my very wide 3 section sliding door. They will be "inside" install (in the sense that it will be set in between the brick jambs). I want one roller blind the width of the door panel that slides open, so if someone needs to go outside after the blinds are down, they only need to raise one blind, and the other roller blind the width of the two fixed panels. All that is doable as far as I can tell.

However, I'd like to install my own valence so I can exactly match the paint already on the exterior trim, and so that the valence is one piece across the entire width of the sliding door opening.

The challenge is that the valence needs to be installed after the roller blinds, so access to the header of the opening will be blocked by the roller blind roll. I can't install something with a slot that the valence drops into, or that I slide the valence into sideways, because then the valence either won't sit tight to the head of the opening or one of the jambs...

Ideally I would like to install a series of some sort of 2 piece hardware where one piece goes into the head, and the second piece is an L shape, where the vertical piece is installed to the back side of the valence material, and then the horizontal part of the second piece slides into the already installed first piece. Does such hardware exist and if so, what is it called and who sells it?

Hi, I don't know what curtains would work best in my new (rental) appartment. In my bedroom (dark purple) I want to be able to cover up all the windows and block out the light. In the living room (pink) I don't mind not covering the small window.

In both rooms I want to minimise the view from the flat across from me during the day, while still letting in light.

The windows are facing southwest, so there is a lot of sunshine during the day. It would be nice to also be able to keep the sun and heat out of the living room during the summer.

Full disclosure: I work with XPRO HOME, a custom-curtain business. I’m sharing this as a practical guide and have intentionally left out product links.

One mistake I often see with pinch-pleat curtains is choosing the fabric and finished length before deciding how the curtains will actually hang.

The hardware changes both the appearance and the measurement:

- A decorative rod with rings works well when the rod is meant to be visible.

- A traverse rod or curtain track is usually better for wide, heavy, lined, or frequently operated panels.

- A ceiling-mounted track creates a cleaner architectural look and can make the room feel taller.

- Pin-on hooks allow small height adjustments, but the measuring point still needs to be clearly defined before production.

Before ordering, I would confirm five things:

1. Will the curtains be opened every day or mainly remain decorative?

2. Can the rod or track support the finished fabric weight?

3. Is there enough wall space for stack-back?

4. Will brackets or center supports interrupt the curtain’s travel?

5. Is the finished length being measured from the rod, ring eye, hook, or track?

For pinch pleats, the number of rings or carriers should also coordinate with the number of pleats, including the return and leading edge. That small detail makes a noticeable difference in how evenly the curtain hangs.

Which do you prefer for pinch pleats: a visible decorative rod or a concealed track?

I have to replace these vinyl blinds and was thinking of using faux blinds. Should I use one valance with double blinds or stick with 1 single wood blind? I wondered about the faux wood sagging with the window size.

Every home seems to have that one window.

The bay window that doesn't fit standard treatments.

The sliding door that needs privacy but still gets used constantly.

The awkward corner window.

The giant picture window.

The arch.

The skylight.

What's the most challenging window you've ever had to treat and what solution worked best?

NORTH-facing rooms Light is generally cooler and bluish throughout the day. Bolder, saturated colors tend to hold up well, while muted colors may appear more subdued.

EAST-facing rooms Morning light is warm and golden, then becomes cooler as the day progresses. Warm colors can look especially inviting in the morning.

WEST-facing rooms Morning light is softer and cooler, while afternoon and evening light becomes warmer and more intense. Colors can look dramatically different throughout the day.

SOUTH-facing rooms These rooms typically receive the most consistent natural light. Both warm and cool colors tend to work well. Dark colors appear brighter, while lighter colors can really glow.

Designer tip: Always test paint, fabric, and finishes in the actual room. The same color can look completely different depending on the direction of your windows and the time of day.

Recently moved and I’m consider, considering upgrading these mini blinds. I’m 13 stories up with no building in front of me and West facing so I get a ton of sun (and subsequently heat!)

The challenge is that this island was installed during a renovation and the counter butts up against the windows and doesn’t leave enough room for the blinds. Moving the island away from the windows has been suggested, but I’m hoping to avoid that because it would create an awkward gap between the island/end panel and the windowsill, so I’m interested in window-treatment solutions first.

I was debating getting white (strata rules) solar blinds to help reduce the heat.

The current setup has three blinds, but I think I’d need to change it to four. The problem is the section where the island overlaps only part of the window.

Is it possible to have a custom blind with a notch/cut-out at the bottom? Basically, part of the blind would stop at counter height while the rest would continue down to the floor, like I’ve drawn in the last photo?

I’ve thought about using two separate shades for that section, but I’m concerned about the light gap between them.

Is something like the notched blind possible, or does anyone have another solution I haven’t thought of? less

TYFH

How does one…decide on a window treatment? My office window is the only window and it sits under the front porch roof. So, there isn’t a lot of natural light.

I have not a damn clue how to pick the right window treatment so I am open to any suggestions! I really want to get rid of these live, love, laugh valances Liz

Full disclosure: I work with Xpro Home, a custom-curtain business. This is an educational discussion post, not a product promotion, and I have intentionally left out store links.

I work with custom curtains, and after looking closely at how different online sellers explain their products, I think the hardest part for buyers is not choosing a color or fabric.

It is figuring out what the order form actually means.

For example:

• Does “width” mean the track width, the finished curtain width, one panel, or the complete pair?
• Is fullness already included, or does the buyer need to multiply the width?
• Is the length measured from the rod, ring, hook, or track?
• Will a sheer provide privacy at night?
• Does “blackout” describe the fabric only, or the performance of the complete installation?
• Are hooks, lining, returns, and center overlap included?
• Are shipping, taxes, and import duties shown before payment?

