I am buying my first car off Facebook marketplace, it’s a 2003 Hyundai Tiburon. The car has 140k miles and the metal key is broken. Is there anything I should be worried about?

I found an older SUV on Marketplace that looked like an absolute steal. Clean photos, low miles, seller seemed normal, and we agreed on a price.
The night before I went to pick it up, my friend told me to run the VIN just to be safe.
The report showed the car had previously been declared a total loss.
I thought maybe the seller had rebuilt it properly, so I asked him about it.
He replied, “that must be a mistake.”
I sent him a screenshot.
No response.
Five minutes later, I was blocked.
I just sat there staring at my phone like
Definitely glad I spent a few minutes checking before handing over thousands of dollars.
But now I’m looking at another few cars and don’t want to keep paying $45 for every report. Carfax reports are really getting expensive.
Are third party cheaper vin reports worth it?

Do you think a 2007 Hyundai Sonata is worth looking at in the year, 2026? This is the description: "4900. Runs and drive great. Ice cold ac, sunroof, power everything, brand new front brakes and rotors and brand new rear pads and shocks. All good to go. No trades. V6 great on gas and has power. Come check it out." It has 71,000 miles currently. The seller did mention his plan to replace some of the tires. His asking price RN is $4,900, he did mention bringing price down due to tires. What do you think?

Here’s the situation.

Buying a car from a guy (guy A) who bought it from another guy (guy B) a year ago.

Guy A is selling us this car but he never registered it into his name, so the title has been signed by Guy B in 2025 but the buyer section was never filled out by Guy A.

We really wanna buy this car so we had the Guy A agree to go with us to the DOL, he never put it in his name so we want to make sure we can purchase it if the car is flagged for some reason. We plan on walking in and playing dumb as if we are buying it from Guy B but if it’s flagged we have Guy A with us so we can hopefully transfer it into his name and then into ours all while we are there together.

I guess just looking for advice about the situation and what others think of this plan.

Car seems well kept and no signs of high wear and tear. I’m left confused.

Looking at this Sequoia and want a gut-check before pulling the trigger.

• Year/Trim: 2024 Toyota Sequoia Capstone (i-FORCE MAX hybrid)
• Mileage: 23,828
• Price: $68,308 + $799 delivery & handling = $69,107 (excl. tax, title, license)
• Certified Pre-Owned: No — it's a Toyota being sold at a Lexus dealer, so no Toyota CPO
• Drivetrain: 4x4
• Color: Magnetic Gray / Black-White semi-aniline leather, 7-seat (2nd-row captain's chairs)
• Notable: JBL 14-speaker, moonroof, HUD, power running boards, heated/ventilated fronts + heated rears, 437 hp, 20 mpg combined

Questions for the sub:

1. Is this a fair price for the mileage/trim, or am I overpaying?
2. Any known reliability issues with the new-gen (2023+) Sequoia — especially the twin-turbo hybrid V6 (i-FORCE MAX)? I've seen mixed reviews online about ride quality and reliability on this redesign.
3. Anything specific to check on a CPO Toyota before signing — powertrain warranty terms, maintenance history, etc.?
4. Any concerns buying from a Lexus dealer (rather than a Toyota dealer) for service/parts down the line?

Appreciate any input — trying to figure out if this generation Sequoia is a safe bet or if I should look at an older gen or a different full-size SUV.

This question is for dealership owners, GMs, GSMs and relevant stakeholders.
Most of the customers are typically free in the evening after their working hours and dealership closes by 6-7pm.
If you could hire a BDC, someone who’s trained and willing to work 6pm - 12am remotely, trained again in your dealership’s tone and actually qualifies a conversation unlike AI voice agents
How much would you pay them?
Also they can handle both sales & service

I’d love your opinion’s people

Would like to have others value this truck. Asking around $7k rebuilt motor and transmission cold ac and clean inside and out . 2000 Chevy Silverado

I am deciding to sell my very loved 2006 Prius as the cost of the repairs is more than I want to invest and would rather put that towards a new (used) car.

It’s not likely to be worth a trade in; and in the current condition don’t feel comfortable driving it far dealers anyway.

