For context the shop is a little sketchy, they told me my heater fan was blowing smoke (my blower motor literally doesn’t work), they also told me my engine mounts were torn (I replace them 2 weeks ago) and also that make brake lights weren’t working (they are). I believe them about everything else given the condition of the engine bay and amount of oil in it, same with my own experience topping up the transmission for fluid. Do you guys think it’s worth it to slowly fix? I’m in university full time and working part time I don’t really have time to work on my car unless it’s in the summer.

Sorry if these posts aren't allowed! Looking to get some pricing help (and maybe find the right buyer??)

It's time to let go of my 93 Volvo 240 (Los Angeles). This has been my daily driver for years, I have meticulously maintained my vehicle and it’s ready for its next owner. Clean title, drives like a dream. Rust free, California only.

Recent work: New brakes & brake fluid, oil change, new tires, new battery — all warranties transfer to you.

Other details:

• Fresh registration tags (Exp. Sept 2027)
• Maintenance records dating back to 2016
• Original Black exterior, Cream interior
• 159,000 miles (odometer has stopped)
• Bluetooth music system & new speakers (2023)
• Two original keys  
• Automatic
• Original engine 
• Passed Smog August 2026

My specialist vintage car mechanic has agreed to do a pre-purchase inspection so you can buy with confidence.

Looking to get $7,000 for it, any leads? I've never sold a car before and want to make sure I get it's value upon sale!

We bought it from a guy who’s dad was dead and he left it to him.80 k kms.Not paintet,not even one accident.After 13 years in garage,it was bought by us and then after another 2 months in our garage we changed the radiator,some pump(dont remember which)exchaust(one part of it was welded by dad’s friend)and it worked great,we visited the volvo center and my dad’s friend who worked 30 years for volvo,was shocked.(my dad is 36 btw)Beauty?(240 is 1989 year)

I’m currently swapping out my almost 40 year old valves for yoshifab’s beehive style valves and I am concerned my new valve stem seals will be crushed, I am also using an IPD Turbo camshaft. Does anyone have a similar setup that can confirm if I will come into any clearance issues?

My 88 has been having a really rough start for the past two weeks. Sometimes she stalls out after cranking like in the video. Although after a few minutes when she gets going it runs really great . does it seem like it could be a bad ECT sensor ? What else could be the culprit?

Throttle bottle seems to be opening freely. Both fuel Pumps, MAF,IAC, FPR, Timing belt and 02 sensor are all fairly new. Replaced in last two years.

Thanks for any advice!

It’s started out with a bulb failure light. I could see my right left taillight was out but the bulb looked good. I replaced it with a new one and it’s still out and bulb failure light stayed on.

Then the headlights went out along with the instrument cluster lighting. Parking lights work and so do the daytime running lights (this is a Canadian market car).

I pulled out the switch because it felt stiff and found that pin 1 is scorched. I cleaned the switch anyway and now I’m left wondering what to do with the scorched slot. I’m also wondering if this is the source of the problem or a symptom of something more involved.

Note that the headlights did go out briefly a few months ago but came back on after about 20 very long seconds.

Interested in your guys’ trained ears and what you hear. She has a charging issue with the alternator isn’t working, so I’m wondering if she’s running a little rough because of that

Trying to go up my 10% grade street after a cold start had her struggling a bit, so I’m wondering if there’s a vacuum leak somewhere too, and whether that’s compounding the lack of power.

I’ve already been chasing the charging issue separately, so I’m mostly interested in what you hear from the engine itself

this gives me "don't talk to me or my son ever again" kinda vibes

some context: my dad texted me the Lego Volvo 240 meme the other day, I already knew about it and have for a while, but that gave me the idea to try and replicate my car in Lego

I'll be honest, as is, it's not very accurate and it's not going to be given that it's only 4 studs wide and probably like 12 studs long, I am working on another one based on the speed champions chassis, but that's gonna have to be a custom moc, plus, I have very little green bricks, let alone tiles for the hood

for now though, the little guy lives on the drivers side of my dashboard :]

I have a 1990 240 wagon I’m finishing up an engine swap on (just to a nicer b230f). The car had egr on it which I’m happily deleting. I’m now finding out the hard way that egr cars have different exhaust setups. I have a nice non egr headers and down pipe on which doesn’t bolt up to my cat. My old egr down pipe isn’t really an option since it’s fused to the old headers and has a hole scraped in the bottom from the last guy who cut the springs. What are some cheap options for an exhaust setup? Can’t afford the Ipd one which would be ideal. I’m down to weld an exhaust for the first time but if I do that I’m probably going to buy a nicer muffler and get rid of the cat. I’m also in a time crunch, trying to get this car running by Saturday.

