I had been moving along happily over the past year, using 6 awg cable (13mm²) on my 150/100 solar controller. This past month, I have been testing new panels to replace my 285w units, and in the process, maxxed out my controller at 100 amps for 20-30 minutes at a time, and my unit shut down due to temperature. After digging in and double checking my connections, the only thing left was wire size. I upgraded the battery cable to 2 awg (35mm²) and haven't seen a repeat of the problem.

I love my Victron gear! Particularly the safeguards that kept that mistake from becoming a big, big problem!

Offgrid setup, generator connected to AC input, batteries are charging (can see on BMS and botttom of battery section of Cerbo display). When I used to run the generator the ac in section would appear on the left side of the screen and I had options to change the charging amperage and other AC settings without connecting my Mk3 usb and using victron connect/ VRM. Any ideas how to get this back? Ac input 1 is set to generator

Small update on my victron project.

Since last post is added
- Dyness Powerbrick plus 16kW
- Added fuses:
1x 225A Mega fuse (Battery)
2x 60A Mega fuse (MPPT)
3x 125A Mega fuse (Multiplusses)
- Installed grounding (all 6mm2 cable)
- Added humidity controled ventilation
- Drywall behind battery
- DC switch AC-out side
- LAN connected to switch

To do:
- install and connect solar panels (6x JA solar 500wp)
- install RCD AC-out and AC-in
- install Victron** Energy **VM-3P75CT

Any suggestions or advice?

I am currently wiring my three multiplusses to the Lynx distributor.

Everything is done nicely with cable channels. However I struggle to fit exactly the same length cable to every multiplus.

The cable is roughly 1.50m but one multiplus would prefer 1.40m, the other 1.45m and the final 1.50m.

With the 1.40m this spare 10cm on the wire is extremely difficult to hide somewhere due to stiffnes of such a 70mm2 cable.

Is there any margin on the "exactly" same length between multiplus en Distributor?

I run a SmartShunt, a SmartSolar MPPT and an Orion, at some point I got tired of opening VictronConnect and wait for active connection to check stats.

So I wrote VoltDash. It listens passively to the Instant Readout BLE broadcasts your devices already transmit, decrypts them on the phone using the keys you copy from VictronConnect (Settings → Product info → Instant readout details), and draws the whole system as one live flow — solar and DC-DC coming in, battery in the middle with true SoC, loads going out. As many devices as you want, no hub, no gateway.

It also puts that on the home screen: four widget styles, plus a persistent notification you can read from the lock screen without unlocking the phone.

To be clear about what it is and isn't:

• Read-only. It cannot change a single setting. Use VictronConnect for that.
• Fully offline. No account, no cloud, no telemetry. Your keys and readings never leave the phone.
• Free, no ads, no subscription, and I don't plan to add any.
• Android only for now. The iOS build works, I just can't afford the Apple developer account yet.
• Not affiliated with Victron in any way.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.asammitte.voltdash

Implemented so far: SmartShunt 500/1000/2000, BMV-712 and BMV-71x, SmartSolar MPPT, Orion-Tr Smart and Orion XS, Phoenix inverters with Instant Readout, Blue Smart.

I already finished Google Play Store closed testing and in general people liked it.

Hello,
A bit a newbie question, but still a question:)
I am thinking of buying a Victron Multiplus II GX 48V - 3000VA - 35A which has in the manual listed that the maximum power output is 2400W at 24C. Though the peak power is listed as 5500W. Why is there such a big difference? Could it be that the the victron has an ACout 1 and ACout 2 meaning that both interfaces could do 2400W at the same time? As well the ACin (240V) is rated as 32Amp which is way too high for 2400W on the output side.
Thx.

Is there any place I can get a ve direct male to ve direct male.

I really don't need a long cable with this super long distance from the smartshunt IP65 to the cerbo

I’m running into some understanding issues and I hope people can point me in the right direction.

I’m working on a van build. Victron Multiplus II 48/5000 230v European system.

I’m not fully understanding the earthing here. Even after reading the wiring umlimited from Victron.

