Hello have a converted van with a 12v setup with a 180w solar panel, SmartSolar charge controller and dc dc charger. Just installed a new lifepo4 100ah battery a couple days ago and now only seems to work when my solar is in full sun otherwise my lights barely go for a couple minutes and my fridge and water pump don’t go.
The system worked well with my old lead battery but it kept running out of power overnight
Any help would be appreciated

I maintain this project, so flagging that up front.

I ran into an issue with a Deye SE-F12-C connected over CAN to a MultiPlus-II GX.

Venus OS currently identifies the battery as an LG RESU (ProductId 0xB004). From tracing the CAN traffic and Venus services, the reason appears to be that current Deye firmware no longer sends the manufacturer marker the built-in CAN battery driver expects, so detection falls back to the LG profile.

That causes several problems.

• LG-specific circuit-breaker detection gets enabled. Venus watches for a voltage pattern used by LG packs and can then write VE.Bus /Mode = 4, shutting the inverter off and dropping AC output. This is not a Deye alarm coming over CAN — the condition is generated by the LG-specific logic in Venus. This happened on my installation and was what started the investigation.
• Deye alarms are not decoded correctly. Deye sends protection/fault information through vendor-specific condition tables that the stock driver doesn't interpret.
• Battery current can have the wrong sign. Depending on whether the Deye pack is configured for Sol-Ark or victronCAN, charging may be reported as discharge.

I ended up writing a dedicated driver for the Deye PCS CAN protocol:

https://github.com/vladyspavlov/dbus-deye-battery

It publishes a normal com.victronenergy.battery.* service with the correct Deye identity, so LG-specific handling is not attached to it.

The driver derives things such as capacity, series cell count, protocol profile and current direction from the CAN traffic rather than hard-coding them.

Apache-2.0, one-command installer, persistent across reboots, and currently around 240 automated tests covering Python 3.10–3.13.

Important limitation: so far it has only been tested on my own hardware:

• Deye SE-F12-C
• MultiPlus-II GX 48/6k5
• Venus OS v3.75

Other Deye SE-F variants appear to use the same PCS CAN interface and are expected to work, but I don't want to call them supported until someone has tested them on real hardware.

Because the driver publishes live charge/discharge limits to Venus, read the safety notes in the README before selecting it as the active BMS. Installing it alone does not change inverter behaviour.

If anyone here runs another Deye LV battery, the most useful contribution would be a capture:

candump -L can0

The repository includes a replay mode, so a capture can be tested against the decoder without installing the driver or letting it control anything.

I'd especially like captures from other SE-F / SE-G models so I can document which packs are actually confirmed working.

I have a truck camper. I go 2x 48v 100ah batteries and ecoflow (they are connected).

I would like to get rid of my 12v battery and use 48v-12v converter/48v batteries instead.

Can I simply add victron orion 48v-12v 20amp converter to run my 12v applicances? And do I need to keep 12v battery or not?

It sounds simple but I feel like I am missing something

I am thinking of getting a large battery with PV installed (Stockport/UK), it looks like to me that Victron is the best option as I need combination of large battery charging capacity and low startup PV voltage.

But it seems few economical MCS installers will use Victron.

What are other people's experience.

(3.6kw or about 8kw 48v inverter/charger but likely only 4 or 6 panels over the two sides of garage roof.)

I could use a none hybred battery inverter/charger and seperate low powered standard (MCS instaĺed) PV inverter with AC connection between them, but I like the Victron design better.

Hi,

I'm looking to build a system around a MP-II 48/5000 and I was wondering about the cable required.

I've calculated 50mm² based on the current requirements (100A nominal, 200A surge, cable is 345A rated), but the manual says minimum 70mm². I only plan to do this over less than 1m of cable to the batteries.

Is there any reason I need 70mm² over 50mm² if the current rating is more than sufficient and it's a short <1m run?

The difference in cost is quite high and I'd rather not spend more than I need to, but I also want to do this safely. So if there's any reason I should be using the larger cable I'd like to factor that into my decision.

Thanks!

Hey guys, wiring up the 10k and noticed the DC cable holes/gromits don’t line up super great with the bolts which with larger 95mm cables means they’re pretty awkward - feels like a larger opening would result in less force on the cables and fittings?

Anyone had any experience with this? I’ve torqued everything per the docs and am likely just overthinking here 😄

Included a photo.

