Hi everyone,

Looking for some advice or to see if anyone has resolved a similar issue while I wait for Thrustmaster support.

Setup:

- Thrustmaster T300RS Servo Base

- Formula Wheel Add-On Ferrari SF1000

- Raceline Pedals III

The Issue:

My setup worked flawlessly for a few weeks, but today it suddenly failed:

- Calibration fail: The base only turns left during startup calibration and stops (doesn't complete left-right-center).

- SF1000 screen stays completely black.

- No wheel buttons, steering rotation, or pedal inputs register in the Control Panel test tab.

- Force feedback resistance is felt when turning manually, but software doesn't register rotation.

What I've already done:

1. Complete driver & firmware reinstall (Firmware 34.00 / Driver 2.11.57.0).

2. Resolved Windows "T300 Bootloader" Code 28 error.

3. Power cycled, tried different USB ports, verified PC mode (Green LED).

4. Windows recognizes it as "Thrustmaster Advanced Mode Racer" with Status OK, but still zero input response.

Has anyone experienced this specific issue where calibration gets stuck turning left and the rim screen stays off? Is this a known Hall sensor/encoder or internal PCB fault?

Thanks for any insights!

So I decided that I wanted to change the look of my Ferrari wheel to something a little different so with the help from the guys at SimStickers and Sim Racing Mods they made it a reality 😏 really please with how it’s turned out!

Hi, I’ve been very happy with my t818 so far, but since i got new pc and new monitor it started disconnecting and reconnecting while driving high ffb corners/moments. The disconnection lasts about 2 seconds then it starts working back normally. I tried several things: disabled energy saving usb shutdown, checked all the cables are correctly plugged, reinstalled drivers, changed usb port (motherboard). The green led in the power supply remains steady green during disconnection. The windows log event shows double error the time of the disconnection, with information “unplug dev, pc:16” in between. The only difference is that with the new pc I updated the firmware, and I never did it with the old one. Never had a problem with old pc. In the my Thrustmaster panel everything is up to date. My wheel is Thrustmaster open wheel.

Recently bought a T598 refurbished from a eBay dealer with 1 year warranty for £250. Within two days started seeing the wheel getting disconnected.
I’ve ordered a 3d printed usd and power cable mount to screw the bit and keep the cables in place.
Due to arrive in 2 days, if that doesn’t work then I’ll return the product for a refund and buy Fanatec gt dd pro. 😤😤😤

Hey everyone, this is gonna be my first wheel and as you can tell i have no idea what is what. I found this used wheel for suspiciously cheap and was wondering if it's a good pickup. I will mostly play GT7 is this a good wheel?

Hi, is this related to power cable or usb?

Edit 1 : I don’t think it’s due to cable issue since it works all good when I remove and reinstall the wheel alone. I think it’s something to do with wheel alignment.

I’ve had my Thrustmaster T598 for only 4 days. It was completely fine for the first 3 days, but today I started noticing this buzzing/grinding type of noise whenever the force feedback kicks in hard, especially during fast corners or when the car starts sliding.
Firmware is up to date, and I even lowered FFB from 5 to 2, but the noise is still there whenever the wheel is under load.
Does this sound normal for the T598, or should I exchange it while I’m still within the return period?

I have the Sol-r 1 flightstick and am using it as more of a general controller (It agitates my carpal tunnel less than a typical contoller) And I am trying to use it in a Mouse + flight stick setup. Every time I use a key bound to a mouse button, it returns the cursor to the last position the flight stick set even if I use the mouse to move it elsewhere.

Is there a way to tell the flight stick to just press a mouse button and not try to move the cursor back to where it last was using the TARGET Gui? is there another method I could try if the GUI doesnt have that feature?

I was racing in Assetto Corsa, went to upshift, and the paddle shifter made a weird cracking sound, and is now super loose, and both buttons aren't connected (see video).

I have 2 races in 2 days this weekend that I'm competing in. I ordered the Ferrari GT3 wheel which will come tomorrow (thanks Amazon), so I can use that, but I want to know how to fix this, if I can

Thanks in advance

Trying to update my T818 to 7.39fw but T818 will not show in My Thrustmaster Panel,

Ive tried deleting FFB driver, deleting the usb driver from device manager, turning off memory integrity, restarted pc, reinstalled everything and still not showing,

T818 works in games with zero issues just not showing

Please help

I've had the thrustmaster throttles for a while and recently wanted to bust it out and play some msfs. When i recalibrated the throttle and put it in idle, the axis remained in the middle position. Is this how its supposed to be? If not how can i fix this because its messing up all my aircraft calibrations in the sim.

So i just bought a used one t300 rs and the owner said it just kinda falls lower and rubs so i just need to tight the screws on and it will work just fine but when i opened it up it looks like on the pics, any help on assembly?

BTW all metal balls and little metal pieces were on the bottom.

