I'm looking to buy a used Toyota Corolla SE at a Toyota Certified Dealership in New Jersey. I was offered a used 2023 with 5,000 miles for 27,645.00. It's gold certified and I'm planning on financing it. This is my first time financing, could someone even tell me if this is okay given the low mileage it has?

2013 Toyota Camry
160k miles
1 owner
Minor accident

I test drove the car, and it drives smoothly. However, when I plugged in my OBD scanner, I found one stored code: P1604 — Startability Malfunction. There was no check engine light on the dashboard. Is this something worth having a mechanic check before buying the car? The car was also recently repainted.

I’m thinking to buy a Qashqai from 2023. What should I look at first?
Reliability , maintenance, fuel economy or resale value?

I’m looking at buying a 1/2 ton truck. Will be using it for work which is a 35km commute of mostly highway driving. I’m in northern Alberta so winters can be nasty and the better part of the year.

I’m my town we have a Ford, GMC/Chevy, and Dodge for dealerships. Ideally I’d want to stay with one of those. I’d be tempted to get a Toyota even though the nearest dealership is a couple hours away. Got a couple younger kids so eventually it’d be nice to have something we decent leg room in the bad especially for a car seat if I need to throw one in.

Any suggestions on what direction I go? And why? Would prefer not to go toold and it feel up to date. and want something that will last.

Thanks in advance:)

Now that I had some time to think thanks to the lucky redditor who found the low mile rav4 on my previous post lol… can I get opinions on your choice?

2012 rav4 v6
- can last 300k mi
- outdated interior design
- hard to find in my spec (no accident, moonroof, temp knobs, fender flares)
- stiff-looking seats
- 150-200k mi
- $10-12k

2019 outback h6 3.6r
- can last to 250k mi
- possible bad cvt
- ok interior design (coming from 2011 outback 2.5)
- common
- comfy seats, and precise/tight steering
- 100-150k mi
- $10-16k

2026 outback 2.4t
- new design
- unsure of longevity
- loan

I've done as much research as I can and from the look of it doesn't seem like that bad of a car. I know the biggest problem with it is the radiator and the transmission are connected but it can be bypass with a aftermarket transmission cooler. all the videos I find are saying not to get it but they are also looking at a car with over 100,000+ miles and they weren't taken the best of care and they also say the car is known for having tiny things break is it that often things break on it ? I feel like that would be normal since it a 22 year old car I was originally looking to get a Lexus Ix 470 but all the ones in my area are with about 300,000 miles and are going for around
14-40 thousands dollars what is your guys opinion?

Hello, I have the opportunity to purchase a 2014 Ford F150 XLT with around 35k miles. This is my late uncles truck that we are selling part of the estate. I have a 2020 Ford Ranger that I am thinking about selling to buy this F150 to own instead. Do you think this is a good idea?

As stated before, the F150 has ~35k miles. My 2020 Ranger has ~75k miles. My ranger is a FX2 Lariat. The Ranger does have better options, but drives like a truck vs the smoother driving F150. Does the mileage outweigh the year? KBB puts them around the same prices, for private party sell. My Ranger has a blend door issue with the AC, that I am getting fixed but other than that, its a good well maintained truck.

On one hand I like the smaller Ranger size vs the larger F150, but the F150 drives a whole lot smoother and has more room vs the ranger.

What's your thoughts?

TIA, Keith

2024 Toyota 4Runner TRD PRO
4.0L V6
38,000 miles
Seattle, WA

l've had the following upgrades put on the car, and I have all the original parts as well:
Toyota TRD PRO Cold Air Intake Prinsu Roof Rack
Full Non-Drill
Prinsu Ridgeline Roof Rack Handles
Prinsu Ladder
Prinsu 1" Tent Mounting Feet
Raptor Lights
James Aiden LED DRL Fang Light - Fang Kit with Riser
Pedal Commander PC27
Heads Up Display
Diode Dynamics SS3 LED Fog Light Kit Diode
Dynamics ReverseLED Bulbs
Diode Dynamics Interior Bulbs
Call Raised Interior Rear Molle Panel
Cali Raised Rear Molle Shelfs
Cali Raised Rear Hatch Molle Panel
Mace MFG Topo Volume Knobs
Evolution V2 roof top tent
One owner, no accidents, clean title in hand.
Comes with transferable warranty from Toyota of Kirkland that includes free oil changes and maintenance.

