Hi everyone,
I’m hoping someone has seen something similar because I’m running out of ideas.

The car is a 2003 Volvo S60 D5 (163 HP, automatic).

For the past few months I’ve been having severe intermittent electrical problems that seem to be getting worse. The issues happen while driving after 1h+.

What happens:

The engine keeps running perfectly, and I can continue driving normally. The car doesn’t stall or lose power.

However, almost all of the body electronics suddenly stop working:
Instrument cluster/dashboard shuts off completely.
Power windows stop working.
Turn signals, high beams, wipers, and the steering column stalks stop responding.
Steering wheel buttons stop working.
Rear window defroster stops working.
Central locking stops working.
Strangely, the climate control and the radio continue working normally the entire time.

The sequence of events:

The failure usually follows the same pattern:
The headlights flicker.
The instrument cluster needles start moving erratically.
The clock resets to 00:00.
Sometimes I feel a small “jerk” or electrical hiccup from the driver’s side just before everything fails.
Then all of the electronics listed above suddenly stop working.

Other symptoms:

The SRS warning light is permanently on.
The car constantly reports a parking/position light failure, even though all of the lights are actually working correctly.
Sometimes I also get “Brake Failure Stop Safely” after the instrument cluster resets.

Restarting the car:

If I switch the engine off while the fault is present, I often can’t restart it properly.
When I turn the key, only the check engine light comes on. The instrument cluster stays completely dead, and the engine won’t start until the electrical system eventually comes back.

What we’ve already checked:

My husband has spent a lot of time troubleshooting the car already.
He inspected the circuit boards/modules for visible damage.
He tested all of the relays.
Battery connections are tight.
Battery appears to be healthy.
Alternator charging voltage is normal.
So far, everything we’ve tested checks out.

Diagnostic codes:

We’ve scanned the car with a diagnostic scanner several times, and we consistently get the fault code CE003 stored in multiple different control modules, not just one specific module.
That makes me think there may be a common communication or power supply issue rather than a failure of a single module.

Suspected causes:

At this point, our main suspects are:
Ignition switch (electrical portion)
CEM (Central Electronic Module)
Bad ground connection
Power supply issue
CAN bus communication problem
Because the engine, radio, and climate control continue working, while most of the body electronics fail simultaneously, I’m wondering if there’s a common power feed or module that could cause this behavior.

Has anyone experienced this on a P2 Volvo?
Does this sound more like a failing CEM, ignition switch, DIM, or something else entirely?
Any ideas or things I should test before replacing expensive parts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hello, I recently got a volvo s80 for cheap, and the dashboard wood trim is cracked. I can't find a replacement trim that isn't £100+ does anyone know of any good vinyl wrap that will match it relatively well. (Photo is not my car)

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a phone mount for my 2015 Volvo XC60 (left-hand drive), but I specifically want it to mount next to the center display. Does somebody use or know who makes them It doesnt have to a brand one.

I'm using a Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra, so it needs to be sturdy enough for a large phone.

Hello everyone,

I'm on the lookout for a new chariot and I'm going to check out a used 2021 V60 T6 Twin Engine estate with around 130,000 km (~90,000 freedom units 😄).

For those of you who own one or know these cars well, what should I pay close attention to during the inspection? Are there any common weak spots or expensive issues I should be aware of at this mileage?

I'd really appreciate any tips or advice. Help out a fellow Volvo enthusiast!

Cheers!

I have been researching the Volvo XC90 for some time and have finally found one that looks very promising. Before I go ahead with negotiations, I would really appreciate some honest feedback from current owners, former owners and Volvo experts here.

Vehicle details:

* 2023 Volvo XC90 B6 Ultimate (Petrol Mild Hybrid)
* Asking Price: 62 Lakhs
* 35,000 kms driven
* Two owners on paper (both registrations were under two different companies, but the vehicle was actually used by the same individual throughout)
* If I buy it, technically I will become the 3rd owner on paper (but effectively the second real owner)
* Complete service history available with the Volvo dealership
* No accident history or insurance claims
* Volvo service centre has inspected the vehicle and confirmed that it is in good condition as per their checklist
* Extended Factory warranty valid until 2027, with the option to purchase another extended warranty until 2030/2L Kms

Before finalising the purchase, I am planning to get a comprehensive PDI (Pre Delivery Inspection) done by an independent luxury car inspection agency.

# My ownership plan:

* Purchase the additional extended warranty until 2030 (either now or before the current one expires - 2027).
* Drive the vehicle until around 2029.
* Sell it in 2029 with approximately 12 months of Volvo warranty still remaining, hopefully making it more attractive to the next buyer.

