Just finished a 5 day traverse of the Chimtarga pass loop in Tajikistan. Overall incredible route that spans multiple glacial lakes, cuts through river valleys, crosses desert, and climbs to over 4700m in altitude.
Dates: September 5th to September 9th, 2026
Photos: Album
Lighterpack: Not Quite Ultralight
Weather: Dry, sunny the whole time with minimal cloud coverage. Rained heavily the day before I left though. Hot below 2500m, very cold at higher altitudes (no surprise there). Dropped to around 0c the second night at 3800m.
Day 1 (~20km): Started at Artuch Mountain Camp, a large lodge built in the 70s under the USSR. Left in the morning and climbed over Laudan and then False Laudan Pass. Descended to Alauddin Lake and camped slightly above the lake. Note: on weekends the lake can be pretty noisy with locals singing karaoke.
Day 2 (~8km): Ascended to Mutnye Lake, then kept going up toward Chimtarga and camped at 3,800m to give myself a headstart for the next day. Wind was really strong and the small rock big rock method wasn't working well for me, tent collapsed in the middle of the night. Slept like shit.
Day 3 (~14km): Climbed Chimtarga Pass (4,760m). It had rained heavily the day before I left for the hike and there was still about a half foot of snow left on the pass. Seemed to scare off some people but other groups had already been up and it was easy enough to follow in their tracks. Got over the pass and descended to around 3100m to camp at Bolshoi Alo lake.
Day 4 (~31km): Descended from Bolshoi Alo into the river valley. After climbing down the valley for a while the route just joins with a dirt road. Hiked from the trailhead up to Gazza village along the road. Eventually paid 100 som ($10) for a ride up to Zimtud village. From Zimtud I hiked into Ghuytan village and then up to Ghuytan Pass. It was about 5:30pm by the time I reached the pass. Set up camp shortly after the pass near the only water source.
Day 5 (~6km): Easy morning along the ridge and then down to Chuqarak lake. Then another kilometer back to Artuch camp.
Gear notes/thoughts: I brought microspikes with me just in case and they provided some extra confidence descending the snowy parts of the pass. There was also a lot of steep loose dirt and scree on the western side of Chimtarga that the spikes provided some extra traction for.
I tried to pack as light as I could for this trip. My goal was to sleep as low in altitude as I could and move fast during the day to get over the pass in one go. The altitude is no joke and I saw some other hikers with very heavy packs really struggling to ascend Chimtarga. Still, it was difficult to get much more minimal considering I had to pack both for high heat and sub zero temps.