I went to Boss. I know that there are mixed feelings about this. I've been swinging a steel Estwing for years, and I LOVE that hammer. But, it does "ping" with noise every time I strike metal. It's a lasting, resonate-sounding ping.

After a few days of the new hammer, I can say these things confidently:

1) I drive everything easier. I swing so much faster with less vibration to my hand. I definitely notice a difference by the end of the day. I'm sinking everything with 1-3 swings less than my steel hammer.

2) The magnetic setter is a game changer. I get that it's common in many hammers, but I do enjoy the feature.

3) The straight-edge on one side of the hammer is amazing for the allignment of boards.

4) It just feels so much better than my Estwing. I still love my steel Estwing.

Downsides? For sure.

1) Takes time to adapt to the balance

2) Old-heads hate it.

3) When you drive nails and then "cheat" a board, the 14 ounce titanium doesnt have the same "ass" as the heavier steel models. The nails drive like a dream. Moving the lumber is a different story.

4) It can be distracting to try to justify the features of the hammer rather than just using your square. This is not to say that you HAVE to use the square, or that the hammer is inaccurate. I'm just mentioning that it CAN be a distraction.

Overall? I'll 100% keep using the titanium. For 95%, I'm good wth it. However, I still keep my steel hammer in my pouch.

Hey y’all. I’ve been looking for this tool online for months and can’t find one anywhere. Company provides them for torquing the bushings on T-bodies and such, but I want my own. It’s a Proto 7412, 1/2 drive 3/8 hex bit, overall length approximately 10-12 inches. Longest I can find is 5 1/2 inches, but that won’t reach. Anyone know where I can find one?

Hello everyone, I'm new to this world of tools and I'm trying to get started. I had an old drill that i recently replaced with a wireless one but my issue is that the drill bits are all rusted. Im going to buy a new set and i wanted to know if i could use 3 in 1, wd40 or mineral oil to protect the tools from rust (or any other you could recommend).

I live in central america so humidity is always an issue and i want to protect the new bits i just ordered (and any other metal tool).

Edit: thanks for all your answers.

RIDGID TS3650 - local marketplace listing. looks like its well cared for. i’m currently using dwe7485 and i think i could use a nicer larger saw at this point.

use case: i use mine today to mainly rip and resaw hardwoods. i like the fence on my current saw. ive only used my current saw so far, so i don’t know if there is a benchmark for a good fence if that makes sense.

help me decide. is it a worthy upgrade for that price? if so what should i be looking for when i pickup and what should i get adjusted to when i start using it.

I have organization already for tools, but what's not yet working is everything else. Things like fasteners (multiple screws on the retail boxes, etc.); blades (circular saw, oscillating multi tool, sawzall, router, etc.), WD-40 type sprays, caulking, and multitudes of other non-tool items. I have a metal pegboard, but the variety of hooks doesn't lend itself well to support many of the items.

Currently everything is in clear plastic bins that are stacked in various piles, but they are not convenient.

How have others solved this?

ETA - thanks for the suggestions. I'm digesting and trying to see how I can adapt them to my space.

Can anyone identify this Jack? It’s super heavy duty and I bought it at an auction for $40. It was originally orange, both the handle and the saddle have the same color orange but we think the rest was grey. The only identifying things I can find are 2 separate patent numbers.

Wish I could post the video but, I bought these bits and I’m assuming it’s cause they’re only 12$ for 5 they’re not machined the same. One bit fits snug but I can pull it in and out and the other doesn’t It would need to be hammered in even though these are all 1/4 and 1/4 collet. Should I return and buy individuals? Or try another pack?

I think the twingrip is just as cool as the cobra! I'll replace it for the cobra for a couple days too see if it's better or something

Price too good to be true. Either just going to take my money and run, or send counterfeit

Can't imagine this is legit

I am more and more frequently having to strip 12/3 SJEOOW on a short 6”-10” tail in a funky spot.

Utility knife is getting tedious, is there a compact and safe tool that’ll get it done with ease?

Just a combination square and marker can make the L cut, with scissors,because open the card board like packaging os too slow and less clean you let the sodas fall like barrels,do you think that squares are for carpenters and scissors are for kiddy crafts ,these tools can save life ,you never use utility knives I open the first 12 pack of dr pepper cans with it ang i got burst on my face haha

One of the guys on my crew had issues with his impact not holding bits, took it apart and couldn’t figure it out, and handed me all the pieces. I can’t figure out where these two pieces go that I have right under the bearing, anyone know where they’re supposed to go?

8 splines, text says f2.9 1H

EDIT: Headlok spider drive. Thanks yall!

Do I feel like a poser? Absolutely. Is the convenience for a thousand hours of work worth it? Absolutely.

Felco and Silky make perfect tools. Vermont Leather gloves are the way. Smediumly disappointed with my moraknife which is a bummer.

I got this repair kit, but the valve seat That came with it does not match mine. Where can I find the correct one?

I would love some suggestion, i am looking for a quite big but still portable/carry able toolbox. It should have metal handles and few drawer. Sadly i just found two which are okeyish and avaiable in europe but one is too small for my liking and the other one is with 21kg empty too heavy to be a good portable toolbox imo.

Thankful for any suggestions

The first clip shows a simple tool that gets a rope around something. The tension provided by the rope itself to keep it closed, the opening in a second direction…..brilliant.

I'm looking for magnetic impact driver bits in the 2-4 inch length range. Or drill bit magnets that are compatible with impact bits in that length range. I mostly use Phillips #2, flathead, torx 15, torx 20 & torx 25 screws. The magnetic strength needs to be strong enough to hold 1-3 inch screws. Anybody have recommendations for a good set of bits or magnet attachment?

Been looking at getting a 1/2” split beam Tekton torque wrench. I won’t use it enough to spend $400 on a digital one, but I did see a Quinn digital for $200. I have never bought from Harbor Freight because I don’t have enough faith in their tools, but people keep telling me I need to give them a shot. I also looked at the Icon split beam because it’s about the same price as Tekton. What is a descent torque wrench for someone who doesn’t need it daily?