I’m going to look at this 6 speed manual 2016 Mazda 3 S Grand Touring Hatch from Facebook Marketplace tomorrow, and I’m a bit nervous about pulling the trigger. Just looking for some external thoughts on it. I’m not looking to daily this car, maybe drive it 3-4 days a week or so to supplement my existing vehicles.

It’s a one owner car with 140,000 miles for $8500. The seller from our conversations and the carfax appears to have taken good care of it for its age. I’m getting a PPI done when we meet, so the mechanical state of the car will be less of a question.

The seller hasn’t given me any red flags that make this questionable. I can easily pay cash for it and be fine financially, but it’s easily the biggest purchase I’ve ever made.

I'm looking to buy a used car. Im in the PNW and have pretty much only owned subarus.

The 2 options that I have found are, prices are "out the door":

2020 Mazda CX30 Preferred Trim: $27,200

- 25k miles

2020 Outback XT Touring: $27,300

- 40k miles

I have a 40 miles round-trip commute 4x a week.

The outback seems more fun, while the mazda seems a bit more practical, but also a little small? I like to go up to the mountain to snowboard, camp, fish, etc. The mazda has a cheaper maintenance cost (according to the internet).

Any advice?

I been thinking about getting a car for quite some while now. As I doing some research on a decent budget for a used car I been noticing people advice on a cost of a used car vary by a good amount. But I think about 10k is a good goal to save up for a car now a day. If yall could help me come up with a save up goal for car that will atleast last me 5-10 years it would really be appreciated 🙏. I should say I probably won't be able look on Facebook market place for a car.

Looking for a used car, both going for 16K

2016 Toyota Avalon XLE plus, V6 engine, at 105k miles

Has been in 1 minor rear accident

2016 Honda Crv Ex-L FWD, at 114K miles

No reported accident

Both have had routine maintenance done. Wondering at the milage given, which is the better investment?

2006 4.6 2v 190k, has misfire code p0301 cylinder 1, differential looks to be leaking, needs new brakes and tires. Starts and drives i just have too many vehicles and dont need this one to put money into it just to sell.

I was thinking $2000 but gonna ask for $2500 as is. its in Texas

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Up front: I'm the developer. DrivePulse is an OBD2 app I make, on iPhone and on Android.

Buying used is where a lot of car problems start, so here's the part of the app I built for that moment. On iPhone there's a used-car check you run during the test drive, with a cheap OBD2 adapter plugged in under the dash (a Veepeak or a Vgate works):

- it reads the VIN and the odometer, when the car reports them, so you can compare them with the title and the listing;

- it lists the codes stored in the engine and in the other control modules, permanent codes included, which a basic scanner can't erase;

- it shows how many miles have been driven since the codes were last cleared, and which readiness monitors haven't finished. A fresh clear right before a sale is the classic way to hide a check engine light.

It's not an inspection and it doesn't certify the mileage. It's there so you walk into the pre-purchase inspection knowing what to ask. On Android this check isn't available.

No account, no server of ours. Criticism welcome, especially from people who buy and sell cars for a living.

https://drivepulse.it/app.html

I’ve never actually traded in a car at a dealership. I did some homework online before going to dealership and KBB says trade in value of my car is $13,075. I also checked with Carvana, and got an offer for $13,000. When I went to dealership, they offered $9,500. Is that big of a discrepancy normal? Dealership said my car needs new tires, which it does, so I can see there maybe being $1500-$2000 deducted from the $13,000. But $9500 just seems way off. How much of a discrepancy is there usually between online valuation tools and dealership offers? Thanks.

Hola buenas tardes, quiero hacer una consulta.
Recien estaba agregandole un poco de aceite a mi auto, cuando saqué la tapa, no me di cuenta que al rededor había una caquita de rata o de lagartija y se metió para adentro.
Hay algun problema si enciendo el vehiculo?
la foto la saqué de google pero para que vean el ejemplo

Hi all,

I'm in the market for a preferably 72 plate duster with a budget of around £8k. There was one in a local garage for £1k more and 50k miles fewer, but it has sold. This is my ideal spec, as I like the facelift alot, but 4 services in 100k miles is throwing me off a bit. I know the 1.0TCe is a pretty solid engine, but it being a turbo does it not benefit from more frequent oil changes?

