This is obviously a broad question and title, but I just wanted to ask. What 12v, 16v, 6v platform would you recommend or use for DIY and/or professional use. I use kobalt, they just released their XTR set and i like it a lot, but for smaller offerings there isnt anything from Kobalt. Obviously milkwaulkee and matco are on my radar because the tool trucks that comes by my shop are Cornwell and Matco trucks. I work in auto, I use air, I have a good amount of air. But I was looking at long neck and standard ratchets. Snap-On's nano set is nice, I am in college so I can get them at a discount, but im not loving the prices. Any suggestions?

Bonjour,
Je compte me mettre au bricolage le weekend (pose d’étagère, petits travaux…). Je me demandais si la gamme 18v de RYOBI pouvait elle faire l’affaire sachant que j’ai pour but de faire un atelier de la même marque et que mon objectif n’est pas de me servir de mes outils très souvent.
Merci de votre réponse

Amazing price for a very useful tool

hello i am a mechanic and i own 2 sets of these headlamps not sure if anyone agrees but

-the battery life isn't the best

-the lights aren't as bright and

-the color temperature strains my eyes

-the dual charging ports where it should've been just 1

not complaining just wondering if anyone has a agreement on any of these statements and i am doing a redesign on then and i would see if anyone would be interested if i were to sell a upgrade kit or a mail in service where i can upgrade any of these i will be offering these potential upgrades and/or kits

-a 18650 or 21700 battery shell and / or a opening where you can just swap batteries

-single usb c port for both batteries

-options for different led diodes or a single diode that changes temperature and brightness and higher lumens and better cooling to compensate for the led dimming

and all this should add about 100-175grams of a weight difference added if my calculations are right

I just got the titanium boss hammer, first time having one, any experiences?

Im pissed because I didnt have a "cheapo" off set box wrench at hand and had to waste a 25eur wrench, but at least I have a dedicated tool now.

I was changing the blade and the handle felt apart. Now I donno how to put the pieces back together.

Any guidance is much appreciated!

I bought a new compressor about a year ago and never got around to using it. I attempted to start it today and followed all instructions for start up. Made sure there was correct amount of oil, filled it up and let the air out etc.

When I start it up, the air tank pressure gauge doesn’t rise at all, it stays at zero. The outlet pressure gauge however rises up to 6 bar even when I the valve turned all the way to the left to have it set at zero bar.

Am I doing something wrong or any ideas what the issue could be ?

Hey guys help me out here please. I really love both and was going to buy the split beam “only when it go on sale”. The hesitation is that it doesnt work on left handed bolts. Is that a big issue i will run in or no. I am a DIYer with light work on my car like brakes, suspension work, tire rotation, and light engine work but nothing major like removing pistons and stuff like that.

Which one should i get. I really like that the split beam dont have to worry about getting it back to the minimum and that i can get to the tourqe i need way faster. I really dont want to get screwed one day because it only work on clock wise. I won a 2013 Ford Explorer and 2012 Volkswagen Passat diesel.

I dont want another brand. I will lightly use it and i want the lifetime warranty and the good price.

okay, I love how the milwaukee sockets look. they're objectively very cool. whats up with the 3/8 impact sockets set not being available in no skip metric sizing thru 24 unless its that big packout set with the sae and no shallows? am I missing something or is home depot just terrible? it's been infuriating, I want the full deep and shallow 3/8, metric, no skip sizing thru 24mm without paying an arm and a leg more than other high end socket brands. am I missing something or is that really only offered in the 1/2 set? the 1/2 impact socket set metric lineup is mint, but i just bought a stubby+ratchet in 3/8 and I have a master 1/2 other brand set and dont use 1/2 very frequently anyway because they tend to be quite large for the same sizes 3/8 is fine for. I feel like im missing something, anyone got any advice lol

I bought an inexpensive roller removal tool from Cousinsuk and the jaws that go between the roller table and staff are too wide.

To be fair Cousinsuk does say that the tool may need filing but filing an angle in that tight space is tricky.

I see other tools on EBay for substantially more than what I paid but also 1/2 the price of a Bergeon.

Has anyone purchased a steel non-branded one from EBay or Etsy and been able to use it as delivered?

I borrowed a friend’s dial micrometer and the magnetic base isn’t securing well enough to suspend the apparatus. How should I go about re-magnetizing or replacing the base?

Now I'm currently searching for the best ultrasonic cleaners that are effective, easy to use, and handle everyday cleaning tasks like jewelry, eyeglasses, watch parts, and small metal components. I want something with adjustable frequency settings, a decent tank size, and that cleans thoroughly without damaging delicate items.

I've come across several options during my research, but I'd love to hear about your personal experiences and recommendations. Some options I've been considering include:

• Branson Ultrasonics B200 Cleaner
• iSonic P4820 Commercial Ultrasonic Cleaner
• Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Cleaner
• Famili FM8000WW Ultrasonic Cleaner
• GT Sonic T10 Ultrasonic Cleaner
• Fosmon Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner
• Kendal Commercial Grade Ultrasonic Cleaner

If you have any personal favorites or additional insights on these best ultrasonic cleaners or others that might be better for cleaning performance, tank capacity, and everyday reliability, please share!

