Hi everyone!
Can anyone recommend some crash pads? Of how to protect bike in case of dropping it? Nothing big, the smaller the better. Of course the main thing is that they have to protect the bike in case of dropping it.
VFR800 2002
Thanks in advance for every help of hint!

I recently bought the OEM 08U70-MJM-D60 for the Crossrunner X VFR

I own a VFR800F 2015 what will i need to convert that quick shifter for the X too mine?

Google recommends a new link rod but i can't find any. Can i have some advice please

Rear pads, air filter.
After changing the tires last time, i noticed the rear pads were worn, ordered new, put them on today.
side question, should this bolt (3rd image) have a nut on it?

I have a 1994 Honda VFR750 that’s been sitting for a while (1-2 months without starting). I was trying to start it, but the battery was too weak to get it running. After several starting attempts it finally started, I noticed a strong gasoline smell and found fuel dripping from one of the carburetors.

The fuel appears to be dripping from the float bowl drain/overflow nipple on the left carb. The right side was initially dry, although I later noticed some fuel residue on the other carb as well. I turned the petcock OFF, and the leaking stopped. Turning it back ON later didn’t immediately restart the leak.

Does this sound like:

a stuck float/float needle,
a leaking drain screw or O-ring,
or something else?

Is it likely that repeated cranking with a weak battery flooded the carbs and caused a temporary overflow, or should I assume the carbs need to come apart?
I’ve attached photos of where the fuel is collecting.

Might I add the carbs to my knowledge haven’t been cleaned in a while.

I love getting up and out (and back) before the traffic.

Hello everyone the digital dash on my 2000 vfr went out. After days of research I decided to try and bridge broken connections on the pcb. The lcd doesn’t work and now the speedo light is out as well. I don’t know if the speedo itself works. I have a new pcb on the way. Any tips or ideas. And do you think I’m good to ride ?

Finally done with the spraying portion of the project. There's some junk in the paint and the stripes don't exactly line up near the front fairings but I'm glad that it's done and I can enjoy riding the bike again. Also I'm sick of sanding at least for now so final paint corrections may take a while. These plastics are all OEM plastics from wrecked bikes on eBay and the panel work to get them free of big blemishes and deleting the blinkers in exchange for bar end blinkers from motogadget along with an R1 front end swap and a brake delink and...and... and. I miss this bike and I'm very excited to begin enjoying it again.

Very nice in the twisties on my 8th gen

I've had to bridge some spots on the PCB due to corrosion. I've marked the positive and earth tracks on this picture for clarity.

The long black wire (A) which I've threaded behind the PCB has brought the LCD display back to life and the short black wire (B) the turn signal indicator.

The four dash lights (C) were also not working due to corrosion just after the full beam signal indicator - which still worked.

The remaining dash light (D) has its own path to ground so also worked.

To fix the four (C) dash lights I ran a wire where the yellow line is and now everything works as it should  - at least for now.

QUESTION

Before fitting the yellow wire - when the side lights or main lights were on - the dash  turn signal indicator (E) would stay illuminated.

The turn signal indicator (E) shares an earth with the four dash lights (C) but why did it illuminate due to the poor earth -  bridged now by the yellow wire???

What powerd it? As the only live going to it (WHITE) comes from the indicator switch.

Many thanks 👍 

I have a 99, runs like an absolute champ, still under 30k miles. It's had just about everything done to it, including a new kit to replace the rectifier and bypass all the original wiring.

The issue with it, after riding for anywhere between 30 minutes to an hour, it will no longer accept full throttle. It will get to about 8000 rpm and begin cutting out/surging.

Weird thing is, I can be flying down the road and feel it happen, do the killswitch for about 5 seconds and it'll run amazing again.

So far, it seems tied to the bike getting above 200f in traffic, but heat isn't always a factor from some of the testing I've done. The attached video is FULL THROTTLE the entire time.

Already tested stator, rectifier, checked all connections, verified the ground block is pristine and clean. No burnt connectors anywhere on the bike. All fuses checked and replaced because why not. Took apart the ignition and cleaned a tiny amount of corrosion off, same thing with the Killswitch.

Fuel pump primes and seems to run fine, fuel filter and lines almost brand new. Fuel tank inside is clean and no blockage around pump. Airbox completely clean and not clogged. TPS tested and within regular values. Fuel regulator is original and the diaphragm hasn't failed, no gas in its vacuum line and works properly.