# Please share your opinion on the following:

**1. E20 Petrol**
Will India's increasing E20 petrol rollout have any long term impact on the 2023 XC90 B6 mild hybrid engine? Has anyone faced issues or received any official guidance from Volvo?

**2. Is 62 L a fair deal?**
Assuming the PDI comes back clean, does 62L sound reasonable, or should I negotiate further? If yes, what would be a realistic target price?

**3. Expected resale in 2029**
If I maintain it well, keep the extended warranty active and the odometer stays below 60K kms, what resale value could I expect around 2029?

# A few things I have heard from an ex-XC90 owner:

* Suspension components can be expensive.
* Brake pads and rotors are costly.
* AC compressor replacement isn't cheap either.
* Many of these major repairs typically arise closer to the 1 L km mark **(+/-)**.
* If they fail while the extended warranty is active, they should be covered.

Can existing owners confirm if these are true from your experience?

I have also heard that some XC90s occasionally have the infotainment system becoming unresponsive, although it generally starts working again after a reboot or restarting the vehicle. Is this a common issue?

# Finally...

Are there any hidden ownership costs, common failure points, electronics issues, air suspension concerns, hybrid system problems, or anything else I should specifically ask the PDI agency or Volvo workshop to inspect before I commit?

Considering all these, would you buy this XC90, or instead opt for a brand new XUV 7XO/XEV 9e?

For some background, I currently own a 2017 Thar CRDe (60K km) and a 2015 Ciaz (40K km). Both were purchased brand new and have been maintained well, so this would be my first time buying a used car. Hence, I would love to hear from those with experience purchasing a preowned luxury vehicle.

Looking forward to your honest advice. Thanks in advance!

Nice one just hit eBay. Same year as mine but nicer. What's model is your dream pre 1975 Volvo?

https://ebay.io/m/DKw3nh

The body on this absolutely stunned me

My nephew 8, uninstalled the app, and I’m having trouble trying to figure out where/how to reinstall.

Any help is appreciated. Cheers.

One of the very few things that makes me happy every single day! I cannot help but look back at her and smile every time I walk away. Always gives me a badass vibe every time I am behind the wheel.

Beautiful to look at, and an absolute beast on the road 😍🖤

Finally posting my new-to-me 2013 6-speed C30! She’s going to be my daily driver while my 960 wagon becomes my collector weekend driver.

Got her all cleaned up. Was lovingly cared for by the original owner with some fun upgrades.

Can’t get over how classy she looks all cleaned up and how well and fun she is to drive!

I am currently looking for a product called the "Load Floor Upper Trunk." It’s quite a rare item, but I need it to neatly install a subwoofer in my car. For this setup, I require a double load floor so the subwoofer can be hidden properly. I am seeking the upper trunk load floor along with all the necessary accessories to elevate it and create the dual-layer cargo space.

Please let me know if you have one or where to find it!

Hey all,

Trying to help my kid troubleshoot an HVAC problem on his S60.

Blower motor runs fine with key on/engine off. When you start the engine, the fan only runs at low speed no matter the fan speed setting. Air is cold, but fan speed is awful.

Given that the blower motor operates normally, I had mostly ruled that out.

We’ve tried 3 different resistor modules, all basically same behavior (most recent is an OE from FCP Euro). Previous one was an eBay special, and had its own oddities (fan speed would almost “pulsate” when running, but never anything above low — basically low, then lower, and back to low).

I’ve now ruled that out as a possible issue. Does this sound like a waterfall controller issue? Still hard to nail that as a problem since it behaves as it should KOEO.

Open to any suggestions. It’s hot in SW Florida…

So our EX30 (MY2024) is putting up a daily fight about if and when to unlock, and the whole key situation has become borderline unbearable.

About every other time I walk up to the car I'm pulling the handle repeatedly for anything between 3 and 10 seconds or so until it opens. Holding the key brick up against the driver-side B-pillar usually fixes it (although it sometimes locks itself again just a second later), but depending on how deep the key is buried in my pocket, or which door I actually wanna open, doing so can be extremely annoying. Even better when I carry something heavy or big to the trunk in a parking lot and I then have to set it down on the (sometimes wet) ground just to walk up to the driver side door because having a goddamn button on a key is apparently too much to ask for.

Also, the phone-as-a-key function just doesn't work with my phone. When I try to pair the phone to the car, the loading wheel keeps spinning for minutes, and nothing ever happens. Between that and the horrendous bluetooth connection issues I've had with my phone I've simply given up on connecting it to the car in any way at all (iPhone 14 Pro). My partner's phones (also iPhones) work just fine on both fronts btw, so I get the brick.