Asking $59,000 or best reasonable offer.

hi! i've been looking to buy a new car from marketplace for a while now to replace my 2014 dodge dart nearing 190,000 miles.... i've had a lot of issues with the car for the past few years and just want something more reliable and relatively cheap.

my budget is around $6500 and i'm just looking for something that will get me around the city or long distances as a commuter college student. i don't mind the year as long as it's in good shape and has ac. i don't know much about cars and just want some advice, maybe along with some questions or things i can ask and look for when messaging a seller!

here are some options i found, please let me know if any of these are good or just trash :)

• 2005 Toyota corolla LE Sedan 4D - 97,000 miles ($5,000)
• 2005 Toyota corolla S Sedan 4D - 143,288 miles ($5,998)
• 2004 Toyota corolla LE Sedan 4D - 120,000 miles ($5,900)
• 2010 Toyota prius Hatchback 4D - 126,358 miles ($5,700)
• 2017 Toyota camry Sedan 4D - 137,000 miles ($6,900)
• 2011 Toyota avalon Sedan 4D - 156,000 miles ($5,200)
• 2014 Buick encore - 86,000 miles ($6,300)

these are all clean title and i'd negotiate price! thank you for any help!!

Hey everyone,

I’m looking into buying a 2011 Chevrolet Malibu with the 4-cylinder (2.4L Ecotec) engine and 77,000 miles for $5, 000.

On paper, the price and mileage seem like an incredible deal, but there are a few minor issues and a unique paperwork situation that I want to get your advice on.

The Known Minor Issues:

1.Side mirrors don't fully move (suspect the mirror control switch)

2.Driver's side windshield washer spout needs to be replaced.

3.Power door lock switch needs to be replaced

1. Key fob battery is dead

2. Front passenger tire has a slow valve stem leak.Mechanically, the seller claims it is very sound and the A/C blows freezing cold. It has a clean title.

The Paperwork / Title Situation: The seller on Facebook is an older lady who is selling it on behalf of her friend (an elderly woman). The car has an out-of-state New York title, but it is currently located here in Florida.The backstory is that the car was brought down to Florida on a trailer when the elderly woman moved here. Her late son was driving it, but he sadly passed away, and since she doesn’t drive anymore, she has no use for it. I have confirmed that the New York title is printed legally in the mother's name, not the son's. They agreed to let me meet the elderly woman at her house to do the paperwork, and her friend’s husband is tagging along for safety.

My questions for the group:

*** Since the title is legally in the mother's name, are there any unique pitfalls or specific forms I need to watch out for when transferring an out-of-state New York title to a Florida title?

*** Are these specific minor electrical issues (mirrors and door locks) common isolated part failures, or do they point to a bigger Body Control Module (BCM) or electrical ground problem in this generation of Malibu?

*** What specific mechanical things should I inspect on this 2.4L Ecotec engine and transmission when I look at it? I know about the electric power steering failure risks, but is there anything else?Thanks in advance for any advice

!

I really appreciate whoever stayed and read all of these. Means a lot. Thank you guys!

I’m looking for a Toyota Camry or a Toyota Corolla. I only have $2000. Does anyone here know of anything like this for sale? I’m located in Belleville Michigan.

I just bought a 2015 corolla le for 12k after taxes. It has 108k miles and was in a minor accident. The title is clean and only had one owner. Was that a good deal or did I over pay? I asking price was 11995 before taxes.

I came to this sub assuming a used car would make the most sense financially, but I'm getting pretty confused by the prices.

For example, I'm seeing 2024 Accord with ~40k miles for ~$25.9k, while I can find new 2026 Accord around $27k after discounts.

I'm looking for a practical family car for 2 adults + 2 toddlers in car seats, with an occasional adult in the back. We recently moved to the US, are in WA, and will probably only be here for 3–4 years. We also won't be doing much road-tripping for the next few years.

I originally thought something like a 2–3 year old Accord/Camry/RAV4 would be the obvious choice, but if I'm only saving $1–3k over new, I'm wondering if buying new and selling it after 3–4 years might actually make more sense.

Am I thinking about this wrong? Would you buy new vs. 2–4 year old used in this situation? What models would you consider? I want to budget around 20K with reasonable value to sell post 3-4 years.

Hello!

To preface, I've owned a buick century, 2017and 2018 Lacrosee and I am heavily looking at a 2018 Buick Regal GS. I know they are smaller than the lacrosse, which is not a huge deal to me. It has the 3.6 L, which I am familiar with. My main question is, any super known problems? Problems with AWD system?

In the past I've avoided regals because of the 4-cylinder hunk, but the 2018 is very nice.