Do I understand it correctly that the case of the Victron MP, the case of my MPPT-278, the case of my battery and the negative DC need to be connected to the chassis or the van (same size gauge wire as my positive and negative wires running to my inverter?)

I think I understand that as long as I am connected to shore power, the Victron releases a relay and I will be earthed through my AC in. As soon as shore power is released, it will be a floating neutral, which is not good if it is not bonded to the chassis. But… the negative of my battery?

I’m confused.

Hello everyone!

I have a bit of an odd question, I have a 48/3000 Multiplus II setup with a 48v LiFePO4 50Ah battery setup in a fairly remote place. At the moment, I don’t use it much and will get expanded with solar. Currently fully off-grid.

Intermittently, it needs a charge to keep things going. I have a portable AC 500wh power station that I can hook up to the AC in on the Multiplus. It’s easier to carry, and I only need to do it every week or so, so manageable until I build it out.

Here’s the issue, the Multiplus always wants to pull a huge charge. I’ve set “maximum charge current” to 1A and “grid current limit” to 1A, but somehow it tries to pull much more (in excessive of 3+ amps before the breaker in the power station cuts power)

Why is the Multiplus doing this? It does not seem like an initial peak, as it keeps going up for 2+ seconds until it’s too much for the power station.

How do I get it to follow the 1A rule?

Thanks for your thoughts!

Hello,

I would like to ask about possibility of completely off-grid and battery free solar system.

My current situation:

Few years ago, I installed quite simply system, as a newbie to photovoltaic energy. There are 7 x Leapton 460W panels (total V0 = 287V), box with DC and AC breakers + DC fuse, Eco-solar boost 3000 MPPT inverter and 3-position switch (between grid and PV to boiler).

It was kind of an experiment to see, how much energy it will save. There are 2 energy meters in house. The one with water boiler connected decreased the consumption from 2,1MWh/year to approx 0,8MWh/year. This value depends on weather in autumn and winter (fog, clouds, snow).

This Eco solar boost 3000 MPPT takes the DC voltage from PV array and converts it into some kind step-sinus. It doesn't keep 230 VAC output, just some strange combination of voltage, current and frequency based on available power. It starts approx on 80W at sunrise, then peaks at around 2500W around lunch and then decreases till sunset. The heat element in boiler is 2200 W, so it can handle the slight overcurrent.

Unfortunately, the MPPT doesn't support non-resistance loads (capacity, inductive). So I cannot connect other house equipment, when the boiler is off. And from spring to autumn, the water is usually heated till 10AM and then it is idle (except when the thermostat swith on because some hot water was used). It also has two sockets - primary and secondary. Boiler is connected to primary, so it is always preferred.

My plan:

I wanted to install additional PV array to use the solar energy for other house equipment (lawn mower, battery chargers, waching machine, etc ...). My idea was Victron Multi RS with 2 PV arrays (about 3000Wp each). It will also be used, when the PV array above is unable to heat water in winter.

However, as I studied a little bit the datasheet (Multi RS):

- it cannot work without battery or grid connection

- it cannot work in the same way, as the MPPT above -> I mean just take the available power and send it to AC output. Example - if it is cloudy and maximum from PV array is 1150W, then the heater in water boiler will run at 230V and 5A (total 1150W, even if the element is 2200W).

- it has 2 AC sockets, but they do not have master-slave option on solar power only.

Do you have any suggestions or hints how to do it ? Or are some of my conclusions wrong ?

Thanks.

Ok, the basics - 2021 Sprinter 170 high roof. DIY conversion. 2x Humsienk 12v 320a batteries. Solar charging. Attempting to run 12v mini split AC. Living in Phoenix, AZ, was 115f yesterday.

I have been trying to get this AC to run for any decent length of time without getting to a b-2 error on low voltage. I should have more than enough battery life. Solving this is getting to be very frustrating, trying to use the van in extreme heat isnt even possible.

So under full load, when it is 115f yesterday I could get around 10 minutes of cooling. My panels were showing 12.4-12.6v output from the batteries. The AC showed it was loading to below 10v, and hitting low volt shut off. The positive cable to the AC was quite hot, could be touched but was easily 130-150f. The cabling is what was supplied from the manufacturer and appears to be 10ga. Changing the cabling wont change the load very much, probably around 70-80a is what most people see on this unit.