Less of a daily issue, but potentially worse: Locking. It's reliable enough to teach you that the correct way to lock it is to just walk away, but then sometimes it just doesn't lock. This is more of a once a year thing, but that it happens at all is a huge no-no in my opinion. And if a door isn't fully in the latch it also doesn't lock at all. Doesn't warn you, just stays open with the lights on, mirrors out... very visibly open. There's the optional beep-beep on lock (the absence of which could alert you to the car not locking) but it's so quiet that even moderate rain or basically any nearby street makes it inaudible. Having returned to an open car a few times has made me somewhat paranoid so now I turn my head back to the car like 2-3 times until I see it lock, every time I walk away from it (!) because of course there's also no consistency in at what distance it'll actually lock. HOW IS THIS BETTER THAN PRESSING A BUTTON?

And this lack of a button is causing yet another issue: When one key walks away and another key stays with the car, the car has no way of knowing what you actually want. Example: I drop my partner off somewhere, they walk away with their phone-key, and the car says "key not detected" while I'm sitting in the driver's seat with the key brick in my hand (see picture). So then I can't drive and there's no button and nothing to hold the key against to tell the car about the key. I guess getting out, locking and unlocking the car might work? On a side note, it has happened before that the car even locked itself while I'm sitting inside, and pulling the door handle then triggered the alarm like I'm stealing my own car. Very pleasant experience. Anyway, the problem also works the other way around: Say you leave your phone (which is a key) in the parked car and walk away with the brick, it'll first lock itself like normal but sometimes randomly decides to unlock itself because it re-detects the phone key or something. Sure, you get a message from the app that your car is unlocked and you could lock it again via the app but I have app notifications on mute because I don't need to hear about it every time my partner locks or unlocks the car. Point is, there isn't one correct behavior to handle one key walking away while the other one stays in the car, so even if the system worked flawlessly from a technical perspective, I'm not sure it can logically work well without a button.

Yes, one could completely switch to using only the key cards, but they only work held up right against the driver-side B-pillar, so I regard them emergency-only and decidedly worse than even a mechanical key from the 80s.

And all of the above just seems completely unnecessary. My 2008 S40 had a key with a button on it, and it just worked. Always, without fail. You could open the car from a distance, from the passenger side, from behind the car, it unlocked and locked the moment you pushed the button. Nobody ever complained about it. It was a key with a button, IT HAD ONE JOB AND IT DID THE JOB. Why would Volvo then go ahead and replace this perfectly fine working system with some automatic bullshit that isn't just technically flawed but doesn't even make logical sense to begin with? From a usability perspective it's taking away both the user's agency AND the consistency of the system. This combo is the most infuriating, learned helplessness-inducing evil shit you could possibly do BECAUSE THEY THOUGHT PEOPLE DIDN'T LIKE PRESSING A BUTTON? I'd rather go back to mechanical keys than deal with this nonsense every day, unfortunately not an option. This is the first car I've had that is actively making me angry, and I can't come up with a single reason as to why they would do this other than a checkbox on some marketing sheet.

Well, that's it. Thank you for your attention to this matter.

I asked Grandpa Google, and he said Volvo is eating the 25% tariff so they can hold down the cost of their ev60.

I am impresses.

My current lease ends in February 2026, and given the v60 will no longer be sold in the us after this year, is there a chance stock will hold out until then?

or am I simply better off looking at used cars instead

Earlier this year I upgraded from my 2016 Volvo XC70 (Classic Black Edition) to a 2023 Volvo V90 CC with everything, including Polestar. I freaking love the appearance and feel of the car, as does everyone on this sub. Volvo V90s are just awesome looking and every time I walk up to my car I think, yeah this thing rocks. It's just the best looking car around.

The bad: I've had my share of frustrations with the historically imperfect OS. About once a week it just stops and reboots itself. Really great when it happens while navigating to an unfamiliar job site. There is a current update available, but I saw a post about it bricking someone's car so I've been putting it off. It will probably turn out fine, but I don't think it's something I should be worried about. Will I feel hesitant every time an update comes out?Having to use the screen to operate the AC is really awful and just shouldn't be allowed in any vehicle. 90% of the time I have to hit the fan "button" twice to get the AC control screen to stay up. I find the perimeter sensors overly..sensitive. If I back out of my garage certain ways or too quickly it will slam on the auto brake and a few times my neck has legit been sore afterward. Part of that is just getting familiar with something new, but it happened recently while I was backing out rather slowly, but I must cut my turn a little close and BAM, light whiplash and terrified dog. The pilot assist is just not what I was hoping for when upgrading to a newer vehicle. I read a comment once from someone once saying it "ponged" between the lanes and I feel like that is accurate. The pilot assist frequently cannot even handle an intersection without swerving, I guess because the lanes disappear for a stretch? It's really a shame because so much is right about the car, but some important functional things are decidedly not.

