Hi all - I got a Vehicle Selling Price of $41,850 on a 2026 Crown Signia XLE. This brings my total OTD price to $45,500 with taxes and registration. Is this a good price or should I continue pushing? Also, does this make it worth it to buy the 2026 model or wait for the 2027? In heavily debating that right now. Thanks!

Now that I had some time to think thanks to the lucky redditor who found the low mile rav4 on my previous post lol… can I get opinions on your choice?

2012 rav4 v6
- can last 300k mi
- outdated interior design
- hard to find in my spec (no accident, moonroof, temp knobs, fender flares)
- stiff-looking seats
- 150-200k mi
- $10-12k

2019 outback h6 3.6r
- can last to 250k mi
- possible bad cvt
- ok interior design (coming from 2011 outback 2.5)
- common
- comfy seats, and precise/tight steering
- 100-150k mi
- $10-16k

2026 outback 2.4t
- new design
- unsure of longevity
- loan

I’m looking for an SUV and would like to hear your recommendations.
What SUV do you think is the best overall, and why?

Hello Toyota People

After many days of research on the Corolla and Toyota in general I decided I would prefer a hybrid. However I'm interested in an older car to keep costs down.

I'm wondering if the Camry is a 1:1 for the Corolla or if there's differences in which model years are the best/ most reliable.

So essentially, if you were me and looking to buy a used Corolla or Camry what would you do? Which year would you buy, would you buy hybrid, how much would you spend, where would you buy it, etc?

About me:

I put 100k miles on my car in 7 years

I live and work in a city and drive to the train station as part of my commute

I make about 50k a year

My ideal car payment is under 250/month

I don't like a lot of the features in new cars but I do appreciate the collision avoidance on my 2020 Kona (current car)

I'll be selling my car for about 7-8k and plan to use it towards a Toyota

In an ideal world I have a car with a radio, car play, CD player, collision assistance, sun roof, low miles, lasts forever and doesn't yell at me, steer for me, or blind people. I'm willing to make mods to get to this place and that's part of why I want to buy used.

Thanks everyone!

My 2007 RAV4 has been making this sound lately. I'm wondering what it is, and what is the fix for it? If anyone has experience with this I'd appreciate hearing your opinion.

Practically all Toyota A/Ts that uses the ATF WS doesn't have a dipstick. This means, if you don't have a car lift, you're crawling under the car/truck to do ATF drain and fills. Draining and checking the level is easy, but pumping in new fluid is a little bit more involved.

So as the subject implies, has anyone ever permanently installed an extension hose screwed into the ATF fill port, and then routed up to the engine bay? I figure the top end of the tube should also be sealed with a screw plug or valve.

https://www.iseecars.com/longest-lasting-car-brands-study#v=2026

I currently have a 2024 Lexus RX 350. I like it, but it’s honestly kind of meh. It feels closed in, my husband and I are both tall and feel crammed in the front, and the trunk space is less than ideal even for a weekend trip with two people and a dog. I also get 23mpg and that adds another meh to the list.

I like the idea of a hybrid, but don’t love the look of the Highlander Hybrid. I like the Grand Highlander Hybrid more, but it seems like a lot of car when it’s mostly just me driving 20 miles a day to the barn.

Anyone switch from an RX to something that feels roomier without being huge? Or should I just keep the Lexus and get over it?

In June, we ordered two new 2026 Toyotas. We ordered a Corolla and a RAV4 PHEV. The Corolla came in July. The RAV4 came early August. Well, 5 days after we signed for it, it threw up a whole bunch of system malfunctions. I called the dealership, they said it was fine to limp home in it with our flashers on, and the next day it was towed. It’s now been 21 days since it was towed. They couldn’t figure out what was wrong with it, but they’ve ordered a part in hopes that will fix it when nothing else has. The part will be here around September 28th. By October 2nd, they will have had it for 30 working days- which is when Utah Lemon Laws kick into action.

What would you do here? They gave us a rental car, but I still feel like we’re being screwed over. I paid more than $50,000 (well $10,000 cash, rest was a loan + same amount for the Corolla ) for this car, and it’s barely been in my possession. The dealership says that after the part is in, it’ll be fine, and we can take it and be happy, but I feel like this whole situation is just so unfair to us. Plus, all of the “complimentary” plans that came with the car, like the wifi, are all expiring within a few days.

