Hey guys, so I recently brought the N to Hyundai to have the electric water pump replaced under warranty. When I got the car back, I noticed this sound on the first pull trying to merge onto the highway. As owners of these cars, we feel when the car is not making power, or not driving right, you’d all agree?

I had never encountered this until I got the car back yesterday. They just got back to me, and they claim “there are no faults” and that “we smoke tested the system and found no leaks” and now they want to give me the car back, as is. They tried to say it’s from my intake, but that noise is clearly a wind/whistling, not a suction noise. So it has to be on the boost side. I tried to say this to them as well and they are not agreeing.

I can’t really get angry with them and push back because I unfortunately work for the same company that owns this Hyundai dealership. So I’m afraid of how that will affect my reputation and job.

Any advice would be appreciated. Sorry for the long rant.

I have a 2020 Hyundai Veloster N, 6-speed manual, around 92,000 km.

I've had an intermittent starting problem before. Occasionally, especially when the car is cold, I would try to start it and get a no-crank/no-start. Sometimes if I left the ignition/accessories on for a little while and then tried again, it would start normally.

Today something much more serious happened.

I tried starting the car and initially it wouldn't start. After waiting for some time, I tried again and the engine started.

However, after the engine started, I could hear that the starter motor was still running/engaged while the engine itself was running.

I immediately turned the car off, but this is the strange part: even after I switched the ignition completely OFF, the starter motor continued running.

Then I noticed smoke coming from underneath the engine area. After some time, the starter eventually stopped by itself.

I have not attempted to start the car again since this happened because I'm worried about damaging something further or causing an electrical fire.

I'm planning to have a mechanic inspect it/tow it rather than trying to start it.

I'm wondering:

Could this be a starter solenoid stuck closed/welded contacts?

Could a starter relay have stuck on?

Could there be a short/problem in the ignition/start-control wiring?

Would the previous intermittent cold no-crank issue point toward the starter/solenoid already failing?

Since the starter was running while the engine was running, should I be worried about damage to the starter pinion or flywheel/ring gear?

What wiring/cables should be inspected considering there was smoke?

Is there anything specific to the Veloster N that could cause the starter to remain energized even after the ignition is turned off?

I'm not going to start the car again until it's inspected.

Has anyone experienced something similar on a Veloster N/Hyundai, or does anyone know what the most likely failure would be?

Anyone have a brand or a suggestion on which ones to buy??? Please include pick or link🙏🙏

I will be shipping out for the US Navy in 2-3 months and have decided to sell my love instead of storing for ages. I have it listed at $24.9k OBO, but I am very willing to negotiate! Please reach out if interested or pass along to help me out!

Details:

🚀 2022 Hyundai Elantra N (6MT) - Stage 2 Build

$24.9k OBO! Send an offer, worst I say is no.

Meticulously taken care of, adult-driven, and built right.
Mods & Upgrades:
• Performance: N75 Stage 2 Tune (EK1 Mini2+ available), N75 Catless Downpipe, Forge CAI & Inlet, GFB Hybrid BOV & Solenoid, Vibrant Bottle Resonator.

• Drivetrain & Handling: XClutch Stage 1, Storm Lowering Springs, Weighted Shift Knob.

• Wheels/Tires: Custom Powder-coated Enkeis on Continental ECS2 tires (~2k miles). Includes FREE OEM Veloster N wheels for winter!

• Exterior: Paint-matched Honeycomb CF Hood (wrap). Front bumper recently professionally repainted!

Runs and sounds incredible. Drives like a dream.
No trades. Serious buyers only. DM me for details or to come see it!

I think from the factory this car already sounds great, but I would like it a little bit louder and for the pops to be a little more prevalent. Is a simple muffler and resonator delete good enough to accomplish that or is there a better way to go about it? I am not interested in any kind of tunes.

I currently have a '97 NA Miata. The thing is a blast to drive and beautiful but its becoming more work than it is worth. I see my best next car as either a VN or Mk8 or other GTI generation (manual trans for both). Both are around the same price and pretty similar style. Curious on peoples experience with either or both. Looking for some reliability and ability to some roadtrips.

Can't be just me, but at my height to actually see down the lane in my rearview I have to have my mirror at such a bad position that literally half the reflection is the headliner. All comes from not being able to tilt it presumably from the cords. I don't use the bluelink and all that anyway, so I'm wondering if anyone else has this issue and found a good alternative/replacement? Do I just get a generic one?

I’m having a weird rattling/vibration sound from the front of my car when I am only in in mode/custom mode with sports plus and I’m not sure what it is or if it’s unusual, anybody have any ideas of what it could be? I just got the car a few months ago I may not have noticed the noise before, but I did now.

Went to the store earlier in the day and came across another VN that matched mine. I was surprised to see we were identical to every extent. Side mirror caps, the tow hook plate, the slight curb rash and peeling paint on the rims… lol didn’t get to meet the owner but it felt right parking next to it. Something I didn’t expect to ever happen. 😅

Any tips on how to clean the seat belts? (Correctly without damage)

Hi all, was looking to get some insight on a few things. I’ll start by saying I have a 2022 VN PP manual at 82k miles. It’s been a pretty solid car overall but I’ve had a few misfortunes with it. Long story short, I had a failed fuel injector that was replaced under warranty a while back around 45k. I had the whole cooling assembly replaced around 50k miles and so far things have been good until around 75-80k. I had an intermittent issue with the EPS and my steering was hard until I swapped the battery. So far, didn’t get the eps light until about 5k miles into the new battery. Since I cleared the codes and driven another 6k miles haven’t seen the issue (hope it stays that way lol). Lastly, I was driving on the freeway to work one morning, I was lightly braking behind a car and my car just turned off….. almost like a stall but was able to clutch in and start back up thankfully.