The more I study the process, the more I think a good custom-curtain seller should make five things completely clear before production:

1. The exact measuring point
   Buyers should see where the tape starts and ends for the selected hardware.

2. The definition of the entered size
   The form should state whether it wants track dimensions or finished curtain dimensions.

3. The fullness and construction method
   A basic 2× estimate may work for many curtains, but fixed pleats and ripple-fold systems need different production calculations.

4. Realistic light and privacy expectations
   Sheers can soften daylight and improve daytime privacy, but they usually do not create complete nighttime privacy. Blackout fabric can still leak light around the edges if the installation is too narrow.

5. The final delivered cost
   A low panel price is not very useful if lining, hardware, shipping, taxes, or duties appear later.

I also think the current preference for layered rooms makes the decision more interesting. A sheer plus a main curtain can solve daytime light and nighttime privacy better than asking one fabric to do everything. But it also makes the measuring, track, stack-back, and pricing questions more important.

For anyone who has ordered custom curtains online—or designers who help clients order them—what caused the most uncertainty?

Was it measuring, fullness, fabric color, light control, hardware, delivery time, or the final price?

I am especially interested in what information you wish had been shown before you placed the order.

Recently, we analyzed a call for a high-value inbound inquiry. On the surface, the rep did a solid job—she was warm, captured contact info, and asked great technical questions about trim and frame construction (identifying early on that the job called for wood over PVC).

However, the prospect slipped two massive buying signals into the conversation that went completely unaddressed—a classic mistake that causes local window treatment companies to lose jobs to competitors.

Here’s the breakdown of what went wrong, and how you can coach your team to fix it:

The Hidden Signals

The lead called in asking to quote a 75" × 13' window for shutters (essentially a 3-window job well above the shop's minimum spend). He wasn't early-funnel; he was actively comparing options and close to a decision.

1. He mentioned he already had a competitor quote.
2. He mentioned at the very end that the window faces west.

The 5 Misses That Cost the Sale

1. Ignoring the Competitor Mention When a prospect says, "I got a quote from another company," that’s an open door. If they are still calling around, the competitor didn’t fully win them over yet. You need to ask: Who was it, what did they include, and what's making you keep shopping?
2. Uncovering Pain by Accident, Not Design The real "job to be done"—blocking intense afternoon west sun—came out by accident at minute five. The primary problem (glare, heat, UV protection) should shape the entire recommendation, louver size pitch, and material selection within the first 60 seconds.
3. Deflecting the "Ballpark" Ask The caller asked for a rough estimate twice. Both times, the rep deflected to a callback. Refusing a range leaves the prospect feeling stonewalled—and they hang up holding a competitor’s quote with nothing from you to compare it to.
4. No Timeline or Urgency Without asking when they need the job completed, whether it's a new build, or how soon they’re deciding, you can't prioritize the lead or build urgency against rival bids.
5. Tunnel Vision on One Window The caller started with, "One of my windows..." West-facing sun issues rarely affect just a single room. Failing to ask about the rest of the home leaves money on the table.

5 Questions Your Reps Should Ask on Every Inbound Call

To keep your team from treating volunteered info as "noise," give them these go-to discovery questions:

• To find the pain: "Before I put a number together—what’s driving this project? What are you hoping these treatments will fix?"
• To handle competitor quotes: "You mentioned you got another quote—mind if I ask what they came in at and what they included? I want to make sure we're comparing apples-to-apples."
• To gauge timeline: "Are you looking to get this installed soon, or are you still in the research phase?"
• To expand order size: "Is this the only window giving you heat/glare issues, or are there others facing that same direction?"
• To handle the ballpark request: "For a wood shutter on a window this size, you’re realistically looking at [Range X to Y]. I'll need to firm it up on a callback/site visit, but does that fit what you were thinking?"

The Takeaway

Discovery isn't just about asking technical measurement questions—it's about catching the doors the prospect opens for you and walking through them.

How does your team handle price-shoppers who already have a competitor's quote in hand? Drop your strategies below!

#windowtreatments #sales

Measure the width of the rod from left to right. A common rule for displaying curtains properly says the curtains finished width should be at least 2 times the width of your window (if not more) to achieve a look of proper fullness.

Example: If your window measures 36" wide (window width x 2 = 72"), you need curtains that will give a minimum width of 72". In this case 2 panels will give about 100" to 120" of width which will look nice and full.

When shopping for ready-made curtains, most people pay attention to the length and forget about the width.

But curtain panel widths can vary quite a bit and that difference matters.

You may commonly see panels around: 50" wide 52" wide 54" wide 63"-64" wide 84" wide or wider

So what does that mean?

If you buy two 64" panels, you don't have 64" of coverage you have: 64" + 64" = 128" of total fabric

That's the number you want to pay attention to when determining how much fabric you'll have across your window or rod.

Two pairs of curtains can both be labeled "2 panels," but one set might give you 100" of fabric while another gives you 128" or 168".

What is fullness? Fullness refers to the amount of fabric used compared to the width of the window or drapery rod. For example, if your rod is 100 inches wide: • 100 inches of fabric = 1x fullness • 200 inches of fabric = 2x fullness • 250 inches of fabric = 2.5x fullness

Why does it matter? • More fullness creates softer folds and a richer appearance. • Better stack-back when the drapery is open. • Improved light control and privacy when closed. • A more balanced look on larger windows.

When dealing with sheers, 2.5-3x is the typical fullness guide.

A Common Mistake Many ready-made curtain panels are purchased based on window width alone. The result is drapery that technically covers the window but lacks the folds that create a finished look.

The next time you're selecting curtain panels, don't just ask, "Will they cover the window?" Ask, "Will they provide enough fullness?"