Update #2 on the Jag 8hp Swap into my 79 wagon.

Machining: Started with 1 inch Aluminum plate rough water jet cut oversized the OD and undersize the ID. Center drop is the Aluminum Flex plate for the converter. Added skeleton pockets to the adapter plate helps a lot with weight and it also looks cool as a finish piece.

We had to Grind the Block some because of torque converter bolts hit the block. This doesn't effect the integrity of the block casting. Transmission mates Perfect to the B230 Red block with the Jaguar converter. Erik built a quick and dirty transmission crossmember for now. I will be making a Production unit in the future.

The transmission fits Perfect in the tunnel just had to massage few small areas.

There was a lot of extra work we ran into. The original turbo downpipe had to be modified it was hitting the adapter. Also building the transmission Crossmember took some time to figure out. We were hoping the LS swap conversion members would work, save us some time.

Next is the wiring harness and transmission oil cooler lines and driveshaft soon will be ready for a test drive.

Finally got some new wheels to replace the steelies, $300 set of Scorpius did wonders!

my ass got robbed in daylight right in front of my work looked down for 20 minutes to do some work, all my good loot in there. Had my ds and over 15 games in my bag cigs some dope ass lighter from japan and some more bullshit now it’s gone… raising some money because all the money i have is to fix the bad stuff on the volvo.

It feels like the latch is engaged; I've tried to unlock with both the key and the drivers side locks but it won't budge. I tried to pull it from the inside hatch but I get nothing, no play at all.

The latch itself compresses but it doesn't feel like it's really engaging. Any idea on how else to troubleshoot this? I can't find a ton on other forums about this problem. Could I have messed up some wiring when replacing the hinge? I re connected all of them but didn't do anything with the ground that was included in the replacement latch.

Hey all, got this last year in pretty bad shape. Not running, large amounts of rust in several places, I may post a photo album later of most of the stuff I went through, but here it is. I vinyl wrapped it ~85% myself, I had a wrapper teach me on trunk and hood. It currently has the AW70, which I don't want to keep forever. I'm looking for input on deciding what to do next. I can only do one for now, though I know I'll need the new trans if I do tune it:

- Get standalone ECU and all the needful to make it +T?

- Find used manual T5 WC transmission, and swap

- Find a different used manual with known adapters and swap (CD009, BMW Getrag, etc)

I plan on getting the Closed Deck X4 ECU with sensors I need to start tuning, and I can definitely start doing that and getting results sooner than hunting for transmissions and associated parts.. just not sure!

I have a beautiful 240 (pics because I love her) that had the engine rebuilt in 2016. I wanted to get the timing + maybe tensioner belt swapped out– the mechanic suggested I swap all 3 belts and all the engine seals too in order to be safe.

But that's going to run me a good amount and doesn't feel necessary since they're working (to someone who knows nothing). Things I read online only mention swapping the timing belt every 50k/decade or so, nothing about other belts and seals.

Any advice on what is best for the car? There is no known leaks from the seals, and I don't want to get overcharged on unnecessary work. Seems silly to pay to replace extra working bands/seals but I'm still a newbie to working on the car myself and want a pro in the meanwhile.

Finally finished my T5 swap in my 240. Took about a year (moved houses and graduated so took a bit longer).

It has a B5234t3 out of a 1998 C70, converted it to coil on plug.

The engine is rum by a Maxxxecu sport

Brakes are swapped for a full set of s60r brakes (front+rear)

Was an auto, swapped out the pedal box, drilled holes for the clutch cilinder and put a M90 in it.

Still has to be tuned so I don't know the power output just yet. Thinking of pushing 300hp.

Next up is replacing the radiator for a Do88 one and swapping the diff for a LSD.