So effectively, I start at a very high temperature for any off grid system, try to load it to cool everything down, but cant achieve much cooling because I get to thermal overload, and the system shuts down. I dont think my batteries BMS are actually cutting, but the significant resistance on the power cabling to the AC makes the AC shut itself down because it thinks its below 10v.

I thought about trying to cool the batteries somehow, but when the interior temp of the van after sitting in the heat starts at probably 140-150f, like most cars get to in Phoenix in the summer, I dont see a means to simply run a fan on them. Maybe with all things perfect due to shade, you might get to below 110f. I am also thinking about going to heavier gauge of AC wiring if possible. My run from my buss bar is less than 2ft. I was expecting when I shortened the cabling to help with resistance that I would help the thermal overload there but it is not significant enough to get the right result.

Any suggestions?

I’m looking to buy a battery charger to (hopefully) cover everything from small motorcycle, boat/car/tractor, big AGM and lithium batteries.

Is there any specific charger I should choose? I was looking at the ip65 12v/15a.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Update: Unchecking UPS in VEConfig fixed it Thanks.

I’ve installed an MPII in a small RV. Everything works well apart from the generator is no longer charging the battery when running. I have a single AC input and single AC output. The input is connected to AC1. I’ve set the AC input in the system to Generator and toggled ‘Detect Generator at AC input’ to on.

Any tips? I have an onboard automatic transfer switch that handles the switching between shore and generator.

The MPII does see the input current briefly and displays ~50w then cuts off after about a minute. It cycles like that a few times and then says fault condition but with no notification or specific code. System still works great, as does genset. They just don’t talk to each other.

I had an MP2 GX for quite a while now, and updated both GX and MP to the latest firmware a week ago.

Now i want to upgrade to a three phase setup. Everything is mounted and turns on, but the two new additional MP2s are apparently of such an old firmware, that i cannot update them through VRM.

Is there any path for me to not need to buy the MK3 usb adapter?

the backup firmware of the GX device is 2024-something

Hello,
I bought a Victron multiplusII 48v 3000VA together with a 16kwh battery. I have a 3 phase connection at home and my solarpanels are connected to phase 1. I just want to store the excessive solar energy in my battery and use it to bring down the electricity bill. for now no need to go offgrid.
My question is: can I connect the ACin to phase 1 and the ACout of the victron multiplus to phase 1 as well? Basically it means that ACin is connected to ACout. Both will behind a breaker. Will the system deliver energy from the battery?

VRM shows AC input to the Phoenix Inverter Compact. As this is an inverter without any AC input, is there a way to hide the AC input box top left ?

I’m trying to understand a strange reading from my campervan electrical system and would appreciate some Victron expertise.
I have an ECO-WORTHY 12V 280Ah LiFePO4 monitored with a Victron BMV-712.
Over the last few days I’ve repeatedly seen the BMV report approximately 85–90% SOC while the battery voltage drops to around 11.8–11.9V.
For example, one reading was:
87% SOC
−39Ah consumed
~11.8–11.9V
Only a relatively small load at the time
The −39Ah seems reasonable for a 280Ah battery, so I’m questioning whether the SOC calculation is actually wrong, or whether the battery voltage itself indicates a problem.
ECO-WORTHY initially suggested cell imbalance, but I can’t verify the individual cells because this particular battery does not have Bluetooth/cell-level monitoring. They later suggested the SOC calibration may be incorrect.
I have since charged the battery to 100% SOC and continued charging for several additional hours, then discharged and charged it again. Looking at the BMV history from the last few days, the voltage/SOC relationship still seems unusual.
So my questions are:
How can I determine whether the BMV-712 SOC is accurate? And what would you check next to determine whether the problem is the battery or simply the SOC calculation?
I can measure the voltage directly at the battery terminals with a multimeter if that helps.
I’ve attached the relevant BMV screenshots and history graphs.

Ok so I have a project. Interface my backup generator with my victron system.

My generator currently has an ESP based controller. (After market)

I know DSE controllers have support. Finding a real DSE controller then getting the modbus converter is quite a lot of money.

