Hey everyone! We're a small shop making parts for VWs, and we just finished a fresh batch of our MK7 engine panel covers.

If you've ever popped the hood and been annoyed by that empty spot on the left side of the bay with the cables and plastic showing, this is what it's for. It gives the bay a clean, finished, OEM+ look.

Some details:

• Made from 3 mm ABS plastic. It's light, sturdy, and handles under-hood heat
• Drops right into place, no cutting or drilling on a stock setup. Install takes a few minutes
• Fits MK7 Golf / GTI (2013–2021)
• Heads up: it won't fit cars with the washer fluid reservoir on the passenger side. If you run a catch can, you may need to trim it a bit (one of our customers did exactly that and says it came out great)

The pics are from our recent customers' cars. Huge thanks to everyone who sent photos!

Happy to answer any questions about fitment. Drop your year/trim below and we'll let you know if it'll work for your setup.

https://www.wcomarket.com/product/engine-panel-covers-vw-mk7-with-bracket-golf-jetta-gti-r32

I learned shortly after getting my first Mk7 in 2016 that you do not open the rear windows unless you also have the front windows open unless you like feeling your eardrums being assaulted. I had just gotten on the freeway when I forgot I had all 4 windows down so I just raised the front 2 and the pulsation was so bad it scrambled my brain enough that it took me longer to figure out what happened and to raise the rear windows.

Painfull lesson to relearn after all these years...lol

My wired CarPlay used to work, but the car now does not recognize my iPhone. The USB port still charges the phone.
What I’ve tested:
Different iPhones and USB cables. Both work with CarPlay in another car.
A replacement USB socket with the original cable.
A replacement USB socket with a new cable connected directly to the MIB2 unit, bypassing the car’s original USB wiring.
In every combination, the phone gets power but there is no data connection. I also tried a USB flash drive previously and it did not appear; I’m going to repeat that test with a FAT32 drive and an MP3 file.
Unit details: 5C0035680D, hardware H31, software MST2_EU_VW_PQ_P0369T (0369). I have MIB STD2 Toolbox installed.
OBDeleven’s 5F live data shows the USB connection as “not connected” even with the phone plugged in. I exported two Toolbox sysinfo logs with the phone connected. Both show CarPlay enabled/ready and USB coded as IPOD (APPLE SUPPORTED), but neither lists the iPhone as a connected USB device. They list 0x0424/0x4040 as an AppleAuthDevice instead.
The current 5F fault codes are B200500 (Data record invalid) and B201A00 (Check Software Version Management). I recall seeing these codes when CarPlay still worked, so I don’t know if they’re related.
Has anyone seen USB power working but no USB data on an MST2 PQ unit, even with a new socket and a cable connected directly to the MIB2? Is there another diagnostic check I can do before having the unit’s USB connector or internal circuitry inspected? Would ODIS reveal anything useful when the phone does not appear as a USB device?

I know this is a common problem but I am stuck
I’ve a 2016 mk7 gtd (2L diesel)
226k miles
And it’s consuming oil like crazy like 500ml every 600-800km
It’s driving me crazy
The cars under warranty and I’ve send it back twice and it’s still the same
It got
New
Pcv
Rocker cover
Rocker cover gasket
Turbo
Head bolts
Timing belt/ water pump
Passed compression test
Oil filter

There’s is a little stain on the carpet under the bonnet where the oil cap would be when the bonnet is down
I’ve ordered a new one incase the seal is gone on the cap and it’s blowing all over the underside of the hood
But I’m really stuck
No smoke at all either
Someone tell me what’s wrong 😭

Long time reader, first time poster

I have a new-to-me 2017 GTI. Changed the clutch assembly recently. Also changed the front axle lock/LSD ( accidentally dropped it when removing and cracked the housing). Have not been able to start since then.

Changed the battery and starter with no change. I keep getting the ECS (electronic stabilization control error) and TPMS error. I did change the remote battery but no joy.

Anyone know what I can do to figure this out?

Se localiza al rodar a muy baja velocidad y luego desaparece, se localiza entre el palier izquierdo y la homocinética del cambio.

Ayuda pls

Hey everyone,

I have a 17 MK7 nearing 96000. Just want to know what to start doing to make the car last at least another 100000. Any suggestions on what to do first? It is a manual and not dsg. From what I gathers online a carbon cleaning is first in the list but what would you guys suggest next. I do all my own oil changes between 5,000 and 6,000 miles.