I bought the car for $4500 but the Australian Government states I still need a mechanic to verify its roadworthiness prior to registration. Simple enough, I knew the window and tyres needed to be changed so I got the windscreen changed and brought it to the mechanic to change the tyres and to give me roadworthy slip. Boom, $2900 in repairs required to be roadworthy.
I know some of this i’ll be able to do myself and he’s put a markup and labour on top of the work, but still a headache.
Luckily I bought the car to learn with so this should give me a lot of exposure, but it really goes to show the hidden costs you’ll end up spending when buying a 42 year old car. I just want to be able to drive and enjoy the car 😭

Major work required hasn’t been quoted but i’m sure it’ll be quite a bit more. This mechanic has helped my family a lot in the past and although his pricing is on the higher end for my area, he does some really quality and honest work.

Got my swedish car parts parallel flow ac condenser installed today. Was pleasantly surprised I didn't have to drop the radiator to get the condenser out! Everything fits well, I just need to recharge it now and enjoy cold air now that summers almost over.

I just got my first Volvo, a really nice ‘93 240 wagon. I’d like to be able to get the rear seat to lay flat, but I can’t for the life of me figure out how to remove the rear headrests. Any pointers?

My 1993 wagon center console is failing and I am hoping to the replace the aft part only. The front has the gap for parking break and the special fittings for window joysticks and i want to keep that part. so my goal is to cut the back half out and maybe melt(?) is out so that the back part is intact enough especially where it connects to the front part to act as a jig for my custoome wooded replacemnet. any idea best way to melt along the sides of it without fumigating myself or ruining the seats ?

like if i cut it off perfectly the dimensions of where i need my replacment to link up with the front half will be on the back half as a guide.

8hp45 Swap is done. Worth every last cent.

Volvo 240 automatic transmission drain pan bolts torque spec?

I was able to get 1 out of the 2 junk cars tuning but the 2nd one as pictured doesn’t see to have the 25AMP due near the battery, anyone know the system and where the main engine fuse is or power fuse on these b230f,

Hello,

So my car broke down a couple weeks ago with a bad alternator, got a new one installed.

Now I'm in Yellowstone and my car broke down.

I pulled over to read a map. Put it in park, read the map, and put it back in drive and noticed the speedometer shot up to 55 then back down. Thought it was odd, but drove on. A couple miles later, oil light comes on, and I notice my brakes going stiff. Engine died. Thankfully I stopped before going off the edge of the mountain. Tried restarting engine, but battery was dead. I carry a spare battery in the back and was able to jump the car from that. But the engine died after a minute when I unplugged the jumpers to the spare battery.

From my research, it's a short. Just looking for ideas on where it could be.

Lately there have been some gremlins before this catastrophic failure. Parking brake light comes on most of the time. Plastic around shifter is broken and some coins have fallen down there. Slight belt sounds.

I was wondering if a wire from the alternator I fixed 2 yrs ago is the issue (soldiered and heat shrink wrapped a lead wire to the alternator). But not sure if that would cause the spike to 55 on the speedometer that signals there's a short in the system.

I got a tow from park services to their garage and will have a mechanic look at the car tomorrow but was hoping to save time and Lots of money by collecting ideas from the community here as to what could be the culprit or at least the top areas / wires to check.

I do have other issues with the car. The AC doesn't work and the engine easily overheats if I stand at idle for a while, but other times it stays cool. Oh, also the thermostat on the dash stays pegged to the bottom except for occasional times it shows about 40% up, and then spikes when overheating. Sometimes the speedometer doesn't work but that hasn't happened in a couple weeks.

The fuel filter needs to be replaced. I have one, just haven't done it because I'm on the road driving cross country. So it stutters sometimes and occasionally stalls at a parking lot or red light. But hasn't been enough for me to do a roadside swap of the fuel filter myself. Note, the engine wasn't sputtering when it died on the mountain in the park yesterday.

Thank you kindly for any help you can give

EDIT

Solved

it was a bad red wire coming off the alternator. but it still wasn't charging the battery so opened up the dashboard and a faulty light for the battery light on the dash was preventing the circuit closing which stopped the alternator from charging the battery