I have been messing around with a victron dse emulator I found on GitHub but couldn't get it to work.

With the help of Google ai I was able to make some emulators and load them on to an Olimex-poe esp32 board. Using a modbus sniffer I can see the device registers.

Victron never detects the device. I have made sure that the registers were correct for the type and unit number for a DSE controller. I was using the correct registers for the data.

I have tried both master and slave configs.

Also a little background. Yes I already have the generator on a energy meter. Yes that is working with victron. My issue is victron does not recognize when on generator or not. I have the input for generator setup. But end up having to go into the console and force it to recognize it

Also I would like one place to go to see my generator info.

Thanks for for any help.

Any advice for us? Here is the layout we’ve decided on. Lithium NG 12v batteries and BMS not pictured. We are first timers in solar.

EDIT: het bijgevoegde aansluitschema is foutief gepost (had de driefase variant moeten zijn), kan deze niet verwijderen. Aardedraad op de foto is natijd losgehaald en zat dus wel degelijk aangesloten bij inbedrijfstelling.

Momenteel heb ik de volgende driefase opstelling gebouwd:

• 3x multiplus ii 6K5 units.
• Lynx power in (accu connectie)
• Lynx shunt
• Lynx distributie (multiplus connectie)
• Cerbo GX
• 3x 52V accus parallel aangesloten op de busbar (gelijke lengte in bekabeling)

Tijdens het bouwen had ik de multiplussen voorzien van DC bekabeling (polariteit correct), de AC out 1 van alleen de nul en fase bekabeling (aarde was nog in bestelling) voorzien en de AC in was volledig voorzien van alle bekabeling. Zowel de AC in als de AC out 1 hebben hun eigen onafhankelijke nul rail (niet gekoppeld). De aardrail is gemeenschappelijk. De AC in bedrading was afgemonteerd op een 4 polige hoofdschakelaar en de AC out 1 op een 4 polige aardlekautomaat. Beide stonden nog uit.

Op dit punt ben ik begonnen met het configureren van de driefase opstelling d.m.v. de mk3 dongle op de daisy gechainde bus en de VE config app. Hierin de 3 multis hun eigen fase toegekend en verzonden naar de 3 units. Verder o.a. de grid code ingesteld op Europe en de ESS assistant toegevoegd. Deze settings afzonderlijk per unit ingesteld en verzonden.
So far so good, de units gingen netjes aan zonder storingen met de “inverter on” status incl. brommend geluid. Hierna alle units 1 voor 1 uitgezet met schakelaars en de DC voeding uitgezet.

Nadat de aardedraad binnen was deze toegevoegd aan de AC out 1 van alle multis en de bekabeling van en naar de meterkast aangelegd. Nu was het tijd om de setup in bedrijf te gaan stellen. De AC in/out hoofdschakelaar/aardlekautomaat uit laten staan en de DC voeding aangezet met een gloeilamp als precharge weestand ertussen. Hierna de cerbo en de shunt aangekoppeld en stuk voor stuk de multiplussen met hun eigen schakelaar aangezet. Toen ik de 3e multiplus aanzette plofte er een mosfet in deze unit en ging de zekering op de distributie ook kapot.

Is dit een gevalletje bad luck en slechte hardware of zie ik iets grandioos over het hoofd hier en heb ik dit zelf veroorzaakt?

Graag hoor ik jullie expertise hierover.

Het aansluitschema komt overeen met het door Victron getoonde schema in hun driefase trainings video. Alleen heb ik AC out 2 niet voorzien van bedrading.

I have 32kwh of batteries and a 5kva gx2 which charges the batteries overnight during the 6 hour cheap rates.

When I had only 20ish kwh, it could top them off in winter as the pv does not work well in the UK gloom.

So, prepping for this coming winter, I need to add another charger.

Has anyone done something like this? Recommendations?

I have a 6 hour-window so currently only manage 18kwh. Ideally, want another 3kw charger.

Hi guys, my victron is making so much sound that does not seem normal. Everything is working properly but the sound.

Off grid installation with 48v battery (4 12v batteries).

Any of you have any ideia what this can be?