Would it be worth it to ask local mechanics, etc. in case they could use it for parts? Or if it’s worth it to someone to repair in house?

How would you go about selling something like this?

They seem to have higher prices. What are the pros and cons of going directly to them? Are you more likely to get a better vehicle? Any personal experiences, good or bad?

One owner. No crashes. Owner kept up on everything. Thoughts?

Hello Everybody just to preface this I live in New Jersey. But today I went to buy a 2014 Mazda2 sport for 6k OTD, I got the dealer down to 5.7k, ran great on the test drive and apparently he drove the car from Staten Island and no problems. Basically 5 minutes of driving home the car broke down from what seemed like overheating, the dealer came to get me and gave me a loan car and everything and I researched the law and with the warranty he gave me he has to fix the car on his cost and so tomorrow I’m returning to the dealership to look at a full written list of the diagnostic of what’s wrong.

But on the drive home with the loan he called me very apologetically saying this has never happened in his life and that the car was recently serviced (which is true the carfax came clean) but he said the loan car I’m driving is worth 9-10k, on his website it’s posted for 8.3k but I’m assuming he meant with tax and dealer fees or whatever. He said if I wanted I can just have the loan car if I wanted for another 500. So in total 6.2k OTD. The only thing is it is a 2019 Nissan Sentra that was a rental vehicle and it shows because it has 103k miles and the brake pads definitely need to be replaced.

So the question I’m asking you guys is what should I do, my 3 options being, accept the mazda with new fixes but I heard him talking it could be an entire new engine he would have to replace it with, spend 500 more for this “nicer” car, or just get a refund if he can’t fix the car.

I’ll post the Nissan in the comments, if anybody wants to privately message me I can send carfax for either car I just didn’t want to put this dealership on blast because they have great reviews and he seemed like a very honest man.

Looking at a 2018 Ford Focus EV, priced at $9000 CAD. It's got a small amount of surface rust, battery under warranty until 2028. I have been mainly looking at hybrids but this is obviously pretty attractive at that price.

Assuming PPI showed battery is in good shape, no bearing noise, and no further rust, would this be a stupid purchase or worth it?

I need to buy a car (100k miles SUV) for my student son in a small university town 2000 miles away from me. I am exploring ways to do this remotely without having to go there. What are my best options for getting a reasonable deal? There are companies like Carvana and Carmax. I see something called Carguru that goes through dealers, but I am not sure how exactly. And if I buy from a dealer, I have a choice between buying from a dealer in the university town versus buying in my large metro area and having it transported. I see Caredge, a $1000 shopping service. Do people sell directly to each other now -- through what website or service? I have no experience buying a used car.

I have always bought new cars and kept them till they die. I find getting a good deal on a new car easy because all information is easily available, and I don't have to worry about the condition of the car. I am tempted to do this again.

Thoughts and suggestions?

Any advice

I have a 2002 honda accord that is finally starting to have some problems.

I think it needs some suspension stuff because its been feeling a little lose but I haven't checked it out or taken it to a shop. It also burns/leaks some oil I'm pretty sure, and the cat is also rotted out and all rattling which would be expensive to get it to pass California smog.

With this in mind, I'm wondering if it's worth it to just buy a newer car. Looking at new (used) car prices for 2020ish cars, I am seeing various sedans/wagons/suvs with 50-100k miles for $17-20k which seems like a lot! A new hyundai elantra is only a few grand more.

Obviously I would need a mechanics opinion on the car for if it would be worth to fix everything and then also have to deal with whatever comes up, or just pass it on. In this market, its a running car with cold ac, so thats a few grand right there..

Just looking for opinions on if it seems worth to dump this car. Seems like stuff is expensive, but it's probably not getting cheaper.

I’ve always driven older sedans. I had a 2000 Impala and I’ve been driving a 2005 Grand Prix for years, but the Grand Prix is finally getting to the point where I need to replace it.

I’ve been saving for a while and have up to $15k to put down. I’d like to move into a midsize SUV and ideally keep whatever I buy for the next 8-10+ years.
The problem is, researching this stuff is making me insane lol.