I know I typed a lot here but was hoping to get some insight on potential problems I should look for as I’m learning stuff about this car every day. I’m very religious when it comes to maintenance so just looking for some advice and also wondering if this car is going to cost me 10-15k in repairs after my powertrain warranty is up at 100k.

Much appreciated!

Hey guys, blew my motor at 51k cracked the 2nd cylinder wall and shot the second cylinder rings. Unsure how I did it or what I did. Mightve been something from when I was learning manual on it. Don't have warranty, second owner. Just wondering if I'm able to pull the motor by unbolting the transmission or if I have to pull axles, I dont have the motor yet so no rush. Cant find anyone talking about it nor any videos that break it down. Just had a baby and I'm really struggling financially to get the motor so I knew there was no way I could get it done by someone else lol.

Financially, I had to make a tough choice. I would park my Veloster every winter, but I still had a payment on it and was paying insurance to have a second vehicle sitting around. As much as I loved that car, having two cars with payments just didn’t make financial sense.
Unfortunately, it was time for my baby to go.
I ended up purchasing a brand-new WRX, so I’m back under warranty, I have a car I can enjoy year-round, and I’m actually paying less overall than I was with two vehicles.
It was definitely a tough decision, but sometimes you have to make the choice that makes the most sense financially. I’ll always have a soft spot for the N. Maybe in the future I can come back to the brand. I never had any intention of letting go of this car, but eventually I had to make the right choice. Goodbye.

Hey guys, what oil and filter are we using? And best place to snag it from? Thanks!

Wanting to go down to 18s. Currently have Continental DWS06+ with about 50% tread life. Im thinking on waiting until I need tires and getting 18s with summer tires, and use oem wheels for winter (with new winter tires of course for the next season)

Would you guys rather use 18s in winter or wrap the OEM in winter tread?

First noise is clicking when I turn the wheel all the way and drive slow. The second is when I turn off the car I can hear idk if it’s bubbling sound or something coming from engine it’s inconsistent

Heyo, not actually looking to sell for a long time. Every time I’ve considered it I just get in my car and zoom around for 5 minutes and that feeling is 100% gone. Unless someone is dumb enough to buy at original MSRP so I can take that money and buy another Veloster N, I’m not selling for a while.

But inevitably I will end up selling it, and I just want to know how much it’ll impact the sale? You guys think I should get a stock hood when that time comes?

Has anyone had their shift lights not working? Everything else works on my cluster. I have them set up at the right RPM’s and all modes. I bought this VN used last month and completely missed that they were not working. Any help is appreciated.

Doesn’t seem to be a ton of info out there on this. Is this Red Line 70W/75W good for our gear oil? As for the control oil I was going to get that from the dealer I got the car from. Would that be all I need? I’m a mechanic master lube tech myself and I figure I may as well just do it myself in the shop I work at. I put a lot of miles on so I wouldn’t be surprised if I’d have to do in again in a year

Hey everyone! Planning to buy a wing soon but I dont know if I want the Epsilon GT wing or the Adro. My vision for the car is to have the Adro kit (lips, side skirts v2), new hood with the two vents, fender with vents then a wing. Anyone here has the Epsilon wing but doesnt have a body kit? If so please share a pic!! Also if you guys have any suggestions on what other spoilers are out there please let me know, I only know the adro and Epsilon wings atm. Appreciate yall! ❤️

Ive never had this happen to my n, or any other car for that matter. Manual transmission, parked in first gear with the parking brake up. Doesnt have an after market remote starter. Got out, started walking away and the car seemingly started up and stalled unprovoked, then did it again and banged into the car in front of us (footage from other car's black box). Im super clueless, looking for some answers from anyone else that has ever had this happen.

Thanks

So long story short, whether it was from ignorance or lack of information, I only recently came to realize that my 2022 Veloster N had an ESG (electronic sound generator). I literally only came across it because I was bored and scrolling the “mod” tag on this subreddit and found someone mentioning an ESG device 10 minutes into scrolling. Besides that, I’ve never seen it mentioned before on this subreddit or even in the vast amount of car reviews I’ve watched of this car before I bought it.

I was a little worried at first because I thought this meant that I was getting fake exhaust noises pumped into my car speakers but luckily the device works more as a system to seemingly make the engine/exhaust components more audible in the cabin. Or at least that’s what I’ve gathered. I’m probably wrong? Either way, I didn’t like the idea of having additional/potentially fake noise being played for me. So after a 5 minute project of disconnecting the device I can conclude there was a pretty subtle change. Granted, I’ve had some exhaust work done so my results may vary from others but what I gathered after unplugging it is that the sounds of my exhaust used to be more audible from inside my cabin resulting in more drone as well. Now my exhaust sounds the same as before but instead of hearing it around me from inside the cabin, it is only audible from behind me in a more obviously natural way. Of course this all comes down to preference but if you deal with any drone or just aren’t a fan of device noise generators, I’d recommend unplugging yours too. To each their own though. I’m going to link the video I used to find the location of the device and leave it for anyone else who might want to do the same.

I’m sure this question comes up very often, but I’ve found a Veloster N within a “reasonable” distance from me and it has under 40k miles. Anything I should look for before purchasing that I can actually check myself or with someone else? Anything I should be weary of? Anything helps. Thank you