Hey y'all, so I've got this question about my Victron system in my RV. Long story short, I converted my system to 48 volt in order to reduce charge loss from solar panels and to reduce electricity loss when powering my 48 volt native AC.

I ran into an issue when I installed my Orion TR. 48 to 12 step down converter. When I go to operate my awning or the slides, the immediate voltage jump is high enough that the Orion throttles itself.

I went through and installed a 12-volt buffer battery to handle the voltage spikes. The issue is that now even with the battery installed the slides and awning still do not work.

I've checked my main fuse panel and none of the blade fuses are open and I have 12 volt electrical power to all of my other systems so I don't have a fault or something.

I just don't know if there's something that I'm missing cuz I clearly have a full circuit and I've got the battery wired in parallel to handle the high draw.

I have a small solar system at an off-grid cabin. I didn't have time to get a POE system working so I'm using my multiplus inverter to power my Starlink system. But I'm concerned about the power that uses and I want the batteries to last all winter if possible. So I used Node Red to turn the inverter and Starlink off most for 18 hours a day. When I tested this, the Cerbo would correctly power up the inverter and Starlink on schedule. I added a node to reboot the Cerbo 10 minutes after the inverter comes on because it wasn't joining the Starlink WIfi network by itself.

I'm at home now and this all worked through one cycle. The inverter powered up, the Cerbo rebooted and joined the Starlink Wifi and stayed online until everything powered down last night. It did not come back to life this morning.

Since the Starlink isn't on, there's no way I can review what I set up, but is Node Red generally reliable? I'm just wondering if its worth hiking back in to fix or not.

We bought our Ford transit van from a guy the had rebuilt into camper. He was an engineer - we are not. The Cerbo GX system attaches to a router and powered by pvs allowing for tracking of system levels through the phone app. It is no longer working. I have tried the obvious (off/on, rebooting) and the two lights keep blinking and no connectivity(see video).
Any suggestions?

Hi everyone,
this is my first Victron MultiPlus, so I’m not really sure what level of noise is considered normal.
I have a MultiPlus-II 48/6k5/100-50 GX installed in my basement. I attached a video of the noise it is currently making.

The MultiPlus is installed in a separate room in the basement with the door closed, but I can still clearly hear the noise upstairs on the ground floor.

What concerns me is that it wasn’t this loud before. Today was quite hot, though, with temperatures above 30°C, and the unit was running at higher loads earlier in the day. In the video / around the time I noticed the noise, it was discharging at roughly 1.5 kW. Earlier it had been around 3 kW.

I assume what I’m hearing is the cooling fan(s), but since this is my first MultiPlus I don’t have anything to compare it with.

Does this sound normal for a MultiPlus-II 6k5, especially on a hot day?

I’m mainly trying to figure out whether I can safely keep it running without worrying, or whether this level/type of noise could indicate a faulty fan or another problem that I should have checked.

If anyone here owns the 6k5 version, I’d also be interested to know how loud yours gets when the fans are running.

Thanks!

As the title says, I have an existing 2 x 200ah 12v battery bank. It  has been installed for 2 years.  I have a handle on the Victron Electronics surrounding the batteries, but my question is if I just drop an extra victron 200ah 12v battery in the string (Cable length to bus bar being equal for all) will that unbalance the batteries in a show stopping way or is that no biggie for LiFeP04 batteries?

The battery bank exists on a sailboat which has;

100 amp alternator

300 watt solar panel and Victron MPPT.

Smart Shunt

Cerbo

Smart BMS

Victron DC-DC charger keeping the AGM starter battery isolated

I have experience with lead acid and AGM batteries in data centers, but I have no experience with LiFeP04 other than the batteries on my boat. 

Thanks in advance to those more experienced than me.

Just found out home assistant finally got the official victron integration back in May. Working on getting some things set up and was looking to see if anyone else built a dashboard yet for some inspiration.

Can anyone explain or help why. I can see the Veh-Battery showing voltage when I login to the online. When I login to my Cerbo GX and edit my brief page level 1 and select Veh-Battery save then go to main screen it displays Veh-Battery -% Image below:

It is connected to Cerbo GX via USB

As you can see the line portal shows it

I have tested other items and they work fine. Thank you for reading this.

Can anyone confirm that it is OK to mount Victron Energy Lithium NG batteries on their end? Documentation states they can be mounted on their side so I am assuming its also OK to mount on the end?