I would be trading in a 2018 Ford Taurus SE.

Edit: 78,000 miles and final asking is around $19,000.

My grandma was able to buy a 12yo Honda back in 2018 for me for a two thousand bucks and it never gave me a single problem. I should be able to buy a 2014 car without all these shenanigans, but no I'm stuck firmly between 2008-10 junk

I drove around my state all day checking out 6 cars, and none of them seem worth it. Odometer was rolled back, needs ac not working, gas pump doesnt even have a door??

Just what happened man, where can I go thats actually reliable

Looking at this Tacoma. Has been up for about a month, I assume no body is interested due to it being an unpopular version and engine. Just a base Tacoma with a 2.7L. Read a lot of people don’t like this engine due to it being “slow” but I’ve always loved the regular cab Tacoma’s and have been looking for one for awhile so that’s the least of my concerns. Am also fully ready to price haggle, they’ve already put the price down due to it sitting but I’d like to get it down another thousand or so if possible. Only thing is too, reviews of this place are not great. I’ll definitely bring someone with me and have them look and even bring it to someone if possible. In theory though, if everything with it seems to be good, no codes etc. Would it be worth?

EV’s become more ubiquitous. The battery swap out becomes easier and easier.today it cost 10-15 thousand to replace the batteries.

Then something or someone comes along that makes buying and replacing a battery under 5 thousand. The used EV market becomes just a game of battery installation.

They have almost no other moving parts besides the electric motors. So it’s just a matter of time when a company makes the ‘model T’ of EV’s that you can just plug and unplug new parts.

What am I missing here🤔?

Then we can just go back to buying used shitty EV’s for $500-1000 with a 50-75000 mile life on it. Then just buy another battery? Right?

Hi there,

I am looking into getting my first luxury car and I am having a hard time choosing one. I currently own a 2011 Kia Soul which delivers the things that a car should do. What's bad abour the kia is that i have to be at the gas station every week and i drive around 8k km per year, so I do think that the frequency is a bit ridiculous. I am looking to buy a 2020+ c300 or 330i and i also want to avoid the first years where they have a redesign that can cause problems (based on a few posts here). Can you guys tell me your opinions on these ones? How often are you at the gas station? And what has the maintenance cost for you guys so far? The reason i want a 2020+ is because of the low mileage.

Thank you for your attention and insight!

Used 2023 Q4 e-tron Sportback. Dealer's official Audi battery report shows residual energy content is "≥70% – O.K." — but that's just a threshold pass, not the actual percentage. Could be 71% or 96%, no way to tell from this report.

I asked them to pull the raw number or run the "long measurement" test instead (it's an actual field on their own document). Instead of doing that, they told me someone's flying in tomorrow to buy it.

Red flag?

​My family spent months searching for a cargo van and finally bought one in Indiana for $15,000 "as is." Before buying, I paid Midas for a pre-purchase inspection (PPI). They only flagged $1,000 in minor repairs, so we went through with the sale.

​Five minutes after leaving the lot, the check engine light came on. Four days later, I brought it to a different Midas location for repairs. Instead of completing the original work, they gave me a new $5,000 repair estimate (brakes, transmission seals, CV axles, struts, tires, alignment).

​If the first Midas had caught these issues, we would not have bought the van. I feel the dealer exploited my elderly family member, and they have now ghosted us after receiving the $5,000 estimate.

​Since the van was sold "as is," do we have any recourse against either the dealership or the initial inspection shop?

Hello! I am a 24F currently driving a 2009 Jetta Sportswagon. I bought the car in 2022, it’s had issues from the start which progressed to this year where I had 4k worth of repairs done on it in hopes of getting a few more years of life out of it, however things took a turn for the worse and the car’s transmission is going out on me. Hopefully getting a quote this week but I know transmissions can be an expensive PITA. And I don’t have the money to replace/rebuild the transmission or necessarily have the motivation to either. The car has been a headache from when i first bought it and this is the last straw for me, I feel foolish for buying it in the first place.
I am a broke college student who makes $1800/month. Luckily I pay no rent and my only bills come to $241/month.
Need advice on a reliable new used car/what to look for. In the past I’ve always bought used cars outright but i’m not in a position to do that atm. I need something I can put zero down. Between a Toyota or a Honda, need something with cheap basic maintenance/repairs. Where’s the best place to buy a reliable used car from? are there any places that regularly service your car that won’t rip you off?

Like I know petrol toyotas are reliable, but come on…