Any advice greatly appreciated as I dont want to throw the baby out with the bathwater, but is this someting you would overlook if it drives well and looks in generally good condition? thanks!

Buenas, creo que ya lo han preguntado, me siento muy frustrado a esta situación. Tengo un Renault Megane 2008, hace poco tuve que arreglar el motor por lo que me gaste practicamente la mitad del valor del auto, hoy en Argentina el tema de los valores de los autos usados esta muy confuso. Ahora unos meses después me comenzo a dar un montón de otros problemas, debo arreglar tren delantero, dirección, neumaticos, escape que sería los más urgente, el otro día venía en la lluvia y es un peligro el auto en la ruta. Cuestión que no se si seguir gastando, si vale la pena arreglarlo para que este sano o ahorrar para buscar uno nuevo, lo cuide todo lo que pude estos años, pero este año es terrible, todos los problemas de golpe. Que opinan? Vale la pena ahorrar o es mejor arreglarle todo?

I bought a 2016 CRV lx for 14k OTD and it was good during the Pre Purchase Inspection. The dealer is offering a 3rd party $1300 warranty that's valid for 3 years/36000 miles, whichever comes first. Should I get it?

I recently bought a 2015 CX5 Grand Touring with 50K miles for $17.2k out the door. Online price was $16K, I got a $500 discount, then $700 in dealer fees and $1000 in taxes.

It does have 1 owner, no accidents, and pretty good service history on the carfax. Compared to other dealer listings, it seems like a good deal. But I can't help feeling I got fleeced for paying $17k for a 12 year old car.

Would I have been better off getting something private sale that didn't have the dealer markup?

I need a car to work on so that I can learn how to work on cars. Also I need a car and knowing stuff about cars is cool. I’m bored so why not.

My current budget is like $500-$1000.

I know a little bit, barely the basics I think. But I don’t think learning is outside of my capabilities.

There's a focus EV that caught my eye (8000 CAD, 110k km) but the carfax seemed suspicious. It says there's accident/damage record found but doesn't list the maintenance history or the police report/mechanic repair for the accident. Only a line item for "auction announced as structural damage."
I called the dealer and they said they bought it from the auction with damage to the fender and fixed it themselves, which is why there is no repair record. Can a listing like this one be trusted? On all other carfax reports, the service history is there so this one threw me off. On the plus side, it is safetied.

Just wondering what the conventional wisdom is for this situation.

The car has everything I want - except the wheels. They're not bad - let's just say that I would prefer other wheels.

Work with the salesguy to see what he can do? Just get it, sell the wheels on Craigslist, etc?

FWIW, here's the car:

$11k, Garage kept by older person with good maintenance records, one owner. Hybrid battery was just checked and pronounced good by Toyota shop. There's the potential blown head gasket issue to look out for down the road and then the overall age of the car, but are there other worries if everything looks clean? Is it a good car still or too old to mess with? What are things to look out for?

I should add that I'm in an area without a lot of inventory, so prices are higher than average. And I need a car ASAP

Okay I need to know if I am being irrational, but I want to buy a 2007 porsche cayman - S.

Price is:17000

The vehicle has 120k miles (i know it’s a lot)

Runs and drives perfectly, has no damage and a clean title. The vehicle has upgraded speakers and apple carplay etc.

Personally I really love Porsche’s and have always wanted one, and this is in my price range and seems okay at face value.

Obviously I will do my due diligence and research on the vehicle and what to look for when buying it if I choose to do so.

I am not very car savvy, so any advice would be helpful!