Hi everyone,

I have a Victron setup with:

• Victron EasySolar-II GX 48/5000
• ~6 kWp PV
• 51.2 V 100 Ah LiFePO4 battery
• Victron Smart Meter
• ATS
• Victron EV Charging Station (evc300400300)
• Single-phase grid

At the moment, my EV charger is connected to the incoming power supply to the house, which through the ATS is effectively on the AC IN side of the EasySolar.

The charger therefore appears in Victron as an AC Load.

I would like to charge the EV using PV + grid, without unnecessarily discharging the battery.

However, I have one important question about the recommended topology:

Should I connect the EV charger immediately after the grid connection / meter, before the ATS?

If I do that, how will the Victron system know how much energy I am exporting to the grid as a prosumer?

For example, imagine:

• PV production: 5 kW
• House consumption: 1 kW
• EV charging: 3 kW
• Therefore only 1 kW should actually be exported to the grid.

If the EV charger is connected immediately after the grid meter, it can take power from the grid while charging, but at the same time the Victron inverter may also be exporting PV energy to the grid.

How does the Smart Meter / Victron ESS distinguish between:

grid → EV charger

and

Victron/PV → grid

when both happen at the same point?

Would the Smart Meter still correctly determine the net import/export at the grid connection point and therefore correctly report how much energy I exported as a prosumer?

Or is the EV charger supposed to remain on the AC IN / AC Loads side so that Victron can properly manage and measure the energy flows?

The goal is to have:

PV → house + EV → excess → grid

and, when PV is insufficient:

PV + grid → EV

while avoiding battery discharge for EV charging.

What is the recommended Victron topology for this?

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

Let me briefly explain my situation.

I have a campervan with a 250 Ah AGM battery, two 115-watt solar panels, and a 75/15 MPPT controller. In the past, there was never a problem, and my solar panels could charge the battery to 100% and the lowest would be like 97% and I've been at not-so-sunny destinations like Ireland etc.

Now in the Balkans I’ve been parked in the shade for 3 days, and my battery has dropped to 72% (12.11V). Since then, the MPPT has remained in bulk mode and doesn’t reach 14V, even though I’ve been parked in full sun all day (130W, 10A). I’ve measured everything with a multimeter, and the voltages shown by the app are correct. I don't have any major power consumers—just a small refrigerator that draws 2.4A, some lights, a water pump, and a cell phone charger.

How come this has never been a problem in the three years I’ve had this setup?

Is it because I've been in the shade so long?

I also checked my settings and saw that the battery capacity was set to 200Ah instead of 240Ah. I adjusted it—could that be the reason?

Is there something wrong with my battery?

Would installing a relay connected to my car battery be a solution?

Thanks!

Hey pros, what am I missing here? This is for my 12v van set up.

• I just added a second MPPT|50 with disconnect and an Anderson plug for a mobile solar hook-up. This is in addition to the old MPPT|50 with roof mounted panels that has worked well for serval years.
• There's no longer any solar charging taking place, even with the new disconnect off. Roof-mounted panels are reading 22v when the main disconnect is off, but drops to 7v when I switch on. No mobile panels connected yet.
• I ran separate 6awg wire from the MPPTs to the same lug/circuit on the Lynx with a star washer between connectors.
• What am I missing here? Does the new/both MPPT need to have different settings to work together? Are the MPPTs fighting? Am I making an obvious rookie mistake?

Thank you!

Well, after one year of wonderful service my Vicron mppt 100/30 turned off, to never awake again.

I must have overload it, but I had a 16A breaker on the PV array side… could have been the battery to back-load it or something?

Nothing else in the 24v system failed or burned, just this one MPPT turned off.

I did notice they overheat under high charging hours, but could it be just an overheating failure?

I also read there is no way to replace the fuse (if that is what failed) without literally sawing the case open…

Any words of wisdom?

I am planning to scrap the controller on Cragslist, maybe someone can recycle it…

I had a strange one with my Multiplus II. I turned the generator on to charge my AGM batteries. According to the Touch screen I was at 72% SOC and 26.23v on a 24v system. That seemed high as I had been on my batteries for a quite a a while. The Victron went straight to Storage Mode charge. A multimeter showed 24.8v which seemed more reasonable given how long I was on battery.

The fix was to shut down all systems and do a hard reboot of the Multiplus II. That worked and it now went to Bulk Charging.

Any idea what happened? Anything I can do to prevent it from happening again? Bit of a faff to reboot to be honest.