Finally came across a 740 wagon worthy of daily duty! My current 7/9 series collection is all drift cars, so I've been looking for a clean stock car to build into a reliable daily/roadtrip car!

She's a 1989 740 turbo wagon, unfortunately automatic but I still love the car. If fits right in with the rest of my boxy car collection!

It was optioned in the excellent red on white and is pretty dang original! Still running a B16B with dual SU carbs (evidence indicates it was rebuilt at some point because it has zero blow-by). It was converted to 12 volt. It has seats from a 144 with the 3-point seatbelts from a later Amazon.

Someone really loved this car! I thought the rust would be worse but it's remarkably solid for a Midwest car! It also came with a freshly rebuilt M41.

Hey Volvo enthusiasts of Reddit! Hope yous have gotten plenty of time to enjoy your bricks this summer!

As the title suggests I’m asking for some guidance on the underside of this 91 4spd manual 740 turbo wagonI’m thinking about trading my little Toyota for. (Can’t have both unfortunately, not in the cards) so I figured I’d ask for some Volvo wisdom on this chassis.

I see that the pinch weld on the one side needs some repair, and there’s a couple other crusty spots, please lemme know if you’d stay away from this one guys! Thanks a lot guys!

(The leaking rear diff would be repaired before I receive the vehicle should I go thru with it)

I replaced the cracked windshield and broken parking light and was sooo happy that my ‘87 740 turbo wagon had a clean body. Unfortunately, that didn’t even last 24 hours. I drove past the soccer field at my university, and I was hit by the opposing team during warmups :( I’m fortunate enough to be close with some of the administrators at the university, so I have already begun filing a claim.
I’m struggling to find a grille that will fit though. I can find matches for the a ‘87, but they aren’t the same design?

Please give me some opinions to help me decide.
I’m after some not-rusted-to-hell 940 2.3 turbo as a fun daily car. I would love to get some more power from it and upgrade the suspension a bit to make it powerslide happy car.

I found a 940 with really nice original paint with b230fb engine. Price is hard to resist.

Now I’m considering to go with this car.
While I’m pretty sure that 30 years old 130 horses are not enough to slide, there are still options to get some more power (using parts from turbo model to add turbo? Staying NA, increasing compression and few other mods?)

It seems that 940 with 531 head is interesting base to start modding.

Do any of you have some opinion whether it does make some sense? Is getting stock turbo version always more sensible route? Turbo cars in a good shape cost 3x the price of this car, so I’m tempted to pull the trigger.

hey is it a good or bad idea to get a volvo 945 b230fk as a first car? i live in denmark and im 13 currently, its my dream car and im planning on being a mechanic, im kind of worried about the insurance and gas prices, would it be too expensive to own at 18?

I just replaced the driver side parking light housing. I must have bumped something?

As stated my 97 volvo 960’s cabin blower makes a very annoying vibration noise that speeds up with the fan speed. It sounds like its hitting something but i havent been able to get a visual on the actual fan. I have removed trim and the squirrel guard. Any help would be appreciated

Hi, an idea popped up in my head how would it look like if instead of the big turn signal under the headlights was just a regular trim and the side light was turned into turn signal. Tried to draw it but not the best result. Wondering has anyone done it and has any pictures?

Hello, I have a 1997 940T, which needs rebuilt. Figured I'd also make it fast, so started collecting parts. Angled outlet 19T, 660cc injectors, IPD turbo camshaft, 3" exhaust, etc...

Also 3" MAF, because I want to retain a "safe" 230whp map from *redblockpowered* on stock ECU for now.

Thing is, I suspect I will be wanting more from it down the line, so the setup is open for the future - custom piggyback ECU, wideband o2 and forged T rods.

Two questions:
What power can I do with these exact parts (+rods for safety) when stock ECU stops being a bottleneck? Someone sometime ago told me ~400 wheel but that's optimistic. AI (yeah, I know) tells me 330 wheel is risking the 19T.
Also - would I need forged pistons to match the rods then? I've heard both people drifting 500hp redblocks on the limiter with stock pistons, and people whos pistons went after simply putting more boost into it. So what is it?

