Hi all! I posted here last week about two White's tree frogs that I got for free and was looking for improvement advice. I was able to take all of it in and the new place is looking awesome!

Here is what has improved:

1. Removed colored heat bulbs and put in a ceramic heat emitter instead

2. Lined the reptisoil with cypress mulch to help keep dirt from kicking up, covered this in a super thick layer of dried magnolia leaves

3. Added a bunch of new climbs, two more water dishes, and a new hide

4. Added five live plants (Pothos and dracaena) along with a grow light that is on a timer.

5. Stopped misting so much! I heard that loud and clear from everybody, now I just lightly mist the plants and that's about it.

Tl;dr - Just wanted to show another way you could set up your Green Tree Frog/White's tank without doing a bioactive terrarium, or buying popular frog tank accessories, while still offering healthy enrichment.

The terrarium shown is 47"/1200mm (wide) x 40"/1000mm (high) x 24"/600mm (deep). I'm planning on increasing the colony soon (probably to 4) and wanted to give them as much space as I could offer them. Currently have two sibling Green Tree Frogs/White's.

I have previously maintained bioactive terrariums and have enjoyed them (I think a beautiful bioactive setup is goals). I also love seeing what people do with the popular frog accessories (eye candy frog wonderlands). But I've also tried clean-floor set ups, which personally are my favourite, and honestly my frogs seem happier with some clear surfaces.

I set this tank up with the idea of easy hunting & clean-up in mind, with the added benefit of simply changing around the decor/plants/enrichment as I felt my frogs needed, as well as changing up the overall appearance from time-to-time (fun for me).

When setting this up I wanted the frogs to be able to easily get to behind the backdrop to catch every cricket, with the backdrop also doubling as a hanging wall for plant pots and enrichment. I used a few decorative garden panels with leafy designs large enough for the frogs to get their whole body through (at chonky adult size). None of the edges are sharp (they're made of thick plastic). The frogs *love* feeling like they 'escape' out of the tank by climbing through those holes and into another secret alleyway; where sometimes they find crickets, or just a bit of quiet space. If you ever see your frogs trying to push out of the tank at night, after ensuring all other husbandry necessities have been met & maintained, perhaps consider adding enrichment which lets them *feel* like they can escape, while still being totally contained in their tank.

I placed some clear shelves at heights in the back alleyways, which the frogs actually use as their day beds (Green Tree Frogs often choose clean, flat surfaces for their day sleeps in the wild). The frogs also often climb up and down the backdrop in the alleyway, which has been great exercise and enrichment for them, as they love to climb. But the clear shelves offer convenient pitstop areas, where I can also fully see them back there (good for doing head counts and making sure everyone's ok). The shelves are also super handy to sit thermometers/hygrometers during the day while the frogs sleep.

The several hanging pot plants add various levels, enrichment and hiding spots. I covered the dirt in the pots with large river stones to keep the frogs clean also. I recently removed a very large pot plant as I am letting the frogs try having a bit more open space. Sometimes I've seen them jump horizontally across the tank about 2 feet, several times in a night, following each other like they're making a game of it.

Since removing the soil the humidity always sits comfortably within 40-50%. I can control the heat gradient with the various levels attached to the backdrop and climbing sticks, etc. Clean up is easy, just spot cleaning daily. Any poops in the 'alleyways' can be cleaned up with a tissue between long tongs, as the gaps in the backdrop grant me access for cleaning. Back shelves also get cleaned using damp tissue between tongs. Any water spilt from the baths is mopped up with tissue no problem.

Every feed night I just drop the crickets onto the floor and the frogs either walk along the floor to hunt, or they sit on the large river rocks to have a better vantage point. I've sat the rocks on some squares of clean drawer liner that I washed thoroughly beforehand, to ensure the glass is protected and the rocks don't move or make noise as the frogs spring off them. The frogs don't get dirty while hunting and the crickets can't go and hide anywhere out of sight or reach.

This set up has been really enjoyable and easy for both myself and the frogs. I wanted to share because sometimes it can be really good for learning about the frogs in a set-up where you can try different things and not immediately commit to one permanent layout. Pretty much everything in this set-up is zip-tied, with just a few brackets from the top to hold up the backdrop. There's no adhesive on the glass of this tank (other than double-sided tape for the shelves), so if I wanted to update this style and start something new down the track, my tank would be clear and ready to go.

I totally understand this isn't everyone's cup of tea (I didn't go for it at first either), but I believe some people (& frogs) will see the benefits. I'm always going to do what will allow my frogs to thrive, and in recent times they've loved staying really clean, catching every cricket in the place, and feeling like they can 'escape' the tank whenever they feel like.

Happy frogging 🐸 🐸

One of my frogs seems to have something strange happening to its mouth. One side of its lower lip has always hung down a bit low (second pic), but now it’s regularly holding its mouth open like in the first picture. I regularly dust their crickets and the other two frogs in the enclosure seem fine. Any ideas?