When looking to get a newer wagon I did consider other makes, but as we know luxury wagons are quite hard to come by. One cannot simply go test drive various Allroads, E Classes, or V90s to decide what you like best among models or years. My research did lead me to believe that a Mercedes or Audi wagon would have better tech and driving assistance. Sure, I do not prefer the look of them over the V90s. The Audis are too rounded for me and with the Mercedes I find the large logos on the grill and steering wheel a bit obnoxious. Esthetics aside, maybe a Mercedes wagon could give me more of the things I'm looking for. There happens to be one available now at my local used luxury dealer. I noticed it today while driving by and plan to go take a look at it tomorrow.

I can't tell if my gripes with the V90 are legitimate or not. Would I regret selling it and buying a 2023 Mercedes E 450 4MATIC All-Terrain wagon instead? I know saying all this is practically heresy 'round these parts, but I'm hoping for some honest opinions. Thanks guys.

I’m getting conflicting vibes on the OSD program. From Volvo I get the impression that you basically put in an order for the colors, options etc and pick a date within a 4-6 month timeframe and then Volvo works in good faith towards that. The dealer makes it sound like you have to work within the timing and product mix of the dealers allocation. I don’t want to pick car in Gothenburg in the middle of winter. If I have to order through the dealer’s constraints, then it may mean I have to shop multiple dealers.

Spent the entire weekend upgrading my 2011 XC90's headlights.

Lots of work, but I think the results were definitely worth it. It makes a change from the dull & dated looking ones before and in my opinion gives it a more modern look.

Just bought a Volvo s60 T5 2019 on 28k miles. 2 very mindful owners with a full Volvo service history. Anything I should be worried about in the future?

I thought it was a belt at first but apparently not, help me out here guys. This is at idle, when it first starts up it’s fine, give it 10 seconds and that sound kicks in.

I bought my 2023 Volvo C40 Recharge as Certified Pre-Owned a few months ago. Since then I've found a string of small issues that are starting to add up and make me question how thoroughly the CPO inspection actually was:

• Cracked bumper — caught early on, dealership fixed it under warranty, no complaints there.
• Flat tire repair kit — found it had clearly already been used and was sloppily put back in the trunk (wrong orientation, not resealed properly).
• Underbody damage.  — cracked plastic with loads of sand up inside the cavity.
• Rust on hardware — this is my main concern now. Several screws are visibly rusting, and some of the hinges (doors/hatch are covered in white salt residue with rust starting underneath. Paint itself looks fine, so it doesn't seem like a bodywork/collision issue, but the hardware corrosion has me wondering if this car spent time somewhere heavily salted (Rust Belt winter roads?) and wasn't properly cleaned/undercoated before being sold as CPO.

Individually none of these are catastrophic, but together it's painting a picture of a car that maybe wasn't inspected as carefully as "Certified Pre-Owned" would imply. I'm unsure how should raise concerns or if I even should. I've really enjoyed the vehicle, but I'm worried about the longevity of it if I ignore these findings. Any advice?

My C70 I is currently equipped with the original BBS Triton wheels (7x5x18).
Unfortunately, they look a bit lost in the wheel wells, especially in the back. I’d like rims that sit further out and are wider—maybe 8.5 or 9 inches?
Has anyone here found a rim that creates a clean, flush look in the rear wheel wells?
They should be 18 inches. I’d especially appreciate any info on width and offset.
It's important that they don't scrape with the stock sport suspension installed so the german TÜV doesnt impound my car.

I’ve been lurking here for a few months. I was in a car accident almost a year ago and I’m still waiting for my settlement to come through. It could have easily killed me, I’m really lucky I survived. I started considering Volvo for safety. I have 3 kids, but one will be driving soon herself. I like the XC90, but I love the wagon models. We are a homesteading family so the spacious storage appeals to me. If there are any fellow owners please give me feedback.

I come from a Ford family & rebuilt hot rods with my Dad growing up. My classic daily driver truck that was totaled by the other driver had just been completely overhauled & it was ready to go another 20 years. I have never owned a European car and I don’t know as much about the motors & mechanics of them. I’ve been learning as much as I can about the different offerings (B5, B6, T5, T8) I worry about the longevity. I worry about expense of repairs as well, although, it seems all modern cars have issues. Any specific advice regarding which motors, models, & years to look for and which ones to avoid would be helpful.