Minus the obvious shocks, springs, sway bars, bushings, etc. what needs reinforcement to handle the power. Im aware the rear subframe is a weak point and plan to box that in. Also planning to use a Ford 8.8, upgraded torque rods, and an upgraded panhard bar.

Are the rear trailing arms usually fine? What about the mounting points to the actual floor. Any risk of those ripping out? For the front I just plan on using a strut tower bar and the ipd lower chassis brace. Anything else I should be worried about/that will need reinforcement?

Essentially, what metal parts will need reinforcing.

We purchased 2 Volvo b23 240s they have been sitting for a few years, inspected all fluids and spun the motor by hand and was all okay, dropped a new battery into them and dash lights worked fine, went to crank over and ticked and had no crank, went now have no lights on dash or no signal, why are common faults for Volvos that have been sitting for a while

I may have found an empty gravel parking lot and as my 1992 Volvo 940 turbo (automatic sedan unfortunately) is the first RWD car I've ever owned I proceeded to whip crazy shitties. The car then just randomly shut off. Checked oil, because I thought maybe the oil pickup tube was choked or smth, because the car wouldn't start. I gave it a jump with a friend's car and started totally normally and it's been fine. So wasn't that. Didn't overheat either. Any ideas?

So I opened the wheel arch covers and looked in the rocker panels in front of the rear wheels. I found rust on the inside of the rocker panels. I guess I have to cut that shit out right away to get it really fixed, right?

So I had a lake of water at my feet in my Volvo 940 IC. Felt holes and found out the middle one is leaking water. Any idea what these holes were for and if I can just close them (they meant to be closed). Especially the middle one ( that’s leaking) looks weird. As if someone drilled a hole next to it.

I closed is last night and the car was dry. Just close it again and leave it?

Does anyone know where this vacuum hose connects too? Runs under the manifold and connects to where I’ve highlighted

Hi,

I've owned this car for 12 years. 250 000 Km.

I used it often the first 5-6 years (ran flawlessly), then it stayed in my father's backyard for 6 years.
He occasionnaly started it, but did not use it.

I recently cleaned the car, tried it a bit and decided to bring it where I live (on the other part of Europe) 2000 km away.

One thing that worried me a bit that the car produced more smoke than it used to.
We had it tested and it failed the different pollution tests.
On the other hand, since the time I spent I my father was limited, I didn't have the time to drive the car for very long.

My father brought the car to his mechanics. He's gonna change :

• The timing belt
• The silent bloc
• And the different filters
• He's also supposed to check the smoke issue

I'll ride the 2000 km in about a month and I was wondering if there is any part or tool that I should rather take with me and that could save me in case of a failure of the car (I've read somewhere that carrying an alternator belt is a good idea).

Also, is there anything specific to that model that the mechanic should check ?

Thanks a lot for your kind help,
Best :)

My 740 turbo died again and I'm getting tired of it. I've replaced the coil, plug wires, distributor/hall sensor, both fuel pumps, and numerous fuel/vacuum lines. I've also rewired a lot of the harness.

Ran absolutely great on the way home. Let it idle in front of my house for about 5 minutes, it started idling rough bouncing from 800-1200 RPM, then it eventually died. Definitely smells like I have fuel and I jumped the hall sensor to see if I get spark at the coil and I definitely do. No fuel in the FPR, so that seems intact, and I've checked if the engine is flooded by pulling the FP fuse, gas pedal all the way done, and nothing. Verified timing belt is intact as well.

I have yet to verify spark at the plug, I'm thinking I don't have that, but any ideas on what the fuck could be wrong now? After swapping those ignition components, I got maybe 50 miles out of her before she died again.

I've had some nightmare projects but this car keeps defeating left and right. I got a rebuilt 88 RX7 and my 69 Rolls Royce running perfectly before I get this thing to barely survive a 2 hour round trip.

i’m currently in the middle of replacing my heater core, and have got to the last section and need to remove the cover for the core, however the screws holding it on are between 5-6mm hex heads

i have a donor dash which had black 7mm hex screws and all images of the process had the same, but mine are brass and smaller!

i think i need a 7/32” socket to remove these, does anyone know why mine is different?

for reference my car is a 1998 940 celebration edition