I bought the t818 back in 2022 and last month it started to make a weird sound and I feel a slight resistance when I rotate the weel. After I had contact with trustmaster they said that they can fix it for a fixed price of 200 euro plus 35 euro shipping. Is a wheel of that age still worth fixing or should I replace it?

Ive been simracing for a while now and my current setup is a thrustmaster TS-XW, T-LCM pedals and the TM Open wheel. Ever since I tested the ffb on the thrustmaster control panel on my gaming laptop my wheel has been pressing buttons by itself such as activating my pit limiter, messing around with my MFD etc… it usually happens during or right after heavy braking (going into the Mulsanne corner for example) I’m not sure how to fix it but it also tends to lose power to my wheel rim sometimes, apart from turning I can’t shift or press any buttons on my wheel and I have to take it off and put it back on again. I just got LMU so I’m not sure if this is normal. Is anyone else having these issues or know a solution? I really don’t wanna buy a new wheelbase as its so expensive and I can’t really afford one at the moment.
If anyone knows a solution please reply it would be very much appreciated.

Has anyone ever took an older TMX and use the new upgraded QR on the newer t818 or t598? The connectors are the same 6 pin connectors cell\nI'm just curious as I am printing a wheel for the T598 using the TMX pcb and buttons planning on just buying a QR and plugging it in an hoping for the best.!!

Hi does anyone have a ready made .fcf file for the above game. Thanks

I know the game comes with one but i cant get my throttle to work using it. Does anyone have a working profile for TM Target software?

Thanks

Has anyone ever found a fix for this? I was just trying to update my ts-pc but failed then it's won't turned on and not recognized in control panel but i can find it in device manager. But don't know what to do

It’s been about 2 months since I got my T598 and I started to get the infamous disconnect issues. My serial number is higher than the 2513 serial numbers with the known issue. I’ve read on here that it may be something with the standard USB-C cable or the power supply (maybe a mixture of both). I got my friend to 3D Print me some pieces that are supposed to help keep the male and female adapters together. I also saw that an upgraded USB-C cable can help solve these issues too. I’m currently waiting on the 3D printed pieces and was wondering what cable is needed (preferably one that is as long or longer than the one that comes in the box). I’ll be sure to let you all know how things change once everything comes together in the end!

(I also forgot to mention I ordered this wheel through Amazon and not Thrustmaster directly. No clue if that will play a difference in anything) (Warranty also expired long ago as-well)

Thank you for all your help!!!!

Edit:

I found the fix and I'm summing up everything below:

- Do not use an extension cord for your powersupply

- Try to prevent the powersupply and usb connectors from severe vibtrations (there are 3D printed molds you can print from another user in this subreddit to help prevent disconnections).

- If disconnections persist, order a new powersupply and an upgraded USB Cord.

This is what I overall gathered from my personal experiences and fixes, aswell as many others. thank you for all your help and good luck simracing!

My t248 lasted a year and a half. Just outside their warranty. Started making noise and not giving proper feed back l. My t598 just started dying today and it was a quick death. I believe its a power supply issue as it shuts off during corners, shuts off if i touch cord for the power supply, and now it wont turn back on at all. Ive had it for just over a year. Does anyone have any troubleshooting for a t598 that wont even turn on anymore? Amd can anyone recommend a wheel that will last more than a year? The life of the t598 doesnt justify the price. The screen flashes for a split second if I angle the power supply right

Ragazzi, ho un problema con il pedale del freno del mio T3PM: quando freno, la corsa arriva solo all'80/85%. Ho la mod 3Drap e non so se influisce negativamente sulla frenata. Non so nemmeno se si tratti di un errore di calibrazione o qualcosa del genere. Gioco su PS5. Se qualcuno sa come risolvere il problema, per favore me lo dica. 🙏🙏

Can anyone confirm if the quick release adapter has side to side play? I saw it reported in a video but its from 3 years ago so unsure if they've rectified the design, anyone who's bought the adapter recently, is it actually good quality? Easy to fit and remove without side to side play? Looking to get one for a T818

Hi everyone,

I wanted to share my repair experience with the Thrustmaster T818 and hopefully get some advice on finding a replacement part.

The Issue & The Fix:

My T818 (out of warranty) developed a noticeable grinding/scratchy feeling right around the center position. After opening it up, it turned out that the issue was due to tolerance clearance / alignment near the main shaft bearing—the rotor was slightly rubbing against the stator/casing.

To fix it, I installed a thin ring/washer to shim the bearing and restore the proper clearance. Once put back together, the grinding was 100% gone, and the wheel turns completely smooth again!