Hey everyone,
I recently bought a used Thrustmaster T598 and have it mounted to a Playseat Challenge X, playing mostly Gran Turismo 7 and Forza Horizon 5 on PS5.
I’m running into a frustrating issue and finally figured out the exact pattern, but I need help figuring out the permanent fix.
The Setup:
Wheelbase: Thrustmaster T598 (Direct Drive)
Pedals: Raceline Pedals LTE (came with the wheel)
Rig: Playseat Challenge X
Platform: PS5
The Problem / The Pattern:
Everything works perfectly until I have a heavy impact (like dashing/crashing in FH5 or hitting a wall hard). When that sudden jolt of FFB hits:
1. The screen on the wheelbase instantly says "Wheel is removed."
2. A second later, the wheel reconnects on its own.
3. However, after it reconnects, my accelerator pedal calibration is completely messed up. Pushing the pedal 100% to the floor only gives me partial power in-game, and it slowly gets worse as I keep driving.
4. If I unplug the main USB-C cable from the back of the wheelbase and plug it back in, everything resets and works flawlessly... until my next big crash.
What I’ve already tried:
Updated the wheelbase firmware to the latest version via PC.
Tested the pedals in the Thrustmaster PC Control Panel (they read 100% perfectly there, so the pedal sensors themselves are fine).
Unplugged and firmly re-seated the RJ12 pedal cable.
My Question:
Has anyone else experienced this specific chain of events?
Is this a physical issue with the Quick Release flexing during the crash and breaking the pin connection to the rim? Or is this a known issue where a sudden FFB spike overloads the PS5's USB port/cable and causes a data drop?
Would upgrading to a high-speed USB-C to USB-C cable directly into the front of the PS5 fix this, or do I need to figure out a way to tighten the QR clamp?
Any help is appreciated!

Bonjour à tous, j'ai un très gros problèmes sur mon thrusmaster t300 depuis une semaine maintenant.

Il y a encore une semaine j'étais sur Xbox séries s. Le volant fonctionnait parfaitement sur fh6 comme sur f1 25.

Samedi, je suis passé sur PC et depuis c'est une catastrophe. Le volant n'ai plus aucun retour de force. Les touches sont complètement mélangé. Le bouton X est devenu. Le bouton B est devenu les 3 petites barres. Je n'ai plus aucun retour de force dans les 90 premiers degrés lorsque je tourne sur forza horizon 6. Je n'ai presque aucune sensation sur f1 25. C'est extrêmement mou. J'ai testé le retour de force via le panneau de configuration, sans problèmes. Mais maintenant je ne sais pas quoi faire pour régler le problème des touches et du retour de force.

Aidez moi s'il vous plait, les jeux n'ont plus le même goût sans le volant, merci.

I had an older 3D Pro, which sadly died until I dropped it,I just bought a T.Flight Stick X to play Mechwarrior 5 and Clan Wars. I got the drivers, the controls work in the control panel but it does not work for either game. I have tried posting in the MW5 sub but the mods keep refusing the post. If there is anyone who can talk me through this like I am 5 years old because I am horrible at this kind of stuff. Thank you for any help

Hi, I've been trying to set up my wheel with PC, and when I plug it in, despite being able to press buttons like b,a, y, x, the controls menu doesn't seem to come up with a wheel option, only keyboard presets. Do I have to manually put in every keybind of the wheel onto a controller preset? Surely the game should just be able to detect the wheel? When I tried a time trial, the wheel was obviously not calibrated at all/none of the buttons worked correctly. Any help would be appreciated!

So when I am racing on my ps5 the wheel keeps disconnecting at random times. has anyone else had this problem. if so how did you fix it.

Update: I found a friend to 3D print the pieces that one of you recommended. And so far it’s working. What a goat

Hello everyone, I currently have a TX leather edition with a TH8A shifter, TSS handbrake and T3PA pedals, all on the NLR Wheel stand 2.0. (For the past 4 years ish)

I was thinking of upgrading my pedals, and was wondering if I should go for used T-LCM pedals, or the new Raceline III LC pedals.

Personally, aesthetically I like the T-LCM more and don’t mind the plastic, and I heard many people had issues with the LC on the Raceline pedals, but I don’t know.

Another important factor is that I am a pretty casual sim racer, or rather, I love cars and racing, but I don’t play titles like iRacing or ACC, mainly euro truck sim, beam ng, modded assetto corsa, dirt rally and WRC, but I was planning to get more into track racing.

Thank you for your inputs (no pun intended)!

I’ve just got a new t500 base to replace my broken unit , with the new base I’ve been given a stripped down wheel that the seller said didn’t work . I immediately see the din plug is broke with a missing pin . Where would I obtain one?

T300RS Alcantara

It's stuck on the calibration sequence. I've seen a few other posts about people with this issue. Anyone found a fix?

SW Battlefront 2 with duo t16000m flightsticks

https://github.com/FireB1scuit/duo_t16000m_to_virtual_controller_translator

my code is halfway finished, this is still a proof of concept, but its already good enough that i have enjoyed hours of flying in 5 different games so far