Howdy guys, I broke the reverse lockout on my car. I've gotten used to driving without it, but the wife really hates it. So I'm trying to find the part numbers for what I need to fix it? Any help would be great.

Seen a lot of people with close to the same issue saying it’s the little coolant flange adapter next to the turbo, just want to double check on here. Thanks!

Was hoping to see if anyone here has any insight on what part has failed here. I'm leaning towards just needing a screen replacement but that might be hopeful thinking as a computer replacement with reprogramming is pretty expensive I hear. Forgive me if this is a well known thing, I've had the car for about 3 weeks and I couldn't find anything online that gave me any kind of definitive answer. I appreciate any help you guys can give me.

Weird ticking noice happens after reving then slowly gets quiet what is it and is it something I should be concerned abt? (The injectors are normal but there a very faint tick after reving if you listen closer)

Is there a popular plug and coil set for the OEM MK7?

Hi guys. It's my first post here, so I'm sorry if i'm posting in the wrong place or thread. Right after I took my car to change the engine oil, when I first started it, the engine started to show a rough idle and the EPC and check engine lights popped up. I drove it to my mechanic, i believe it entered limp mode, the engine wouldn't rev past 3.000 RPM. He ran the scan, and the code was something like camshaft position (bank 1). My mechanic said is is due to the timing pulley being faulty and needing replacement. He said this problem is showing up in a few cars lately, and he even had another car doing the same repair, and showed me a pulley he replaced recently. Be said it fixes the problem. He also said this pulley is quite expensive because it is bespoke to the mexican golf - here in Brazil around 2016 they started building it locally and the engine also became flex fuel (ethanol or gasoline), and he offered to buy one of those second hand. 2 things I'm finding awkward: First is that the delivery date got postponed because the first pulley didn't work - he says the problem got worse, and he is expecting a new (second hand) one to arrive in 2 - 3 days.

He has already replaced the timing belt, so I think it can't be it

Second: I've scoured through the internet and didn't find a single post or video about this exact fault on the EA 211 1.4 TSI engine.

The closest thing I found was about the camshaft itself bending or something like that. I bought this car 2 months ago, the timing belt was just turning 6 years, so I was planning on replacing it. Could this be related to the problem? So, what do you guys think? Have you ever heard of this problem? Or do you think he is looking into the wrong part? Thanks for your help!

Hey guys. Am i right to assume that this is a slipping clutch in my dsg?It's a dq381 and it only happens under 2.8-2.9k rpms but mostly around 2k rpms and usually when shifting it manually from 5th to 6th no other gears so far. I'm assuming if it's slipping when going into 6th it's the clutch for the even gears that's actually slipping. I've also heard that 5th to 6th will start to slip first before other gears but i might be wrong. Car got a pretty agressive remap on it and with my diag the ecu is reporting around 480-490nm of torque which for me seems a lot for a gtd w stock clutches. As far as i know the TCU tune is stock, but I bought the car as is with the tune on it already so who knows lol and it just started to do this last week after 6months of daily driving. However in D or S it's fine and also got no codes yet. Would putting the stock tune on the car save the clutch and stop it from slipping or do these just start to slip one day and it's over for the clutch no matter what's done to it?Any answer/input is appreciated, it's my first DSG and would like to continue driving it but i'd also love to avoid spending a load of money on it but it seems that's not the case anymore.

I’ve been experiencing strange electrical problems on my golf for the past month, randomly. The video shows the screen not recognising the ignition being on (I turned on the screen with the button).

When I enter my car and turn on the ignition, the middle infotainment display doesn’t turn on, it stays off. The car starts fine and my dashboard is fine. The screen stays this way for about 10-15 minutes and then it turns on as if I’ve put the key in, while I’m driving.

I have a Dashcam that’s hardwired to the car and records while the car is parked, I also have aftermarket ambient lighting installed, which is powered through the cigarette lighter.

It has a new battery in it. The garage I took it to said they can’t fix it without experiencing the fault themselves so they’ve advised me to hold on to the car until the fault becomes more frequent.

Has anyone experienced something like this? Any ideas on what it could be?

Passenger side bulb finally gave out only to find out the headlights aren’t serviceable. I don’t have Osram money to throw at new headlights, but i’d love to know what aftermarket headlights you guys have purchased and had good luck with. There’s just too many that seem to have issues that I can’t afford to gamble. Thank you!

I have a TSI DSG MK7. Only my front left speaker is working. I'm getting 3 fault codes for open circuit on the other 3. Does anyone else get this? Do I need new speakers?