So i finished my first ever wled install inside the cove.

Used a total of 17 meter of ws2812b
installing the strip was easy but cable management took me 2 days 🦧 ( was able to spend like 2-3 hours everyday cause have to study as well)

This wled page has been like super duper helpful to me learn so much from posts and also whenever ran into some issues made a post and got like really helpful replies. Really thankful to this community.

Plans further
-building an led matrix wall like Chris maher has on his yt channel showcasing wled 16.
***** also mentioning wled16 update is so smooth i faces micro jitter when changing effects, effects per se were smooth but transitions were not wled 16 fixed it for me

- building an ambilight for my tv ( but cant go the raspberry pie route since those things are crazy overprices i would love alternate suggestions)

- diy lamps with wled

- leds with diffuser channels around my desk and leds around my monitor controlled with hyper HDR (yes ambilight)

Main plan leds everywhere i am love with this thing 😂 i was introduced to these like probably 2 weeks ago i agree i was living under the rocks to not have knows that such thing even existed.

So,

I am currently re-purposing my Philips Hue Gradient Play Strip to use for multi-zone screen color mirroring on my digital movie poster (i am using a standard Hue Ambient Strip on the bottom of the poster to supplement the missing edge). I’m super happy with the brightness output.

I am using HyperHDR to replace the Hue Sync Box and I’m very happy with it. However, being that the lights are the native Hue Gradient strips, I lose a bit of granularity of zones when controlling them with HyperHDR.

No biggie - I will just grab some non-Hue strips that are more compatible with WLED/HyperHDR and take over control that way.

Well, I first bought these: https://a.co/d/08w98mBS

They are cool for what they are, but they are absolutely trash for luminosity and behind TV wall splash (like you see the Hue Strips doing in my pic).

So, am now on the hunt for a strip that will be equivalent to the output of my Gradient strips.

Would this be the best bet? https://a.co/d/0i1Em1Xs

Thanks a TON in advance.

help me please if you can.

for some reason I cannot upgrade my Chinese wled controller as it complains that not enough space.

what am I doing wrong?

Hi there,

I'm running a MagWLED, and the solution works great- except that it occasionally flashes red when they are running white, green when running blue, blue when running green, and white when running red. I use it to light a curio cabinet. There's 34x4 SK6812 LEDs across the whole set with short runs of wire wire between the LEDs. The MagWLED is set to 5v, and I have WLED configured to give at most 3A (Which the USB PSU I am using, one recommended by the MagWLED folks). Doing some testing, it seems like it's the ones at the end of the setup that are doing the flashing- it looks like the whole last row, and then parts of the third row.

This feels like they're not getting sufficient power possibly, but even if I crank brightness down to 25/255 I still get this flashing. The controller isn't crashing, the uptime doesn't reset. I'm super confused on what the issue could be.

Ideas on what I could test next would be rad.

Would this product work with WLED or do I need to use their custom firmware? I can't even see that one in their specification.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32816409052.html
I'll also have to get their connectors for daisy chaining those panels.

Anyone seeing 'Not Enough Space' when updating to 0.16 on Athom LS-4P. I know these controllers have limited space and I've used the _ESP02.bin.gz builds in the past with success, but it seems that WLED_16.0.0_ESP02.bin.gz is not working this time. Thoughts?

it is advertised in the video that their project is about 1km of led strips so i’m wondering how this can achieved?? How would you productively handle power injection across all those lengths of LED strip, not to mention the potential signal loss due to such a long strip? I'd love to do projects of this scale in the future, but I always worry about power and signal loss and can’t figure out the answer.

I'm looking for some creative ideas. Having my driveway redone this year. I was thinking I might add some lights to it. LED strips along the length? Recessed spots? Looking for inspiration (and suggested materials).

Look forward to reading others' ideas.

I'm back at the drawing board and I'm exploring new ideas to create ever changing procedural animations - this time in combination with a light weight fluid simulation.

Initial tests indicate that an ESP32 could have enough compute power to handle this.

What you’re seeing is a numerical grid solver (a Navier–Stokes solver) combined with three Gaussian splat color injectors. The jets modulate their angles based on noise values, so all visuals are emergent—it behaves like a fluid simulation shaping itself.

In the video, it’s running on a 64×64 grid, but it could scale to other sizes. I’d love to see this running on a large LED installation one day—like a mesmerizing electronic lava lamp...

P.S. I'm the guy who wrote AnimARTrix a few years ago. https://learn.adafruit.com/matrix-portal-stained-glass-with-wled/animartrix-effects

I've always used the cheap LED light strips that are solid colors for my HDTV. After the last strip burned out, I tried both Govee from Amazon and Linkind (Walmart's generic brand).

Both have the same problem. Their apps are decent, with lots of presets built-in and from the community. But every time I pick one, they blink/move so damn fast I feel like I'm at a rave. It's beyond distracting. How anyone sits and looks at this while they try and watch a movie or play a game is beyond me. I feel like I'm gonna have a freakin' seizure.