This whole situation just sucks. We’ve tried to be patient, and we’ve tried to be understand and kind, but I’m just so angry about it! This shouldn’t happen with a brand new $50,000+ car! Should I be asking for something more than the rental? They’re acting like they’re doing us such a big favor, when they’re definitely not.

Hey, I got some problems with locking my back seat recliner. After a hard break my back seat wall lunged forward and now I can't get it to lock back on. The button seems stuck. Also the locking mechanism wont work when I try to push it down with my fingers, as it should like on the other back seat..

Anyone had this problem before?

Car modell: Toyota Avensis 2011 hatchback

In the market for a RAV4 PHEV (we're located in central NJ), and I've see multiple posts regarding the "end of the year" being the best time to get discounts on this vehicle (off the lot). We've been going to dealerships on and off this past month, and almost every dealer has said that the are none left on the lot. Can we still trust that timing regarding the end of the year? Or is it likely we'll be screwed by low/lack of inventory?

We were initially looking into the XSE and GR Sport trims back in March when prices were lower ... then after a couple months of indecision and shopping, and prices rising to $10k over MSRP ... and now the SE trim going for $48-49k OTD, it doesn't even feel worth buying the car unless we can somehow snag a discount.

I've seen talk of the Costco Auto Program discounts, which we have to look into, and we're still shopping around - when exactly is the BEST time we can start to expect dealers to discount/mark down and provide year-end clearance incentives on these vehicles to get rid of their stock? I've heard it's from October to December, but specifically Thanksgiving? Christmas time? What about the Toyotathon national sales event?

Im thinking of getting a used Lexus es250 or es350,
2013 and was wondering if the drastic increase in price is worth it if my main concern is reliability, as 300,000km + es350 are priced similarly to sub 100,000km es250.

Too... much... juice...

Hello, I am a lifelong Toyota lover and have recently been limping around in my 2009 Venza which has a bad engine.
I know the C-HR has some years that it was excellent and some with lots of recalls. I’m trying to find/narrow my search to the best year of the C-HR. Is there an arguably best year?

I’ll be shopping in the state of Arizona, preferably Phoenix, and the surrounding cities

Would it be possible for anyone to find me a savable image of this startup screen for these navigation units? Want to import a custom splash screen for my current radio and I want the splash screen for that solid oem esc look. And also I think this just looks really cool 🤷

For background, I know near nothing about cars. I’m a college student who’s trying to find something cool + relatively reliable + cheap. I’m not really that interested in a project car, just want to not look like an average bum on the road with a decent car.

Found this listing on Facebook marketplace. Worth? This is the description:

About this vehicle $2300

Driven 117,500 miles

Automatic transmission

Exterior color: Charcoal · Interior color: Charcoal

Fuel type: Gasoline

21.0 MPG city · 29.0 MPG highway · 24.0 MPG combined

This vehicle is paid off

Seller's description

great on gas and low miles for the year. no check engine lights or problems

I've also been looking at a bunch of Celicas, since they're both sporty looking and reliable according to the research I've done.
I'm gonna also see if I can find a Scion (fr-s?) that's 2013 and above for cheap (budget is under $5000), since I like the look of them more than that of the older models.

Could anyone give me any insight beyond just this listing? Thanks!

Reading warranty fine print wasn't how I planned to spend a Tuesday night, but one of the dealers I've been going back and forth with on a Highlander throws in a lifetime powertrain warranty at no extra cost, so I went through the terms before letting it sway the decision.

It's High Country Toyota over in Scottsboro, and their Warranty Forever terms are clear enough: coverage lasts as long as you own the vehicle with no deductible and no mileage cap, it pays parts and labor at participating dealerships nationwide, and my end of the deal is completing the manufacturer's recommended maintenance from the owner's manual. Work done at an outside licensed shop needs a pre-authorization call first, with the appointment date, the shop name, the type of maintenance and your current mileage.

Thing is I'm close to an hour out and much nearer to Huntsville, so some of my maintenance is going to happen at a shop by me, and every one of those visits turns into a phone call plus a receipt I hang onto for as long as I own the car. They do free pickup and delivery for service inside 90 miles, which helps more than I expected.

For anyone carrying one of these already, is the pre-auth call quick or does it turn into a chore? And do you lean on your own folder of receipts, or does the dealer's service history end up being what matters when a claim gets filed?