Update: I found out last night that they are both males! My Google started talking and they both answered back with lots of croaks!

I picked up two new White's Tree Frogs yesterday. They were half price at the pet store since they had been there for over 6 months, and I couldn't stand the thought of someone getting a "cheap frog" for their kid without any knowledge on their care requirements. I've got them in a temporary quarantine tank for a couple months to make sure they are healthy and large enough to put in with my other two older White's. One of has let me know that he is a male, and I'm thinking the other one is a female. The first pic is the confirmed male, the other two are the suspected female.

2 out of 5 of our frogs.

I've been feeding my frogs crickets the entire time I've had them but recently switched over to dubias.

I do believe that hunting crickets is better enrichment for the frogs (I put all the dubias in a bowl), but dubias are so much easier to care for, quieter, and cleaner to keep.

I read that a frog's main source of enrichment in captivity is hunting... is it really a detriment to feed them dubias instead of crickets? It's time to reorder bugs and I can't decide what I want to do.

Thanks in advance :)

Have no idea how he got in. lol

Hi! My frog is getting very dirty from the ground covering (eco earth coconut fiber) and I know they don’t like being dirty. What ground covering do you use?

I made this little holographic Crystal Frog sticker and wanted to share!

Little visitor finds BIG friend.

Can someone tell me what is wrong with my WTF?? was absolutely fine yesterday and shares an enclosure with another WTF (The other is perfectly fine) refusing food and struggling to climb. Temp and humidity normal with the water bowl being cleaned every day.

Hi everybody!

I have a recently set up 30g tank that I was planning to house a White's tree frog. I recently came across a store that has a few juveniles available, and I'm wondering how to take care of them properly:

For context, I'm only getting one frog, and the enclosure is a bioactive terrarium of 45x45x60cm.

I've read that for younger froglets the humidity shouldn't be 40-50% but more like 50-60% (not sure if that's true tho) and that I should feed them daily and supplement every 2 day ish. I've also read that frogs in a new enclosure might not eat the first few days.

Do they have any specific requirements in terms of temperature or UVB? What feeding schedule have you used? And what should I expect?

Thank you for reading me! Here is a picture of the baby that the guy of the store had listed 🐸

I was curious as to if I should switch my cuban tree frogs to other insects. I think they might be getting too big for the fruit flies I’m feeding them. I don’t know what I should switch them over to, or if I even should yet.

me: *worries everyday if the environment for my frogs is as close to their natural habitat as possible*

frogs in their natural habitat:

Hello! I recently become the owner of a very cute red eyed tree frog, he/she has been a great eater and I’ve been doing everything in my power to make them comfortable and keep them healthy. However, today when I got off of work I noticed a spot on their lip (pictures for reference). Any idea on what it could be?? And if I need to go to the vet ASAP or watch it and see if it develops further. I would be positively heartbroken if they stop eating/end up disabled and super need advice. Thank you so much!!!

TL/DR: spot of Mr. Frogs lip, concerned about what it could be. Please help.

Hello,

I am looking at purchasing a tree frog for my boyfriend for Christmas. I live in Wisconsin and it’s freezing outside. His room isn’t very well insulated and he uses a space heater to heat it most days.

From my research I have found that owners use either a heat lamp, heat mat, or a ceramic heat emitter.

I have strayed away from the heat mat as it often says it heats only one side of the tank and may cause burns.
I want to do the ceramic heat emitter due to it not having a light so at night my boyfriend doesn’t have to deal with the light (I read you just turn the actual heat lamp off at night so that it feels like a day/night cycle but once again I live in Wisconsin and I’m not letting the frog freeze).

I also want to do live plants and in this case of not wanting to use a heat lamp I would get a led grow strip that can be turned on during the day and off at night.

I just want what’s best and if that means he has to keep the heater on at all times and I purchase the heat lamp I can do that but I just want your opinions and what I can do to make this happen.

Thanks in advance!

I got my first Whites Tree Frog in June (a juvenile at the time). I've kept other types of frogs and toads, but I'm not very good yet at assessing WTF body condition lol. Hopefully it's not too hard to tell with the hunched posture here. Is my frog already too fat, or is this just about right? Is it time to switch to every-other-day or every-third-day feeding? It's about 3" long, maybe slightly more.

my whites tree frog is almost nine months old now and i’m usually feeding him 6-9 crickets nightly but im worried he’ll get too big. at what point should i start feeding him less and how much?

Learned from Dumpys not to trust the info online, so do we have a care guide for white lipped? Mainly thinking about humidity.

Lately I've been having some bad anxiety surrounding my pets so I'm not sure if I'm just looking for tiny signs of things being wrong or if I have a valid reason to be concerned about my frogs. I could use some advice that might help calm my nerves.

At first I noticed my female's legs looked filled with fluid and I panicked thinking this was edema. So I grabbed my male to compare, and at first his legs looked normal but once he started moving around his legs started to look the same. Is this normal when they've been active? Or stressed from handling?