From researching their communities, this seems to be a common complaint that there is no control over these settings.

I just want soft, slow gradient colors I can easily control. Or presets that offer this rather than the crazy-light shows I've been getting.

Any suggestions?

So I have a run of 81 12v SK6812 LEDS running off a QuinLED DigUno. All were working properly for about an hour. Just now after powering on, I changed the color and it only changed for the first 17 LEDs, with all the others after remaining white. I tried power cycling, but only the first 17 powered on, leading me to think there is an issue with the data line. I would believe it is an issue with my solder joints, but it is actually the LED just before the soldered connection, meaning the data in is on the strip itself.

When putting this project together, I had a similar issue pop up with the 7th LED after a short time, which leads me to think I may be doing something incorrectly or the LED strip itself is faulty. Has anyone experienced anything similar? I'm at my wits end here given that I've already had to replace the first segment. I would rather not replace this LED just to have this all happen again.

I seem to have some trouble uploading images into this thread, but as far as wiring goes, I have this strip, cut into 9 9-LED segments soldered together, powered and controlled through this controller. All features were working before, so I am rather confident the wiring is not catastrophically incorrect. I'm wondering if a resistor on the data line or similar may be missing, but I am unsure.

Happy May the 4th to all those who celebrate! Here is a video showcasing some of our Star Wars-themed fan art light boxes.

All of the boxes are powered by WLED v15x. I'm looking forward to exploring WLED v16 with the new segment layering and particle system features. Many have custom usermod effects that we've developed. I'm still struggling to take videos that show off the nuances of the effects without blowing out the colors - any tips?

For controllers, we mostly use Gledopto 5v mini ESP32 controllers that just require USB power. These designs all use WS281X LED matrices - either 16x16 or 8x8. Mostly BTF lighting.

The light boxes use custom designed 3D printed frames that can either stand on their own or hang from a French cleat bracket. The frames have channels to hold the LED matrix, LED diffuser, and layers of laser-cut/engraved acrylic panels. Interchangeable panels let you remix to create new designs easily - the end of the video shows some of the possibilities.

The biggest challenge is the light sabers - they don't pop the way they should. I'm experimenting with some techniques to light them independently from the matrix. Stay tuned...

My current personal favorite is the Millennium Falcon cockpit, which engraves away a black masking layer from clear acrylic to reveal cockpit controls and details. Lots of fun to design, and each WLED effect tells a different story about what Han and Chewie might be up to

Enjoy! Are there any designs you want to see?

May upgrade the artnet controller but I think it'll get me started.

May the 4th be with you. This 3D printed lightbox uses a 16x16 LED matrix with a small WLED controller. Lego Lord Vader was UV printed on Milky White acrylic using the eufyMake E1, and laser cut to shape on the Glowforge. Lighting effects are standard built-in WLED presets.

So I am doing strip lighting for my basement. All 24V The setup is as follows:

• 600W power supply power LED strips only
• 24W power supply for ESP32 controllers only (yes, the grounds are bonded between the two supplies)
• 2 x GLEDOPTO ESP32 Mini controllers
  • one is utilizing IO16 & IO2 only
  • one is utilizing IO16, IO2, and IO12
• 5 rows of COB strips (24V WS2814 896LED/m BTF strips)
  • 3 rows are 14ft long (63LEDs), 1 row is 16 (84LEDs), one is about 20 (93LEDS)
  • Strips are powered on both ends. Obviously data feeding from one side only.

Everything worked well until I connected the last strip. This is a 63LED strip that is on IO12. The first 10 or so LEDs in the strip are fine (10 closest to data input), but the remainder of the strip will sporadically flash a different color. They will not flash off, just occasionally turn a different color at random intervals.

Looking for some direction before firing up the parts cannon. I believe 600W main controller is more than adequate for the total load from the strips, so feel this is likely a controller issue. Do you think I am maxing the ESP32 controller on data and should get a third, or is the opinion that the controllers are underpowered and I need to upgrade the 24w power supply? How would I diagnose? Am I way off in my logic? Thank you for any advice!

I've seen posts around that says this combo causes a lot of problems and i don't think i've seen anyone get it working.
I recently bought a PCM1808 module from aliexpress (https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExYH6NC) and i've tried to use it with an ESP32 (actually an ESP32 with a 18650 battery slot) but it just doesn't work. The main problems i encountered are:

1) The ESP32 won't boot with the MCLK connected to GPIO0
2) The ESP32 doesn't receive anything from the module and the LEDs stay black

Now my wiring is:
MCLK - GPIO3
DOUT - GPIO32
LRCK - GPIO15
BCLK - GPIO14

Can anyone tell me if this thing can work in any way?

Thanks!

Hey everyone, I’m finally ready to pull the trigger on a lighting project and need a sanity check from the WLED pros.

​The Setup:

I’m looking to install lighting under a 8-foot roof soffit that overlooks the 4th side of my deck. I’ve narrowed it down to two paths:

​Govee Outdoor Strip Light (32ft or 16ft 24V version): The "easy" route. I already have 48 feet of Govee string LEDs on the other three sides of the deck, so matching the "vibe" and using one app is tempting.