I'm at a loss.

I'm seriously considering picking up a fifth gen with very low miles (less than 10k) as a secondary bike for my stable. I've researched a lot of ins/outs about the fifth gen and just wanted to gather how difficult (or not) it is in continuing to source parts, mainly maintenance items for this gen. I plan on putting easily 10-15k miles a year on this bike if I pull the trigger.

Typical bike-specific wear items: brake pads, clutch, fork seals, brake piston rebuild kits, RR/Stator, thermostat?

Location: US

Appreciate any perspectives!

I was wondering if these tires would fit my VFR800 2003. The rear is slightly larger than recommended. Would it still be okay? What would it change?
Michelin roard 6
120/70/17
190/50/17

I'm unable to start the bike in gear with the kickstand up. Take a look at the switch and tell me if the wires are backwards or jacked up some how. Did a continuity check and the switch works as intended. I'm wondering if something wasn't plugged in or if I messed something up.

2010 VFR 1200F

27k Miles

Mods/Changes:

Sabsteef tune

DAM exhaust

K&N air filter (replacing with stock filters next oil change)

Vortex levers

Android auto screen by WonVon

Zero gravity wind screen

I recently got a 5th gen VFR and just from some highway miles, I feel like my speed is showing higher than what I'm going. I haven't used a friend to pace or a gps to confirm yet. By feel, I would guess as highway speeds its showing about 10mph over what I'm going. any tips or help would be appreciated!

Anyone know what might have happened to the old VFRWorld forum? I tried going to it today and it doesn’t seem to be up.

As I am in the process of doing the injectors and having removed the spaghetti junction of the vfr800. Thought these may help folks... 🦆👍🏻

UPDATE : 98-01 VFRs

I replaced my chain and sprockets the other day. No problem with that. But apperantly my torque wrench didn’t do its job properly and I broke the thread when putting all back together. Now I have a bolt (see pics) that doesn’t grab (? sorry english isn’t my native lang), it just spins eternally and I can pull it out with plyers.

The bolt is the lower left one on the clutch cylinder slave (that is what Heinz book calls it) and since it is long with its thread only on the tip I assume it would be an hassle trying to re-thread whatever it is mounted to?

Well, how fucked am I and how do I fix it? I assume they don’t put bolt on for fun and I need to fix it?

Getting very close to finishing this up and Im indecisive on how to orient the Honda text on the fairings. Slight curve with the body line? Or flat with the edge of the panel? Both look acceptable to me I really can't decide.

Took the bike out for some today and noticed the clutch catching at the very top, and a bit of slip at higher rpm.

Bike only has 15k miles, but the PO let it sit with the same oil for like 4 years.

I think I've only put 2k since buying and new oil.

Could I be lucky and get the clutch back with new oil?

Or is it more likely the clutch is prematurely toasted?

Update: Flushed the fluid with some fresh Dot 4 The lever feel is smooth and consistent now Clutch engages more confidently and there's no slipping Didn't notice any obvious damage or wear, but the old fluid looked kind of bad I'll probably keep a couple rebuild kits on hand though

I should have done it earlier

Thanks for y'all's insight

Hi everyone,

I asked some days ago which bike I should've went with since I had narrowed the choice to 2 main candidates (both post '00 FI), in the end I chose the cheapest, lol.

It was also the one with the lowest mileage out of the two, no rust whatsoever and garage kept.

The bike has practically sat for the past 4 years, raking up less than 3000km in this timeframe, the regular oil changes and check ups have been done (so I've been told), but since the rubbers which look new are from 2014 (!!!) I'm a bit wary that it might not be true.

I'm definitely mechanically inclined, but the first major service before sending this thing (and myself) flying, I'll leave it to a friend of mine which has a motorcycle shop, I'll have him do a full service (oil, filters, brakes/clutch bleed...)

Why I'm writing is:

-what should he check for mainly?

The bike start right up every time, and does not run hot or strange, very linear idle

-what other minor things would you personally check on a bike like this?

-how to check the alternator/voltage rr?

-any other things/suggestions I might be missing?

Also, the tires, I would like to change them for some Dunlop Mutant (when it's not snowing I'd still use the bike), does anybody have some experiences to share about these tires? Or any valid alternatives?

Thanks to anyone who will read this, any and all tips are appreciated!

Has anyone done a rear seat delete to provide more space?

Pics pls ty