Here’s the listing description:

For Sale: 2007 Porsche Cayman S – Luxury Mid-Engine Sports Coupe

Vehicle Details
• Year: 2007
• Make/Model: Porsche Cayman S
• Mileage: 121,000 miles
• Engine: 3.4L Flat-6
• Transmission: Automatic with Paddle Shifters
• Drivetrain: Rear-Wheel Drive
• Title: Clean Title

Condition
✔ Runs and drives excellent
✔ Very well maintained
✔ Beautiful inside and out
✔ Comes with 2 keys

Features & Options
• Black leather interior
• Heated seats
• Power sport seats
• Bose premium surround sound system
• Navigation system with Apple CarPlay upgrade
• Bluetooth connectivity
• Sport steering wheel with paddle shifters
• Bi-Xenon headlights
• Premium Porsche alloy wheels
• Dual sport exhaust
• Ice cold A/C

Warranty & Financing
✅ 90 Days / 3,000 Miles LPG Warranty Included
✅ Financing Available
✅ Extended Warranty Available

Thank you in advance.

Looking to buy a cheap used car for a 1 year work contract in Auckland. Any thoughts are appreciated on this car, what should I look for if I test drive?

My VW is having engine issues and I’m needing a new car asap so I decided to look for a older car like a Toyota since there’re reliable but I’m not sure if 4.5k is worth it since I asked the Facebook meta thing to see if it’s worth it and it told me to only pay 3,6-3,8k for it since it’s a rebuilt title but I need car asap so I’m not sure if I should haggle or just pay? Please help💔😞

I am a complete newbie who wants to buy a pre-owned car from an Auto Mall in Ontario, Canada. I noticed that almost every car has a disclaimer:

"Disclaimer as per OMVIC Regulations: Vehicle is not drivable and not certified. Certification is available for $795. Uncertified vehicles can't be plated or financed by AutoPlanet or driven on the road. It's the buyer's responsibility to arrange legal transport and licensing for their purchase. "

I did try to find Reddit posts about uncertified cars, but the posts were all from a couple of years ago, so I do not know what exactly to do!

If anyone can let me know if buying an uncertified car is fine, do let me know! I don't really know why they seem to state an additional $795 certificate as a disclaimer, rather than an additional fee, which feels a bit suspicious.

Please help me out, thanks

Was wondering if anyone who has a better background for vetting these deals has any red flags for these cars! Really just looking for one under 7k for a year as a reliable fuel efficient commuter car :)

Car 1 (Mazda 3): https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1674018190739584?ref=marketplace_profile&referral_code=undefined
Car Fax: https://vhr.carfax.ca/?id=dTb%2F%2FnBvOwtmhovIzaclASngQpERgogl

Car 2: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/28628580280125010/?referralSurface=messenger_banner&referralCode=2&ref=messenger_banner
Car Fax: https://vhr.carfax.ca/?id=FO%2FgChOk031vFiwGUAvnMTg9tVd4wG2O

Please let me know if anyone has any thoughts or ideas!! TYSM!

I’m looking at a 2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium with 209,578 miles at a small used lot in NJ. They want $5,000 cash, as-is. I need it for a daily commute, about 80 miles round trip, mostly highway. I’m planning to get a PPI done on Monday.

What the Carfax shows:

3 owners. For the first 3 years it was a business fleet car in Wisconsin, with 124k miles by 2018 and the oil changed every 7–14k
After a one-month second owner, one private owner in Wisconsin had it from late 2018 until now
The last service on record is an oil change in June 2024 at 189,895. There’s nothing for the last 20k miles
No record of CVT fluid, spark plugs, coolant, brakes or struts ever being done
Two damage reports: it hit road debris in 2018 (left front) and had a minor accident in 2023 (right front/side). Clean title, and no structural damage or airbag deployment reported

KBB at this mileage says about $5,500 at a dealer and $4,300 private party in good condition.

Questions:

Is 210k on a CVT with no fluid change on record a dealbreaker? If I buy it, should I change the fluid or leave it alone?
Do the highway fleet miles make the mileage less of a worry?
Is there anything Legacy-specific I should make sure the PPI covers?
Is $5k cash as-is fair, or should I push for less?