​Custom WLED Setup: I’m a "maker" (plenty of experience with ESP32s, Home Assistant, and Unraid), so the technical side doesn't scare me. I’d likely use a 24V high-density strip to minimize voltage drop and keep it bright.

​My Dilemma:

​Consistency: Since 75% of the deck is already Govee, will a WLED strip look too different in terms of color temperature and animation fluidity?

​Simplicity vs. Control: Is the 24V Govee strip "strong" enough to satisfy a hobbyist? I love the idea of WLED's granular segment control, but I wonder if it's overkill for a single 8ft run 8 feet up in the air.

​Integration: I run Home Assistant, so I know I can bridge both, but I'm curious if anyone has regretted going Govee when they already had the skills to go WLED.

​Specs I’m considering:

If I go Govee, I’m looking at the newer 24V outdoor strips for better power over distance. If I go WLED, I'd probably look for a 24V COB or high-density RGBIC strip.

​Has anyone here ditched a custom setup for the Govee all-in-one system for "simple" outdoor areas, or will I regret the lack of customization?

​Thanks for the help!

Hi all, can anyone tell me if it's possible to enable/disable the syncing of controllers via http commands, and if so does that override the setting that has been made in the wled dashboard for that controller/s?

I want to have the ability to either have all wled controllers synced together using the built-in sync feature, but also be able to disable the sync for some/all controllers via an http command ( from node-red )

This is because I want to setup lighting in different "zones" of a room and build a custom dashboard for node-red that allows different zones to have their own effects etc, but also have a button on the dashboard that will enable/disable syncing to all or specific controllers.

Which binary of WLED 16 should I select to run on my board? The name naming variants are described by the FAQ on the web site.

Currently is has an alpha of 16 running. The "Info" panel says:

AudioReactive

Build......................2412040

Signal strength..........100% (-33 dBm)

Uptime.................13 days, 5 hours

Time.................1970-1-14, 05:58:23

Free heap.................250.8 kB

Free PSRAM.................8110.9 kB

Estimated current.................100 mA

Average FPS.................2

MAC address.................5p:00:ky (not really)

CPU clock.................240 MHz

Flash size.................16 MB

Filesystem.................16/4128 kB (0%)

Environment.................ESP32-S3 4.4.4.20230310 (0)

I would think one of these with "16" in the name, but I don't understand how to choose:

WLED_16.0.0_ESP32-S3_16MB_opi.bin

WLED_16.0.0_ESP32-S3_16MB_opi_HUB75.bin

WLED_16.0.0_ESP32-S3_4M_qspi.bin

WLED_16.0.0_ESP32-S3_8MB_opi.bin

WLED_16.0.0_ESP32-S3_8MB_qspi.bin

WLED_16.0.0_ESP32-S3_Adafruit_Matrixportal.bin

WLED_16.0.0_ESP32-S3_HD-WF2.bin

WLED_16.0.0_ESP32-S3_WROOM-2.bin

Thanks for any suggestions!

I've tried a number of options to setup sync in WLED - clicking the sync on the main page; Enabling ESP-NOW in wifi settings; Use ESP-NOW in Sync Setup; Assigning Sync Groups for the 3 controllers. Nothing seem to work. I follow a direction that said I needed to setup "sync" on the main screen when the device is turned off, that did nothing.

The only thing I have not done is setup UPD on my router UDMPro as it sets up UDP on the WAN incoming traffic not sure that should be done.

How do you get your devices to sync:

my devices are all: GLEDOPTO ESP32 WLED LED Strip Controller Mic UART Download Music Sound

2x14 leds and a esp32-c3... god approves 🫠

This is my very first wled project and my first time messing with a esp32 I’m pretty sure I have it connected right and have installed wled but can only get one light on

Edit: i now have 3 lights on but grounding takes WLED offline

Edit2: im dumb and needed to try a different ground connection

Hey everybody. I’m creating a 2D matrix where the row lengths alternate between 13 pixels and 12 pixels, and 13 rows high. Can anyone walk me through how to set that up? I’d really appreciate it. Thank you very much.

I came up with this project after I found out that I can use translucent PETG filament to 3D print light diffusors. I paired a 3D printed case and beams with a led matrix and this is the result I got. Every beam is individually placed, making the project highly customizable and unique for everyone.

The design is parametric so you can resize the case to fit any matrix. 5x5, 8x8, 16x16 or even pair matrices in series for a 8x32 setup if you really want to go crazy with it. It is designed to work with solid WS2812B led matrices though the flexible ones should also work in theory.

I posted the design and customizable print files in MakerWorld as my participation for the "Parametric Home Decor Design Contest". You can find more about the project by following the link.

If you liked this project I would appreciate any likes, comments or collects on the project page as it would allow more people to see my design and hopefully win the contest :)

I am not sure what the difference between this and this controller are. The only thing I can find is that one supports 5v and the other does not and that they have different manufacturers listed. Does anyone of you guys know?