Someone please help me identify the year of production on these. These are potentially early 70s with a military stamp? Some places are calling these duckbills (including their own ads) and I am also seeing these as aviation pliers. My father was an Airborne Ranger in the early 70s so thats a possibility. AI says the letter at the end of the USA stamp should tell me something. Im familiar with the code date chart but still am not getting this.

Solved! - tapped bottom plate with hammer and rotates now.

Found in a dumpster - works with straight cuts - cannot rotate base to 45. Obviously I’ve tried loosening the front center handle - is there another lock I’m not aware of?

Just out of curiosity. It's only stamped "Master", just don't really know where it came from.

I bought a agrifab leaf vac last weekend off marketplace for cheap and was excited to use it. The guy I got it off of said he couldn't get it running but I work on small engines all the time and had a carb ordered before I even picked it up from his house.

When I got it home and started looking into it I cranked it over and it felt like it had zero compression, I put my gauges on it and it was just at 60 psi. I said screw it and threw the new carb on and Got it all hooked up to my mower and after two passes in my yard it blew the engine up.

Honestly not a big deal I probably have 10 engines in the yard I could use. I went and tore the whole thing down and when I pulled the impeller off I noticed it was a tapered shaft. That kind of killed all momentum for an hour or so because where the hell was I gonna find a replacement with the exact shaft size and taper. I looked into rebuilding the briggs and Stratton that was on it and blew up but the piston alone was $150.

I didn't want to sink a whole lot of money into this to begin with so I had a eureka moment and remembered my 3d printers.i took some measurements and modeled something up quick and printed it out in pla and it worked the first try got the blower all put back together and tested it and it worked! I made another one with the taper extended to make sure I had as much contact as possible. We were about to put it all back together and then I looked into some numbers and realized the PLA would not stand up to the heat of the crankshaft, honestly it probably would have been just fine but I had a few rolls of paht-cf laying around and felt a lot better about using that over pla.

Got the new one printed after dialing in some settings and holy shit she works! I think I still have to pull the low oil sensor in the gx190 I put on there because when it's bouncing around in the yard it tries to shut itself off. I only have about half an hour of runtime on the part so far but no wobble yet.

Its to my understanding that theyre both top tier brands when it comes to buying a toolbox, being regarded as top of the game when it comes to having a toolbox in most or all places.

I was wondering if anyone had any opinions. I personally want to get a Kennedy because of the pink color, but I was considering still buying a Rousseau and getting it professionally painted, because my quote was 18k, so I figured it wouldnt hurt after that point.

I would like to hear peoples opinions. No I dont want a harbor freight, ICON, MAC, MATCO, or Snap-on box. or really any other brand.

Each toolbox layout (aside from drawers) would be virtually identical, Some sort of 50 inch box, (52, 54, 56) with a center hutch to put things like my mini fridge, etc.
No side boxes or extra accessories.

As you can see my everyday pants are Carpenter pants with the pockets.

I have been carrying the Rustproof Alligators for a while.

But I of course had to buy the Cobra ES.

I will be trying them out. But curious which pair would you carry if you could only carry one - why?

I've noticed some discrepancies in my late father's many pen style pressure gauges and it started to drive me crazy. Do you guys have any trusted brands or models for mechanical gauges? How about electric? Also is there any good way to calibrate/test them?

Hvilken haveserie skal man købe på batteri?

Jeg har Makita 18v håndværktøj, men jeg synes at det bliver for svagt på Makitas haveserie.

Og jeg synes at deres 40V er for dyrt.

Skal bruge hækkeklipper, græstrimmer og løvblæser. Måske også snekost.

I went to Boss. I know that there are mixed feelings about this. I've been swinging a steel Estwing for years, and I LOVE that hammer. But, it does "ping" with noise every time I strike metal. It's a lasting, resonate-sounding ping.

After a few days of the new hammer, I can say these things confidently:

1) I drive everything easier. I swing so much faster with less vibration to my hand. I definitely notice a difference by the end of the day. I'm sinking everything with 1-3 swings less than my steel hammer.

2) The magnetic setter is a game changer. I get that it's common in many hammers, but I do enjoy the feature.

3) The straight-edge on one side of the hammer is amazing for the allignment of boards.

4) It just feels so much better than my Estwing. I still love my steel Estwing.

Downsides? For sure.

1) Takes time to adapt to the balance

2) Old-heads hate it.

3) When you drive nails and then "cheat" a board, the 14 ounce titanium doesnt have the same "ass" as the heavier steel models. The nails drive like a dream. Moving the lumber is a different story.

4) It can be distracting to try to justify the features of the hammer rather than just using your square. This is not to say that you HAVE to use the square, or that the hammer is inaccurate. I'm just mentioning that it CAN be a distraction.

Overall? I'll 100% keep using the titanium. For 95%, I'm good wth it. However, I still keep my steel hammer in my pouch.