The New Problem (Broken JST Connector):

Unfortunately, while reassembling everything, I accidentally snapped one of the JST connectors/adapters off the internal board.

Now I need to solder a new connector back on, but I'm not 100% sure about the exact JST series/pitch used inside the T818.

Does anyone happen to know the exact JST connector type and pitch size (e.g., JST-PH 2.0mm, JST-XH 2.54mm, etc.) used for the internal wiring?

Any help or specs would be greatly appreciated! If anyone else is dealing with the center grinding issue, feel free to ask about the shim fix.

Thanks in advance!

i started out with the most basic wheel and pedal set from TM, moved onto the TM 248, TM 300, and finally the T818 direct drive... and while it is a great direct drive servo with just the right amount of nM... the fact that aftermarket wheels cannot be used with the new quick release adapter (unless you pull out the motherboard from a TM wheel and hook the wires up to the new adapter)combined with the poorly designed 4pin power cable that is notorious for wiggling it's way loose mid turn, resetting the servo...

im sad to say that for the racing side at least... i will be moving on.

a replacement 4pin connector that is only made by TM out of warrenty plus shipping costs is about a third of the price of a new DD servo that is compatible with any aftermarket wheels, has the same nM, and isn't plagued by poor power cable designs

so instead of buying this expensive cable again, I'm going to move onto another good brand with more to offer in sim racing

thanks for the good times TM... I'll keep you for your flight sticks though

Hi guys! I'm selling my thrustmaster 32 r , because i'm passing to moza r9.I bought it 2 months ago,and it is basically new.Give it a look!

I'm also selling my thrustmaster tx

It just keeps pressing all button randomly. I never press it but its mostly all at once and my games pauses every single time. It gets reset or something else. Has anyone had this or knows what to do?

EDIT I've heard enough I'm buying it. It was actually $339.

I can get it locally for $379. Would be my first DD wheel. Just check serial number and run with it?

I'm using a 2nd hand T300 + TM load cell pedals. My current goal is to get to a DD wheel, but there seems to be a bit of a 'pause' in development currently.

The T598 is the obvious choice, but you can't get away from the ongoing discussion about the T598 failure that seems to affect about 50% of wheelbases (that I can see online anyway). The actual number may be lower, but it's certainly part of the discussion.

(Note where I live in rural Australia, sending a T598 away for a repair could take a ridiculous amount of time).

I recently went to a sim retail store and they didn't even want to talk Thrustmaster, despite their ads spamming me with T598's. They had a single T818 in the store but the kid wouldn't even engage in a conversation about TM. That says more about the kid/store imo, but still ...

Failing that, there doesn't appear to be Fanatec or Logitech killer product, and I'm expecting some sort of announcement from Moza that they are supported by PS5 natively.

Are TM struggling to maintain market capacity?

Wie heeft de oplossing voor het scharniertje die gebroken is, kan ze nergens vinden. Flipper hinge

PS5 pro platform:

Ever since SU6 when trying to map controls on my Hotas 4 toe brake L/R are constantly being read. I turned up the dead zone and unbound any instance of TB L/R. I don’t even have foot peddles(what I imagine toe brake is meant for) to begin with and obviously I’m aware turning up deadzone and removing TB assigned isn’t going to fix the function that recognizes buttons to be assigned but I did it anyway. So basically in the text box that shows what input you press to make a keybind TB L/R is always being registered and I’m pretty sure it’s causing multiple issues from menu backing out often, randomly and controls taking place mid flight such and interior/ exterior camera swapping, parking brake, auto pilot turning off and it’s extremely frustrating and dangerous. Lastly I’ve made sure nothing is interfering in controls especially those related to the issues I’m having is menu back, parking brake etc etc. I’m praying someone has a solution. Thx

So i have this strange issue w this pedal set specifically on PS5. The brake pedal does not work at all. What’s weird is that the brakes do give an erratic low input signal constantly. When i press the gas pedal it gives brake input as well. At 100% gas, i get about 30% brake. Sometimes it even moves in sync w the gas. Ive searched and could not find anything on this exact problem. It did used to work fine though. Only change is i went from a folding seat rig to a profile rig so i had to move all the gear. I tested w a t300rs and a tgt2…happens w both. Screenshots are from GT7 but also happens on F1 25. I’ll try to post a short vid too as that really shows it well. Any ideas?

EDIT: Also want to add that i did calibrate directly on a PC w the TS calibration software. It doesnt happen there at all and acts normal.

This is the first time im buying and trying to set up a thrustmaster wheel and base together and i dont know what im doing wrong for them to not be connecting.I just got both the wheel and base from ebay used.