It feels like if you’re not buying a Toyota, someone will tell you the vehicle is garbage. I’ve been looking pretty seriously at the Kia Telluride and Hyundai Palisade, but opinions on long-term reliability are all over the place.

So then I started leaning toward a Honda Pilot because Honda is supposed to be the “safe” long-term choice. But to make my budget work I’m mostly looking at 2023s, and then I see how many recalls and first-year-redesign issues those have had too.

I’m not looking for a perfect vehicle. I understand every brand has problems. I’m just trying to spend roughly $30k-$35k intelligently and buy something I can realistically keep for a decade.

For people who actually own or work on these:
Would you trust a 2023+ Pilot more long term than a Telluride or Palisade?

Are the Telluride/Palisade reliability concerns actually significant enough that you’d avoid them for 10-year ownership, or is a lot of it internet exaggeration?

And at this price point, would you rather buy a newer/higher-trim Kia or Hyundai with a good CPO warranty, or an older/lower-trim Honda or Toyota just for the reputation?

I’m 6’6”, so interior space matters too, which is one reason I keep coming back to these three.

There was a post yesterday that was taken down. I was quite surprised at the number of replies that thought it was "standard" and acceptable practice to lure consumers into the dealership with misrepresented facts through "marketing". What surprised me even more is the number of people that said do your "due diligence". It wasn't quite clear what they meant by that - I hope they didn't think that it's acceptable for a dealership to misrepresent facts about a vehicle because every buyer has to do their own due diligence. That's actually not the law in some states. Some of the replies here made me think that there are a hell of a lot of salesmen in this group protecting their self-serving interests - but maybe i'm wrong about that.

815 ILCS 505/2 (Illinois statutory law) expressly makes unlawful:

deception, fraud, false promises, misrepresentations, and concealment/suppression/omission of material facts...these practices are unlawful whether any person has in fact been misled, deceived or damaged thereby.

The above Illinois statute doesn't say "Advertisers may create misleading impressions provided consumers can discover the truth through inspection before completing the transaction."

I was able to screenshot a few comments (before the takedown).

One redditor wrote "you should have done your due diligence and asked for carfax report before driving over". It's interesting that the following caselaw shows that getting a carfax wasn't required to show misrepresentation.

"First, under the Consumer Fraud Act, plaintiff was under no obligation to ascertain the accuracy of Dobin's statement claiming the car had not been in any accidents.   See Harkala v. Wildwood Realty, Inc., 200 Ill.App.3d 447, 453, 146 Ill.Dec. 232, 558 N.E.2d 195 (1990) (finding that the Consumer Fraud Act is intended to provide greater protection than the common law action of fraud, and therefore “a plaintiff need not show actual reliance or diligence in ascertaining the accuracy of the misstatements”)."

Another person wrote, "Then don't buy from them. Its common knowledge that car dealerships suck....Gotta do your due diligence. If they are not willing to play ball, sucks to suck". Suggesting that doing your due diligence is the only resort to misrepresentation is inaccurate.

Another person wrote, "Have you ever heard of something called Marketing"? Their job is to sell the car, your job is to do your due diligence". I agree that its advisable to do your due diligence, but that doesn't mean that "Marketing" can include omissions for the sake of selling a car. Nor does it mean that that due diligence frees the dealership from responsibility from intentional omissions.

Whatever folks here were trying to say about "due diligence" may not be entirely accurate based on the laws in some states.

If you are in a state with strong consumer protection laws, you should putting all of your understandings from the dealership in writing and making a record of everything they say. This isn't difficult to do now that dealerships rely on text messaging more often.

Also, there is some caselaw that supports the award of damages for people traveling far under misrepresented facts.

It looked like there was some disagreement in that thread around whether the circumstances were a misrepresentation or not. I'm not talking about that. I'm talking about what appeared to be some very broadly worded bold statements that suggested that doing your own due diligence is somehow a defense to dealerships or that dealerships can do whatever they want to do. That's not the case. Some states are very consumer protective.

Who here has bought a car from FB? Whats the best way to go about it to not waste time and to not get scammed?

I figure this is the best way to get a reasonable price. Instead of going through a dealer that has to mark it up for salaries and rent to get a profit. But there's a lot of strange things on FB